Mestizo

I'm looking at updating my aftermarket stereo system. The previous owner has installed a CD player, subs, amp, and speakers.

The speakers suck so they'll be the first to go, but in the past I've had problems with battery and alternator problems.

My problem in the past(with my other car) was that that the aftermarket amp would weaken the connection between the negative terimal cable and the battery post, causing air and other elements to cause corrosion on the negative terminal. Result....dead starts.

I'm pretty much set on getting a Red or Yellow top Optima battery. Right now I still got the original Motorcraft stock 2000 battery with 82K on it. But to optimize the bettery's results I should probably upgrade the alternator, correct?

I'm just curious how many amps are the stock GT alternators, and what battery alternator combination should I be looking at and account for the stereo equipment. After doing some research these things are pricey, so I don't wanna buy a 200 amp for no reason(I probably won't need that kind of power).

Thanks!

Scothew

I want to say stock amp is 105amp but I could be wrong.

In my 96 and my previous 00 gt, i ran large 600w rms (1000w peak) amp to my sub, the 3 amps for the mach460, headunit and a indash graphic eq/crossover and never had a problem with lights dimming or anything. I would suggest at least a 1fared capacitor wired in.

In Milstang's old 99 vert gt, we had a very custom stereo system and we had no problems out of it as far as the battery goes. We didnt upgrade anything, just again ran a good 1 fared cap.

Also I dont understand what you mean by the amp would weaking the connection between the negative battery terminal cable and the battery post. That just sounds like a loose connection.

Your amp shouldnt be grounded or even hooked to the negative on the battery, it should have its own ground wire straight to the amp or your power distribution block. For best results, try not to have no more than 3ft of ground wire between your amps and the ground. Also the larger the wire, the better.

Mestizo

Ding...that's it. Basically I went to Circuit City had them install it, and had more problems than I had ever wanted.

I had bought those "Street Wires" or something like that, the one that has the fuse box, so if there's a surge of power the fuse blows out protecting the battery.

For some reason I could never get that negative terminal tight again.....on the Mustang I haven't had this problem. But in the past it had happened on my last car. Just trying not to repeat those same mistakes.

Scothew

Well on the positive wire comign from the battery, you want a fuse inline, no more than 12" from the terminal. You dont want to hook your amp ground to the negative battery terminal. It needs to be grounded to the body somewhere near the amp in the back. The shorter the ground the better.

Mestizo

I think next time I'll stay away from Circuit City and do it myself, stereo is probably my best asset as far as car knowledge.

Back to the alternators though....I saw MM&FF added a 190 amp alternator, but of course they ran like 2 amps(like a 1200W and a 600W) and like 6 speakers(May 2005).

I guess I'm still unclear as to what amperage I should be looking at. I really only wanna run 1 amp 300W. Along with the 4 speakers, and minor performance upgrades.

It seems like I shouldn't need a 190 amp alternator, but it doesn't seem like there's an availability of them

Also.....I noticed some aftermarket alternators suggested not switching pullies.

Scothew

You will be fine. Im running a 1,000w kicker amp (600w rms) and battery/alt upgrades. it works perfectly.

Mestizo

What's the alternator amp rating?

Scothew

whatever is stock. I meant to say without any battery/alt upgrades.