4.6 sohc hesitation at idle and sometimes acceleration
#1
4.6 sohc hesitation at idle and sometimes acceleration
When you accelerate you can sometimes feel the car slug like move forward and back an hesitation at idle revs fine then revs randomly drop cars slightly missing
Is the YouTube like to the rpm drop please help thank you!!!
Is the YouTube like to the rpm drop please help thank you!!!
#6
No I haven't, or touched the iac, I hear there is a special lubricant coating in there, you damage it when you clean it I'm sure it works for a bit yea but then will dirty up?, and luckily my car hasn't died, I know it's not a fuel issue, cause my fuel pump died 2 weeks ago an got it replaced I think maybe possible my coils are not working properly? Or would they just not work at all, and I know there is no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks just fixed my exhaust no sound from the front all flows to the rear, when the engines cold she runs great but warms up she starts hesitating
#7
My 95 GT does the same thing while ideling as well, except mines even worse than that. Never had it die on me though. Everywhere I looked, and who ever I talked to told me it was an IAC valve. I haven't put the new one in yet so I don't know the out come. But, when it's hesitating like that, unplug your IAC and see if it stops.
#12
New update I added an entire bottle of sea foam to a half tank of regular fuel, and then added 25$ of mid grade, my car for the most part was running smoother, when it tried to idle down it didn't and stayed at normal idle but I have noticed when it is running good like that my idles sorta jump, so iac cleaning would help, or just a new iac I'm Guna run it low on fuel tomorrow and fill it back up with regular
#14
Definitely could be your coils. They do go bad but continue to at least do something. I remember having 3 out of 8 coils going bad and I dynoed at 310hp. Replaced the coils and boom jumped to 325hp. Don't buy excel coils. Buy the oem coils. It could also be that your car is not happy on regular gas. It may be too low of an octane. Try running a few tanks of Exxon 93 octane through your car and see how it runs. Your timing could be slightly too retarded. Your mas and iac valves could be bad. Your injectors could be clogged. There are many different things that could be causing the issue. Mine only does the rpm drop when my Air compressor cuts on and off. I'd hate to suggest something this obvious but it could be you are noticing this with your ac or defrost on... Hope this helps
#15
I think my problem is opposite to your a/c, when I turn my ac on or defrost the car changes idle yes, but seems to like running like that a lot more when I accelerate you feel the power and that with it off the same thing but after a while notice it lose power under load, but defrost or a c on it seems to like it better
#16
Ill be honest in saying that's really odd that your motor would run smoother and have more power with your ac on... The ac would reduce horsepower l... I'd definitely look l into your mas and iac valve... There is special cleaners for them but I'd just recommend replacing them. Also look into buying injector cleaner too. And test all your coils. Hope this helps. Let us know if one of these things make a difference... Do the girl a favor too and take her off of regular gas, or at least get gas at a high end station like BP, Exxon, Or Sunoco.
#17
Ahh I'm gunna look into getting a new iac and I was thinking using sea foam, through the break booster? And also I wish I had those gas stations I'm in manitoba, Canada. We got fuel octane from 87 - 92. I'm Guna switch to mid grade it's around 89-91 octain. See how that goes I wish i could work on this outside but I don't have a garage and it's winter, -30 outside lol I have been doing some things I added stp fuel cleaner into a tank of fuel seems to respond abit nicer, but abit off topic question.
I recently had my clutch replaced, still under warranty. They installed a new clutch kid, she shift nice but when I'm driving down the hwy, going 115 - 130 km/h. Or faster I put my hand on my shifter and feel a sorta pulsation like it's vibrating and then lightly then heavier then lightly only when I exceed higher speeds it does this, they did take my drive shaft off yes, but never replace my u joints could this be the problem, and also I hear this light squeezing, when I'm in a drive through, I push on my clutch, and it goes away, I've put over 10,000 on the clutch the way it is but have warranty still should I be takin my car back and get them to look through it??
I recently had my clutch replaced, still under warranty. They installed a new clutch kid, she shift nice but when I'm driving down the hwy, going 115 - 130 km/h. Or faster I put my hand on my shifter and feel a sorta pulsation like it's vibrating and then lightly then heavier then lightly only when I exceed higher speeds it does this, they did take my drive shaft off yes, but never replace my u joints could this be the problem, and also I hear this light squeezing, when I'm in a drive through, I push on my clutch, and it goes away, I've put over 10,000 on the clutch the way it is but have warranty still should I be takin my car back and get them to look through it??
#18
The vibration you feel in your shifter is inevitable at higher speeds with the stock u-joints and driveshaft. The squeaking on the other hand is your throughout bearing in constant contact with your pressure plate. There is supposed to be a small gap between the two... If you have an aftermarket adjustable clutch cable, firewall adjuster, adjustable clutch quadrant, or any of them in combination this would explain it. You would need to install the clutch free-play spring kit. If this is not the case then The other possibility would be that they did not have your flywheel resurfaced when they installed the new clutch. Either way its not something that you can take care of in the cold outside. I would definitely take the car back and have them check it out.
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Antigini-GT/CS
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