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Hey guys, I have headers on my 3v, don't know which, they were on the car when I got it. They seem to be rubbing on these plates that are bolted in over top of some bushings (I think). I assume the headers are steel, so I'm not worried about damaging the headers, but I don't want any unnecessary vibrations.
I was recently at an exhaust shop and when the car was on the lift, the owner noticed that they were rubbing. He pointed it out to me and said it would be worth having my motor mounts checked. I can change the mounts myself no problem, and with them being pretty cheap, I'd rather just replace them than have them checked out, potentially diagnosed as bad, ordered, and have them install them. The car only has 52k miles, so I wouldn't expect them to be allowing the engine to sit lower than intended. It is supercharged, so it does see a bit more strain than they were designed to withstand though I suppose. I don't know exactly what to look for, but they didn't seem to be cracked or anything. There was a rubber boot type of cover on them and I lifted it to look at what I assume was the actual mount itself. I'm guessing this is what I'm supposed to look for haha.
Anyway, I will of course include pictures of the pieces I'm talking about. I'm all for doing things the right way, so if it is suggested that I get new mounts I will certainly do so. Most seem to look the same for the most part, but the BMR mounts on American Muscle say they are made from steel and cost about the same as the rest I've found, so I think I'll go with those unless someone mentions some negative about them that I've yet to read. If these "plates" are unneeded, I'll take them off. I just worry about the bushings melting. Thank you
I have never noticed those shields on my car. I'm pretty sure I don't have them.
It's been so long ago but I used the BMR or Steeda or Prothane motor mounts or something like that. When the engine torques the stock motor mount is too flexible and forgiving. It lets the engine twist and move more so as to keep NVH to a minimum and make the average everyday Mustang happy with how smooth and quiet there car is. The aluminum mounts with prothane still allow movement but not as much. And they are way smaller and take up far less space next to the header.
When I put the headers in 8 years ago it was a given that you change the motor mounts from stock to the aftermarket ones.
I've never seen those on my car. Those sook they might have been fabbed up. The edges don't look like a finished product. I could be completely wrong but I know I never had them on my car. I have BMR K-member and A-arms so I definitely know I don't have those things and I'm sure I never took them out when I did my swap.
What brand headers are those? Maybe they just don't fit all that good. I don't think there would be anything wrong if you removed them but it does look close to that bushing. Maybe the previous owner put them in because of the proximity of the headers to that bushing. Maybe.
Here is my stock K-member. There are no heat shields
Maybe those are after market motor mounts already. I'm pretty sure they have some that drops the engine a bit. I also would not think the motor mounts are bad with only 50k miles on them.
The TSB is for the 5.0 models and their heat issues with the exhaust. These are modified for no reason I can really discern... but they are on there for your headers, which obviously makes the heat happen closer than the original 4.6 exhaust, so they're a really good idea in your case.
That said, if they're rubbing/contacting the heat shield, then they are potentially part of the problem. Your obvious solution is to remove the headers.
But that's silly talk. Instead, remove the heat shields... and be ready to replace the bushings/control arms more as they start to groan.
I'd get a crowbar, myself, and bend them in the affected areas so they don't touch, 'cause I'd keep 'em to keep the bushings from failing.
I got them off today before reading the most recent post. That's exactly what they are. I'm glad they're aluminum, they'll be much easier to bend. That said, with how small they are, it's going to be annoying. I guess I'll be putting them back on tomorrow after work. I doubt a drive to and from will ruin them.
I don't know what headers they are. I think they're just no name headers. There's no branding anywhere on them or the mid pipe. Also, they don't look like aftermarket motor mounts. Because the shields were rubbing, I had to bend them a bit to get out, nothing major, but that just adds to the headache. I wish headers weren't so expensive, I'd just put new ones in.
I got them off today before reading the most recent post. That's exactly what they are. I'm glad they're aluminum, they'll be much easier to bend. That said, with how small they are, it's going to be annoying. I guess I'll be putting them back on tomorrow after work. I doubt a drive to and from will ruin them.
I don't know what headers they are. I think they're just no name headers. There's no branding anywhere on them or the mid pipe. Also, they don't look like aftermarket motor mounts. Because the shields were rubbing, I had to bend them a bit to get out, nothing major, but that just adds to the headache. I wish headers weren't so expensive, I'd just put new ones in.
Oh well, thanks for the help guys.
I'll have to see how close my headers are to that bushing. You can get cheap headers. I paid $525 with a mid-pipe. Probably around $400 with just the headers. Cheaper if you get the non-coated painted ones. Curious as to how hot that bushing gets. You don't have one of those laser infrared thermometers do you?
I know motor mounts were written off earlier but these things cane fail pretty easily as they are those hydro filled rubber things. If the water leaks out they get pretty flimsy. Notice on the pic of my K-member above, no stock mounts.
They are there to keep the heat from the exhaust ruining the rubber bushings. Ford had to come up with a TSB to put them on the 13'-14's for that reason. My '13 went through two sets of bushings before Ford figured out what to do. It won't take long before your's will need a set without them.
Well I got them back in today. I was able to get a couple millimeters worth of clearance but that's with the wheels sitting farther down than normal since it was up on stands. I don't know if that gap will close when it's down on the ground. If it rubs, it rubs I guess. I also noticed (I don't know what it is called) the metal rod that connects to the steering wheel slightly rubs the headers. The marks are only noticeable on the header though so I'm not too worried about the rod. I guess I'll start saving for new headers. I can put them in no problem, it's just buying them and matching it to a mid pipe that will be a pain.
The picture sucks but it was the only angle I could be at to show there's actually a small gap
I was looking at headers for my '06, and one of the complaints is many of the header brands rub the steering rod. I have no idea why the manufacturers can't fix that little problem. My neighbor put headers on his little Bronco, and had the same problem. He removed the problem header, and with a ball peen hammer he worked on the problem area. Worked fine.
I was looking at headers for my '06, and one of the complaints is many of the header brands rub the steering rod. I have no idea why the manufacturers can't fix that little problem. My neighbor put headers on his little Bronco, and had the same problem. He removed the problem header, and with a ball peen hammer he worked on the problem area. Worked fine.
I don't think I've ever had an exhaust fit "properly." I've always had to massage or tweak a part to make them fit.
8/9/17, 03:14 PM
Instead, remove the heat shields... and be ready to replace the bushings/control arms more as they start to groan.
