I own a 2005 GT which has the honeycombed looking hydrocarbon trap in the air outlet, I had removed it since it looks pretty restrictive. After I did the idle was up and down and kinda all over the place. I have seen where lots of people have done this. Have you had the same problem? I guess it probably leans the mixture too much and might throw a code. At any rate I returned it and everything seems to be normal again. However I would like to be rid of it.

 

Did you try any of this stuff with it out?

Recalibrate after disconnecting the battery:

• Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
• Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
• Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
• Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.

Reset:

• With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
• Put the gearshift in neutral, turn off all accessories.
• Turn on car without starting the engine.
• Wait till the dash lights stabilize (some of them will turn off)
• Step on the gas pedal in one smooth and steady motion
• Once gas pedal hits the bottom, let go.
• Turn off car and wait 4-5 seconds.
• Turn on the engine.

Try the reset first and if that doesn't help disconnect the battery and try both. It might solve it, but no guaranties.

 

Is the recalibrate just a quicker way to make the car learn something? Wouldn't it eventually learn, or does this have to be done?

Also, do either of these have to be done for other mods? Like exhaust... CAI... Shakers... etc.?

 

LOL is this the future or what? having to " teach our car to learn" something. Remember when Knight Rider seamed so far out? we're not far off.

 

It's on pg. 204 of my owner's manual.
Dustin told me if you didn't do the recal. after working on the car with the battery disconnected it would run like s***.

The reset I'm not sure about, but it seems to help get rid of the drive by wire lag.

 

when i removed mine a year ago i had no ill effects at all. jsut took it out. car felt the same. didnt have to disconnect battery or teach it anything.

 

That seems to be the norm. I just thought I would give some ideas to help.

 

When I installed my intake, prior to getting Dougs marvolous sct tunes, I ran it around a month or so without the trap, even though the instructions strongly reccomended to use it. Ran perfect.

 

I had a similar problem. It was especially bad with the a/c on. I took it into the dealership and they said it was a faulty throttlebody. I never threw any fault codes. Maybe you should have it checked.

 

Actually this is the past. It is part of the adaptive strategy that Ford has in it's EEC program. Sense the late 80's you could fix idle surging by cleaning the throttle and reseting the computer that way. It just forces the computer to learn faster. When you drive the vehicle stop and let it idle for 30 seconds or so. Then take off and stop after a short while. Do this for 10 or 15 minutes.

 

If you follow everyone's advice, you shouldn't have any problems..I also found out from Ford that after those devices were discontinued in mid 05, there were no calibration changes to the stock ECM program files, so their really not necessary or required, just give your computer time to re-learn and adjust and you'll be just fine..