oil filter
I have always wondered is it necessary to change the oil filter so much, I meen every oil change?
the rest of the automotive filters seem to last very long. anyone have any info on this?.
the rest of the automotive filters seem to last very long. anyone have any info on this?.
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!


Joined: September 23, 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
From: Memphis
It's cheap insurance. Stuff can get into your oil (tiny metal shavings etc) and going unchecked could cause further damage and also clog the filter restricting oil flow which could in turn lead to overheating of your motor, if I understand everything correctly.
x2 plus think of it this way spend the 4-8 dollars and get a motorcraft oil filter..... i put mobil 1 synthetic in my car and if your gonna spend that much on oil buy the filter worth it in the end
1+ If you want Ford to back their warranty, you must stay with the FL820 motorcraft or they WILL NOT cover engine damage for you .... period! Also, keep a service diary and your receipts of the filter and oil from the store you purchased it from. Ford insists on this. For some reason, they aren't that fussy about oil brands just so long as it's 5w20 for v8's and 5w30 for v6's . But they insist on that 1 filter.... their brand ONLY !! If you question this, just ask your dealer. That's who told me . Also, if it calls for 6 quarts, put in 6 quarts. I say this because if your car is like mine, at 6 quarts my dipstick says it's not full. I called Ford about this and they said-" Just 6 quarts only. Just so it's in the "safe" range on the stick is all that's nesessary."
alot of synthetic oil is recommended to be changed every 5,000miles but you really should change your filter every 3,000 miles. so if you are looking to save money then just change the filter every 3k and leave the oil in for the 5k requirement. other than that 3months/3000 miles. with me even though i use royal purple i still change every 3months/3000 miles some say its a waste cause its synthetic but i play on the safe side and so should you, so change your filter and stop your *****ing!!!! lol.
+1
the biggest reason is to get the old oil contaminated with combustion byproducts outta there...
I always prefill the filter before installing- drastically shortens dry startup time. Also run your finger around inside- even on a motorcraft, Ive seen metal shavings from a dull or chipped tap in the threads- might break off and go for a swim thru your motor/might not.
opinion time:
No more FRAMs for me- for the second and last time. I had one split across the center on a BBC back in 1980 or so, blew oil all over, had to coast off the highway. the only brand they had in stock for our windstar last fall was a fram, the thing rusted out under the 'black grip paint' at a year old- oil everywhere...yeah a year may be a long overdue, but still- in my opinion they use the cheapest metal ive ever seen.
Motorcrafts a good brand, never had mutch bad to say about ac delco either. years back the Lee 2 stage 'maxifilter' was a good design- they had a bypass filter- coarse grade, but still a filter for cold weather or 'overdue for a change' conditions...I'd imagine if you ran them too long though they might plug solid/even pop at high rpm if relief valve couldnt handle the flow
I do think the bypass strainer was a good idea, dont think any new ones offer that anymore...I cut apart the first one off my mustang to see how much metal chips it picked up, only has a rubber diaphragm that opens for bypassing mode- gotta say Ford does a great job of cleaning their engines, only found a few tiny 'glitter sized' specks of aluminum machining chips in the paper.
the biggest reason is to get the old oil contaminated with combustion byproducts outta there...
I always prefill the filter before installing- drastically shortens dry startup time. Also run your finger around inside- even on a motorcraft, Ive seen metal shavings from a dull or chipped tap in the threads- might break off and go for a swim thru your motor/might not.
opinion time:
No more FRAMs for me- for the second and last time. I had one split across the center on a BBC back in 1980 or so, blew oil all over, had to coast off the highway. the only brand they had in stock for our windstar last fall was a fram, the thing rusted out under the 'black grip paint' at a year old- oil everywhere...yeah a year may be a long overdue, but still- in my opinion they use the cheapest metal ive ever seen.
Motorcrafts a good brand, never had mutch bad to say about ac delco either. years back the Lee 2 stage 'maxifilter' was a good design- they had a bypass filter- coarse grade, but still a filter for cold weather or 'overdue for a change' conditions...I'd imagine if you ran them too long though they might plug solid/even pop at high rpm if relief valve couldnt handle the flow
I do think the bypass strainer was a good idea, dont think any new ones offer that anymore...I cut apart the first one off my mustang to see how much metal chips it picked up, only has a rubber diaphragm that opens for bypassing mode- gotta say Ford does a great job of cleaning their engines, only found a few tiny 'glitter sized' specks of aluminum machining chips in the paper.
I always use motercraft filters on my gt. I also installed magnetic oil plug on the oil pan. has anyone every opened there filter after a oil change? just to see if you have any chips or shavings in it? I think I will this oil change.

on the new one, I was just curious how well the factory did on cleaning out all the machining chips...a little crazy, a little messy, well yeah, but I felt better knowing nothing was grossly wrong before flogging it
@topbliss, hey I thought this was The Mustang Source.com Not topblissdumbassopinion.com !
but siserously when you get a funny engine noise and the ford tech tell you that it's a normal 4.6l
engine sound and then you show them a oil filter full of shavings I wonder what the retort would be.

but siserously when you get a funny engine noise and the ford tech tell you that it's a normal 4.6l
engine sound and then you show them a oil filter full of shavings I wonder what the retort would be.
on the subject of oil filters...over on fordmuscle.com in the galaxie forums, theres a old guy that goes by 'jcallisson' who has a 64(i think) Galaxie that has NEVER had an oil change except during a rebuild in the early 80's...hed said the motor was clean as a whistle inside at the rebuild, but it was pulled due to over 100k or something like that. he got the car from a relative that put a 'frantz' oil filter on it when new- its a remote filter that uses(seriously) a roll of toilet paper as a filter...it dont filter all the oil like a factory filter, instead it bleeds some off the sender port and cleans it/sends it back to the pan. I think its every 1000 miles you swap the tp roll out and top off the oil~ 1/2 qt or so...sounded kinda nuts, but read up on them- yes they are still made, but now only really used on commercial trucks, but same way- oil lasts indefinitely due to the ultra fine cleaning removing any particulates, and the paper holds any moisture that hits it, keeping the oil clear as new for years...
after reading up on that, seriously wonder if by using one of those and a accu-sump preluber, these engines might run darn near forever without ever needing a conventional oil change, and little to no startup wear.
after reading up on that, seriously wonder if by using one of those and a accu-sump preluber, these engines might run darn near forever without ever needing a conventional oil change, and little to no startup wear.
What they CAN do is state that any replacement parts meet certain standards. If you check your owners manual, it does NOT say you must use Ford Motorcraft oil xyz, but instead it says "To protect your engine's warranty, use Motorcraft 5W-20 OR AN EQUIVILANT 5W-20 OIL MEETING FORD'S SPECIFICATION WSS-M2C930-A". If they said we HAD to use Motorcraft 5W-20 oil, then they would HAVE to provide the oil to us free of charge...
Just for the record, I worked for a semiconductor manufacturer. One of the tools they used as a lead plater. The company that made that tool tried to tell use that using aftermarket rebuild plater cups (a PM part that was changed once per quarter and there are 18 on the tool. Each one was about $6000 from the vendor) would void the warranty.
That lasted right until our lawyers pointed out that nice little Federal law and offered to allow the vendor to start providing new, FREE plater cups for each quarterly PM. The vendor dropped that little "voiding your warranty" issue pretty much instantly.


