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So I read up online that the cause of my battery dying could be that the radio CD Tray is constantly spinning and shuffling CDs even if there aren’t CDs in the radio! I read that the fuse #56 under the hood taking it out could fix the issue, so I went ahead and took out #56 fuse and it fixed the radio from spinning the CDs but it does kill the power to the radio totally. So if you pull #56 you get no radio in the car at all. Which I took the fuse out and I took the stock radio out, and left it like that for a couple days. I ordered a new radio and when it was time to put in the new radio the car was dead again. I am lost as to what it could be killing the battery. The dome lights and everything shut off, and I still am not sure about the whole security alarm killing it? But any ideas on what it could be?
If pulling the #56 fuse isn't resolving your battery issues, you can pretty much rule out the shaker 500/1000. As for the security system, there are 2 different OEM systems, there's the passive and active. The active security system includes motion and incline sensors where as the passive system does not. If your car has the active security system, the sensors are constantly running in the background drawing current. Therefore the best way to prevent the sensors from constantly running, is by deactivating them. If you lock up your vehicle by manually pressing the door locks, rather than use the keyfob or key, this will prevent the motion and incline sensors from activating. If however your car does not have the active security system? make certain to check the manufacturer date of the replacement battery before purchasing. If the above steps taken still do not resolve your battery issues? then I suggest having your electrical system checked by an authorized Ford dealer service center for excessive current draw.
So this is in the cars information window sticker. Seems like to me that my car does not have the auto active anti theft package on it.
is there anyway to check or really know? I do know that there is a little red light that blinks on the dash when the car is locked via fob or key. But that could just be the passive.
As for the battery manufacturer date, there was a sticker on it when I bought it saying 4/20, not sure if that’s just they put those stickers on there when you buy it so you know when you got one or if that’s the manufactured date.
Last edited by ShelbyStang05; 4/26/20 at 09:51 AM.
If your car has the optional premium package? it should already have the active anti-theft system included. If on the other hand, it has just the standard package? then your car has just the passive anti-theft system. IIRC, the active anti-theft system may also be included as an option if the car is ordered with the deluxe package, but I can't say for certain. Best way is to check your vehicle's window sticker and VIN number to determine if your car is equipped with the standard, deluxe or premium package. If still not sure? check with your local Ford dealer. As for the red flashing light blinking in the dash, that's from the passive anti-theft system. The active anti-theft system operates the perimeter inclination and intrusion alarms.
On this same sheet it says up at the top that it is a GT coupe premium. But in that category for safety/security it has Active theft as an Option or (O) and front seat side air bag as an Option (O), only one selected or circled in this section is the Anti lock brakes w/ traction.
After checking my window sticker, the active anti-theft security system is an additional $295.00 option. Therefore I stand corrected, as it is not included as part of the GT premium package. Also according to your window sticker, it appears your car doesn't have the active anti-theft system, otherwise, it would've been selected/circled. Despite the fact that my car is a 2006 GT coupe premium, the active anti-theft security system was an additional $295.00 option. That being said, I suggest you have your car's electrical system checked by your local Ford dealer's service center for excessive current draw as mentioned earlier in a previous post. Also consider having your alternator checked as well.
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 4/26/20 at 03:45 PM.
The best way to check for motion sensors is to roll the driver side window down. Lock the car with your key fob. Then stick you arm inside the car an wave it around. The sensors are up next to the map lights. Moving your arm around inside the car should set off the alarm.
Another way is to lock the car with the key fob and then jack up one corner. The alarm should also go off.
According to the OP's window sticker, his vehicle does not have the optional anti-theft active security system, but rather has the standard anti-theft passive system which doesn't include inclination/motion sensors. If his car does have the active anti-theft security system? then his window sticker info is either incorrect or someone from the sales dept made an error during the vehicle order process
Until the OP has his electrical system and alternator tested, nobody can say for certain what exactly is causing his batteries to discharge after just a couple of days. All we do know, is he pulled radio fuse #56 which didn't help. He also does not have an aftermarket alarm system as you had, but has the factory passive anti-theft security system which does not have the incline/motion sensors as the optional "OEM" active anti-theft system has. Therefore something else from within the factory electrical system is causing excessive parasitic draw.
. . . As for the battery manufacturer date, there was a sticker on it when I bought it saying 4/20, . . .
there's the problem! some stoner's idea of a joke . . . ???
but seriously, I think you are going to need professional help; from a shop that has the diagnostic equipment to isolate the current draw . . . or you can do it yourself with the right meter, checking one fuse holder at a time, but it's a very tedious job
As for the battery manufacturer date, there was a sticker on it when I bought it saying 4/20
Originally Posted by Bert
there's the problem! some stoner's idea of a joke . . . ???
Originally Posted by Bert,7050615
but seriously, I think you are going to need professional help; from a shop that has the diagnostic equipment to isolate the current draw . . . or you can do it yourself with the right meter, checking one fuse holder at a time, but it's a very tedious job
4/25/20, 04:17 PM
100% spot on.