long time fan, first time caller
So, exactly one year ago, I replaced the struts, outer tie rods, control arms, and sway bar links on my 2008 Mustang V6. The only things I didn't replace were the inner tie rods because they looked okay. I still have the clunking noise in the front. At first I thought I didn't torque down the sway bar links to the struts. While I was under the car changing the oil today, I saw that the rubber of the outer tie rods were damaged. Could this be causing the the clunking noise? I wouldn't think it would be the strut mounts because I replaced the the entire assembly. I really don't know what else it could be. Also, can someone recommend a good company for the new outer tie rods I will have to buy? Thanks.
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Joined: November 27, 2004
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From: Visalia Ca.
So, exactly one year ago, I replaced the struts, outer tie rods, control arms, and sway bar links on my 2008 Mustang V6. The only things I didn't replace were the inner tie rods because they looked okay. I still have the clunking noise in the front. At first I thought I didn't torque down the sway bar links to the struts. While I was under the car changing the oil today, I saw that the rubber of the outer tie rods were damaged. Could this be causing the the clunking noise? I wouldn't think it would be the strut mounts because I replaced the the entire assembly. I really don't know what else it could be. Also, can someone recommend a good company for the new outer tie rods I will have to buy? Thanks.
This is an Original Ford Part and Has a 2Yr Unlimited Mile Warranty. Outer Tie Rod Ends are DR3Z-3A130-A
In Fact Ford Racing Sold The Mounts and Stated Fits 2005-2008 Mustang and 28% Stiffer Than Mustang Gt Mounts M18183A {Back in 2007} Ford Racing Catalog.
Here is Latest Part Number Ford Racing Design Same as OEM I listed.
READ DESCRIPTION Good Info!
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-per...014/p/M18183C/
I show these Links For Info. Where You Buy Can Be Local or Other.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...html?pnc=18183
FORD PARTS GIANT
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rut+mount,7600
Rock Auto Has Motorcraft along with Generic. I only Know the Gt-500 Ones Held Up Better.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...html?pnc=3A130
Tie Rod Ends FORD PARTS GIANT
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...num=dr3z3a130a
Tie Rod Ends. MOOG is a Good Brand if you Don't Want Ford M/C.
Be Advised FORD & MOTORCRAFT are Same Parts Just Using Different Part Numbers.
{As Per Info Supplied this is my Best Answer.}
Don't Discount any of your Previously Replaced Parts as well. You Stated that you have already Replaced the Outer tie Rods and Already the Boots are Bad. I've seen Plenty of Bad out of the Box Parts and also early Failure Parts. In the Last Ten Years it got to be a lot more regular. In Fact I received New Strut Mounts from Ford Broken in the Box. They are Fragile Unmounted and Easily Damaged when Installing. Food For Thought.
KC
If you Scroll Down You Will See Similar Posts.
Last edited by 05stangkc; Oct 3, 2022 at 07:50 PM.
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Joined: May 11, 2006
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So, exactly one year ago, I replaced the struts, outer tie rods, control arms, and sway bar links on my 2008 Mustang V6. The only things I didn't replace were the inner tie rods because they looked okay. I still have the clunking noise in the front. At first I thought I didn't torque down the sway bar links to the struts. While I was under the car changing the oil today, I saw that the rubber of the outer tie rods were damaged. Could this be causing the the clunking noise? I wouldn't think it would be the strut mounts because I replaced the the entire assembly. I really don't know what else it could be. Also, can someone recommend a good company for the new outer tie rods I will have to buy? Thanks.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...stang$253E2008
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-3130CB/2005...er-Tie-Rod-End
https://www.americanmuscle.com/musta...erod-0514.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-fr...link-0514.html
Welcome to the forum, as an official posting member ...
The clunk also might be due to the sway bar hitting the frame, below the radiator where it attaches with the two bushings. If the bushings are not "thick" enough to hold the sway bar out away from the metal supporting structure, you can get metal-to-metal contact. If that is the issue, I think new bushings might cure it; or you might need to put a small shim behind the bushing to push the sway bar out away from the support a little, to prevent that metal-to-metal contact. I hope that makes sense, I think I might have taken pictures of this but can't find them right now.
The clunk also might be due to the sway bar hitting the frame, below the radiator where it attaches with the two bushings. If the bushings are not "thick" enough to hold the sway bar out away from the metal supporting structure, you can get metal-to-metal contact. If that is the issue, I think new bushings might cure it; or you might need to put a small shim behind the bushing to push the sway bar out away from the support a little, to prevent that metal-to-metal contact. I hope that makes sense, I think I might have taken pictures of this but can't find them right now.
Last edited by Bert; Sep 6, 2022 at 10:25 AM.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 4,278
From: Visalia Ca.
Welcome to the forum, as an official posting member ...
The clunk also might be due to the sway bar hitting the frame, below the radiator where it attaches with the two bushings. If the bushings are not "thick" enough to hold the sway bar our away from the metal supporting structure, you can get metal-to-metal contact. If that is the issue, I think new bushings might cure it; or you might need to put a small shim behind the bushing to push the sway bar out away from the support a little, to prevent that metal-to-metal contact. I hope that makes sense, I think I might have taken pictures of this but can't find them right now.
The clunk also might be due to the sway bar hitting the frame, below the radiator where it attaches with the two bushings. If the bushings are not "thick" enough to hold the sway bar our away from the metal supporting structure, you can get metal-to-metal contact. If that is the issue, I think new bushings might cure it; or you might need to put a small shim behind the bushing to push the sway bar out away from the support a little, to prevent that metal-to-metal contact. I hope that makes sense, I think I might have taken pictures of this but can't find them right now.
Be Advised Ford Used Different Sway Bar Bushing Sizes and you will want to Specify those with a vin Number. The Rock Auto Site on those has Conflicting Info.
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; Sep 6, 2022 at 08:57 AM.
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Joined: May 11, 2006
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From what the OP described in her description, it would appear more than likely it's from damage to the outer tie rod end bushing that's responsible for causing the clunking noises
Thank you everyone! I really appreciate all the tips. I will definitely be ordering new outer tie rod ends and I will look into the sway bar as well.
Last edited by Jennifer Wright Pittman; Sep 7, 2022 at 10:48 AM.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,515
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From: Visalia Ca.
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Joined: May 11, 2006
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Well, I replaced the outer tie rods and the inner tie rods as well since I already had them on hand. What could it hurt, right? I STILL have the clunking noise and it's ticking me off! Could it be the control arms? It clunks when turning and the road is bumpy.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
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Try This.
Get in Car Start up. From Center Crank Steering Wheel hard All the Way Right. Then Quickly Back to Center. See if it POPS! Then Do Same on Left Crank Hard & Quick to Left Hold a Sec. Back To Center See it It Pops! If So I Suspect Upper Strut Mounts.
Also If no Pop First Time Try Moving Car Forward Quick Jerk Accel. Move Like 2 Feet. Hard Brake Stop Neutral ,Turn Test Again. Still No Pop, Hard Reverse 2 Feet, Brake Neutral ,Turn Test Again.
Might Want to Try Turn Test With Hood Up and Somebody Listening Close to Side Being Tested See if a Noise Occurs on Top or Below.
Then See Post 2 If Pop Was Discovered.
Added Strut Mount PDF Install.
Lmk,
KC
Get in Car Start up. From Center Crank Steering Wheel hard All the Way Right. Then Quickly Back to Center. See if it POPS! Then Do Same on Left Crank Hard & Quick to Left Hold a Sec. Back To Center See it It Pops! If So I Suspect Upper Strut Mounts.
Also If no Pop First Time Try Moving Car Forward Quick Jerk Accel. Move Like 2 Feet. Hard Brake Stop Neutral ,Turn Test Again. Still No Pop, Hard Reverse 2 Feet, Brake Neutral ,Turn Test Again.
Might Want to Try Turn Test With Hood Up and Somebody Listening Close to Side Being Tested See if a Noise Occurs on Top or Below.
Then See Post 2 If Pop Was Discovered.
Added Strut Mount PDF Install.
Lmk,
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; Oct 3, 2022 at 10:28 PM.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator






Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,644
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If its not coming from the sway bar end links? I would also suspect the upper strut mounts.. My advice would be to upgrade to OEM Motorcraft/GT500 strut mounts or order GT500 strut mounts from Ford Performance... The OEM 05-09 GT strut mounts are crap IMO!
I think I’ve figured it out!
Replace parts I ordered are crap. When am I going to learn you get what you pay for? From now on, I will no longer order parts that are manufactured by TRQ or from 1A Auto. 1A Auto sent me replacement outer tie rods about a month ago (free of charge) and the rubber is ripping already. Aaannnnnd the linkage at the strut is damaged! I will be ordering from American Muscle from now on.
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Unless the parts you order from American Muscle are from established/well known brands? I wouldn't order anything from them either... There's a very good reason American Muscle hasn't been a sponsored vendor on this site for quite sometime now... If your searching for aftermarket parts from very reliable sources? I'd strongly consider looking into vendors such as https://lmr.com/2005-09-Mustang https://www.cjponyparts.com and https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-1053.html
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