Teksid vs Cast Iron block
Teksid vs Cast Iron block
I'm a little confused I thought the 99-01 Cobras had the Teksid block I know the 03-04 Terminators run a iron block. I called LMR to get pricing on a forged Crank and internals I planned on using my stock block but maybe stroking it to 5.0 and putting boost to it. LMR told me my block wouldn't be very durable. I thought these block could hold 1,000hp. Should I just look for a terminator block or can my block hold the power? I hope for 600 hp with boost and stroker
Well.... you'd be better off with the FRPP 5.0 cast iron block if you can swing the money and they aren't that expensive, check around and see what you can get one for.
If your going for a 5.0 you'd make better power on the bigger bore as this improves cylinder head flow by unshrouding the valves plus piston speed will be slower and you can get a better rod to stroke ratio.
Or
You can take a 5.0 stroker kit for the 4.6 and get a 5.3 and still maintain the advantage of a bigger bore.
If your going for a 5.0 you'd make better power on the bigger bore as this improves cylinder head flow by unshrouding the valves plus piston speed will be slower and you can get a better rod to stroke ratio.
Or
You can take a 5.0 stroker kit for the 4.6 and get a 5.3 and still maintain the advantage of a bigger bore.
Well.... you'd be better off with the FRPP 5.0 cast iron block if you can swing the money and they aren't that expensive, check around and see what you can get one for.
If your going for a 5.0 you'd make better power on the bigger bore as this improves cylinder head flow by unshrouding the valves plus piston speed will be slower and you can get a better rod to stroke ratio.
Or
You can take a 5.0 stroker kit for the 4.6 and get a 5.3 and still maintain the advantage of a bigger bore.
If your going for a 5.0 you'd make better power on the bigger bore as this improves cylinder head flow by unshrouding the valves plus piston speed will be slower and you can get a better rod to stroke ratio.
Or
You can take a 5.0 stroker kit for the 4.6 and get a 5.3 and still maintain the advantage of a bigger bore.
Huh???? You make more power with a bigger bore because you can add more fuel and air. Anytime you can add fuel and air you will make more power and the only way to improve cylinder head flow is to port and polish and use bigger valves. And the only way to put a 5.0 or 5.3 stroker kit in a 4.6 is to bore out the cylinders which brings the displacement to 5.0 or 5.3
For a $1,500 investment (plus an existing aluminum modular block), you can turn any 4.6 modular block rebuild into a big-bore 5.0. John and Mike Tymensky of Modular Performance can bore and resleeve any Ford modular aluminum block to big-bore specs (3.55-inch bore to 3.70-inch). Downtime is typically only three to four weeks. Besides netting an additional 24 ci, the major advantage of going big bore is that the valves unshroud themselves from the heads and cylinder walls-allowing for increased airflow at all lifts. More specifically, increasing the bore size from 3.55 inches (stock) to 3.70 inches (big bore) will allow the same DOHC head to flow approximately 20-30 cfm more than it would have on a stock-bore motor.
Read more: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...#ixzz2gIzM3eEK
Read more: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...#ixzz2gIzM3eEK
Your also not going to get a 5.3 from just boring out a 4.6, you either have to sleeve the engine or move to a block that already has the bigger bore designed in such as the FRPP block which has a 3.700" bore.
There is no way you can get a 3.700" bore out of stock 4.6, at best you could probably get a 3.572 or 3.582 overbore (and its my understanding that the 4.6 block really doesn't do well with anything more than an .010 overbore - just enough to clean things up)
In order to get a 5.3 you have to use a 3.700 bore x 3.750 stroke.
So, it takes roughly 1.7 cfm to generate 1 hp, by going with a big bore block (all things being equal except bore vs. stroke) per the cited article above a big bore engine of equal displacement will have an 11 to 17 horsepower advantage over its small bore counterpart and it can get better from there as shorter stroke engines typically have less rod angularity and sidewall loading which frees up horsepower due to less friction.
Last edited by bob; Sep 29, 2013 at 12:05 PM.
Ok I've started a parts list mostly from Lethal performance.
Block 1350.00 LMR
Crank 900.00
Rods. 1600.00 Manley I beam
Pistons 770.00 Manley 8.3 compression ratio
Rings 200.00
Cam valve spring and retainer 1,780.00
Cam drive kit 500.00
High performance oil pump 415.00
Windage tray 75.00
7qt oil pan 330.00
If you see anything I may have missed please let me know
Block 1350.00 LMR
Crank 900.00
Rods. 1600.00 Manley I beam
Pistons 770.00 Manley 8.3 compression ratio
Rings 200.00
Cam valve spring and retainer 1,780.00
Cam drive kit 500.00
High performance oil pump 415.00
Windage tray 75.00
7qt oil pan 330.00
If you see anything I may have missed please let me know
You might want to check into that, anytime you move the bore away from the valves the heads will pick up flow (or in the case of a hemi or canted valve engine, the valve is angled in such a way that it does not move parallel to the cylinder wall and instead moves away from it).
The OP didn't say anything about porting and polishing or installing bigger valves. My recommendation (an FRPP 5.0 block) is based around the advantage of using a bigger bore and in a 5.0 displacement the benefit of maintaining the stock stoke which helps with rod angularity and piston speed or in the case of a stroker, maximizing displacement which does all sorts of good things with power under the curve.
Your also not going to get a 5.3 from just boring out a 4.6, you either have to sleeve the engine or move to a block that already has the bigger bore designed in such as the FRPP block which has a 3.700" bore.
There is no way you can get a 3.700" bore out of stock 4.6, at best you could probably get a 3.572 or 3.582 overbore (and its my understanding that the 4.6 block really doesn't do well with anything more than an .010 overbore - just enough to clean things up)
In order to get a 5.3 you have to use a 3.700 bore x 3.750 stroke.
So, it takes roughly 1.7 cfm to generate 1 hp, by going with a big bore block (all things being equal except bore vs. stroke) per the cited article above a big bore engine of equal displacement will have an 11 to 17 horsepower advantage over its small bore counterpart and it can get better from there as shorter stroke engines typically have less rod angularity and sidewall loading which frees up horsepower due to less friction.
Ok I've started a parts list mostly from Lethal performance.
Block 1350.00 LMR
Crank 900.00
Rods. 1600.00 Manley I beam
Pistons 770.00 Manley 8.3 compression ratio
Rings 200.00
Cam valve spring and retainer 1,780.00
Cam drive kit 500.00
High performance oil pump 415.00
Windage tray 75.00
7qt oil pan 330.00
If you see anything I may have missed please let me know
Block 1350.00 LMR
Crank 900.00
Rods. 1600.00 Manley I beam
Pistons 770.00 Manley 8.3 compression ratio
Rings 200.00
Cam valve spring and retainer 1,780.00
Cam drive kit 500.00
High performance oil pump 415.00
Windage tray 75.00
7qt oil pan 330.00
If you see anything I may have missed please let me know
I've got a buddy who did the 5.0 block with stroker crank after he popped the engine in his Terminator, even with a ported HEaton on it the car down right fast.
When you get it together and tuned post up some hero runs on a dyno if you can.
When you get it together and tuned post up some hero runs on a dyno if you can.
Ok my hope is to get it running with cams and a cam drive kit from lethal then buy the block and start buying parts. I want to use my cobra heads to save money. Who is good at tuning in Dallas Tx area? I hope to be done by the time track season starts again
Saturday was the happiest/saddest day of my Car loving life. So my friend and I got my car back together and running (by the way the brake booster is a pain in the butt to put back on) anyway we put his snap on scan tool checking for any codes and everything comes back clean. (My day is going perfect) so we go for a test drive running diagnostics (big F-ing smile) everything is great. So my buddy says those famous words GET ON IT LETS SEE WHAT SHE WILL DO!!!! So of course I do and in the process I snap the input shaft in the Transmission! SMDH!!!
Will upgrading to the 6speed make a noticeable difference that warrants $3,000. This price includes clutch,Trans and driveshaft. I will probably upgrade the flywheel and u-joints maybe 3:73 gears if funds allow it
Have you tried Dallas Mustang?



