2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Do-It-Myself Rustproofing

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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Question Do-It-Myself Rustproofing

I want to keep my car for 7+ years in perfect condition, so I'm thinking about ramping up my new '07 Mustang, sanding off any light rust I find underneath, then painting all exposed metal surfaces with Rustoleum Stops-Rust Clean Metal Primer (7780), then painting over that with Rustoleum Stops-Rust Protective Enamel Gloss Black (7779) ... is this a good idea? TIA
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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somebody did a whole writup using POR-15 ( or something like that ) I will try to find the link.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 05:43 PM
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sounds like a great idea
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Sounds like a great idea to me.

If I were going to keep my current Pony for the long haul I would have done this, but considering the Bullitt is coming I'm going to wait to do it on that car instead.

Are you planning on taking apart some of the rear assembly so you can get into the nooks and crannies?
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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I wish I knew how to take it apart!!! Right now it just looks like I'm going to do that to whatever metal I can see and easily access ...

Originally Posted by Little Black Pony
Sounds like a great idea to me.
Are you planning on taking apart some of the rear assembly so you can get into the nooks and crannies?
Does anyone know if I need to use Rustoleum's Cold Galvanizing Compound instead of the Clean Metal Primer, since the metals in our stangs are suppoed to be galvanized?
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Then again there's Rustbullet with a ten-year guarantee - and a one-step solution??
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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I did a frame with Rustoleum. Two years later (while the truck was still being put back together in my garage), I had to strip all of the Rustoleum and re-painted it with POR15. The Rustoelum was peeling and popping. The POR 15 has held well. But, I've had problems with the POR15 on other things. Make sure you put it over metal that doesn't have any other paints on it or it will peel as well.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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So anyways the Rustoleum is going back to the store. It says "Do not apply to galvanized metal."
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:02 PM
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Since most of the underbody has some coating or paint, POR-15 won't work well unless you strip the metal parts.

What else can we use that is KNOWN to work on painted surfaces?
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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Well, more exactly, I'm looking for something that will protect the galvanized metal surfaces underneath my car ...
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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I've always used Tremclad high gloss black on my Camaro (which I traded in after 10 years). It works great, doesn't peel, needs no prep work if the rust is only surface. I "touched it up" as required every 2 years.

Always looks great and easy to keep clean.

Hope this helps,


Mike
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cookiemonster
Well, more exactly, I'm looking for something that will protect the galvanized metal surfaces underneath my car ...
If you're looking for protection, just spray a coating of some kind of clear protective oil to coat things with, and that way you will get into those nooks & crannies also.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Giddyup
If you're looking for protection, just spray a coating of some kind of clear protective oil to coat things with, and that way you will get into those nooks & crannies also.
How long will the oil last though?
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by hp246
I did a frame with Rustoleum. Two years later (while the truck was still being put back together in my garage), I had to strip all of the Rustoleum and re-painted it with POR15. The Rustoelum was peeling and popping. The POR 15 has held well. But, I've had problems with the POR15 on other things. Make sure you put it over metal that doesn't have any other paints on it or it will peel as well.
I wish I remember the link, but I read that the Rustoleum will strip off the oil part of the galvanizing from your metal as it was finished from the factory ... so plain Rustoleum = bad idea!
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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Not all of the underbody is galvanized... There are some parts that are painted and others are powdercoated.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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I'm confused. Isn't the point of galvanizing to prevent rust? Those parts should dull and become gray (the oxidized zinc), but rust should be a long way off on a galvanized part. What parts are galvanized?
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by backafter20
I'm confused. Isn't the point of galvanizing to prevent rust? Those parts should dull and become gray (the oxidized zinc), but rust should be a long way off on a galvanized part. What parts are galvanized?
People have been saying the factory hot-dipping, galvanized coatings, and other fancy rustproofing methods are "good enough" for the past 30 years. I've seen PLENTY of totally rusted out cars made after the 80s. I just saw a 98-up Taurus with a hood that was entirely covered in rust. Don't forget the 80s and 90s American/Japanese cars with fenders that are rotting away.

Galvanized pipes WILL rust. Anything powdercoated is good until the coating comes off. The point of paint is to seal off the metal from air and moisture. Rocks and other debris can chip away at the powdercoating and paint, and don't tell me that galvanized metals don't rust because I have some very clogged up galvanized pipes to show you
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cookiemonster
How long will the oil last though?
Well, it's certainly not going to be permanent, but if you change your own motor oil, it should be something to do once a year or every other year I would think..... I was just thinking of something that would be relatively easy for the do-it-yourselfer
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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Never used it myself, but have heard that you can use the same coating they use to line pickup truck beds as a rust proof coating, I think if you do an internet search you might find some info on it.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 01:23 AM
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I did the rustoleum thing when I first got mine.



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