Rough Idle after changing spark plugs!
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Joined: April 23, 2019
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FIXED: Rough Idle after changing spark plugs!
Hi there,
I bought Motocraft spark plugs from the Ford dealer for my car Mustang GT 2005 and decided to install it my self since they are asking too much to install. i did and noticed a bad rough Idle at stopping and while am driving the car is not accelerate smoothly
. like there is some lag and the engine noise is higher. i can feel car body is shaking dont know why.
I tried to remove them, clean and make sure it fit. put them back and its the same. the car is shaking while driving. tried to clear MAF and TB but its the same. do i need to GAP the spark plugs even tho its OEM? i called them they said no need to, just plug it and that's it.
what could be the reason? no check engine showing also on the dashboard.
I bought Motocraft spark plugs from the Ford dealer for my car Mustang GT 2005 and decided to install it my self since they are asking too much to install. i did and noticed a bad rough Idle at stopping and while am driving the car is not accelerate smoothly
. like there is some lag and the engine noise is higher. i can feel car body is shaking dont know why.I tried to remove them, clean and make sure it fit. put them back and its the same. the car is shaking while driving. tried to clear MAF and TB but its the same. do i need to GAP the spark plugs even tho its OEM? i called them they said no need to, just plug it and that's it.
what could be the reason? no check engine showing also on the dashboard.
Last edited by shadad; Nov 16, 2019 at 11:14 PM.
Tms Mustang Member ------ The Customizer!
Joined: February 5, 2014
Posts: 859
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From: Canada
I always check the gap, even if they are to spec just to be sure. I found out that while changing my plugs some where not to spec.
I then broke them in by driving fast, dunno if that's needed, but after that the car felt like new.
I then broke them in by driving fast, dunno if that's needed, but after that the car felt like new.
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Joined: January 25, 2010
Posts: 3,971
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From: Massachusetts
don't know, but things to check:
- always a good idea to check the gap even though they are supposedly pregapped
- make sure no hoses or anything else got disconnected in the process of changing the plugs . . . did you have to move anything to gain access?
- make sure all the coil-on-plugs are firmly seated on their plugs
- if you do remove the plugs to check the gap, make sure they are torqued correctly on installation . . . "engine noise is higher" suggests there might be a leak
- also while you have them out, apply some high temperature nickel anti-seize so they will come out easily next time
- always a good idea to check the gap even though they are supposedly pregapped
- make sure no hoses or anything else got disconnected in the process of changing the plugs . . . did you have to move anything to gain access?
- make sure all the coil-on-plugs are firmly seated on their plugs
- if you do remove the plugs to check the gap, make sure they are torqued correctly on installation . . . "engine noise is higher" suggests there might be a leak
- also while you have them out, apply some high temperature nickel anti-seize so they will come out easily next time
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
Important: Regarding the gap, bear in mind, the correct dealer/oem/Motorcraft/Autolite plugs are full strap plugs, not half strap (hook) so the gaps are *preset and should not be messed with.* DO NOT REGAP THEM. If you bought another brand what was a 'normal' hook type, then you'd gap them. That said, you can use a feeler gauge or micrometers to check the gap is *correct* (and therefore if one isn't replace it), but otherwise, don't try to bend them, you'll mess them up. Ok, that's outta the way...
Sounds like a dead coil pack/plug.
Are you sure the plugs are all tightened correctly? Check the manual regarding, finger tight and then just a little more is usually all it takes. And they can 'blow out', so... just listen and see if that's the issue.
You can disconnect a coil pack's connector to see if the engine idle changes. If it does, that coil pack/plug is working. If it doesn't you've found. One at a time. Unless you can get a hold of a scan tool that'll say 'misfire cylinder x', then you can attack that cylinder directly. And if so, you can just swap a coil pack, say 1 to 2 and vice versa, to see if the misfire goes to the other cylinder. That'll find if the coil pack/plug is bad or the wiring on the indicated cylinder at least.
Also, be sure to ensure the coil pack and injector connectors are seated. Those things can be brittle and wind up not connecting due to the retention clip breaking in the connector. I've been told rather than repairing the connector, simply zip tie them to the coil/injector.
And if you were doing the nickel anti-seize on the 'hood' (between the threads and the electrodes), be sure you didn't get any on the open end. That'll cause misfire and quick, and might even ruin the plug and/or coil.
You might disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, and while that's happening, clean the throttle body and MAF with proper cleaners and techniques. Reattach battery when done. Turn car on, but do not start, and depress throttle pedal all the way to the floor over a period of about 4 seconds, then release. Then start and if it all works right now, go drive in normal traffic for 10 miles to relearn the computer. If not, then continue diagnosin', I suppose.
Oh yeah... you sure your battery is up to snuff? Semi-dead batteries have been known to do wonky stuff....
All I got. You might need a scan tool if none of that works to find out what the car might think is wrong. There's codes that'll set/trend but not set the money light.
Good luck! Hope that helps!
Sounds like a dead coil pack/plug.
Are you sure the plugs are all tightened correctly? Check the manual regarding, finger tight and then just a little more is usually all it takes. And they can 'blow out', so... just listen and see if that's the issue.
You can disconnect a coil pack's connector to see if the engine idle changes. If it does, that coil pack/plug is working. If it doesn't you've found. One at a time. Unless you can get a hold of a scan tool that'll say 'misfire cylinder x', then you can attack that cylinder directly. And if so, you can just swap a coil pack, say 1 to 2 and vice versa, to see if the misfire goes to the other cylinder. That'll find if the coil pack/plug is bad or the wiring on the indicated cylinder at least.
Also, be sure to ensure the coil pack and injector connectors are seated. Those things can be brittle and wind up not connecting due to the retention clip breaking in the connector. I've been told rather than repairing the connector, simply zip tie them to the coil/injector.
And if you were doing the nickel anti-seize on the 'hood' (between the threads and the electrodes), be sure you didn't get any on the open end. That'll cause misfire and quick, and might even ruin the plug and/or coil.
You might disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, and while that's happening, clean the throttle body and MAF with proper cleaners and techniques. Reattach battery when done. Turn car on, but do not start, and depress throttle pedal all the way to the floor over a period of about 4 seconds, then release. Then start and if it all works right now, go drive in normal traffic for 10 miles to relearn the computer. If not, then continue diagnosin', I suppose.
Oh yeah... you sure your battery is up to snuff? Semi-dead batteries have been known to do wonky stuff....
All I got. You might need a scan tool if none of that works to find out what the car might think is wrong. There's codes that'll set/trend but not set the money light.
Good luck! Hope that helps!
Last edited by houtex; Nov 6, 2019 at 09:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: April 23, 2019
Posts: 9
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Important: Regarding the gap, bear in mind, the correct dealer/oem/Motorcraft/Autolite plugs are full strap plugs, not half strap (hook) so the gaps are *preset and should not be messed with.* DO NOT REGAP THEM. If you bought another brand what was a 'normal' hook type, then you'd gap them. That said, you can use a feeler gauge or micrometers to check the gap is *correct* (and therefore if one isn't replace it), but otherwise, don't try to bend them, you'll mess them up. Ok, that's outta the way...
Sounds like a dead coil pack/plug.
Are you sure the plugs are all tightened correctly? Check the manual regarding, finger tight and then just a little more is usually all it takes. And they can 'blow out', so... just listen and see if that's the issue.
You can disconnect a coil pack's connector to see if the engine idle changes. If it does, that coil pack/plug is working. If it doesn't you've found. One at a time. Unless you can get a hold of a scan tool that'll say 'misfire cylinder x', then you can attack that cylinder directly. And if so, you can just swap a coil pack, say 1 to 2 and vice versa, to see if the misfire goes to the other cylinder. That'll find if the coil pack/plug is bad or the wiring on the indicated cylinder at least.
Also, be sure to ensure the coil pack and injector connectors are seated. Those things can be brittle and wind up not connecting due to the retention clip breaking in the connector. I've been told rather than repairing the connector, simply zip tie them to the coil/injector.
And if you were doing the nickel anti-seize on the 'hood' (between the threads and the electrodes), be sure you didn't get any on the open end. That'll cause misfire and quick, and might even ruin the plug and/or coil.
You might disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, and while that's happening, clean the throttle body and MAF with proper cleaners and techniques. Reattach battery when done. Turn car on, but do not start, and depress throttle pedal all the way to the floor over a period of about 4 seconds, then release. Then start and if it all works right now, go drive in normal traffic for 10 miles to relearn the computer. If not, then continue diagnosin', I suppose.
Oh yeah... you sure your battery is up to snuff? Semi-dead batteries have been known to do wonky stuff....
All I got. You might need a scan tool if none of that works to find out what the car might think is wrong. There's codes that'll set/trend but not set the money light.
Good luck! Hope that helps!
Sounds like a dead coil pack/plug.
Are you sure the plugs are all tightened correctly? Check the manual regarding, finger tight and then just a little more is usually all it takes. And they can 'blow out', so... just listen and see if that's the issue.
You can disconnect a coil pack's connector to see if the engine idle changes. If it does, that coil pack/plug is working. If it doesn't you've found. One at a time. Unless you can get a hold of a scan tool that'll say 'misfire cylinder x', then you can attack that cylinder directly. And if so, you can just swap a coil pack, say 1 to 2 and vice versa, to see if the misfire goes to the other cylinder. That'll find if the coil pack/plug is bad or the wiring on the indicated cylinder at least.
Also, be sure to ensure the coil pack and injector connectors are seated. Those things can be brittle and wind up not connecting due to the retention clip breaking in the connector. I've been told rather than repairing the connector, simply zip tie them to the coil/injector.
And if you were doing the nickel anti-seize on the 'hood' (between the threads and the electrodes), be sure you didn't get any on the open end. That'll cause misfire and quick, and might even ruin the plug and/or coil.
You might disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, and while that's happening, clean the throttle body and MAF with proper cleaners and techniques. Reattach battery when done. Turn car on, but do not start, and depress throttle pedal all the way to the floor over a period of about 4 seconds, then release. Then start and if it all works right now, go drive in normal traffic for 10 miles to relearn the computer. If not, then continue diagnosin', I suppose.
Oh yeah... you sure your battery is up to snuff? Semi-dead batteries have been known to do wonky stuff....
All I got. You might need a scan tool if none of that works to find out what the car might think is wrong. There's codes that'll set/trend but not set the money light.
Good luck! Hope that helps!
I only changed the Spark plugs. its either dead spark plug or vacuum leak happen some how. as am sure i didnt move anything else and before i changed the spark plugs everything was fine. either this or maybe the Tune? i have stock car with stuck tune. i removed the coil one by one and the engine noise changed after each one. so assuming this check is pass. i also zip tied the injectors wire as you advice already. you right its easy to break and lose.
I cleaned MAF and TB already nothing changed also Battery is changed 3 months ago. its driving me crazy that its not throw any Check engine alarm yet. otherwise it will be easy for me to tell.
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Joined: April 23, 2019
Posts: 9
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Hi everyone,
So i did the thing i hate and dropped my car on the dealer. after couple of days he called me today and said i have to change the Coils pack and the harness wires! ..and then if this didn't work then i have to change the main ECU???
i told him what??? cant you guys see if the Coil has some issues or not without changing it? they want to cost me around 700$ whether this help or not and for sure the same will be for the wires. this stealing!!
am going to take the car from them tomorrow, but is there is any way to check if the coil is weak or the harness is bad? am an IT not cars tech but i have little experience with my car.
So i did the thing i hate and dropped my car on the dealer. after couple of days he called me today and said i have to change the Coils pack and the harness wires! ..and then if this didn't work then i have to change the main ECU???
i told him what??? cant you guys see if the Coil has some issues or not without changing it? they want to cost me around 700$ whether this help or not and for sure the same will be for the wires. this stealing!!
am going to take the car from them tomorrow, but is there is any way to check if the coil is weak or the harness is bad? am an IT not cars tech but i have little experience with my car.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
First things first... it's bothering me that after a spark plug change this is happening. Coil shouldn't lightswitch like that, normally, and the plugs should have come ready to go. If it's a connector, it'll be easy, see below. Ditto coil, ditto plug, just have to figure it out.
But on the plugs, do these tests below, yes, but if you find the one, pull it and be sure you didn't extend the nickel anti-seize (you did use that on the plugs, yes?) past the hole in the strap. In Yellow's post/pic above, where the strap and electrode are, that has to be *CLEAN* or it'll screw up the spark.
Ok, here we go. Check coil wire connectors/coils/plugs:
Start engine.
Unplug one coil.
Did idle change?
-- Yes? Then that coil/plug is good. Plug it back in and go to next coil, repeating for all 8 cylinders.
-- No? Then that coil/plug is bad.
Once you find the coil(s)/plug(s) that's giving you issues, you can examine what it is. Connector, coil, plug. One of the three is *likely*, but not guaranteed. It could be the harness elsewhere. It could be the ECU.
The connector will be what it will be. If it can be seated firmly and correctly, and won't come back off, then it's probably not it.
So to check which it is between the coil/plug, just get one plug and one coil. Put the coil on first. Does it fix it? Yay. Done. Save or return the plug.
If it doesn't, then swap the plug, using the old coil. Fixed? Yay, save/return the coil.
No? New coil on now. Fixed? Yay, drive happy.
No? Bite the bullet, pay the man. There's only so far. I'd ship mine to Eric O. of South Main Auto, but it's a bit far...
Bit of an example for what he can do with wiring and stuff. It shows what's involved past the parts cannon we're firing here a little bit. There's many more he does, you gotta look for 'em, but there's rodent chewed wires, fire burned wires, corrosion wires, etc, ad nauseam... including, yes, a bad ECU here and there. He's really great at showin' you what might have to go on. If you have the time, worth watchin'. And there's others out there, but Eric's a dang good car wizard for this exact kind of stuff.
---
BTW, I'm in IT too. Doesn't mean you can't learn and do things to/with/for your car! Most of the things you see below on her are by my own hands. Even mounted/balanced the tires (I had access to the machines ) What you don't see there is a new clutch done in a garage on jack stands, and a couple of other maintenance items like brakes and what not. If I can do it, you can do it! I believe in ya.
Hope that helps some, good luck, I hope it's just a bad coil!
But on the plugs, do these tests below, yes, but if you find the one, pull it and be sure you didn't extend the nickel anti-seize (you did use that on the plugs, yes?) past the hole in the strap. In Yellow's post/pic above, where the strap and electrode are, that has to be *CLEAN* or it'll screw up the spark.
Ok, here we go. Check coil wire connectors/coils/plugs:
Start engine.
Unplug one coil.
Did idle change?
-- Yes? Then that coil/plug is good. Plug it back in and go to next coil, repeating for all 8 cylinders.
-- No? Then that coil/plug is bad.
Once you find the coil(s)/plug(s) that's giving you issues, you can examine what it is. Connector, coil, plug. One of the three is *likely*, but not guaranteed. It could be the harness elsewhere. It could be the ECU.
The connector will be what it will be. If it can be seated firmly and correctly, and won't come back off, then it's probably not it.
So to check which it is between the coil/plug, just get one plug and one coil. Put the coil on first. Does it fix it? Yay. Done. Save or return the plug.
If it doesn't, then swap the plug, using the old coil. Fixed? Yay, save/return the coil.
No? New coil on now. Fixed? Yay, drive happy.
No? Bite the bullet, pay the man. There's only so far. I'd ship mine to Eric O. of South Main Auto, but it's a bit far...
Bit of an example for what he can do with wiring and stuff. It shows what's involved past the parts cannon we're firing here a little bit. There's many more he does, you gotta look for 'em, but there's rodent chewed wires, fire burned wires, corrosion wires, etc, ad nauseam... including, yes, a bad ECU here and there. He's really great at showin' you what might have to go on. If you have the time, worth watchin'. And there's others out there, but Eric's a dang good car wizard for this exact kind of stuff.
---
BTW, I'm in IT too. Doesn't mean you can't learn and do things to/with/for your car! Most of the things you see below on her are by my own hands. Even mounted/balanced the tires (I had access to the machines
) What you don't see there is a new clutch done in a garage on jack stands, and a couple of other maintenance items like brakes and what not. If I can do it, you can do it! I believe in ya. Hope that helps some, good luck, I hope it's just a bad coil!
Last edited by houtex; Nov 13, 2019 at 07:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: April 23, 2019
Posts: 9
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First things first... it's bothering me that after a spark plug change this is happening. Coil shouldn't lightswitch like that, normally, and the plugs should have come ready to go. If it's a connector, it'll be easy, see below. Ditto coil, ditto plug, just have to figure it out.
But on the plugs, do these tests below, yes, but if you find the one, pull it and be sure you didn't extend the nickel anti-seize (you did use that on the plugs, yes?) past the hole in the strap. In Yellow's post/pic above, where the strap and electrode are, that has to be *CLEAN* or it'll screw up the spark.
Ok, here we go. Check coil wire connectors/coils/plugs:
Start engine.
Unplug one coil.
Did idle change?
-- Yes? Then that coil/plug is good. Plug it back in and go to next coil, repeating for all 8 cylinders.
-- No? Then that coil/plug is bad.
Once you find the coil(s)/plug(s) that's giving you issues, you can examine what it is. Connector, coil, plug. One of the three is *likely*, but not guaranteed. It could be the harness elsewhere. It could be the ECU.
The connector will be what it will be. If it can be seated firmly and correctly, and won't come back off, then it's probably not it.
So to check which it is between the coil/plug, just get one plug and one coil. Put the coil on first. Does it fix it? Yay. Done. Save or return the plug.
If it doesn't, then swap the plug, using the old coil. Fixed? Yay, save/return the coil.
No? New coil on now. Fixed? Yay, drive happy.
No? Bite the bullet, pay the man. There's only so far. I'd ship mine to Eric O. of South Main Auto, but it's a bit far...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIUxF3iAIwo
Bit of an example for what he can do with wiring and stuff. It shows what's involved past the parts cannon we're firing here a little bit. There's many more he does, you gotta look for 'em, but there's rodent chewed wires, fire burned wires, corrosion wires, etc, ad nauseam... including, yes, a bad ECU here and there. He's really great at showin' you what might have to go on. If you have the time, worth watchin'. And there's others out there, but Eric's a dang good car wizard for this exact kind of stuff.
---
BTW, I'm in IT too. Doesn't mean you can't learn and do things to/with/for your car! Most of the things you see below on her are by my own hands. Even mounted/balanced the tires (I had access to the machines ) What you don't see there is a new clutch done in a garage on jack stands, and a couple of other maintenance items like brakes and what not. If I can do it, you can do it! I believe in ya.
Hope that helps some, good luck, I hope it's just a bad coil!
But on the plugs, do these tests below, yes, but if you find the one, pull it and be sure you didn't extend the nickel anti-seize (you did use that on the plugs, yes?) past the hole in the strap. In Yellow's post/pic above, where the strap and electrode are, that has to be *CLEAN* or it'll screw up the spark.
Ok, here we go. Check coil wire connectors/coils/plugs:
Start engine.
Unplug one coil.
Did idle change?
-- Yes? Then that coil/plug is good. Plug it back in and go to next coil, repeating for all 8 cylinders.
-- No? Then that coil/plug is bad.
Once you find the coil(s)/plug(s) that's giving you issues, you can examine what it is. Connector, coil, plug. One of the three is *likely*, but not guaranteed. It could be the harness elsewhere. It could be the ECU.
The connector will be what it will be. If it can be seated firmly and correctly, and won't come back off, then it's probably not it.
So to check which it is between the coil/plug, just get one plug and one coil. Put the coil on first. Does it fix it? Yay. Done. Save or return the plug.
If it doesn't, then swap the plug, using the old coil. Fixed? Yay, save/return the coil.
No? New coil on now. Fixed? Yay, drive happy.
No? Bite the bullet, pay the man. There's only so far. I'd ship mine to Eric O. of South Main Auto, but it's a bit far...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIUxF3iAIwo
Bit of an example for what he can do with wiring and stuff. It shows what's involved past the parts cannon we're firing here a little bit. There's many more he does, you gotta look for 'em, but there's rodent chewed wires, fire burned wires, corrosion wires, etc, ad nauseam... including, yes, a bad ECU here and there. He's really great at showin' you what might have to go on. If you have the time, worth watchin'. And there's others out there, but Eric's a dang good car wizard for this exact kind of stuff.
---
BTW, I'm in IT too. Doesn't mean you can't learn and do things to/with/for your car! Most of the things you see below on her are by my own hands. Even mounted/balanced the tires (I had access to the machines
) What you don't see there is a new clutch done in a garage on jack stands, and a couple of other maintenance items like brakes and what not. If I can do it, you can do it! I believe in ya. Hope that helps some, good luck, I hope it's just a bad coil!
. seems we work on the same field 
ok here what i did, i removed the Coil wire and nothing changed. i moved to all other Coils did the same and the engine noise changed! so i said this is could be the Coil but i decided to switched the Coil to another location and when i removed the wire the engine noise changed directly. so this is not Coil issue otherwise it should behave like before.
I brought a a voltmeter to check the power on the wires where this issue happen and compare it with another coil wire. there is power and electricity. reads are almost on all Coils identical ( coil harness Volts should be what? ) .i checked the reads also on the Injector above the Coil and the read is around 13V same of the others.
Since the wire give power and the Coil function based on my test its : either now the Injector ( dirt maybe?) or the Spark plug dead out of the box!
what do you think ? sorry if i bother you with my silly issue man.
Last edited by shadad; Nov 14, 2019 at 02:39 AM.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
It ain't silly if the car ain't runnin' right. Don't you worry about it. We're all here to help.
I'm a little confused. Problem coil shows up because removal of coil wire and nothing changed. All others had change when unplugged.
You then swapped the problem coil elsewhere with one of the non-problem coils.
The problem did NOT move with the coil. The 'problem' coil now works on the new location. And... I think I can infer that the not-problem coil has no effect on the now-problem cylinder? Aka, unplug it and it doesn't do anything?
If that's correct, you've either still got a wiring harness to the coil issue, a spark plug issue, or yes, possibly injector... or... well...
I'm going with spark plug. Swap it like you did the coil. Or just go get one and swap it. Humans make 'em, y'know, and I ain't met the perfect human yet.
It's still bothering me it's only after a spark plug swap... And we're down to plug, injector (by the way, the same 'unplug/plug' trick can be used to see if those have any effect) and then... well, you don't want to know 'and then'. Let's hope it's not 'and then', 'cause that's gettin' not-cheap alla sudden...
/Happy thoughts, houtex... happy thoughts... Ommmm.....
//Omninously wonders about the compression in that cylinder...
///This IS a 'triton-ish' 3v... Cam followers? Are we lookin' at takin' the valve cover off and checkin' those...?
////Haaayy... don't suppose the spark plug is in there right... heard about these 'blow outs'...
/////Randomized thoughts happen like this...
//////testing... one two... now batting for the Dodgers... Kirk... GIBSON... *crowd goes wild*...
I'm a little confused. Problem coil shows up because removal of coil wire and nothing changed. All others had change when unplugged.
You then swapped the problem coil elsewhere with one of the non-problem coils.
The problem did NOT move with the coil. The 'problem' coil now works on the new location. And... I think I can infer that the not-problem coil has no effect on the now-problem cylinder? Aka, unplug it and it doesn't do anything?
If that's correct, you've either still got a wiring harness to the coil issue, a spark plug issue, or yes, possibly injector... or... well...
I'm going with spark plug. Swap it like you did the coil. Or just go get one and swap it. Humans make 'em, y'know, and I ain't met the perfect human yet.
It's still bothering me it's only after a spark plug swap... And we're down to plug, injector (by the way, the same 'unplug/plug' trick can be used to see if those have any effect) and then... well, you don't want to know 'and then'. Let's hope it's not 'and then', 'cause that's gettin' not-cheap alla sudden...
/Happy thoughts, houtex... happy thoughts... Ommmm.....
//Omninously wonders about the compression in that cylinder...
///This IS a 'triton-ish' 3v... Cam followers? Are we lookin' at takin' the valve cover off and checkin' those...?
////Haaayy... don't suppose the spark plug is in there right... heard about these 'blow outs'...
/////Randomized thoughts happen like this...
//////testing... one two... now batting for the Dodgers... Kirk... GIBSON... *crowd goes wild*...
Last edited by houtex; Nov 14, 2019 at 10:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: April 23, 2019
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
It ain't silly if the car ain't runnin' right. Don't you worry about it. We're all here to help.
I'm a little confused. Problem coil shows up because removal of coil wire and nothing changed. All others had change when unplugged.
You then swapped the problem coil elsewhere with one of the non-problem coils.
The problem did NOT move with the coil. The 'problem' coil now works on the new location. And... I think I can infer that the not-problem coil has no effect on the now-problem cylinder? Aka, unplug it and it doesn't do anything?
If that's correct, you've either still got a wiring harness to the coil issue, a spark plug issue, or yes, possibly injector... or... well...
I'm going with spark plug. Swap it like you did the coil. Or just go get one and swap it. Humans make 'em, y'know, and I ain't met the perfect human yet.
It's still bothering me it's only after a spark plug swap... And we're down to plug, injector (by the way, the same 'unplug/plug' trick can be used to see if those have any effect) and then... well, you don't want to know 'and then'. Let's hope it's not 'and then', 'cause that's gettin' not-cheap alla sudden...
/Happy thoughts, houtex... happy thoughts... Ommmm.....
//Omninously wonders about the compression in that cylinder...
///This IS a 'triton-ish' 3v... Cam followers? Are we lookin' at takin' the valve cover off and checkin' those...?
////Haaayy... don't suppose the spark plug is in there right... heard about these 'blow outs'...
/////Randomized thoughts happen like this...
//////testing... one two... now batting for the Dodgers... Kirk... GIBSON... *crowd goes wild*...
I'm a little confused. Problem coil shows up because removal of coil wire and nothing changed. All others had change when unplugged.
You then swapped the problem coil elsewhere with one of the non-problem coils.
The problem did NOT move with the coil. The 'problem' coil now works on the new location. And... I think I can infer that the not-problem coil has no effect on the now-problem cylinder? Aka, unplug it and it doesn't do anything?
If that's correct, you've either still got a wiring harness to the coil issue, a spark plug issue, or yes, possibly injector... or... well...
I'm going with spark plug. Swap it like you did the coil. Or just go get one and swap it. Humans make 'em, y'know, and I ain't met the perfect human yet.
It's still bothering me it's only after a spark plug swap... And we're down to plug, injector (by the way, the same 'unplug/plug' trick can be used to see if those have any effect) and then... well, you don't want to know 'and then'. Let's hope it's not 'and then', 'cause that's gettin' not-cheap alla sudden...
/Happy thoughts, houtex... happy thoughts... Ommmm.....
//Omninously wonders about the compression in that cylinder...
///This IS a 'triton-ish' 3v... Cam followers? Are we lookin' at takin' the valve cover off and checkin' those...?
////Haaayy... don't suppose the spark plug is in there right... heard about these 'blow outs'...
/////Randomized thoughts happen like this...
//////testing... one two... now batting for the Dodgers... Kirk... GIBSON... *crowd goes wild*...
good NEWS! finally my issue fixed.
I did like what you advice last time. i switched this time the spark plug and baam! the place where is put it it didn't worked while the original place work ( injector, Coil and spark plug ). os it was the **** spark plug. i just couldn't removed it cause i don't have the right tool to test it. i did the testing first time but i was NEVER doubt that the part i bought from Ford OEM it might come eventually dead out of the box! I bought another spark plug, replaced the new faulty one and now it work like 300%. i even get rid of the previous hesitation when i cruse @ 60.
ok i admit, switching part of the spark plug was not floating my mind first time when i was troubleshooting the issue even tho its simple like switching the light bulb. i did crazy things like changing the alternator, AC compressor , installing my car UDP, installing Drive shaft and fixing my electronic things, but for Ford dealer on my country to not find this issue is a major disappointing for me. they have the tools and they jumped to the Coils then wires then ECU? really? they wanted me to pay for them when they use it even if that didn't fix the issue? am really serious guys, i have even the final bill where i rejected Ford suggested work. am considering reporting this to Ford US to fix this. this is not good.
Thank you guys for spending the time to assist me, thanks for houtex again, you saved my life
. if you are considering to visit my country one day, then let me know. its small one but pack lot of activities actions. PM me i will take care of you Thanks everyone.
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