How to hard wire an Escort Passport 8500
4/24/05, 02:38 PM
#1
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Buy this kit
From here
Undo the two clips holding the overhead light unit up. I used the car key to do it. Just push in and pull down and it pops loose.
[attachmentid=19022]
Unplug the power connector for the light assembly and remove. Now you have to attach the positive lead. The supplied blue 3M connector I found was too big for the wire so I used a smaller red one that I already had. Use the black wire with blue stripe. Make sure you cut the insulation with a blade before attaching to make better contact. Then insert the spade connector from the wire kit. You may notice that some of the other wires here look cut, that was from trial and error :nono:
[attachmentid=19021]
For the ground connection, there is no grounding attachment here for the lug. I tried tapping into the other wires on the map light and for some reason wouldn't work for me.
The easiest thing I found was inserting the grounding lug in between the roof and a metal clip as shown here. It's just held in by friction, but it works good.
[attachmentid=19023]
Then tuck in all the extra wiring into the headliner. I like my detector to the right of the mirror. I used the supplied velcro tape to attach the smart button to the mirror. I like it there because the flashing red light is in my face and gets my attention IMMEDIATELY. This is helpful when the windows are down or when the radio is loud. Once everything is hooked up working properly, plug the light assembly back in and push it back in place.
[attachmentid=19024]
[attachmentid=19025]
The radar will always be on, it doesn't shut off with the car. The detector though seems to draw very low amperage, I couldn't even shock myself with it. I wouldn't worry about draining the battery.
EDITED TO ADD:
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it.
From here
Undo the two clips holding the overhead light unit up. I used the car key to do it. Just push in and pull down and it pops loose.
[attachmentid=19022]
Unplug the power connector for the light assembly and remove. Now you have to attach the positive lead. The supplied blue 3M connector I found was too big for the wire so I used a smaller red one that I already had. Use the black wire with blue stripe. Make sure you cut the insulation with a blade before attaching to make better contact. Then insert the spade connector from the wire kit. You may notice that some of the other wires here look cut, that was from trial and error :nono:
[attachmentid=19021]
For the ground connection, there is no grounding attachment here for the lug. I tried tapping into the other wires on the map light and for some reason wouldn't work for me.
The easiest thing I found was inserting the grounding lug in between the roof and a metal clip as shown here. It's just held in by friction, but it works good.[attachmentid=19023]
Then tuck in all the extra wiring into the headliner. I like my detector to the right of the mirror. I used the supplied velcro tape to attach the smart button to the mirror. I like it there because the flashing red light is in my face and gets my attention IMMEDIATELY. This is helpful when the windows are down or when the radio is loud. Once everything is hooked up working properly, plug the light assembly back in and push it back in place.
[attachmentid=19024]
[attachmentid=19025]
The radar will always be on, it doesn't shut off with the car. The detector though seems to draw very low amperage, I couldn't even shock myself with it. I wouldn't worry about draining the battery.
EDITED TO ADD:
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it.
4/24/05, 03:23 PM
#3
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I was going to use the same method, but wanted a "switched" power source. I haven't had time to try any other ways to get it right. I would recommend still switching the detector off on the left side. If you have a UDP, switch it off no question. My friend had a Stang with UDPs and he left it on all the time; he went thru a couple of batteries.
4/24/05, 04:49 PM
#4
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
I'm going to be wiring a Honda S2000 engine start button to the dash lighter socket this friday. I'm going to find a power source in there which turns on with the car (probably the radio) and run it up behind the passenger door to the headliner then to the detector.
4/24/05, 04:53 PM
#5
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
How does UDP affect the battery charge?
I mean the car has an alarm that stays on all the time, I would think that would draw more power than a detector.
I mean the car has an alarm that stays on all the time, I would think that would draw more power than a detector.
4/24/05, 05:33 PM
#7
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Originally posted by dustindu4@April 24, 2005, 5:52 PM
I'm going to be wiring a Honda S2000 engine start button to the dash lighter socket this friday. I'm going to find a power source in there which turns on with the car (probably the radio) and run it up behind the passenger door to the headliner then to the detector.
I'm going to be wiring a Honda S2000 engine start button to the dash lighter socket this friday. I'm going to find a power source in there which turns on with the car (probably the radio) and run it up behind the passenger door to the headliner then to the detector.
Cool, if you can once again, please provide some pics. I am terrible at wiring anything electrical. Thanks.
4/24/05, 05:35 PM
#8
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Originally posted by dustindu4@April 24, 2005, 5:56 PM
How does UDP affect the battery charge?
I mean the car has an alarm that stays on all the time, I would think that would draw more power than a detector.
How does UDP affect the battery charge?
I mean the car has an alarm that stays on all the time, I would think that would draw more power than a detector.
A UDP slows down the drive accesories, which affects the alternator. My friend was going on short trips, which didn't fully charge the battery.
4/24/05, 11:00 PM
#9
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Actually with the interior fuse panel being located in the passenger kick panel, it couldn't be easier to find switched sources! I wired my V1 down the passenger a pillar into the passenger kick panel area. From there got a fuse Y adapter (a gizmo that goes into the fuse hole and provides a female jack for the original fuse, a second female jack for a fuse for the accessory and a pigtail to give the juice to the accessory - $10 at auto parts store). The ground I hooked up to the screws that hold the fuse panel to the body, just attached a circular grommet type endpiece to the wire and put it under the nuts.
Works great, engine on - protection on. Engine off - no power draw.
Now then the V1 itself is mounted in the same spot as what was pictured above with the escort, but for my remote, I ran it across to the driver a pillar, down and parked it in the extreme lower corner of the windshield. NOT AT ALL visible from outside of the car from any angle except from straight down the windshield. So from behind or side the fuzz can't see the LEDs lit up all crazy.
Hope this helps someone!
Cheers
Works great, engine on - protection on. Engine off - no power draw.
Now then the V1 itself is mounted in the same spot as what was pictured above with the escort, but for my remote, I ran it across to the driver a pillar, down and parked it in the extreme lower corner of the windshield. NOT AT ALL visible from outside of the car from any angle except from straight down the windshield. So from behind or side the fuzz can't see the LEDs lit up all crazy.
Hope this helps someone!
Cheers
4/25/05, 06:12 AM
#11
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peet
I wired my escort into the passanger side fuse box.
The remote on the escort cord above will only reach to the dash on the passanger side. I wish it would go all the way to the driver's side.
I may switch my hookup to the overhead light to gain some flexibility on where the mute control can go.
I take my escort with me when I leave my car, so on and off is not an issue for me.
I wired my escort into the passanger side fuse box.
The remote on the escort cord above will only reach to the dash on the passanger side. I wish it would go all the way to the driver's side.
I may switch my hookup to the overhead light to gain some flexibility on where the mute control can go.
I take my escort with me when I leave my car, so on and off is not an issue for me.
4/25/05, 09:15 PM
#12
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
MAJOR UPDATE!
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the map lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it and the car will shut the detector off.
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the map lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it and the car will shut the detector off.
4/25/05, 10:24 PM
#13
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Originally posted by dustindu4@April 25, 2005, 10:18 PM
MAJOR UPDATE!
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the map lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it and the car will shut the detector off.
MAJOR UPDATE!
For the past few days I have noticed that when I go unlock the car by hitting unlock on the remote I can hear the detector turn on. I did some problem solving and realized that after I lock the car, about 30 minutes later the power to the detector shuts off. Then I realized that the power feed to the detector also feeds the map lights. I put 2 + 2 together and realized that the car automatically cuts the power to the lights in case you left them on by pushing the button and left the car! That way you don't kill the battery with the map light. BONUS! No need to route the power now to a switched source, just leave it like I wired it and the car will shut the detector off.
How long is the wire for the automute remote switch? I may wire mine opposite of where you put yours and run the wire down the A-pilar to a spot near the factory gauges.
4/25/05, 10:37 PM
#14
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by max2000jp@April 26, 2005, 12:27 AM
You are the man!!! Nice observation, I will wire mine this way.
How long is the wire for the automute remote switch? I may wire mine opposite of where you put yours and run the wire down the A-pilar to a spot near the factory gauges.
You are the man!!! Nice observation, I will wire mine this way.
How long is the wire for the automute remote switch? I may wire mine opposite of where you put yours and run the wire down the A-pilar to a spot near the factory gauges.
I moved the smart button to the very left side of the mirror so it's more in my field of view. Gets my attention a lot better now.
5/3/05, 08:39 PM
#16
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Just a little update. To properly secure the negative terminal I got a short 8x1.25mm bolt and tapped the small hole above the plug socket with a metric tap set I had. I had to buy a bigger loop connector to fit the bolt but it is solid now.
7/6/05, 08:19 AM
#17
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Originally posted by peet@April 25, 2005, 12:03 AM
Actually with the interior fuse panel being located in the passenger kick panel, it couldn't be easier to find switched sources! I wired my V1 down the passenger a pillar into the passenger kick panel area. From there got a fuse Y adapter (a gizmo that goes into the fuse hole and provides a female jack for the original fuse, a second female jack for a fuse for the accessory and a pigtail to give the juice to the accessory - $10 at auto parts store). The ground I hooked up to the screws that hold the fuse panel to the body, just attached a circular grommet type endpiece to the wire and put it under the nuts.
Works great, engine on - protection on. Engine off - no power draw.
Now then the V1 itself is mounted in the same spot as what was pictured above with the escort, but for my remote, I ran it across to the driver a pillar, down and parked it in the extreme lower corner of the windshield. NOT AT ALL visible from outside of the car from any angle except from straight down the windshield. So from behind or side the fuzz can't see the LEDs lit up all crazy.
Hope this helps someone!
Cheers
Actually with the interior fuse panel being located in the passenger kick panel, it couldn't be easier to find switched sources! I wired my V1 down the passenger a pillar into the passenger kick panel area. From there got a fuse Y adapter (a gizmo that goes into the fuse hole and provides a female jack for the original fuse, a second female jack for a fuse for the accessory and a pigtail to give the juice to the accessory - $10 at auto parts store). The ground I hooked up to the screws that hold the fuse panel to the body, just attached a circular grommet type endpiece to the wire and put it under the nuts.
Works great, engine on - protection on. Engine off - no power draw.
Now then the V1 itself is mounted in the same spot as what was pictured above with the escort, but for my remote, I ran it across to the driver a pillar, down and parked it in the extreme lower corner of the windshield. NOT AT ALL visible from outside of the car from any angle except from straight down the windshield. So from behind or side the fuzz can't see the LEDs lit up all crazy.
Hope this helps someone!
Cheers
7/6/05, 09:02 AM
#18
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I need to wire my Roady2 in like this. Should this be as easy as cutting the supplied power cord with the Roady and using one of those spade connectors. I too am horrible at electrical wizardry.