CHE Anti Squat Bracket question
CHE Anti Squat Bracket question
So I finally got around to installing my CHE Anti Squat brackets today along with my Steeda Rear Sway bar, however there is one thing that is kind of bothering me the factory bolt that gets reused on the bottom hole for the LCA seems to me to not be long enough as it barely protrudes from the end of the nut cap. Is this how everyone else is and am I just being overly paranoid?
I used brand new bolts since i had previously removed them to install my LCA awhile back. I compared them with the old ones and they are the exact same. I checked and rechecked the CHE directions and even went onto their site to triple check and it does say to use them in the location that i did.But man it just seems to me as though not enough of the bolt is through the nutcap.
I used brand new bolts since i had previously removed them to install my LCA awhile back. I compared them with the old ones and they are the exact same. I checked and rechecked the CHE directions and even went onto their site to triple check and it does say to use them in the location that i did.But man it just seems to me as though not enough of the bolt is through the nutcap.
Last edited by 06GT4RAD; May 19, 2008 at 07:36 PM.
I have them installed but I do not recall that the stock bolt was noticably short through the nut. They torqued down OK and I haven't had problem with them since and it's been about 5 months give or take ??
I do not need a Hardware 101 lesson. I am trying to hear what others who have the CHE Brackets have.
I find it hard to believe that CHE would supply me with bolts that are to short. And they are about the same as the stock bolts as you can see from my pictures.
One problem with getting some other bolts is, First I should not have to, Second my concern is getting the proper bolts for the application.
Getting suspension bolts at Ace Hardware/Home Depot etc... does not sit well with me.
I would hope that CHE would have supplied me with the bolts that were long enough and if longer ones are required. Then they should supply them to me.
Sorry to sound like an *** but I simply am not in the mood for smart *** replies. I get so sick of that when people are trying to get answers to thier issues. And it's not just this forum or you in particular it seem to be that way on most forums and I get sick and tired of that. Not to just me but to others that are trying to get help.
If you cannot answer the speicifc question at hand and give someone help and only choose to give a smart *** reply
Then DON'T!!
The bolts CHE supplies you with are the ones that hold the bracket in place. You use the Ford bolts for holding in the control arm. Correct?
Ill go crawl under my car while I await a reply and look at mine.
Ill go crawl under my car while I await a reply and look at mine.
I dunno, didn't seem like a "Smart-*** reply" to me (and I'm not the poster). As an engineer with over 25 years of experience, it seemed like helpful advice. If you want to do what everyone else did, even if it might be uninformed and/or wrong, go ahead and poll the group. If it was me, the first thing I'd do is call CHE... but that's just me. And I'd still follow the "two threads" guideline no matter what CHE said.
PS: For anybody who really wants to know the answers to 99% of the general tech questions encountered when we mod our cars, I would recommend looking at some of the books authored by Carroll Smith, especially his Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook.
http://www.carrollsmith.com/main.html
I was always under the impression that it was the clamping force that actually mattered. I mean sure you dont want to be using only one or two threads, but as long as your bolt is threaded all the way through the nut (or even a thread or two away from portruding through for such a wide nut) and provided you can torque to spec does it really matter wether it came through the nut by 2 threads or a hundred?
Not trying to sound rude at all, just wondering if my logic is flawed here.
Not trying to sound rude at all, just wondering if my logic is flawed here.
I was always under the impression that it was the clamping force that actually mattered. I mean sure you dont want to be using only one or two threads, but as long as your bolt is threaded all the way through the nut (or even a thread or two away from portruding through for such a wide nut) and provided you can torque to spec does it really matter wether it came through the nut by 2 threads or a hundred?
Not trying to sound rude at all, just wondering if my logic is flawed here.
Not trying to sound rude at all, just wondering if my logic is flawed here.
Richard,
As long as the nylon locking portion of the locknut is engaged, which it appears to be, the nut will not loosen.
There seems to be a popular misconception that the control arm bolts are torque to yield. I believe this is because the shop manual states to use new fasteners each time (a protection from liability if somebody re-uses an old rusty bolt that can no longer support the intended application). A torque to yield bolt is first torqued to a specific torque and then rotated 1/2 turn. During the 1/2 turn the bolt actually stretches resulting in a built in torque value. Torque to yield bolts are almost exclusively used on cylinder heads where over-torqueing can result in cylinder head gasket failure.
Thanks for contacting us regarding this, and please let me know if there is anything further.
As long as the nylon locking portion of the locknut is engaged, which it appears to be, the nut will not loosen.
There seems to be a popular misconception that the control arm bolts are torque to yield. I believe this is because the shop manual states to use new fasteners each time (a protection from liability if somebody re-uses an old rusty bolt that can no longer support the intended application). A torque to yield bolt is first torqued to a specific torque and then rotated 1/2 turn. During the 1/2 turn the bolt actually stretches resulting in a built in torque value. Torque to yield bolts are almost exclusively used on cylinder heads where over-torqueing can result in cylinder head gasket failure.
Thanks for contacting us regarding this, and please let me know if there is anything further.
Mine looks the same also, except that I put the flag nut up top where it came from, and the nut down below, where I could grab it with a wrench as opposed to trying to hold the flag nut.
Yeah what a PITA that was. Had to use a open end wrench on it to stop it from spinning. I just installed them the way CHE said to. If I had to do it over I would most likley do it the way you did as well.
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