MadGT

I posted this in another forum, I just trying to get as much visibility as possible for potential help:

OK, fellas...I've reached the "I need help" point. I just installed a set of MRT Hood struts. The install was easy--no issues with the pax side. Driver side=different story.

The problem: Driver side body bracket does not stay put once torqued down. It swiveled to the left when I closed the hood.

Solutions I have tried:

1. Removed and re-installed entire bracket= no change.
2. Torque bolt to specs (8 lb-ft or 11 Nm) =no help--bolt still moves.
2. Torque bolt to spec and then some = snapped the doggone bolt.

The body bracket swivels only once (red arrow). What I mean is that, once I align it (yellow line) and torque it down, it swivels to the left once and it stays there. It does go left/right once it reaches the position you see on the pic.

Thoughts...because I am stomped?

ford4v429

I dont have these, but just looking at it, the torque from the strut SHOULD make the bracket try to turn that way- I *think* they either gave you two passenger side mounts or perhaps they are swapped/mounted on wrong side? if it was mirrored, the torque wouldnt be solely on the bolt, but also(mostly) on the angled lip which would prevent rotation if behind the bolt instead of in front of...I'm sure someone that has a set can clear this possibility up...only other thing I'd wonder, are they supposed to be mounted ahead of center instead of behind? if moved forward to the next bolt would the torque be reversed so its pushing against the angle?

mcate

Mine does the exact same thing, & I just live with it. I could, however, see putting some kind of spacer between the the bracket & the body. That would fill in the gap & prevent it from turning.

MadGT

Good points on all, but this is the correct part. I've tried mounting them forward and it does not work.

MadGT

That would be my next course of action or like you, live wit it.

poldrv

I am wondering if you have the bracket and bolt in the right location. Take a look at the attached pictures, these are the MRT product from Moss Mustangs.
http://picasaweb.google.ca/poldrv/NoPropRod
http://picasaweb.google.ca/poldrv/NoPropRodAndOtherMods

2005 V6 Mustang.

TacoBill

Is your strut mounted at the top like mine?

MadGT

I looks to me that it is...although your upper bracket is different than mine....

MadGT

Here's the passenger side:

STL-GT

Mine look just like Bill's and I'm not having that problem. Looks like they revved the brackets since I got mine - wonder if that's the issue?

mcate

Looks like there's no gap between the side of the bracket & the fender on TacoBills red car. You could take a rattail file & oval the hole out on the bracket so that it would sit flush against the fender.

ford4v429

so many pictures, all the same direction, so must be installed per instructions- but still gotta wonder if the instructions are messed up as that bracket sure *looks* backwards to me...Why would the apparent supporting edge be loaded AWAY from its support? anyone from MRT on the discussion boards? seriously wonder if engineering/manual writers miscommunicated somehow...if flipped or sides swapped, or both, the pivot would stay relatively in the same spot by the looks of it relative the bolt, but any/all the above would put a edge against the fender that torque would actually hold tighter against...just a unbiased opinion from some pictures, so who knows...

little hijack- anyone here have the old redlines that mounted forward? I have a glass hood, and *think* the longer struts would be less likely to bow my hood- and hate to admit it, but with currently still no prop rod, oilchanges and such require a embarassing piece of old broom handle I gotta get some struts on there and get that hood painted soon. would like to know if the old redlines are pretty hard to close as the hood with the attached scoop is probably 20# heavier than stock...think theyd hold it up?

JimC

It looks to me like it is mounted wrong - the MRT sticker is upside down for one thing. It should be displayed to the outside with the lettering reading the other way shouldn't it (looking at the picture on your driver side).

I'll have to check my CDC struts tomorrow - they are basically the same product.

JedCranium

The first time I installed mine I got it wrong their diagram sucks *****! I finally figured it out.

JimC

For comparison I took some shots of my CDC struts - identical to the MRT. I had them installed by CDC on an open house day a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems with them

Driver side:






Passenger side:

Five Oh Brian

An easy fix would be to drill a hole toward the front edge of the front mounting plates. Then rivet it in place. Having two fasteners instead of one would prevent the rotation you're experiencing.

MadGT

OK, I just came back from a local Mustang Car Show. I saw at least 10 mounted MRT Hood struts. Around 6 of them were mounted exactly like mine without an issue. 2 stangs had the same issue as I did, the other 2 also had the same issue, but the owners decided to drill a small hole (as suggested by Five oh Brian) above and that took care of the problem. There was no consensus amongst all as to why, the ones that moved, did so. Soooo....drill...here I come.

ford4v429

just happened to think of a possibility that might be occurring...I had the fenders off mine the week I got it to do some sealing/undercoating with roll-on bedliner, and when removing the fenders was pretty shocked that there is not a single shim used on these cars, and the bolt holes are minimal clearance- looked to me as if Ford has a 'jig' that positions/spotwelds the nuts to the chassis in exactly the right position so gaps are set, etc...theres a larger hole in the sheetmetal and the nuts are welded to that- some centered, some not, but the fenders just bolt right on perfectly...now if some of the chassis had the unibody sheetmetal positioned just a tad inboard, the brackets pictured *might* have a tighter fit against it/if outboard, a bit of a gap...a gap in the short part behind the bolt would allow it to move pretty easy by just rotating, but if touching metal there, it would have to 'slide' under the bolt before it could rotate...just a guess as to 'why' it may be a problem on only some cars...

if you dont want to drill, there might be a couple other options:

VHBtape on the bracket before installing? that stuff holds a lot more stuff on our cars than many folks realize...it would probably be enough to prevent a bolted part from sliding a little

to snug it up against the chassis so the backside is making contact, like someone mentioned before, you could file out the hole in the bracket to scoot it out tight against the sheetmetal- then it would need to slide in order to rotate, would probably work fine...but the bolt would have room to still move back where it was...

a twist on the same thinking though, perhaps try putting the bracket where you want it, push it inward so its snug against the outer edge of its mounting hole, then see if a feeler gage could be pushed behind the vertical tab and the chassis(check behind the bolt). try to find some stainless or even just plastic shimstock a few thou thicker than the gap, stick it to the bracket with doublesided tape, reinstall it...not much of a 'stop' there, but its obviously enough for most cars...if the backsides touching the chassis and the bolts snug against the clearance hole, it shouldnt be able to move...

the design still looks reversed to me though

MadGT

^Lots of good, deep thinking there partner. I will try a few things. Interesting to see JimC's pictures above. The lower bracket is exactly like mine. Good to know that his does not move. I will take this thing apart tomorrow again, I try a few thing. I appreciate everyone's input.

mcate

I think he's got them on the correct sides. Since the holes in the brackets are towards one end, the brackets would hit the cowling if they were switched. I just looked at mine (MRT) & they're both angled out.