Reading a book on how to properly break-in a car.
#22
I did the old fashioned "break-in" proceedure. I had the oil changed after my test drive off of the car hauler (100 mi - car came modded from aftermarket source). I then had the oil changed and analyzed at 1,000 miles. The first 1,000 miles I never really went above 3500 RPM. I varied my speed and did not take it on a Highway (55 MPH or above) until I had about 685 miles on the ODO. I kept having the oil changed and analyzed (2500mi, 5,000mi, 9500mi, 12,500mi) and the only wear metals I found were Copper which is simply the oil cooler leaching some residual copper during break-in. I have been doing the same with my wife's 06 GT Vert and she has the same results, nothing but a little Copper.
So, in my **** retentive, overcautious opinion...Drive it like you stole it!
So, in my **** retentive, overcautious opinion...Drive it like you stole it!
#23
That is very interesting...I get my Mustang soon and thought about "Drive it like you stole it. The only problem is the SNOW....That really ????me off...I really wanted my Mustang before the snow hit...So now I am not sure what to do...
#25
after you get your car head south till you hit some good weather ....... then beat that thang
#26
Definitely drive normally, accellerate briskly through the gears, etc.
I think clutch/gear train/brake break-in are more particular than the engine at this point. Because of existing cat tech, emissions concerns, plateau honing of the cylinders, the engine is doing very little to no wearing in when new. The rings do any seating they'll ever do in the first 20 minutes of operation. I have read that around 80% of ring wear (until the point of failure) occurs in this window, this in a white paper compiled on cylinder ring lubrication...
Change the oil after 50 miles or so to get the machining dust out. I don't know enough about how they clean up the castings, particularly the block. It's tough.
I think clutch/gear train/brake break-in are more particular than the engine at this point. Because of existing cat tech, emissions concerns, plateau honing of the cylinders, the engine is doing very little to no wearing in when new. The rings do any seating they'll ever do in the first 20 minutes of operation. I have read that around 80% of ring wear (until the point of failure) occurs in this window, this in a white paper compiled on cylinder ring lubrication...
Change the oil after 50 miles or so to get the machining dust out. I don't know enough about how they clean up the castings, particularly the block. It's tough.
#27
#28
Does this account fot the Salesmen and other test drives that may have taken place before you laid eyes on it if you bought it off the lot?
Not directed at anyone in particular just general comment.
I ordered my car and the Odometer still showed 6.8 miles when I got it the same day it came off the truck...
My wifes car we bought off the lot and it had 65 miles on it...
Not directed at anyone in particular just general comment.
I ordered my car and the Odometer still showed 6.8 miles when I got it the same day it came off the truck...
My wifes car we bought off the lot and it had 65 miles on it...
As for my breakin' a car in, I'm pretty sure there was a post on this somewhere, and there were people saying to drive it hard from the get-go and people taking it easy for the 1st 1000 miles. I would say don't be too hard on it, especially in the first 200-500 mi. My brother had the bottom end rebuilt in his BMW 325 and the shop that did it told him not to take it over 50 mph for the first 500 miles and be very gentle with it for that period, which is pretty typical. Plus whenever you get new brake parts, they typically tell you to avoid hard stops for the first 500 or so. If you didn't, for example, you're new brake pads might glaze up which would definitely cost you braking ability.
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