2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Perimeter Lighting / HID Question

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Old 8/19/08, 12:01 AM
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Perimeter Lighting / HID Question

I have just noticed that my headlights don't come on when I unlock the doors on my 2008 Shelby GT. Only the parking lights and interior lights come on. I Just got rid of a 2008 GT/CS and all of the lights came on when I unlocked it. However, the GT/CS did not have HID but the SGT does. Does anyone know if this is normal for the HID equipped cars, or is there a problem? I looked in the manual under the perimeter lighting section and there is no mention of anything being different between the two. Anyone else have have this problem (if it is not normal) ?


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Old 8/19/08, 01:19 AM
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Yes it is normal

Yes it is normal, My friends Shelby GT500 without HID lights turns on only it's headlights and parking lights not the driving lights when unlocked, My GT500 with HID headlights turns on only it's driving lights and parking lights and not the HID headlights when unlocked.

My 2008 Bullitt with HID headlights and no auxiliary lights just turns the parking lights when unlocked.

As I understand it, you shouldn't flash to pass with your HID's perhaps it is also not good for them to turn on just for the unlock?

Originally Posted by Rather B.Blown
I have just noticed that my headlights don't come on when I unlock the doors on my 2008 Shelby GT. Only the parking lights and interior lights come on. I Just got rid of a 2008 GT/CS and all of the lights came on when I unlocked it. However, the GT/CS did not have HID but the SGT does. Does anyone know if this is normal for the HID equipped cars, or is there a problem? I looked in the manual under the perimeter lighting section and there is no mention of anything being different between the two. Anyone else have have this problem (if it is not normal) ?


Thanks.
Old 8/19/08, 06:05 AM
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The HID capsules need at least 5 minutes of warmup time before you can shut them off. In addition, they need at least 5 minutes of cool-down before a hot restrike/restart. This is because the salts can breakdown if you turn them ON and OFF rapidly. The average lifespan for a HID capsule is about 2500-5000 hours before it starts to emit a bluer light (it is ready to go kaput when it starts to look pink), while a standard halogen generally lasts 1000-1300 hours before it starts to go dimmer.
Old 8/19/08, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Black GT500
As I understand it, you shouldn't flash to pass with your HID's perhaps it is also not good for them to turn on just for the unlock?
I was under the impression the factory HIDs have a reflector that changes position when going to bright, rather than a different bulb, so shouldn't flashing brights be no problem?
Old 8/19/08, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CO_VaporGT_09
I was under the impression the factory HIDs have a reflector that changes position when going to bright, rather than a different bulb, so shouldn't flashing brights be no problem?
You will need to have the HIDs turned on in the low beam first. I believe he was referring to just flashing the HID momentarily, which AFAIK should never happen on an OEM system. The car either comes with a separate halogen high beam system or prevents any flashing unless the low beam HID is already on.

Read my post regarding the 5 minute warm-down/cool-down periods.
Old 8/19/08, 03:53 PM
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Thanks for the answers guys.


Originally Posted by metroplex
You will need to have the HIDs turned on in the low beam first. I believe he was referring to just flashing the HID momentarily, which AFAIK should never happen on an OEM system. The car either comes with a separate halogen high beam system or prevents any flashing unless the low beam HID is already on.

Read my post regarding the 5 minute warm-down/cool-down periods.
Well, now I am a little more confused. It doesn't have any separate halogens, and the flash to pass does work on them when the lights are off. If you pull back on the dimmer, they will flash on and off 1 time very quickly. Even if you hold it back they come on and go right back off. If the warm-down/cool-down was so critical, it doesn't seem like they would do that, but not come on when you unlock the doors. Looks like they would mention something about it in the owners manual also, unless I just overlooked it.

Thanks for all of the info, I never knew that about HIDs. This is the first set I have ever had on anything.

Last edited by Rather B.Blown; 8/19/08 at 04:03 PM.
Old 8/19/08, 04:52 PM
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That's interesting. I guess the OEM thought that flashing to pass or signal (from a dark/unlit capsule) wasn't a common occurrence so they allow that and for safety reasons as well, but I wouldn't do it on a daily basis or on a regular basis since it will shorten the life of the D3R capsule.
Old 8/19/08, 08:54 PM
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Where can we get replacement parts for the HID lights? Manual says see your dealer. I don't think so. If you can install an aftermarket HID system surely you can replace wasted bulbs or whatever these wear out.
Old 8/20/08, 04:18 AM
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i haven't looked recently, but last time i checked (about 9 months ago), i couldn't find any aftermarket direct-fit-in replacements for our HID bulbs. we have d3r or d4r bulbs which have less mercury (or some other "bad" element) and run at a different voltage than typical older factory HIDs and aftermarket HIDs.
Old 8/20/08, 04:49 AM
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D3R: Reflector based, Mercury-free and runs at ~42V instead of 85 V with the D1/D2 HIDs.

I can't find them on RockAuto, but expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $300 for one capsule.
Old 8/20/08, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by metroplex
D3R: Reflector based, Mercury-free and runs at ~42V instead of 85 V with the D1/D2 HIDs.

I can't find them on RockAuto, but expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $300 for one capsule.
Any idea if they can be swapped (after/if they burn out) to an HID upgrade bulb kit, ie H10 or H11, or StangMods' ??

Old 8/20/08, 09:48 AM
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The aftermarket HIDs are all pretty much junk. The OEM HID reflector assembly on 08-up Stangs is made by Valeo/Sylvania, a genuine OEM. The aftermarket stuff is made in China regardless of what the seller states. The aftermarket capsules are generally modified D2S/D2R capsules and not even on the same level of quality as the genuine D2/D3/D4 capsules. My advice is not to worry about your D3Rs, enjoy them, and face the music when it comes time to replacing them (shelling out the $100+ for each capsule) because chances are you won't wear them out.
Old 8/20/08, 06:18 PM
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Follow the 5-minute rule. If you must power on the system, let it run for at least 5 minutes. This ensures that the salts reach their optimal operating temperature. Short usage times will severely decrease the useful life of the salts, meaning colorshift will occur much more quickly. If you turn the system off, keep it powered down for at least 5 minutes so the salts can properly return to a powder.


Never run the HIDs for more than 3 hours at a time. After 3 hours, let the system stay powered off for 5 minutes or more before you turn it on again. This may make nighttime road trips more tricky, but it will give you a chance to pull over and rest.
Found this on a website. I didn't realize it but that kind of stinks. Especially the 3 hour rule. That article was wrote in 2004 so if that is still true then Ford should have done something different with these lights. With regards to flashing the bulbs.Will need to flash the fogs I guess....
Old 8/20/08, 06:29 PM
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The technology hasn't changed much. Most of the OEMs still use D2R or D2S capsules. I am not sure if the D3/D4 (3rd and 4th gen) HIDs were designed so you CAN flash them, but I doubt it seeing how Ford prevents their turn-on with the perimeter lighting system. I don't even use the perimeter lighting system with my halogens because it will wear out the halogen bulbs.
Old 8/20/08, 07:11 PM
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After noticing they aren't used, I reasoned that the increased voltage requirement would be too much while running on battery alone.

Originally Posted by metroplex
The technology hasn't changed much. Most of the OEMs still use D2R or D2S capsules. I am not sure if the D3/D4 (3rd and 4th gen) HIDs were designed so you CAN flash them, but I doubt it seeing how Ford prevents their turn-on with the perimeter lighting system. I don't even use the perimeter lighting system with my halogens because it will wear out the halogen bulbs.
Old 8/20/08, 07:15 PM
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Unless they've solved the arc-to-focal point issue.. the HID kits are all illegal, 50 state wide. Yeah, I know, they probably work, but the reality is the length of the arc vs the filaments in the halogens is one issue , and where the arc is located versus the location of the halogen filament causes bad focus... both cause glare to the other drivers, and throw light in places you don't need, and don't focus it where you do.

Believe me, we went round and round on this on the 1993-1996 Mark VIIIs. Sylvania Osram products. Not made anymore, so whatever is in Ford stock, that's all there'll be. Problem with that is the Halogen light systems in the Gen 1s (as they're called) is self destructive.

If interested in more: http://web.wt.net/~houtex/marklights.htm

Anyway, just putting HID lights into a Halogen system is a problem. Not only due to the hot strike/warmup/cool down issue, but the light produced itself.

Besides... why would you do that? The lights are great on the Mustang, IMO. Esp. after gettin' outta that 95 Mark. Ugh.

/I was obsessed at the time about it... That car was miserable is lotsa ways anyway, I'm so glad it's gone.

Last edited by houtex; 8/20/08 at 07:16 PM.
Old 8/21/08, 01:36 AM
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Sure if your headlights are already on, but if they are not...

Originally Posted by CO_VaporGT_09
I was under the impression the factory HIDs have a reflector that changes position when going to bright, rather than a different bulb, so shouldn't flashing brights be no problem?
Old 8/21/08, 03:53 AM
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The increased voltage isn't a problem because the ballasts are there to convert 12VDC to whatever voltage is needed. In fact, 23,000 V (yes, that is 23 kV) is required to ignite the gas/salt mixture in the HID capsule for a split second, after that the voltage needed to sustain the HID is 85V (1-2nd gen) or 42V (3-4th gen) but all at 35W (minimal current). Our halogens are 55W/65W (low/high), so there is a power savings with HID.
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