Knock noise from front end going over even small bumps
5/4/21, 04:24 AM
#21
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I don't know what "OEM style rubber bushing" that listing is talking about; I do not see any rubber bushings in that picture; if you peel back the rubber cover (which I have done on my failed ones) you'd see that there is a steel ball joint inside. Maybe they are talking about the rubber boots, or maybe they simply do not know what they are talking about. On the $200 BMR ones that I just bought, the ball joints on each end have grease fittings, I'm hoping that helps them last a little longer.
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JimGilles (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 08:51 AM
#22
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Your smugness is misguided there, M05... Sorry. 
https://www.americanmuscle.com/profo...113-10409.html
Those are greaseable ball joints. However, don't take my word for it:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=10
and
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=29
and
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=30
That last being the Motorcraft replacement, and it is absolutely NOT a rubber bushing. They are not greaseable, sadly, but they are in fact a ball joint on either end. This is why they have the nut on the back of the stud near the joint, so you use a wrench on it to get the thing on and off. Otherwise it'd spin in the socket. I have these original still (no clunking oddly enough, must be the full stiff GT500 sway bar setup.
) and you definitely cannot pull them off without a wrench on that nut on the stud. Real annoying, but that's how it is. They aren't swedged in the receiver like a tie rod or knuckle and therefore locked in for tightening or loosening, so they had to put that nut there instead.
Hope that settles it. Go Motorcraft and be done with it, unless you want adjustables, then these:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-f...lack-0514.html
And those are definitely greaseable ball joints, plus adjustable. Fun for everyone!
Oh and those OPR ones? They have a bad listing. Those are ball joints too. The nut on the end tells ya that. Oh, sure, they could put that stud in a rubber bushing, but the forces would RIP THEM OUT because it's not a through hole bushing like that would need to be. Like this, for a 1997 Thunderbird:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...140602&jsn=919
The one end is a stud with captured bushings, and the other end is a bushing in a hoop, with a through bolt connector to the sway bar. Source: had me a '97 Hooptybird and it needed those things. Awful design, the bushing in the hoop at the end would disintegrate rapidly. Clatter clatter clatter. Didn't last for crap. The one thing about that chassis that really drove me irritated. Dumb dumb DUMB design.
For what all that's worth. Be nice, everyone. Laters!
/Also, the guy who said this thread helped? Glad to hear it!
https://www.americanmuscle.com/profo...113-10409.html
Those are greaseable ball joints. However, don't take my word for it:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=10
and
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=29
and
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1431310&jsn=30
That last being the Motorcraft replacement, and it is absolutely NOT a rubber bushing. They are not greaseable, sadly, but they are in fact a ball joint on either end. This is why they have the nut on the back of the stud near the joint, so you use a wrench on it to get the thing on and off. Otherwise it'd spin in the socket. I have these original still (no clunking oddly enough, must be the full stiff GT500 sway bar setup.
) and you definitely cannot pull them off without a wrench on that nut on the stud. Real annoying, but that's how it is. They aren't swedged in the receiver like a tie rod or knuckle and therefore locked in for tightening or loosening, so they had to put that nut there instead.Hope that settles it. Go Motorcraft and be done with it, unless you want adjustables, then these:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-f...lack-0514.html
And those are definitely greaseable ball joints, plus adjustable. Fun for everyone!
Oh and those OPR ones? They have a bad listing. Those are ball joints too. The nut on the end tells ya that. Oh, sure, they could put that stud in a rubber bushing, but the forces would RIP THEM OUT because it's not a through hole bushing like that would need to be. Like this, for a 1997 Thunderbird:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...140602&jsn=919
The one end is a stud with captured bushings, and the other end is a bushing in a hoop, with a through bolt connector to the sway bar. Source: had me a '97 Hooptybird and it needed those things. Awful design, the bushing in the hoop at the end would disintegrate rapidly. Clatter clatter clatter. Didn't last for crap. The one thing about that chassis that really drove me irritated. Dumb dumb DUMB design.
For what all that's worth. Be nice, everyone. Laters!
/Also, the guy who said this thread helped? Glad to hear it!
I don't know what "OEM style rubber bushing" that listing is talking about; I do not see any rubber bushings in that picture; if you peel back the rubber cover (which I have done on my failed ones) you'd see that there is a steel ball joint inside. Maybe they are talking about the rubber boots, or maybe they simply do not know what they are talking about. On the $200 BMR ones that I just bought, the ball joints on each end have grease fittings, I'm hoping that helps them last a little longer.
Perhaps the the rubber bushings they're describing are just rubber boots that protect the ball joints from moisture or as also mentioned could very well be the stud placed inside of a bushing?
At any rate, the point is, the end links are more than likely the cause for the dude's clunking noises vs the sway bar bushings, as the end links usually wear out before the sway bar bushings.
If on the other hand, it does turn out to be the sway bar bushings? then I would just consider replacing the sway bar altogether with a new one if just replacing the bushings won't prevent the bar from sliding side to side which causes the clunking. In the end, what matters most, is the info provided in the thread has been helpful towards Jim Gilles clunking noise issues.
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 5/4/21 at 02:27 PM.
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JimGilles (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 01:41 PM
#23
I just found that my front stabilizer bar is 31mm. The two worn out bushings are a 1 3/8 which is 33mm and a 31mm. Yes, I do know how to use calipers.
The 33mm bushing had a plastic shim placed behind it in attempts to make the bushing tighter, which did not work.
The Carfax did state that the Mustang had minor driver side front damage that had been repaired.
I find that the stock bar and bushings for 2008s are 28.6mm and 34mm. Am I correct?
Has anyone ever heard of a 31mm front stabilizer bar for a 2008 4.0 Coupe Deluxe?
I ordered two new factory clamps as the clamps were quite shiny and wallowed out on the inside. Especially the clamp that had the 33mm bushing.
I will most likely be looking for a 34mm bar once my 34mm bushings come in.
The 33mm bushing had a plastic shim placed behind it in attempts to make the bushing tighter, which did not work.
The Carfax did state that the Mustang had minor driver side front damage that had been repaired.
I find that the stock bar and bushings for 2008s are 28.6mm and 34mm. Am I correct?
Has anyone ever heard of a 31mm front stabilizer bar for a 2008 4.0 Coupe Deluxe?
I ordered two new factory clamps as the clamps were quite shiny and wallowed out on the inside. Especially the clamp that had the 33mm bushing.
I will most likely be looking for a 34mm bar once my 34mm bushings come in.
Last edited by JimGilles; 5/4/21 at 07:38 PM.
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m05fastbackGT (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 02:19 PM
#24
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I don't think the bushings will ever fit tight enough to stop the side-to-side movement (and also let the bar rotate like it must). I have been down this road; bought the best bushings and clamps that I could find (Steeda), which fit nice and tight, and it did not make any difference to the clunking (and I am still not sure exactly where the clunking was coming from, but this side-to-side movement is my best guess at this point).
So I'd focus on a way to stop that side-to-side thing . . . and the best solution I have seen, is a piece or rubber hose wrapped around the bar, up against each side of the clamp/bushing, secured with hose clamps so there is no room for side-to-side movement. I hope that makes sense, and I think there is an old post on here somewhere with pictures.
I am not sure of the size of the bars, but I do have my original 2010 GT front bar around here somewhere that I could measure if I made that effort. (I replaced it with a used GT500 bar a while back, which was a little heavier.) Used "take off" bars do show up on Craig's List and e-bay quite often, and cheap, so that would be a good place to look, if you are looking. I'd sell you my old one cheap, but it's big and heavy and probably too expensive to ship.
So I'd focus on a way to stop that side-to-side thing . . . and the best solution I have seen, is a piece or rubber hose wrapped around the bar, up against each side of the clamp/bushing, secured with hose clamps so there is no room for side-to-side movement. I hope that makes sense, and I think there is an old post on here somewhere with pictures.
I am not sure of the size of the bars, but I do have my original 2010 GT front bar around here somewhere that I could measure if I made that effort. (I replaced it with a used GT500 bar a while back, which was a little heavier.) Used "take off" bars do show up on Craig's List and e-bay quite often, and cheap, so that would be a good place to look, if you are looking. I'd sell you my old one cheap, but it's big and heavy and probably too expensive to ship.
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JimGilles (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 07:35 PM
#25
I don't think the bushings will ever fit tight enough to stop the side-to-side movement (and also let the bar rotate like it must). I have been down this road; bought the best bushings and clamps that I could find (Steeda), which fit nice and tight, and it did not make any difference to the clunking (and I am still not sure exactly where the clunking was coming from, but this side-to-side movement is my best guess at this point).
So I'd focus on a way to stop that side-to-side thing . . . and the best solution I have seen, is a piece or rubber hose wrapped around the bar, up against each side of the clamp/bushing, secured with hose clamps so there is no room for side-to-side movement. I hope that makes sense, and I think there is an old post on here somewhere with pictures.
I am not sure of the size of the bars, but I do have my original 2010 GT front bar around here somewhere that I could measure if I made that effort. (I replaced it with a used GT500 bar a while back, which was a little heavier.) Used "take off" bars do show up on Craig's List and e-bay quite often, and cheap, so that would be a good place to look, if you are looking. I'd sell you my old one cheap, but it's big and heavy and probably too expensive to ship.
So I'd focus on a way to stop that side-to-side thing . . . and the best solution I have seen, is a piece or rubber hose wrapped around the bar, up against each side of the clamp/bushing, secured with hose clamps so there is no room for side-to-side movement. I hope that makes sense, and I think there is an old post on here somewhere with pictures.
I am not sure of the size of the bars, but I do have my original 2010 GT front bar around here somewhere that I could measure if I made that effort. (I replaced it with a used GT500 bar a while back, which was a little heavier.) Used "take off" bars do show up on Craig's List and e-bay quite often, and cheap, so that would be a good place to look, if you are looking. I'd sell you my old one cheap, but it's big and heavy and probably too expensive to ship.
I already went to the junk yard and bought several parts, one being a 20mm rear stabilizer bar and links.
I will probably be heading back to the junk yard to buy a 34mm front stabilizer bar.
5/4/21, 07:52 PM
#26
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I had a knocking noise in the left front of my car and after I took the wheels off to polish them one day I noticed that the tie rod end was bad. I also replaced the stabilizers also just to be sure. I would check the tie rod ends also.
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JimGilles (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 07:57 PM
#27
Legacy TMS Member
Their being wrong doesn't mean you should double down on that and post 'wrong again, slick!' as if you won something... aka bein' smug. You didn't win. You provided bad information and continued to do so, rather than do the research into the products. I had no choice but to discredit your postings and provide the correct information, precisely because you didn't do your research. What's worse is now you BLAME OTHERS for your not doing your research, and instead spread misinformation, insisting you're correct up until my post pulls the rug from under all that.
We are trying to help people, not confuse them. It's bad enough the OPR listing is wrong. We have to do better. I'm sorry if you don't like the delivery or the proof provided or whatever, oh well.
And that's it, done in this one. Hope all who are lookin' for info has what they need, and good luck to us all.
*eject*
5/4/21, 08:01 PM
#28
I found the worn out tie rod ends when I removed the front wheels in order to remove the front bumper so that I could use the $10.00 Rust Oleum head light lens restoration kit. My $10.00 head light lens job turned into both tie rod ends, both struts with alignment and two new head light assemblies with all led bulbs as the driver's side head light assembly had been busted open in the bottom and was only attached by the upper bracket. I was going to do all of that but not just yet.
Last edited by JimGilles; 5/4/21 at 08:09 PM.
5/4/21, 08:05 PM
#29
Legacy TMS Member
I just found that my front stabilizer bar is 31mm. The two worn out bushings are a 1 3/8 which is 33mm and a 31mm. Yes, I do know how to use calipers.
The 33mm bushing had a plastic shim placed behind it in attempts to make the bushing tighter, which did not work.
The Carfax did state that the Mustang had minor driver side front damage that had been repaired.
I find that the stock bar and bushings for 2008s are 28.6mm and 34mm. Am I correct?
Has anyone ever heard of a 31mm front stabilizer bar for a 2008 4.0 Coupe Deluxe?
I ordered two new factory clamps as the clamps were quite shiny and wallowed out on the inside. Especially the clamp that had the 33mm bushing.
I will most likely be looking for a 34mm bar once my 34mm bushings come in.
The 33mm bushing had a plastic shim placed behind it in attempts to make the bushing tighter, which did not work.
The Carfax did state that the Mustang had minor driver side front damage that had been repaired.
I find that the stock bar and bushings for 2008s are 28.6mm and 34mm. Am I correct?
Has anyone ever heard of a 31mm front stabilizer bar for a 2008 4.0 Coupe Deluxe?
I ordered two new factory clamps as the clamps were quite shiny and wallowed out on the inside. Especially the clamp that had the 33mm bushing.
I will most likely be looking for a 34mm bar once my 34mm bushings come in.
https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide
In there you may find the correct size for your setup. Or what it's supposed to be. 31mm front doesn't seem to be a thing. 28.6 and 34mm seems to be it. Doesn't seem a 31mm is a thing, but an aftermarket one may have been applied, or someone was incorrect in putting the wrong bushings in there... sounds like that's more the case, given the front end hit you speak of.
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JimGilles (5/4/21)
5/4/21, 08:45 PM
#30
V6 had three different setups. Here's a guide from LMR
https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide
In there you may find the correct size for your setup. Or what it's supposed to be. 31mm front doesn't seem to be a thing. 28.6 and 34mm seems to be it. Doesn't seem a 31mm is a thing, but an aftermarket one may have been applied, or someone was incorrect in putting the wrong bushings in there... sounds like that's more the case, given the front end hit you speak of.
https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide
In there you may find the correct size for your setup. Or what it's supposed to be. 31mm front doesn't seem to be a thing. 28.6 and 34mm seems to be it. Doesn't seem a 31mm is a thing, but an aftermarket one may have been applied, or someone was incorrect in putting the wrong bushings in there... sounds like that's more the case, given the front end hit you speak of.
My 31mm front bar must be an off brand, aftermarket version.
Junk yard here I come.
5/4/21, 10:55 PM
#31
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Calm down. It's embarrassing.
Their being wrong doesn't mean you should double down on that and post 'wrong again, slick!' as if you won something... aka bein' smug. You didn't win. You provided bad information and continued to do so, rather than do the research into the products. I had no choice but to discredit your postings and provide the correct information, precisely because you didn't do your research. What's worse is now you BLAME OTHERS for your not doing your research, and instead spread misinformation, insisting you're correct up until my post pulls the rug from under all that.
We are trying to help people, not confuse them. It's bad enough the OPR listing is wrong. We have to do better. I'm sorry if you don't like the delivery or the proof provided or whatever, oh well.
And that's it, done in this one. Hope all who are lookin' for info has what they need, and good luck to us all.
*eject*
Their being wrong doesn't mean you should double down on that and post 'wrong again, slick!' as if you won something... aka bein' smug. You didn't win. You provided bad information and continued to do so, rather than do the research into the products. I had no choice but to discredit your postings and provide the correct information, precisely because you didn't do your research. What's worse is now you BLAME OTHERS for your not doing your research, and instead spread misinformation, insisting you're correct up until my post pulls the rug from under all that.
We are trying to help people, not confuse them. It's bad enough the OPR listing is wrong. We have to do better. I'm sorry if you don't like the delivery or the proof provided or whatever, oh well.
And that's it, done in this one. Hope all who are lookin' for info has what they need, and good luck to us all.
*eject*
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 5/4/21 at 10:57 PM.
5/7/21, 04:59 PM
#32
My Prothane 34mm bushings just arrived today from CJ Pony.
I went to a local junk yard where there were four S197s. One had no front end left. One had a 28.6 mm bar. One had a 31mm stabilizer bar. Makes me wonder if that was a dealer aftermarket bar size of some type. The last one had the coveted 34mm bar. It still has 75% of the factory paint in the bushing area. I only paid 14.95 for it at the U-Pull.
I cleaned it up and installed the new bushings and not only is there no more clunk but it handles great.
I went to a local junk yard where there were four S197s. One had no front end left. One had a 28.6 mm bar. One had a 31mm stabilizer bar. Makes me wonder if that was a dealer aftermarket bar size of some type. The last one had the coveted 34mm bar. It still has 75% of the factory paint in the bushing area. I only paid 14.95 for it at the U-Pull.
I cleaned it up and installed the new bushings and not only is there no more clunk but it handles great.
Last edited by JimGilles; 5/7/21 at 05:49 PM.
5/7/21, 05:30 PM
#33
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Good to know you located the right size sway bar and that it resolved your clunk issues along with the new bushings.. Congrats
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JimGilles (5/7/21)
5/7/21, 06:54 PM
#34
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Congrats!
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Bert (6/7/21)
5/8/21, 10:23 PM
#36
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Glad to see you figured it out and got it corrected. On the other note thought we left gravy in the dust we shouldn't be arguing with each other. Like I have heard somewhere lately (c'mon man) 
5/9/21, 06:38 AM
#37
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
On the other note, it's done and over with.. So lets just leave it at that.
6/7/21, 02:43 PM
#38
Hello, piggybacking on this thread. I have a 2014 S197 with 127k miles and I suspect my front end links are going bad. When I jacked the front end up, I hit the sway bar with my hand (kinda slamming in an upwards motion) and I can hear a clunk coming from what appears to be the passenger link, but I am unsure. I hit/pried on some other things, but the noise only comes from the bar. I'm assuming the bar shouldn't make ANY noise when I hit it, since it should be tight with the frame. I haven't seen anybody else in the thread do this, so I'm just making an educated guess. I can also twist the sway bar link with my hand, not sure if thats an issue. Would I be right in replacing my front links? I just did the rear sway links a week ago and the front started with the same sounding noise over bumps.
Last edited by quipple; 6/7/21 at 02:49 PM.
6/7/21, 02:58 PM
#39
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Yes that sounds like what I would expect with worn end links, and at 127K they are almost sure to be worn out. You can replace with OEM, or check out Steeda or BMR for aftermarket "upgrades" that supposedly "should" last longer. The only complication is that they are adjustable, which you probably do not need, which makes them a little trickier to install.
Even the OEM ones are a more little difficult to install than you might expect, not quite the super-easy two-bolt job that it appears to be, because the darn bolt keeps turning and it's hard to hold; but it can be done with a little patience and the right tools. Make sure they are torqued down real good, so they don't wiggle around and start rattling again
and, I finally got under there and took a real good look at my front sway bar, and how it mounts . . . and I want to correct myself from earlier, worn bushings definitely CAN contribute to the clunking, and I also see how shims could work/help . . . I got pictures on my phone, can't post right now but will try to remember later
Even the OEM ones are a more little difficult to install than you might expect, not quite the super-easy two-bolt job that it appears to be, because the darn bolt keeps turning and it's hard to hold; but it can be done with a little patience and the right tools. Make sure they are torqued down real good, so they don't wiggle around and start rattling again
and, I finally got under there and took a real good look at my front sway bar, and how it mounts . . . and I want to correct myself from earlier, worn bushings definitely CAN contribute to the clunking, and I also see how shims could work/help . . . I got pictures on my phone, can't post right now but will try to remember later
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quipple (6/7/21)
6/7/21, 03:43 PM
#40
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm just going to purchase some OEM style ones for around $50, I don't track it and it isn't lowered. If OEM lasted me this long, don't see why I'd put upgraded ones on. I suppose you're talking about the nut that is positioned toward the inside of the car (bottom link nut), in which case I could just put a tight vice grip around and torque the nut with a 18mm socket wrench. Appreciate the help.
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Bert (6/7/21)