rear brakes
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rear brakes
hey after my rear brakes decided to finally go out an in the process of installing the new brakes.. how many here change their brakes? did you have to twist the cylinder back up or did you just prise it?
according to ford your suppose to apply pressure and twist it all the way back up... without that tool it was a job!
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I believe you have to twist it and push it in. Simply pushing the cylinder in will damage it. Why did your rear brakes go out? Usually those will last for a loooong time, much longer than fronts.
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I had the little universal cube, brake piston tool (the one with different sized tabs and configurations on each side) from the local auto parts store.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
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You do have to twist, you can usually "rent" the tool for free at the local parts store. How many miles do you have that you went through rear brakes already?
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I had the little universal cube, brake piston tool (the one with different sized tabs and configurations on each side) from the local auto parts store.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
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Are they mostly highway miles or city miles? I have almost 47K miles on my brakes, but they are mostly highway miles. I just looked at them a week ago when I replaced the tires and even the fronts looked very good. I think I will get 75K out of them.
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Man, you should get near 100k out of stock pads these days. Do you two foot? Running the piston back into the caliper without the proper tool is near impossible without damaging the caliper. You'll be amazed how simple it is with the correct tool.
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hmm... we'll i drive at high speeds on hwy usually in a hurry... he company i work for doesn't reimburse for gas or wear/tear... it is a mix between city/highway... i live in the country so alot of twisty curves that are down hill..
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So, you are very hard on brakes...got it. You still never answered how many miles are on the brakes though. It really doesn't matter, I'm just curious. Brakes are not hard or expensive to do, so it's not really a big problem like a clutch is.
#12
I had the little universal cube, brake piston tool (the one with different sized tabs and configurations on each side) from the local auto parts store.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
I found a side that had similar sized tabs, but it had 4 tabs on this particular side, so I grinded off 2 of them so that I could use the tool.
It worked fine after that.
At 25K on my rear brakes, both rotors are showing signs of some pretty bad groves on the inner braking surface, the side of the rotor you can not see due to the dust shield.
Also, one other tip. Once the rear rotors wear down a bit, the raised lip on the outer edge makes it difficult to slide the calpier off the rotor. I'd suggest checking the rear rotors earlier than later and replace them or have them turned to remove the "lip"
#13
Wow, you must be tough on brakes. My 97 Ranger still has the original rear brakes with 138k on them. Granted, they're drums, not disc, but I hope for the same durabililty with my stang.
#14
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yea i'm rough on them...but like i said... the speed limit on the way home is 45 due to all the curves and such and i live 25mins from the nearest gas station so i'm usually speeding to town pressing the brakes pretty hard on the curve and speeding back up to about 60...
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