Pull to one side while braking?
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Pull to one side while braking?
While braking, I noticed the Stang pulling to one side. I haven't driven it for awhile so I was wondering if it was just the rust on the brake rotors (which should have been totally cleared from normal braking) or if I need to worry about the parking brakes.
Is this a common problem with S197s? I know it is common on Crown Vics in the rain.
Is this a common problem with S197s? I know it is common on Crown Vics in the rain.
#3
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I just noticed for the first time yesterday for a short time they pulled to the right. It only lasted for one short trip in town one way and then it was fine. I know in my case it was not parking break related because it was coming from the front brakes.
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Rotor rust comes off pretty quickly because they are in constant contact.
Checked tire pressures?
Pads are not worn out?
If you have caster differential side to side (factory set up), that will have some influence. A performance alignment would be symmetrical caster and camber.
Was the road you were on very flat or crowned?
Checked tire pressures?
Pads are not worn out?
If you have caster differential side to side (factory set up), that will have some influence. A performance alignment would be symmetrical caster and camber.
Was the road you were on very flat or crowned?
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Tire pressure was even across the board. Rotors and pads are brand new. The wheel alignment was done at the factory. The road was very flat and the Stang normally never pulled to one side during hard braking. It may have something to do with storing the car in the garage for the winter?
#10
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Check Your Rear Rotors For Wear
I had a similar issue. My Stang would intermitently pull to the right when stopping. It wasn't uncontrolable, but you could feel it in the steering wheel ever so lightly.
Well, I took her into work cause the rear caliper would lock when it the temps went to freezing. I was under the assumption it was the frozen brake cable TSB. So, had our service dept take a look and turns out my right rear caliper was sticking but the cables and linkage were fine.
The sticking caliper was bad enough that it toasted my rear pads, rotor and cooked the brake fluid. It had nothing to do with the TSB at all -- I just had a bad caliper on the right side. After the caliper and rotor were replaced my stang stops like normal again.
My suggestion is to check your rear rotors for abnormal wear marks and see if your pad thickness is the same side to side. Also, check the color of your brake fluid. If it isn't clear pee yellow then you fluid is getting cooked.
Oh, this was covered by warranty as it was a faulty part. Hope it isn't a common issue.
Well, I took her into work cause the rear caliper would lock when it the temps went to freezing. I was under the assumption it was the frozen brake cable TSB. So, had our service dept take a look and turns out my right rear caliper was sticking but the cables and linkage were fine.
The sticking caliper was bad enough that it toasted my rear pads, rotor and cooked the brake fluid. It had nothing to do with the TSB at all -- I just had a bad caliper on the right side. After the caliper and rotor were replaced my stang stops like normal again.
My suggestion is to check your rear rotors for abnormal wear marks and see if your pad thickness is the same side to side. Also, check the color of your brake fluid. If it isn't clear pee yellow then you fluid is getting cooked.
Oh, this was covered by warranty as it was a faulty part. Hope it isn't a common issue.
#11
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First let me say it sounds like a sticking caliper piston. If Ford still uses phenolic caliper pistons then it is a given as these thing would stick all the time. The metal pistons were a little better but on the trucks I've seen the metal ones stick if they were not used for several weeks.
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How many miles on the car now, and how long did it sit? This may sound crazy, but having worked on BMWs so much, I've gotten used to flushing my brake fluid every two years. Since it's hydroscopic (absorbs water) it can lead to sludge and corrosion in the system. While it generally takes a long to really see the ill effects, it's cheap enough that it's no big deal. In fact, I actually use Ford Racing fluid in all of my street cars. You'll notice over time how the fluid tends to darken as it ages and takes on water.
I'm not sure if the Mustang has floating or fixed calipers (still waiting for my car!) but if they're floating there is a chance the slide pins might be a bit gummed up and not allowing the caliper to move freely as it should. Cleaning and lubing the caliper pins is the most overlooked part of a brake job bar none. I'm not sure why so many shops ignore it but it leads to poor performance and uneven pad wear.
I'm not sure if the Mustang has floating or fixed calipers (still waiting for my car!) but if they're floating there is a chance the slide pins might be a bit gummed up and not allowing the caliper to move freely as it should. Cleaning and lubing the caliper pins is the most overlooked part of a brake job bar none. I'm not sure why so many shops ignore it but it leads to poor performance and uneven pad wear.
#14
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something Ive often wondered about- when detailing what happens if tire cleaner(often has silicones) gets on the outside rotor face? I'm always careful with mine, but Ive seen folks spray crap on everything...I would sure think that could mess up brakes at least for a while...
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These are floating calipers. A hung up slider pin as suggested above may be the problem. They should be well lubricated and shaft seal in good condition (not torn or cracked). Might try checking that. I would suspect that before any piston hang.
#16
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metroplex - Everything I wrench on is at least 9 years old and has at least 140K miles on it. when it came to calipers I learned early on that even though I could rebuild them, I had a lot less aggrivation in just replacing them. I would balance out the frustration factor and time against the replacement cost and in the case of brake calipers replacement won out.
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Thanks for the confirmation that they're floating. (I'm still waiting for my car!) It's amazing how many cars I've touched over the years with pins that barely move or are completely frozen. When taking them apart to lube them it's pretty amazing how badly they can get scored and generally chewed up. Even if the seals do look OK, you still need to stay on top of lubing them. Your pads and rotors will last much longer as well!
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Does it happen all the time or on certain roads? I ask because a rutted road can definitely cause pulling issues, especially at low speeds and while braking. It's usually worse with big tires, but I see your car is 99.9% pure so I hadn't posted this before.
#20
yeah..it does it all the time. well not all the time. but it doesn't matter what road.