Derick423

I have a 2007 mustang Shelby gt first it all start with fluctuating rpms from 500 to I guess to 250 when I come to a stop and clutch engaged it would show a wrench and stall, eventually and check engine light came on and pulled a code p1114 something to do with actuator/motor, The TB so I replaced it and it fixed the fluctuation till I drove the car after I did the relearn and my rpms and mph are sticking at what ever speed I'm traveling at but now I got a code do to something like air temp sensor but when I googled it it says it's wired in the "mas" so I replace that and it fixed the code but my car was shaking with a very bad idle with another code about the 02sensor I haven't replaced them, I've been to busy at work, I dont know what to do about the sticking rpms and mph would it be the tps senor?

houtex

Ok. Had to retranslate, that's a lot of words and stuff at once. I'm trying to help when I say please maybe break things up a little, new lines for new conditions, maybe slow down and re-read it to ensure others won't struggle with trying to figure out what you mean. This is a very hard to read thing, buuutt... I think I got it...

So. Recap:

Car idle low, wrench light happens, stalls out, code happens says Throttle Body actuator/motor, so you replace 'it'.
Question: What is the 'it', specifically? Entire, brand new, out of the box from Summit or such Motorcraft throttle body, stock replacement for your car? Or one from a junkyard? Or just the throttle body motor (that Dorman time waster kit?) Or...?

Moving forward, 'it' is replaced, then it fixed the idle/stall/wrench, and you did a relearn, and things went wonky again.
Question: What did you do to 'relearn'? What was your procedure? What were you relearning?

Now the car's RPM and/or speed is stuck as if on cruise control... do I have that correct? And then a code for the air temp sensor, which is part of the MAF sensor, so you replaced that MAF and that code is gone.
But now the car is shaking with bad idle again, and there's an O2 sensor code now.

You've not replaced any O2 sensors (there's four in your case) and... here we are.

Have I got that about right? I think so, but I'd rather be sure.

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Assuming I have that right, then the TPS shouldn't cause an O2 sensor code. The O2 sensor code will tell you exactly which side and which of the two on that side. Post the code here and we'll know that. The TPS would maybe cause the idle to be bad and probably you'd get another wrench light and/or a thrown code about that, and not an O2 code.

What'll cause an O2 sensor code will be bad wiring, first, in some way. Bad sensor of course. Or the car is in a too rich/too lean condition and it can't escape that issue. Most likely a fuel delivery issue, bad injectors, clogged fuel filter, bad gas. Posting the code(s) will tell me/us more.

There could be a timing issue, but that would likely be caused by the cam phasers not working correctly, to which there'll be a code for that, or there's just wonky timing, to which there's actually a code for that (correlation between cam and crank timing is wrong, ask me how I know that's a thing... ) Neither of which, by themselves, will cause an O2 sensor code unless it's really messed up and causing a really bad rich/lean issue to happen.

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Now, the reason for the particular questions above...

re: the 'it'. If you replaced the throttle body, that's fine, but if it wasn't a new out of the box correct stock replacement one (I think the Shelby GT is just a lil' gussied up and possibly tweaked computer'd 'regular' GT in disguise) then all bets are off. The new stock replacement TB comes with everything. The TB, the motor and the TPS. Bolt on, done. That's what I wound up doing when my wrench happened, at the end, after trying the TPS alone, then the Dorman replacement TB motor, which I recommend nobody do. Thing is a waste of time, it locked up my TB when installed, useless. Which is a thing that may be happening to you if you've attempted the motor alone. I'd say ditch your current throttle body in total and buy the real deal. I know it's not exactly cheap, but... it's the right thing to do, trust me, been there, done that. Until Ford comes out with a new motor alone, you're just better off buyin' the whole thing.

re: the relearn: If you were relearning the computer, that's fine. But did you also relearn the throttle pedal? I'm thinking maybe not... not that this would throw the O2 code either, but it might cause the sticking issue. Here's how to relearn, at any time:
Turn off car. Take key out. Open door, close door. Put key in. Turn key to 'on', but DO NOT START. Within 5 seconds, slowly depress the accelerator pedal to the floor. Quickly release. Start car, drive on. You've relearned the pedal. The computer will now properly know where the pedal is and how much throttle you want.

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And then after all this musing and such, if you did do the TB motor, not the whole TB... :hm:

But I'll refrain from postulating more until you post up the current O2 code you're gettin'.

I hope this helps. Congrats on your first post, lurker for near a year! See ya soon!

Derick423

I'm sorry but Ive always sucked at writing novels, but idk if it is still the original tb I'm assuming from shebly bbk62mm twin, the first codes were
"P2104" throttle acutator/motor "forced idle"
"P2111" throttle acutator/motor "stuck open"
"P0507" idle control system rom higher then expected
So I replaced the actuator/motor and the check engine light went off it fixed the fluctuation of the rpms attempted the relearn by disconnected the battery jumped the + to the - to drain the pcm reconnected waited for clusters to clear and ran till normal running temp, then drove the car and noticed the rpms and mph sticking after acouple of miles🤷
New code popped up with the code
"P1113" intake air temp assuming the "mas" from what I found on Google 🤷replaced that light went off and that when the car starts to shake really bad with even worse idle then it was before,
Now a new code showed up
"P2197" 02 senor signal biased/stuck lean bank2 sensor1 dtc haven't fixed due to time and money and now a new code just showed up
"P061b" internal control module torque calculation performance

houtex

P2197:
https://www.obd-codes.com/p2197
Left side of engine, first sensor (in the manifold, or just past it) is the 'cause', but there's plenty of causes that can be the problem and it not be the sensor itself.
This is also a 'lean' condition error. The air/fuel ratio is not 14.7:1, which means there's either not enough fuel going in, or there's extra air being introduced.

P061B:
https://www.obd-codes.com/p061b
See video below. Yes, is the same one in the link, either way.

*Maybe* you need a new air filter. Or the mounting of it is wonky. You may need to look at the snorkel tube (going to the engine from the air filter) too. You have air getting where it shouldn't.

And now I also think that IF, and I say that emphatically, IF the air filter/intake snorkel doesn't fix it, you get a new MAF and then if that doesn't work, a brand new throttle body. All of these are potentials for all the codes you're getting at this point, as well as the car running bad.

You may also want to check the intake itself. Ensure it's not cracked somewhere, and I'd be looking at the left side where bank 2 is. Might be air getting in a runner or two. Maybe it needs to come off and get new gasket rings on those.

You're throwing a parts cannon at this, looks like, chasing the issue, but it's all related. It's all about the breathing in the car has to do, and it's not happy.

Another thing you can do is acquire a smoke machine and stick it in there to see if you can find any smoke comin' out. See the second video.

Or you can just use some wd40, starter fluid, carb cleaner, propane... (BE CAREFUL) and shoot the intake with it to see if the idle changes. If it does, definitely have a leak in the intake. Video 3 below.

Let us know, hope that helps some more!