Gentex Homelink Auto-dimming Compass Temperature Mirror Installed
12/18/06, 06:25 PM
#21
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 7, 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I second what Art said, his is an excellent explaination of the temp sensor install. That is just the way I ran the wire for my temp sensor. The wires for the temp sensor plug right into the back of the mirror, as they are powered by the mirror itself. I put my temp sensor it a slightly different place it sounds like though. I put it right in the front middle of the car, under the plastic piece that covers the top of the radiator. It is ahead of the radiator and a/c condensor that way, and I positioned it so that the Mustang emblem on the grill hides it so it can't be seen. This way it is shielded from the sun and wind, but is ahead of the heat in the engine bay. I can also access it very easily if I need to by just popping the plastic radiator cover. The temps it gives are matching exactly with what the aviation weather obsevation station at work is calling, so I know it is accurate. Below are some pics that will hopefully show better what I am trying to explain. It is the little black plastic looking thing under the black plastic cover attached to the silver brace...clear as mud 
12/18/06, 07:17 PM
#23
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I second what Art said, his is an excellent explaination of the temp sensor install. That is just the way I ran the wire for my temp sensor. The wires for the temp sensor plug right into the back of the mirror, as they are powered by the mirror itself. I put my temp sensor it a slightly different place it sounds like though. I put it right in the front middle of the car, under the plastic piece that covers the top of the radiator. It is ahead of the radiator and a/c condensor that way, and I positioned it so that the Mustang emblem on the grill hides it so it can't be seen. This way it is shielded from the sun and wind, but is ahead of the heat in the engine bay. I can also access it very easily if I need to by just popping the plastic radiator cover. The temps it gives are matching exactly with what the aviation weather obsevation station at work is calling, so I know it is accurate. Below are some pics that will hopefully show better what I am trying to explain. It is the little black plastic looking thing under the black plastic cover attached to the silver brace...clear as mud
One more question. Where did you run the wire in the engine bay to get it where you have it now?
Thanks
Rusty
12/18/06, 07:35 PM
#24
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 7, 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you pull off the right front wheel and tire, and then take off the plastic wheel well inner liner, it will all become clear to you. You will be able to see where the wires go through the firewall, and you will see a wire loom that goes to the front towards the grill. Just use plastic zip ties to attach the temp sensor wire loom to that wire loom, and then pull off the top plastic radiator cover, and you will clearly see how you need to run the wires. It will go behind the headlight and foglight and towards the front center of the car. Since I have a 14 month old toddler at home, I don't get a lot of uninterputed time to work, so I ran the temp sensor one day, which with him wanting to help took about and hour, and then tapped into the wiring and finished the mirror install a week later, which took about another hour. If you had no interuptions, you could do the whole thing in around an hour.
12/18/06, 07:35 PM
#25
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 7, 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you pull off the right front wheel and tire, and then take off the plastic wheel well inner liner, it will all become clear to you. You will be able to see where the wires go through the firewall, and you will see a wire loom that goes to the front towards the grill. Just use plastic zip ties to attach the temp sensor wire loom to that wire loom, and then pull off the top plastic radiator cover, and you will clearly see how you need to run the wires. It will go behind the headlight and foglight and towards the front center of the car. Since I have a 14 month old toddler at home, I don't get a lot of uninterputed time to work, so I ran the temp sensor one day, which with him wanting to help took about and hour, and then tapped into the wiring and finished the mirror install a week later, which took about another hour. If you had no interuptions, you could do the whole thing in around an hour.
12/19/06, 02:30 AM
#26
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buster,
Thanks. I appreciate the info. Hopefully if I get it in time will work on installing it on Saturday. I have an 06 GT so I will have to run to the fuse box to get power being I didn't have the upgraded mirror to begin with. The guy I bought it from on ebay said that he had several people with Mustang's put them in themselves with no trouble. He also told me to email him if I had any problems. Anyway, Thanks again for the info. I didn't buy the Mustang for gadgets, but I do love them, and everyone that has one of these really seem to enjoy them.
Rusty
Thanks. I appreciate the info. Hopefully if I get it in time will work on installing it on Saturday. I have an 06 GT so I will have to run to the fuse box to get power being I didn't have the upgraded mirror to begin with. The guy I bought it from on ebay said that he had several people with Mustang's put them in themselves with no trouble. He also told me to email him if I had any problems. Anyway, Thanks again for the info. I didn't buy the Mustang for gadgets, but I do love them, and everyone that has one of these really seem to enjoy them.
Rusty
12/19/06, 12:22 PM
#27
+1 on Buster's 1 hour install time frame.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
12/20/06, 06:27 PM
#28
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1 on Buster's 1 hour install time frame.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Thanks. Is the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap a block? Where did you install it?
Rusty
12/20/06, 06:39 PM
#29
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never mind. I just looked one up on the internet. That is really a great idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Here is one of the links for others interested.
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...th=03.0211.jpg
Thanks again,
Rusty
12/20/06, 06:54 PM
#30
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Art,
Never mind. I just looked one up on the internet. That is really a great idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Here is one of the links for others interested.
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...th=03.0211.jpg
Thanks again,
Rusty
Never mind. I just looked one up on the internet. That is really a great idea. Thanks for sharing it.
Here is one of the links for others interested.
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...th=03.0211.jpg
Thanks again,
Rusty
One more question? Which fuse did you jump off of?
Thanks
Rusty
12/20/06, 08:40 PM
#31
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: October 12, 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1 on Buster's 1 hour install time frame.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
12/20/06, 10:22 PM
#32
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 7, 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Silly question I guess, but if you have a garage, why would you park your Mustang outside?
12/22/06, 09:05 AM
#33
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1 on Buster's 1 hour install time frame.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
Make sure before you start that you go to Kragen's (or some auto parts store like that) and get the "Add a Circuit" fuse tap. I got two, one for the constant power source (required for the Homelink) and another for the switched source. That will make your job go a LOT easier. Running the wiring was easy.
Be careful removing the stock mirror, be sure to pry GENTLY and not against the glass. You'll know what I mean when you see it.
One more thing. Going to install the mirror this weekend. Which fuse locations did you use for "constant power" and for "switched power"? I got the "add a circuits" and I appreciate that info. It really looks like it makes the installation a lot simpler.
Thanks
Rusty
12/22/06, 05:31 PM
#34
I'll check back in a few with the answer!
ChrisM: I was under the impression that if you do NOT have the constant power to the mirror it would lose its memory? (ie, your Homelink code and compass settings) Check me if I am wrong?
12/22/06, 10:20 PM
#35
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: October 12, 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm at work now but I'll pop the cover off when I get out of the office and look.
I'll check back in a few with the answer!
ChrisM: I was under the impression that if you do NOT have the constant power to the mirror it would lose its memory? (ie, your Homelink code and compass settings) Check me if I am wrong?
I'll check back in a few with the answer!
ChrisM: I was under the impression that if you do NOT have the constant power to the mirror it would lose its memory? (ie, your Homelink code and compass settings) Check me if I am wrong?
12/22/06, 10:24 PM
#36
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm at work now but I'll pop the cover off when I get out of the office and look.
I'll check back in a few with the answer!
ChrisM: I was under the impression that if you do NOT have the constant power to the mirror it would lose its memory? (ie, your Homelink code and compass settings) Check me if I am wrong?
I'll check back in a few with the answer!
ChrisM: I was under the impression that if you do NOT have the constant power to the mirror it would lose its memory? (ie, your Homelink code and compass settings) Check me if I am wrong?
Thanks so much.
Rusty
12/22/06, 10:27 PM
#37
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: October 12, 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Little does she know that when the '67 comes back (naked of course but pretty) it gets the parking space in the garage!
12/23/06, 01:49 AM
#38
OK, I made it home. Took a few pix for you as well.
FUSE TAPS: I added two taps - one to Fuse 4 (power mirrors) for the constant power supply wire, and one to Fuse 7 (overdrive cancel) for the switched wire. I have a stick shift yet the "overdrive cancel" was switched hot, so you should be OK using this fuse.
Pic on the left with arrows shows you exactly where I added the fuse taps.
TEMP SENSOR: I clipped the temp sensor to the foam plastic shroud that is in front of the A/C condenser mounting brackets. It isn't necessary for you to take the bumper off like I did in the pic, I was doing other work (installing the HID foglights) and happened to take a snap that shows off the temp sensor. This is an ideal place for the sensor because you don't get much heat soak, and that keeps the mirror readout pretty accurate.
Middle pic with arrows.
Last pic shows finished mirror. Ain't she pretty?
I hope this helps! Let me know if any questions.
FUSE TAPS: I added two taps - one to Fuse 4 (power mirrors) for the constant power supply wire, and one to Fuse 7 (overdrive cancel) for the switched wire. I have a stick shift yet the "overdrive cancel" was switched hot, so you should be OK using this fuse.
Pic on the left with arrows shows you exactly where I added the fuse taps.
TEMP SENSOR: I clipped the temp sensor to the foam plastic shroud that is in front of the A/C condenser mounting brackets. It isn't necessary for you to take the bumper off like I did in the pic, I was doing other work (installing the HID foglights) and happened to take a snap that shows off the temp sensor. This is an ideal place for the sensor because you don't get much heat soak, and that keeps the mirror readout pretty accurate.
Middle pic with arrows.
Last pic shows finished mirror. Ain't she pretty?
I hope this helps! Let me know if any questions.
12/23/06, 05:35 AM
#39
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, I made it home. Took a few pix for you as well.
FUSE TAPS: I added two taps - one to Fuse 4 (power mirrors) for the constant power supply wire, and one to Fuse 7 (overdrive cancel) for the switched wire. I have a stick shift yet the "overdrive cancel" was switched hot, so you should be OK using this fuse.
Pic on the left with arrows shows you exactly where I added the fuse taps.
TEMP SENSOR: I clipped the temp sensor to the foam plastic shroud that is in front of the A/C condenser mounting brackets. It isn't necessary for you to take the bumper off like I did in the pic, I was doing other work (installing the HID foglights) and happened to take a snap that shows off the temp sensor. This is an ideal place for the sensor because you don't get much heat soak, and that keeps the mirror readout pretty accurate.
Middle pic with arrows.
Last pic shows finished mirror. Ain't she pretty?
I hope this helps! Let me know if any questions.
FUSE TAPS: I added two taps - one to Fuse 4 (power mirrors) for the constant power supply wire, and one to Fuse 7 (overdrive cancel) for the switched wire. I have a stick shift yet the "overdrive cancel" was switched hot, so you should be OK using this fuse.
Pic on the left with arrows shows you exactly where I added the fuse taps.
TEMP SENSOR: I clipped the temp sensor to the foam plastic shroud that is in front of the A/C condenser mounting brackets. It isn't necessary for you to take the bumper off like I did in the pic, I was doing other work (installing the HID foglights) and happened to take a snap that shows off the temp sensor. This is an ideal place for the sensor because you don't get much heat soak, and that keeps the mirror readout pretty accurate.
Middle pic with arrows.
Last pic shows finished mirror. Ain't she pretty?
I hope this helps! Let me know if any questions.
Man, I didn't mean for you to go to all that trouble but I sure appreciate the pictures and the information. It really helped me out. You and these forums have been so valuable and have saved me a good bit of money. I couldn't have justified this mirror for what the dealership wanted. Through this forum; found the mirror on Ebay and got the help to install. Can't beat that. I really appreciate the "extra mile" you went on this to get the information and the pictures.
Thanks again.
Rusty
12/23/06, 07:58 PM
#40
V6 Member
Join Date: October 4, 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank You
Craig and Art,
Wanted to thank you both for posting the information that you have on this thread about installing the Homelink mirror. Installed it today. With your advise it made it a breeze. I am so happy with this mirror. It is amazing to watch it "dim down" and bright lights are no longer a problem. Everything worked great.
Again, Thanks for the time, the pictures and the advice. It was very much appreciated.
Rusty
Wanted to thank you both for posting the information that you have on this thread about installing the Homelink mirror. Installed it today. With your advise it made it a breeze. I am so happy with this mirror. It is amazing to watch it "dim down" and bright lights are no longer a problem. Everything worked great.
Again, Thanks for the time, the pictures and the advice. It was very much appreciated.
Rusty