Steering wheel shimmy
6/25/13, 10:15 AM
#1
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Steering wheel shimmy
I've got a 2006 GT, that I've been chasing a steering wheel shake on. I've recently replaced the front rotors and brake pads, and just got 4 new Nitto's mounted and balanced on the fanblades . Although the shake has gotten better, it is still present at about 55-65. Any other ideas on what this could be? Would an alignment help this problem?
-Joel
-Joel
6/25/13, 11:04 AM
#2
Mach 1 Member
I've got a 2006 GT, that I've been chasing a steering wheel shake on. I've recently replaced the front rotors and brake pads, and just got 4 new Nitto's mounted and balanced on the fanblades . Although the shake has gotten better, it is still present at about 55-65. Any other ideas on what this could be? Would an alignment help this problem?
-Joel
-Joel
6/26/13, 07:17 AM
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I noticed on my commute today, that the shake is more pronounced when turning. It's the worst right at 65, and by 80, it's making the whole car shimmy. Below 40 it's smooth as butter.
6/27/13, 08:46 PM
#7
Bullitt Member
I've got the shimmy on my 06 GT Vert too. I had the front tires balanced and it helped a little. Up front I have new lower control arms, springs, struts, strut mounts, strut tower brace. In the rear I replaced springs, shocks, LCA, pan hard rod & brace. I'm going to get the rear wheels balanced and see if that helps.
I also remembered when I had a steering wheel shimmy on my Expy it was caused by bad ball joints, you may want to have those checked out.
I also remembered when I had a steering wheel shimmy on my Expy it was caused by bad ball joints, you may want to have those checked out.
6/27/13, 09:04 PM
#8
Legacy TMS Member
Wheel balance would be the obvious culprit, but I wonder if it might have something to do with the steering rack, specifically the inner tire rod ends?
I'm suffering from a similar condition and the part that makes me scratch my head was the need for some serious toe alignment. That may have been a consequence of installing CC plates and new springs with dampers but I cant help but wonder if there is a problem with the rack on my car at least?
I'm suffering from a similar condition and the part that makes me scratch my head was the need for some serious toe alignment. That may have been a consequence of installing CC plates and new springs with dampers but I cant help but wonder if there is a problem with the rack on my car at least?
7/2/13, 12:06 AM
#9
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bob I was wonder the same thing about the inner tie rod ends. I think I have some play on my drivers side but I'd have to remove the boot to see if that's where the play is.
7/2/13, 01:02 PM
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Well, I guess I gave my local Discount Tire too much credit. They didn't balance them correctly/if at all when I had the Nittos mounted. Ford tech told me it was either a bent wheel or misbalance. Made a trip back in to DT, and they balanced them up and she's smooth as butter.
7/2/13, 07:00 PM
#11
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It is amazing what a good balance can do
Well, I guess I gave my local Discount Tire too much credit. They didn't balance them correctly/if at all when I had the Nittos mounted. Ford tech told me it was either a bent wheel or misbalance. Made a trip back in to DT, and they balanced them up and she's smooth as butter.
Felt like crap until I went to a shop with a good speed balance.
7/6/13, 07:51 AM
#12
Legacy TMS Member
I've been chasing down a front end shake in my car for the last 2 years. Pretty much anything wrong in the front end can cause it (except swaybars). Here are a couple things to look at:
(I've been told that sometimes if there is just enough play in the failing component that you may not be able to see it without use of something like a prybar because it takes more force than you can apply by hand --use your judgement and be careful)
(I've been told that sometimes if there is just enough play in the failing component that you may not be able to see it without use of something like a prybar because it takes more force than you can apply by hand --use your judgement and be careful)
- Ball joints
- Get the car up in the air and shake the wheel side to side. look at the ball joint while you're doing it and watch for any play
- Outer Tie rod
- Same as the ball joint but watch the tie rod end
- Inner Tie rod
- This is a little more difficult to diagnose because there's a rubber boot on the end of the steering rack covering it. I have yet to diagnose this, but I had my dealer look at it and they assured me it was OK. As far as I know, the way to diagnose is to shake the wheel side to side and watch for any play. You can't really do that with the boot on. Another thing to try is only lift one of the front wheels off the ground and then shake the wheel side to side. The tire on the ground should help immobilize the steering rack --unless you've got worn ball joints or tie rods on the grounded side.
- Upper Strut mount
- Grab the strut and give that sucker a shake
- Failing strut
- Look for any oil leaking, repeatedly push down on the front end enough to get the front end bouncing --when you stop it should pretty much immediately go back to rest after an extra oscillation or two. Any more than that and you might have a bad strut
- Steering Rack
- It could be from excessive play in the rack/pinion
- I'm told it could also be worn bushings where the steering arms come out of the rack
- If anyone's done any work to the car where they had to remove the steering rack mounting bolts, make sure they're torqued back to spec
- Front control arms --Worn bushings in the front or rear
- Look at the condition of the bushings for any deterioration.Try to see if there is any play
- Wheel bearing
- Lift the car and shake the wheel top to bottom. It shouldn't have any play.
- You can also use a dial gauge to check the runout on the wheel hub
- Wheel not true/wheel not mounted true
- Put the car up in the air and give the wheel a spin. If you see the outside lip of the wheel moving in and out (more than a mm or two --no wheel/tire is 100% perfect) then something is wrong
- Check that the mounting surface between the hub and the rotor is clean and between the rotor and the wheel. clean up with a wire brush if necessary
- Check that all of your lug nuts are torqued evenly
- A shop that balances tires can tell you if your wheel isn't true. When they spin it on the balancer they should see excessive runout.
- If you have aftermarket wheels, you might need to remove the rotor retaining crimp nut. The stock wheels have extra material bored out on the back side of the wheel to leave space for this, but certain aftermarket ones won't. This can keep the wheel from mounting flush :
7/13/13, 09:16 PM
#13
legacy Tms Member
Id rebalance first. I never balance new tires until a few miles of hard start/stops...i always line up something ( like the i in radial) with the valvestem, and about 3/4 of the time the tires will slip 45 to 90 degrees on the wheels the first few miles, but never had one move after... Slip is usually in the direction of braking, not accellerating...
Funny at work they are running a new z28 wheel with knurled outer beadseat to help prevent tire slippage, but i bet you the slippage they are seeing is just the typical slipping due to mounting lubes... Who knows...
Funny at work they are running a new z28 wheel with knurled outer beadseat to help prevent tire slippage, but i bet you the slippage they are seeing is just the typical slipping due to mounting lubes... Who knows...
7/16/13, 09:32 AM
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7/16/13, 10:59 AM
#17
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These are the rods that connect the rack & pinion to the wheels. The inner tie rod usually goes first. It's a long rod with a ball socket that when it wears out it has play in it. When you grab the tire and move it side to side you'll see the littlest bit of play and when you're going over 50 you really feel it thru the steering wheel. You can get them at your local auto parts store, I went to Advance Auto Parts and picked up the inners for $16 each and the outers for $19 each.
My 06 has 88.5K so they were due to be replaced.
7/16/13, 06:50 PM
#18
Legacy TMS Member
Hmmmm.... something else crossed my mind, I wonder if my TPMS sensors and bands have worked themselves loose and have rotated on the wheels?
sound's crazy, but... ahem... the speed limiter in my car has been disabled and while I haven't yet reached the point where it is aero or gearing limited, my car has been well past 155 mph on more than a few occasions which might have contributed to my vibration issue.
I'm going to move to 19's when I get the chance and since the sensors are almost 5 years old they will need to be replaced anyway. AM sells a valvestem mounted retrofit which will save me a good amount of cash (no straps, cradles, and clips to worry about). So I'll have to see when I swap them out and have the old tires dismounted.
Recently the passenger side rear sensor strap broke and the loose assembly caused a severe vibration which was evident in the shift of all places as it caused the shifter to wobble badly in addition to the vibration felt through the car.
sound's crazy, but... ahem... the speed limiter in my car has been disabled and while I haven't yet reached the point where it is aero or gearing limited, my car has been well past 155 mph on more than a few occasions which might have contributed to my vibration issue.
I'm going to move to 19's when I get the chance and since the sensors are almost 5 years old they will need to be replaced anyway. AM sells a valvestem mounted retrofit which will save me a good amount of cash (no straps, cradles, and clips to worry about). So I'll have to see when I swap them out and have the old tires dismounted.
Recently the passenger side rear sensor strap broke and the loose assembly caused a severe vibration which was evident in the shift of all places as it caused the shifter to wobble badly in addition to the vibration felt through the car.
7/17/13, 09:34 AM
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Hmmmm.... something else crossed my mind, I wonder if my TPMS sensors and bands have worked themselves loose and have rotated on the wheels?
sound's crazy, but... ahem... the speed limiter in my car has been disabled and while I haven't yet reached the point where it is aero or gearing limited, my car has been well past 155 mph on more than a few occasions which might have contributed to my vibration issue.
sound's crazy, but... ahem... the speed limiter in my car has been disabled and while I haven't yet reached the point where it is aero or gearing limited, my car has been well past 155 mph on more than a few occasions which might have contributed to my vibration issue.
You should contact your Service Manager. He is in the best position to look into this for you. He can check into any warranty, TSBs, recalls, or Customer Satisfaction Programs that may apply to your vehicle.
Deysha
7/22/13, 08:56 PM
#20
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Thanks Deysha, but its a small enough repair cost wise (I think 140 bucks for all four sensors) that I don't mind, besides when I get around to some new wheels its going to save me a bundle anyways.