Rear Suspension Noise After Lowering
#1
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: October 24, 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear Suspension Noise After Lowering
Could use some help. I have recently had my 2008 GT lowered, professionally for $900 including the Eibach pro kit. I'm hearing this crappy creaking sound when I'm pulling out of my driveway or turning slowly such as around parking lots and this started the day after installation. It is definitely coming from the right rear and it is pretty irritating and noticeable.
Needless to say, I took it back to the shop and they could not find anything . In searching the posts, I'm seeing some old threads but not sure if this is identical to the issues that I'm having. I did find one where it mentioned it could be a panhard issue. I will look into that, but was just curious if anyone had similar issues and if there were any other potential issues.
Needless to say, I took it back to the shop and they could not find anything . In searching the posts, I'm seeing some old threads but not sure if this is identical to the issues that I'm having. I did find one where it mentioned it could be a panhard issue. I will look into that, but was just curious if anyone had similar issues and if there were any other potential issues.
#3
The noise you are hearing I learned to live with. I also have the Eibach pro kit, but with the ford blue paint, aka FRPP K Springs. It is the suspension rocking back when you put the car under initial load. Panhard bar, brace, LCA or UCA will not solve it, I know, I tried. I checked the parking brake cable, the gas lines, etc. Nothing rubbing.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#4
Cobra Member
Join Date: August 5, 2008
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can you duplicate it by bouncing the car up and down? Or only when driving?
$900 is a lot for lowering (even if 'professionally' done) so I assume you got shocks with the springs? Could you have a bad R rear one?
As the Rev mentioned, other options are creaking from the bushings of the UCA, LCA, panhard bar. I doubt they touched any of those during install, so may just be it's in a slightly different position now and not well enough greased any more. Pounding each out and greasing the bushing well might help, but might not...
$900 is a lot for lowering (even if 'professionally' done) so I assume you got shocks with the springs? Could you have a bad R rear one?
As the Rev mentioned, other options are creaking from the bushings of the UCA, LCA, panhard bar. I doubt they touched any of those during install, so may just be it's in a slightly different position now and not well enough greased any more. Pounding each out and greasing the bushing well might help, but might not...
#5
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: October 24, 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can you duplicate it by bouncing the car up and down? Or only when driving?
$900 is a lot for lowering (even if 'professionally' done) so I assume you got shocks with the springs? Could you have a bad R rear one?
As the Rev mentioned, other options are creaking from the bushings of the UCA, LCA, panhard bar. I doubt they touched any of those during install, so may just be it's in a slightly different position now and not well enough greased any more. Pounding each out and greasing the bushing well might help, but might not...
$900 is a lot for lowering (even if 'professionally' done) so I assume you got shocks with the springs? Could you have a bad R rear one?
As the Rev mentioned, other options are creaking from the bushings of the UCA, LCA, panhard bar. I doubt they touched any of those during install, so may just be it's in a slightly different position now and not well enough greased any more. Pounding each out and greasing the bushing well might help, but might not...
#6
legacy Tms Member
pick up a cheep mechanics stethoscope(a VERY handy/cheep tool to have!), listen to each bushing while someone bounces the car a bit-dont get crunched
one will be very loud compared the rest- might just try loosening the bolt and retightening it- someone else can chime in if it could affect alignments, but i think these are simply bolts in round holes, no cams...anyway, if the center insert is 'twisting' the rubber due to lowering, loosening / retightening it should allow it to relax to its new 'normal' position, minimizing stretching of the bushing...just a thought...
Tim
one will be very loud compared the rest- might just try loosening the bolt and retightening it- someone else can chime in if it could affect alignments, but i think these are simply bolts in round holes, no cams...anyway, if the center insert is 'twisting' the rubber due to lowering, loosening / retightening it should allow it to relax to its new 'normal' position, minimizing stretching of the bushing...just a thought...
Tim
#8
legacy Tms Member
my old mark VII had a steering wheel 'tick' the car actually would wander very slightly about every half second- only at highway speeds... if you let go of the wheel the car would go straight but the steering wheel would constantly twitch back and forth...new rack took care of that for a little while...
#9
i had a creak when I would pull out of my driveway and come off the lip of the driveway at an angle.
It ended up being my sway bars. I re-greased the bushings on the front and rear and no more creak.
I have steedas front and rear, no nipple.
It ended up being my sway bars. I re-greased the bushings on the front and rear and no more creak.
I have steedas front and rear, no nipple.
#10
Cobra Member
5 bucks says its your exhaust. Raise the car up and look at the routing on your exhaust. Push up on it and see if it hits the body. If it does, loosen and re-adjust the angle so that it wont hit when you compress the suspension.
#11
Legacy TMS Member
On a slightly different note, I had a problem with creaking on some old LCAs I installed. After replacing them with a urethane bushing at the body side and a sphererical bearing on the axle side, I made sure to really lube the urethane bushing ends as well as making sure both ends were greased well. What a difference!
#13
Legacy TMS Member
The old LCAs would bind pretty easily, so IMO, the ride and handling have improved with the current setup. I made sure everything was lubed really good this time as well so it may be a + + effect since the spherical bearings at the axle allow the suspension to articulate better and the urethane bushings are better lubed this time preventing them from binding as easily.
#14
I experienced clank/clunk from the rear after I lowered my car. It didn’t occur until 4k had passed on the ODM. The culprit was the Pan Hard bar polyurethane bushings. Hopefully your PH bar has grease fittings, some don’t. Also, if you did not replace the bump stops you may be riding on them depending on how far you lowered. I ended up cutting a bit off my sock OEM’s as I was close leaving little travel room. Now, all is well.
BTW if you are going to grease your own PH bar below are a few suggestions after hours of research and trail an error for things you’ll need.
I have found Synco/Superlube 41150 Synthetic Multipurpose Grease (Amazon.com) to meet all the requirements of polyurethane bushings. So far, PH bar very quit.
If your PH bar does have grease fittings the one on the driver’s side may be difficult to get at with the normally supplied grease gun fitting end. So make sure you check because my 2006 has a bar right below the fitting. I had to get a Thexton Right Angle Grease Coupler ((Amazon.com)) and it was able to reach and lube the drivers while the car was on the ground. You’ll need to get the car in the air for the passenger side.
Lastly, you’ll have to inspect the bushings; I tried to over tighten the bolts on the PH bar to factory torque specs at the end of a long day lowering the car. The supplied instructions were in the realm of 100lbs less. Note to self, next time take two days to lower the car… ;-)
Good luck and post back your results.
BTW if you are going to grease your own PH bar below are a few suggestions after hours of research and trail an error for things you’ll need.
I have found Synco/Superlube 41150 Synthetic Multipurpose Grease (Amazon.com) to meet all the requirements of polyurethane bushings. So far, PH bar very quit.
If your PH bar does have grease fittings the one on the driver’s side may be difficult to get at with the normally supplied grease gun fitting end. So make sure you check because my 2006 has a bar right below the fitting. I had to get a Thexton Right Angle Grease Coupler ((Amazon.com)) and it was able to reach and lube the drivers while the car was on the ground. You’ll need to get the car in the air for the passenger side.
Lastly, you’ll have to inspect the bushings; I tried to over tighten the bolts on the PH bar to factory torque specs at the end of a long day lowering the car. The supplied instructions were in the realm of 100lbs less. Note to self, next time take two days to lower the car… ;-)
Good luck and post back your results.
#15
GT Member
Join Date: September 25, 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive heard a similar noise from my left rear side only on certain turns or going up my driveway as well. I have the full eibach pro kit w/ shocks, panhard bar, and sway bars. I will be taking it to the shop after the holiday to see if i can get this fixed. Its annoying as ****. Let me know your findings
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Detroit Steel
2015 - 2023 MUSTANG
0
7/28/15 12:53 PM
Big-D
Suspension, Brakes, and Tire Tech
1
7/27/15 11:24 AM