2005 Mustang AC only blows through floor vents
11/25/18 | 06:04 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: November 25, 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
2005 Mustang AC only blows through floor vents
I have a 2005 Ford Mustang and the AC had been acting up, for awhile only the defrost vents worked until they completely stopped working and now only the floor vents work . I changed out the top left actuator out and the clicking noise I had stopped but my main vent and defrost vent still do not work . The cold/hot and all air flow levels still work but I only feel it from the floor vent, plus it sounds like there’s air blowing behind the dashboard . Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong or the solution for this ?
11/25/18 | 09:55 PM
#2
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,582
Likes: 670
From: Insane
On the face of it, it sounds like the panel/floor actuator is stuck in 'floor' mode. But given the fact you can have defrost/floor as a mode, I'm not sure why the defroster isn't working regardless of the panel/floor situation. There's four actuators:
Panel/floor
Defroster on/off
Temperature blend
Recirculation air
I might go so far as to take the panel/floor and/or defroster actuators off and manually move the doors to see what happens.. Of course, it's some star pattern socket that you'll have to get in to do that, and you need to be careful to not damage that, but still, I'd be checking it to see if the doors work like they should. And if you can do that, you should be able to move the airflow around as you want. If so, then the actuators are most likely faulty, with a possibility of the connectors, overall wiring, and/or the climate control or Smart Junction Box being an issue. Which means tracing and testing... tedious stuff. If it's not just the actuator, that is...
You might want to consult a shop manual. You can try here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate%20Control%20System.pdf
But the problem with the site is the pages are ordered semi-numerically... meaning you go from page 1 to page 2 to page 11 through 20, 3, 21-30, 4, 31-40, 5, 41-48, 6-10.
It's like this in all the sections. Still, it's there, and maybe it'll help you. Thing being that you'll have to diagnose it yourself and find the cause... or have someone do it.
If it's not straight up just the panel/floor actuator, that is. I bet that's it. Good dang luck, and welcome to the forums!
Panel/floor
Defroster on/off
Temperature blend
Recirculation air
I might go so far as to take the panel/floor and/or defroster actuators off and manually move the doors to see what happens.. Of course, it's some star pattern socket that you'll have to get in to do that, and you need to be careful to not damage that, but still, I'd be checking it to see if the doors work like they should. And if you can do that, you should be able to move the airflow around as you want. If so, then the actuators are most likely faulty, with a possibility of the connectors, overall wiring, and/or the climate control or Smart Junction Box being an issue. Which means tracing and testing... tedious stuff. If it's not just the actuator, that is...
You might want to consult a shop manual. You can try here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate%20Control%20System.pdf
But the problem with the site is the pages are ordered semi-numerically... meaning you go from page 1 to page 2 to page 11 through 20, 3, 21-30, 4, 31-40, 5, 41-48, 6-10.
It's like this in all the sections. Still, it's there, and maybe it'll help you. Thing being that you'll have to diagnose it yourself and find the cause... or have someone do it.
If it's not straight up just the panel/floor actuator, that is. I bet that's it. Good dang luck, and welcome to the forums!
Last edited by houtex; 11/25/18 at 10:01 PM.
11/25/18 | 11:22 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: November 25, 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
On the face of it, it sounds like the panel/floor actuator is stuck in 'floor' mode. But given the fact you can have defrost/floor as a mode, I'm not sure why the defroster isn't working regardless of the panel/floor situation. There's four actuators:
Panel/floor
Defroster on/off
Temperature blend
Recirculation air
I might go so far as to take the panel/floor and/or defroster actuators off and manually move the doors to see what happens.. Of course, it's some star pattern socket that you'll have to get in to do that, and you need to be careful to not damage that, but still, I'd be checking it to see if the doors work like they should. And if you can do that, you should be able to move the airflow around as you want. If so, then the actuators are most likely faulty, with a possibility of the connectors, overall wiring, and/or the climate control or Smart Junction Box being an issue. Which means tracing and testing... tedious stuff. If it's not just the actuator, that is...
You might want to consult a shop manual. You can try here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate...l%20System.pdf
But the problem with the site is the pages are ordered semi-numerically... meaning you go from page 1 to page 2 to page 11 through 20, 3, 21-30, 4, 31-40, 5, 41-48, 6-10.
It's like this in all the sections. Still, it's there, and maybe it'll help you. Thing being that you'll have to diagnose it yourself and find the cause... or have someone do it.
If it's not straight up just the panel/floor actuator, that is. I bet that's it. Good dang luck, and welcome to the forums!
Panel/floor
Defroster on/off
Temperature blend
Recirculation air
I might go so far as to take the panel/floor and/or defroster actuators off and manually move the doors to see what happens.. Of course, it's some star pattern socket that you'll have to get in to do that, and you need to be careful to not damage that, but still, I'd be checking it to see if the doors work like they should. And if you can do that, you should be able to move the airflow around as you want. If so, then the actuators are most likely faulty, with a possibility of the connectors, overall wiring, and/or the climate control or Smart Junction Box being an issue. Which means tracing and testing... tedious stuff. If it's not just the actuator, that is...
You might want to consult a shop manual. You can try here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate...l%20System.pdf
But the problem with the site is the pages are ordered semi-numerically... meaning you go from page 1 to page 2 to page 11 through 20, 3, 21-30, 4, 31-40, 5, 41-48, 6-10.
It's like this in all the sections. Still, it's there, and maybe it'll help you. Thing being that you'll have to diagnose it yourself and find the cause... or have someone do it.
If it's not straight up just the panel/floor actuator, that is. I bet that's it. Good dang luck, and welcome to the forums!
11/25/18 | 11:59 PM
#4
Mach 1 Member
Joined: August 28, 2005
Posts: 626
Likes: 16
From: Winnipeg Mb. Ca
I'd be inclined to think it's the defrost door actuator that's defective. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=336&f=Mode%20...ost%20Door.pdf
Also you might want to try the EMTC cold boot process first. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate...System.pdf&p=2
If those don't work you'll probably have to have the HVAC scanned for codes that will help locate the problem. It's possible the control module is defective.
Also you might want to try the EMTC cold boot process first. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=332&f=Climate...System.pdf&p=2
If those don't work you'll probably have to have the HVAC scanned for codes that will help locate the problem. It's possible the control module is defective.
11/26/18 | 04:33 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: November 25, 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
2005 Mustang A/C HELP NEEDED
I have a 2005 Mustang & the main vents & defrost vents will not blow any air out. Only the floor vents work, I’ve changed the actuators under the glove compartment, the clicking noise I once had did stop but still no air flow from the two vents. However, if I do have my A/C on once I turn off my car a hissing noise from under the hood starts and will stop after about 30 seconds. What could I be missing or if their is a hose that’s cracked how could I possible check or know when their so hard to locate ?
11/26/18 | 09:58 PM
#6
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,582
Likes: 670
From: Insane
Previously, on The Mustang Source...
You shouldn't start a new topic on the same subject, and worse, in a different forum, it'll confuse and not get the results you need. You should go back and continue the thread there, regardless of the added symptom. Just tryin' to help ya out there...
But since I'm here, I'll go ahead and state that at this point, you need to take it to a reputable shop if not a dealer straight up. This sounds like there's more going on than any simple fix or from afar diagnosis is going to tackle. If there's a hissing noise, that starts and stops, there's probably no leak. However, it could be low on coolant, and in that case you still need a shop. You can put dye in the system, use a blacklight and the glasses/goggles to protect your eyes and see if you can see any UV and hope to find it... but even if you do, you still need to evacuate the system, fix the problem, then put new R134 in there, and a shop is a better place than the home for that. You also would want gauges and stuff.
Shop. Take it. You'll just get it fixed faster and better than the route you're currently taking. Hope that helps.
You shouldn't start a new topic on the same subject, and worse, in a different forum, it'll confuse and not get the results you need. You should go back and continue the thread there, regardless of the added symptom. Just tryin' to help ya out there...
But since I'm here, I'll go ahead and state that at this point, you need to take it to a reputable shop if not a dealer straight up. This sounds like there's more going on than any simple fix or from afar diagnosis is going to tackle. If there's a hissing noise, that starts and stops, there's probably no leak. However, it could be low on coolant, and in that case you still need a shop. You can put dye in the system, use a blacklight and the glasses/goggles to protect your eyes and see if you can see any UV and hope to find it... but even if you do, you still need to evacuate the system, fix the problem, then put new R134 in there, and a shop is a better place than the home for that. You also would want gauges and stuff.
Shop. Take it. You'll just get it fixed faster and better than the route you're currently taking. Hope that helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post