Windows Stickers and Build Sheets
10/14/06, 07:27 PM
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Windows Stickers and Build Sheets
I have asked my dealer to do as little prep work as possible once my 2007 GT Coupe arrives. I told him that he can check the fliuds and perform any necessary safety checks but not to remove any of the tags, stickers, decals, seat plastics etc. I also told him that he can wash the car but do not wax it. I want to claybar and detail the paint before I apply the stripes.
Other than the Window Sticker, are there any other tags or labels that I should be on the look-out for? I dont want to find out that some highly coveted tag was tossed into the garbage by my dealer.
I know in the past that Window Stickers could be difficult to remove in one peice. Is that still true? I would appreciate some thoughts on the best way to remove the sticker. I know that I can get a pdf copy but I want the orginal too.
Also, has anyone found a Build Sheet in their car? If so, where did you find it? I know that its not common to find a Build Sheet but I still want to know where to look in case I'm one of the lucky ones.
Thanks!
Mark
Other than the Window Sticker, are there any other tags or labels that I should be on the look-out for? I dont want to find out that some highly coveted tag was tossed into the garbage by my dealer.
I know in the past that Window Stickers could be difficult to remove in one peice. Is that still true? I would appreciate some thoughts on the best way to remove the sticker. I know that I can get a pdf copy but I want the orginal too.
Also, has anyone found a Build Sheet in their car? If so, where did you find it? I know that its not common to find a Build Sheet but I still want to know where to look in case I'm one of the lucky ones.
Thanks!
Mark
10/14/06, 08:49 PM
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My window sticker was in pretty perfect condition.....until the dealership folded it in half to put it in the glove box.
I think the window stickers of today come off pretty easily.
I think the window stickers of today come off pretty easily.
10/14/06, 08:51 PM
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, and therefore it would be an absolute SIN to let the dealer wash your Mustang.Unless you don't mind the possibility of swirls, or fine scratches do NOT let the dealer wash your Mustang as the claybar and detailing will never repair scratches, even micro scratches. Sure you can fill them up with wax/polish but everytime you wash it they will come back...
10/14/06, 08:54 PM
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As was mentioned the window stickers comes off pretty easy with no damage. There almost like those plastic stickers, like for oil changes, which you can put on your windshield and then remove if you know what I mean.
10/14/06, 09:26 PM
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Sonic, you are right. I'm pretty **** when it comes to my car ;-)
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
Thanks!
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
Thanks!
10/15/06, 09:02 AM
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In any regards it is always best to wash by hand NEVER use a brush at the car wash as they can really do some damage over time or if someone just filled it up with crap from their tires (mud, dirt, etc). If you can not wash your vehicle by hand because it gets to cold out then the next best thing is to use a “touchless†wash. It won’t get it as clean as by hand but they do an excellent job and nothing every touches the vehicle.
The write up:
Zaino Application
NOTE: Zaino is a synthetic polish therefore it is important to remember that once applied it is not like an ordinary wax that can easily be stripped off. It basically has to wear off. You can “wax†over Zaino, but you can’t Zaino over wax. Zaino has to be applied to a wax free/grease free surface.
1. Wash vehicle with the Dawn dishwashing soap. This will strip any wax or grease residue that may be present on the paint. Use a good quality wash mitt such as sheep skin. Do not use just an ordinary cloth. A good wash mitt along with plenty of suds is designed to pick the dirt up into the mitt and not leave it on the surface of the mitt where it can get dragged around and introduce scratches in the paint.
Do NOT use the same wash mitt for the tires, rims and exhaust as you use on the paint. You could pick up some pieces of dirt etc that could cause scratches to your paint. Use an old wash mitt for the tire, rims and exhaust.
It is also a good idea (ok **** LOL) to use 2 wash buckets. One with the carwash soap and one with clean water. Once you have washed a section rinse the wash mitt in the clean water bucket then use the carwash soap bucket. This reduces the possibility of having some fine dirt in the wash mitt that could cause scratching.
2. Get a 20oz size or so plastic spray bottle. Fill it 2/3 full of clean water. Put about half a cap (from the Zaino car wash bottle) of the Zaino car wash in with the water. Put the spray nozzle back on and mix solution.
You will use this to lubricate the paint when claying the vehicle.
3. Use the Zaino, or any good brand of clay. If it is the Zaino clay it comes with two pieces in the bottle. Take one and separate it into 2 pieces. Main reason for doing this is IF you DROP it on the ground you MUST throw the clay away. Do NOT bother trying to get the dropped clay clean because you will never get all the little dirt specks out, some you won’t see but if you try to use it after dropping on the ground you WILL see nice little scratches in your paint.
Now with your piece of clay in hand, spray the mixed solution on an area of about 1 sq foot. Spray generously (the solution is cheap so don’t worry about over kill) if you spray to lightly if will dry up quick, which makes it easy for the clay to STICK to the paint (no problem) except when it sticks you’ll most likely to drop it. Move the clay back and forth or up and down (not in circular motions) until it feels smooth or feels like it needs more lubrication. You will know if you are picking stuff up because it feels a bit rough, or kind of like clicking while you go back and forth. When it is real smooth you know the area is done. You may also find most the vehicle feels smooth as you clay, but down around the fenders, bottom of the door etc will most likely be the areas that need the claying.
As your claying you want to turn the clay frequently, knead it where you’re turning the area of the clay you used into itself to expose an area of clay that has not been used yet. If you use the same area of the clay, especially after you feel a rough spot on the paint surface you will be dragging the stuff you picked up across the paint. Myself I would recommend after you do 1 – 2 areas to knead the clay and use and area that hasn’t been used yet.
4. After you finish claying wash the vehicle again, this time use the Zaino car wash.
5. Dry the vehicle using a good quality Microfiber towel or 100% cotton towels (made in the USA). The good brands not the cheap crap from overseas, because even though they say 100% cotton they have other materials in them that could scratch the paint, this goes for Microfiber towels as well. Stay away from the real cheap deals in auto parts stores etc. There may be other recommendations for drying from other post so you decide which suits you best. I would highly recommend using the Microfiber rather then the cotton towels because it will reduce your chances of introducing scratches.
6. After the vehicle has been dried your ready to polish using the Zaino. If you do not have the ZFX I would HIGHLY recommend you get the ZFX. The following is assuming you’re using the ZFX, if not the dry time may be much longer after you put a coat on.
7. Mix the ZFX with the Z2 or Z5 using the 2oz bottles provided in the kit. If you fill the bottle close to 2oz (approx. 1 1/2oz or 2/3rd full in the plastic bottle should be plenty for 3 coats) then you will want about 8 drops of the ZFX. Mix well for about a minute. Let sit for about 5 minutes while you get things ready.
8. Get your applicator ready by wetting it and ringing it out good. This helps so it doesn’t absorb a lot of the polish. After the 5 minutes re-shake the bottle again and now you’re ready to polish. On the sides of the vehicle, doors, fenders, tailgate etc put the polish on in an up and down motion (not circular) just straight up and down. Put it on LIGHTLY I would say about a dime size amount of polish on the applicator will do about a 2 foot section or so.
On the hood, do the same straight application, from the windshield to the front of the hood, not from one side to the other, from the windshield to the front of the vehicle.
The trick is doing very thin coats of Zaino. A 2oz bottle filled about 2/3’s full (with the ZFX kit) should be plenty to do 3 coats for the entire vehicle.
9. Once you are done applying the Zaino with the ZFX I would wait about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes find an area you can run you’re finger across to see if it is clear and shinny or if it looks smeared.
It WILL be HARD TO SEE the Zaino polish when it has hazed if you have a light color like silver. I had silver and it is a pain to see but now I have sonic blue and you can tell a little.
NOTE: Zaino does NOT haze like normal wax. It is very light to almost clear.
You want to make sure that it is NOT smearing. It won’t hurt the paint, it will mean the Zaino has not dried completely and it will be a PAIN IN THE @SS to take off. If it does smear with the finger test wait another 15 minutes or so and check again.
When it is dry, it is very easy to buff off. If you feel like you’re really having to buff the hell out of it to get it off (towel DONT feel like it glides right across the paint) then it is not dry and it’s just smearing around.
IMPORTANT, when buffing off the polish to use same type of towels, highly recommended to use Microfiber or (100% cotton made in the USA). Turn your towel frequently when buffing off the Zaino polish, like any other polish/wax.
Once your done buffing off the first coat you can apply the second coat (only if you’re using the ZFX) otherwise I think you have to wait like 8 hours in between coat. When using the ZFX you can only put a max. of 3 coats on in a day. You should really notice a nice difference after 3 – 5 coats. Some people use the Zaino Gloss enhance (detail spray) in between coats. I have done it before and not done it and didn’t notice any real difference. So myself I wouldn’t waste it between coats.
NOTE: Just a note about why I recommend up and down motions and NO to use circular motions is that regardless how hard you try not to introduce micro scratches to your paint or “swirls†it is almost impossible to not have some. Mind you these are extremely light and would be hard to tell.
It is much harder to see micro scratches “swirls†if they are horizontal or vertical to the body. When you have “circular†ones (common with buffers) they are very EASY to see in the right light, and if bad enough to see at any time.
You should wash in the same manner, either up and down, or side to side. Sure, it’s **** but it does work and work well.
Hope this helps a bit…
NOTE: Zaino is a synthetic polish therefore it is important to remember that once applied it is not like an ordinary wax that can easily be stripped off. It basically has to wear off. You can “wax†over Zaino, but you can’t Zaino over wax. Zaino has to be applied to a wax free/grease free surface.
1. Wash vehicle with the Dawn dishwashing soap. This will strip any wax or grease residue that may be present on the paint. Use a good quality wash mitt such as sheep skin. Do not use just an ordinary cloth. A good wash mitt along with plenty of suds is designed to pick the dirt up into the mitt and not leave it on the surface of the mitt where it can get dragged around and introduce scratches in the paint.
Do NOT use the same wash mitt for the tires, rims and exhaust as you use on the paint. You could pick up some pieces of dirt etc that could cause scratches to your paint. Use an old wash mitt for the tire, rims and exhaust.
It is also a good idea (ok **** LOL) to use 2 wash buckets. One with the carwash soap and one with clean water. Once you have washed a section rinse the wash mitt in the clean water bucket then use the carwash soap bucket. This reduces the possibility of having some fine dirt in the wash mitt that could cause scratching.
2. Get a 20oz size or so plastic spray bottle. Fill it 2/3 full of clean water. Put about half a cap (from the Zaino car wash bottle) of the Zaino car wash in with the water. Put the spray nozzle back on and mix solution.
You will use this to lubricate the paint when claying the vehicle.
3. Use the Zaino, or any good brand of clay. If it is the Zaino clay it comes with two pieces in the bottle. Take one and separate it into 2 pieces. Main reason for doing this is IF you DROP it on the ground you MUST throw the clay away. Do NOT bother trying to get the dropped clay clean because you will never get all the little dirt specks out, some you won’t see but if you try to use it after dropping on the ground you WILL see nice little scratches in your paint.
Now with your piece of clay in hand, spray the mixed solution on an area of about 1 sq foot. Spray generously (the solution is cheap so don’t worry about over kill) if you spray to lightly if will dry up quick, which makes it easy for the clay to STICK to the paint (no problem) except when it sticks you’ll most likely to drop it. Move the clay back and forth or up and down (not in circular motions) until it feels smooth or feels like it needs more lubrication. You will know if you are picking stuff up because it feels a bit rough, or kind of like clicking while you go back and forth. When it is real smooth you know the area is done. You may also find most the vehicle feels smooth as you clay, but down around the fenders, bottom of the door etc will most likely be the areas that need the claying.
As your claying you want to turn the clay frequently, knead it where you’re turning the area of the clay you used into itself to expose an area of clay that has not been used yet. If you use the same area of the clay, especially after you feel a rough spot on the paint surface you will be dragging the stuff you picked up across the paint. Myself I would recommend after you do 1 – 2 areas to knead the clay and use and area that hasn’t been used yet.
4. After you finish claying wash the vehicle again, this time use the Zaino car wash.
5. Dry the vehicle using a good quality Microfiber towel or 100% cotton towels (made in the USA). The good brands not the cheap crap from overseas, because even though they say 100% cotton they have other materials in them that could scratch the paint, this goes for Microfiber towels as well. Stay away from the real cheap deals in auto parts stores etc. There may be other recommendations for drying from other post so you decide which suits you best. I would highly recommend using the Microfiber rather then the cotton towels because it will reduce your chances of introducing scratches.
6. After the vehicle has been dried your ready to polish using the Zaino. If you do not have the ZFX I would HIGHLY recommend you get the ZFX. The following is assuming you’re using the ZFX, if not the dry time may be much longer after you put a coat on.
7. Mix the ZFX with the Z2 or Z5 using the 2oz bottles provided in the kit. If you fill the bottle close to 2oz (approx. 1 1/2oz or 2/3rd full in the plastic bottle should be plenty for 3 coats) then you will want about 8 drops of the ZFX. Mix well for about a minute. Let sit for about 5 minutes while you get things ready.
8. Get your applicator ready by wetting it and ringing it out good. This helps so it doesn’t absorb a lot of the polish. After the 5 minutes re-shake the bottle again and now you’re ready to polish. On the sides of the vehicle, doors, fenders, tailgate etc put the polish on in an up and down motion (not circular) just straight up and down. Put it on LIGHTLY I would say about a dime size amount of polish on the applicator will do about a 2 foot section or so.
On the hood, do the same straight application, from the windshield to the front of the hood, not from one side to the other, from the windshield to the front of the vehicle.
The trick is doing very thin coats of Zaino. A 2oz bottle filled about 2/3’s full (with the ZFX kit) should be plenty to do 3 coats for the entire vehicle.
9. Once you are done applying the Zaino with the ZFX I would wait about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes find an area you can run you’re finger across to see if it is clear and shinny or if it looks smeared.
It WILL be HARD TO SEE the Zaino polish when it has hazed if you have a light color like silver. I had silver and it is a pain to see but now I have sonic blue and you can tell a little.
NOTE: Zaino does NOT haze like normal wax. It is very light to almost clear.
You want to make sure that it is NOT smearing. It won’t hurt the paint, it will mean the Zaino has not dried completely and it will be a PAIN IN THE @SS to take off. If it does smear with the finger test wait another 15 minutes or so and check again.
When it is dry, it is very easy to buff off. If you feel like you’re really having to buff the hell out of it to get it off (towel DONT feel like it glides right across the paint) then it is not dry and it’s just smearing around.
IMPORTANT, when buffing off the polish to use same type of towels, highly recommended to use Microfiber or (100% cotton made in the USA). Turn your towel frequently when buffing off the Zaino polish, like any other polish/wax.
Once your done buffing off the first coat you can apply the second coat (only if you’re using the ZFX) otherwise I think you have to wait like 8 hours in between coat. When using the ZFX you can only put a max. of 3 coats on in a day. You should really notice a nice difference after 3 – 5 coats. Some people use the Zaino Gloss enhance (detail spray) in between coats. I have done it before and not done it and didn’t notice any real difference. So myself I wouldn’t waste it between coats.
NOTE: Just a note about why I recommend up and down motions and NO to use circular motions is that regardless how hard you try not to introduce micro scratches to your paint or “swirls†it is almost impossible to not have some. Mind you these are extremely light and would be hard to tell.
It is much harder to see micro scratches “swirls†if they are horizontal or vertical to the body. When you have “circular†ones (common with buffers) they are very EASY to see in the right light, and if bad enough to see at any time.
You should wash in the same manner, either up and down, or side to side. Sure, it’s **** but it does work and work well.
Hope this helps a bit…
10/15/06, 09:09 AM
#8
Sonic, you are right. I'm pretty **** when it comes to my car ;-)
Not as much as me!
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
No harm in letting them wash the car. There's a line between being **** and paranoid.
I do agree with not letting them wax the car though.
Not as much as me!
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
No harm in letting them wash the car. There's a line between being **** and paranoid.
I do agree with not letting them wax the car though.
10/15/06, 09:13 AM
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Sonic, you are right. I'm pretty **** when it comes to my car ;-)
Not as much as me!
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
No harm in letting them wash the car. There's a line between being **** and paranoid.
I do agree with not letting them wax the car though.
Not as much as me!
Please describe for us your recommended method when washing the car for the first time.
No harm in letting them wash the car. There's a line between being **** and paranoid.
I do agree with not letting them wax the car though.
No way in hell I would ever let anybody use one of those. If your dealer washes by hand and used the appropriate materials, good wash mitt, clean wash mitt etc then I "might" think about letting the 17 year old kid who makes $7 or so an hour attempt it.
Then again, not a chance...
10/15/06, 09:21 AM
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Sonic, that is fantastic information! I think it should be a "sticky".
I had already intended to use the Zaino system so I am very happy to see your mention of it.
I just have one question...
I am going to install a LeMans stripe kit to my car. Should I do it before or after the Zaino?
Thank you!
I had already intended to use the Zaino system so I am very happy to see your mention of it.
I just have one question...
I am going to install a LeMans stripe kit to my car. Should I do it before or after the Zaino?
Thank you!
10/15/06, 09:22 AM
#11
I walked the lot at my dealership when I placed my order and found no (paint finish) issues with the cars that were washed. Being a Saleen dealer, maybe they have a better car washing system?
10/15/06, 09:25 AM
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10/15/06, 10:24 AM
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Dealership detail jobs SUCK! It took me all afternoon to undo what they did. The various stickers come off easily. I have all mine in a folder with my brochures and stuff. Don't let them put their dealership logo on the back decklid or poke holes on the front bumper for a license plate either.
10/15/06, 10:53 AM
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if you dont want the dealership sticker you may need to remind them a few times... i told my dealer early on and for got to remind him. when i showed up there was dealer sticker on it, which i peeled off as soon a i got home... if he does put it on take it off asap casue its easy at first but will eventually become hard to remove
10/15/06, 11:07 AM
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Speaking of car washes, here's something interesting...
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/10/08/v...-000-car-wash/
Enjoy.
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/10/08/v...-000-car-wash/
Enjoy.
10/15/06, 11:11 AM
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Fortunately, my dealer does not use any kind of stickers. They use license plate frames to do thier advertising. I have already told them to leave it off.
My dealer is pretty good to work with. Before the car gets here I'm gonna tell him to just roll it off the truck and leave it alone. No wash, no tags, nothing!
We will check the fluids, make sure all of the parts (antenna, wheel caps, floormats, etc) are present and then do an inspection to make sure all of the body panels line up and that there is no obvious paint or body damage. Then we will make sure that everything functions the way it should.
After that I will take it to my buddy's shop to do the cleaning and preperation for the accessories I have purchased.
I'm looking forward to working on it!
Mark
My dealer is pretty good to work with. Before the car gets here I'm gonna tell him to just roll it off the truck and leave it alone. No wash, no tags, nothing!
We will check the fluids, make sure all of the parts (antenna, wheel caps, floormats, etc) are present and then do an inspection to make sure all of the body panels line up and that there is no obvious paint or body damage. Then we will make sure that everything functions the way it should.
After that I will take it to my buddy's shop to do the cleaning and preperation for the accessories I have purchased.
I'm looking forward to working on it!
Mark
10/15/06, 01:36 PM
#17
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
Detailing: I'd do what Bill said and walk the lot looking at the cars they've already detailed. Especially the black ones and do it bright sunlight. No shade or on a cloudy day. The Mustang's Black Clearcoat shows EVERY little scratch so pay close attention to those. If they do a good job on those, you're Orange will be fine.
IF you decide the dealership is good at detailing, I'd let them do it because they're supposed to use a special cleaner that removes raildust. (just using a claybar won't get it off) And since you're getting an orange car, it'll be harder to see, but it'll still be there. There's actually a TSB on it.
Stripes: Don't wax it before the stripes. You'll only have to strip off the wax before you apply the stripes. If you plan on striping it real soon, just tell them not to wax it.
Window Sticker: The window sticker isn't even a sticker anymore. There's actually another sheet of paper that's behind the window sticker holding it to the window. It's about an inch bigger than the window sticker and that extra inch is what sticks to the window. (see first pic) The window sticker is sandwiched between the paper and the glass and doesn't stick to either one. That's why the window sticker comes off in perfect condition.
Paperwork: Here's what was on & in my car when it was delivered. I drove mine off the car hauler myself, so I know nothing was removed. The dealership never even saw my car until I posted pictures of it online. (BTW, they don't put build sheets in the cars anymore because they don't use them.)
LOCATIONS:
1. Driver's window beside window sticker.
2. Hanging from glove box.
3. Driver's side quarter window.
4. Hanging from driver's sun visor.
5. In glove box.
6. Laying in passenger floorboard. (This isn't in every car. It's up to the factory)
Apparently, there are a couple of things I didn't keep.
One is a barcode sticker that's usually on the driver's side quarter window, but could be on the driver's side window. (see last pic) This is a real sticker so it's hard to remove without damaging it. (hair dryer should help though) I know they've recently changed these on the trucks. I'm not sure if all Ford products have changed. They only look slightly different though.
The other is the little sticker on the seat plastic that indicates things like leather or cloth, air bags, date seat was made (indicated by a picture of Frankenstein.
), passenger or driver, etc.
IF you decide the dealership is good at detailing, I'd let them do it because they're supposed to use a special cleaner that removes raildust. (just using a claybar won't get it off) And since you're getting an orange car, it'll be harder to see, but it'll still be there. There's actually a TSB on it.
Stripes: Don't wax it before the stripes. You'll only have to strip off the wax before you apply the stripes. If you plan on striping it real soon, just tell them not to wax it.
Window Sticker: The window sticker isn't even a sticker anymore. There's actually another sheet of paper that's behind the window sticker holding it to the window. It's about an inch bigger than the window sticker and that extra inch is what sticks to the window. (see first pic) The window sticker is sandwiched between the paper and the glass and doesn't stick to either one. That's why the window sticker comes off in perfect condition.
Paperwork: Here's what was on & in my car when it was delivered. I drove mine off the car hauler myself, so I know nothing was removed. The dealership never even saw my car until I posted pictures of it online. (BTW, they don't put build sheets in the cars anymore because they don't use them.)
LOCATIONS:
1. Driver's window beside window sticker.
2. Hanging from glove box.
3. Driver's side quarter window.
4. Hanging from driver's sun visor.
5. In glove box.
6. Laying in passenger floorboard. (This isn't in every car. It's up to the factory)
Apparently, there are a couple of things I didn't keep.
One is a barcode sticker that's usually on the driver's side quarter window, but could be on the driver's side window. (see last pic) This is a real sticker so it's hard to remove without damaging it. (hair dryer should help though) I know they've recently changed these on the trucks. I'm not sure if all Ford products have changed. They only look slightly different though.
The other is the little sticker on the seat plastic that indicates things like leather or cloth, air bags, date seat was made (indicated by a picture of Frankenstein.
), passenger or driver, etc.
10/15/06, 01:55 PM
#18
Team Mustang Source Legacy Member
Some other paperwork that's especially great to have, partly because it's hard to get, is:
1. Dealer Invoice
2. VOC (Vehicle Order Confirmation)
3. DORA (Dealer Order Receipt Acknowledgement)
4. Delivery Receipt (aka Bill of Lading) This one might be as hard to get as the actual dealer invoice... especially with your own signature on it.
1. Dealer Invoice
2. VOC (Vehicle Order Confirmation)
3. DORA (Dealer Order Receipt Acknowledgement)
4. Delivery Receipt (aka Bill of Lading) This one might be as hard to get as the actual dealer invoice... especially with your own signature on it.
10/15/06, 03:49 PM
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IF you decide the dealership is good at detailing, I'd let them do it because they're supposed to use a special cleaner that removes raildust. (just using a claybar won't get it off) And since you're getting an orange car, it'll be harder to see, but it'll still be there. There's actually a TSB on it.
I have never had any issues removing rail dust, brake dust etc using a claybar and when used properly it will remove all rail dust, at least to a point you would never feel it with your hand or plastic wrap gliding over the area with lubrication.
I have never heard of a TSB for vehicles due to rail dust as rail dust happens to any make of vehicles that travel by rail cars. There may indeed be a TSB for the Mustang but I would find that really quite silly since it’s nothing new and has happened for decades and will continue to unless they completely cover vehicles that travel by rail.
I know I am **** but my vehicles always look like show cars and it begins by not allowing anybody to touch it once it comes of the factory assembly line, it’s not being paranoid but **** at its best…