shaking steering wheel
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From: Insane
If the alignment is correct, and the tires are balanced, then the problem is the rotors are severely warped, and worse on the right side, which will drag and cause the pull.
The pull could also be bad bushings, tie rod ends, rack... but the wobble, especially braking, given other things are "ok" as described, definitely rotors. Take 'em off, see if they can be shaved, and if not, then replace.
The pull could also be bad bushings, tie rod ends, rack... but the wobble, especially braking, given other things are "ok" as described, definitely rotors. Take 'em off, see if they can be shaved, and if not, then replace.
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Joined: December 14, 2007
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
I thought about calipers also as I've had that issue on my F150. But the fact it only happens at a certain speed range puzzles me.
Wait - I think I'm thinking of the other thread where he had replaced rotors and pads and had problems at highway speed only.
Wait - I think I'm thinking of the other thread where he had replaced rotors and pads and had problems at highway speed only.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jun 29, 2013 at 06:03 PM.
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From: Insane
Um, pads are major. As are the calipers if they're siezed, and the rotors if they're warped.
If you need pads, then you've found your answer, man. Time for a full brake job. Bet it all stops there. Wobbling wheel is rather basic stuff. Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels, tires. That's it. Now go fix it.
If you need pads, then you've found your answer, man. Time for a full brake job. Bet it all stops there. Wobbling wheel is rather basic stuff. Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels, tires. That's it. Now go fix it.
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From: Insane
It can also be termed "wobbles like crazy" and mean the same thing, ok? The points have been made. You'll drive yourself insane trying to group hive mind the solution, the best course is to just get out there and figure it out now.
The biggest clues were in your first post and point to the problem right out:
That, coupled with your allegation of the suspension being perfect, as well as the steering being perfect, and the wheels and tires being perfect, mean there is ONLY one thing: The brakes. And at this point, you must suspect the calipers, pads and the rotors, in total. And since you said the pads are needing replacement, that could very well mean the calipers are at their last extension, and could be locking up/dragging/not returning/not backing away on their being so extended on one side, the right side. That, coupled with the possibility that one or more pad could be down to metal for all we know, and is actually eating the rotor on one side would possibily produce a severe yaw, and if the rivets are exposed, it could be a severe drag issue at that point as they bump and plonk along scraping up against the rotor.
So. There ya go. Without putting hands on the car, that's the likeliest scenario I've come up with. Only thing left is to either take the wheels and tires off and inspect the brakes, or take it somewhere and have it figured out.
Either way, good dang luck to ya, man.
The biggest clues were in your first post and point to the problem right out:
My 89 gt convertible steering wheel shakes and it pulls to the right i need some help on the diagnosis of what is going on any help would be appreciated
It starts doing it at 20 mph and gets real bad while braking
It starts doing it at 20 mph and gets real bad while braking
So. There ya go. Without putting hands on the car, that's the likeliest scenario I've come up with. Only thing left is to either take the wheels and tires off and inspect the brakes, or take it somewhere and have it figured out.
Either way, good dang luck to ya, man.
Last edited by houtex; Jun 30, 2013 at 10:51 AM.
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Joined: September 5, 2011
Posts: 5,473
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From: Cleburne, Tx
It can also be termed "wobbles like crazy" and mean the same thing, ok? The points have been made. You'll drive yourself insane trying to group hive mind the solution, the best course is to just get out there and figure it out now.
The biggest clues were in your first post and point to the problem right out:
That, coupled with your allegation of the suspension being perfect, as well as the steering being perfect, and the wheels and tires being perfect, mean there is ONLY one thing: The brakes. And at this point, you must suspect the calipers, pads and the rotors, in total. And since you said the pads are needing replacement, that could very well mean the calipers are at their last extension, and could be locking up/dragging/not returning/not backing away on their being so extended on one side, the right side. That, coupled with the possibility that one or more pad could be down to metal for all we know, and is actually eating the rotor on one side would possibily produce a severe yaw, and if the rivets are exposed, it could be a severe drag issue at that point as they bump and plonk along scraping up against the rotor.
So. There ya go. Without putting hands on the car, that's the likeliest scenario I've come up with. Only thing left is to either take the wheels and tires off and inspect the brakes, or take it somewhere and have it figured out.
Either way, good dang luck to ya, man.
The biggest clues were in your first post and point to the problem right out:
That, coupled with your allegation of the suspension being perfect, as well as the steering being perfect, and the wheels and tires being perfect, mean there is ONLY one thing: The brakes. And at this point, you must suspect the calipers, pads and the rotors, in total. And since you said the pads are needing replacement, that could very well mean the calipers are at their last extension, and could be locking up/dragging/not returning/not backing away on their being so extended on one side, the right side. That, coupled with the possibility that one or more pad could be down to metal for all we know, and is actually eating the rotor on one side would possibily produce a severe yaw, and if the rivets are exposed, it could be a severe drag issue at that point as they bump and plonk along scraping up against the rotor.
So. There ya go. Without putting hands on the car, that's the likeliest scenario I've come up with. Only thing left is to either take the wheels and tires off and inspect the brakes, or take it somewhere and have it figured out.
Either way, good dang luck to ya, man.
Thread Starter
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Joined: June 18, 2013
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My technician says the pads need to be replaced in like 5 months he is an ase mater certified ford. I noticed that my power steering is low could that be a possibility on why the steering is shaking
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Joined: September 5, 2011
Posts: 5,473
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From: Cleburne, Tx
ok........First.. ford certifications and ase certification s are 2 different things.
Second. If you dont want to listen, then take it you your "technician". You obviously refuse to take our advice...
I can tell you your power steering has no effect on your "shake"... your rotors are warped... end of story...
Houtex is right on the money as well...
Last edited by texastboneking; Jul 1, 2013 at 05:43 AM.
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Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
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From: Insane
Actually, after much thinking, it must be the nut behind the steering wheel. It's loose. Either that, or the 710 cap is loose. Possibly the ID10T gear might be worn.
Perhaps the Turbo Encabulator's gramification drive is fouling up the synchrotron decouplers. You might need to replace that GDrive, but it may be too late, and the decouplers are already shot. If those are gone, it's a sure bet the polarized osmotic filtration system is compromised.
If that happened, your blinker fluid will have to be replaced. Nasty stuff that.
I think you might be looking for a drill press at this point, or perhaps a decent jackhammer, to put the car out of it's misery. Or maybe just take the radiator cap off the radiator, and drive a fixed car under it, that would for sure fix the wobbly/shaking problem.
Again, good dang luck, man!
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Joined: September 5, 2011
Posts: 5,473
Likes: 2
From: Cleburne, Tx
No.
Actually, after much thinking, it must be the nut behind the steering wheel. It's loose. Either that, or the 710 cap is loose. Possibly the ID10T gear might be worn.
Perhaps the Turbo Encabulator's gramification drive is fouling up the synchrotron decouplers. You might need to replace that GDrive, but it may be too late, and the decouplers are already shot. If those are gone, it's a sure bet the polarized osmotic filtration system is compromised.
If that happened, your blinker fluid will have to be replaced. Nasty stuff that.
I think you might be looking for a drill press at this point, or perhaps a decent jackhammer, to put the car out of it's misery. Or maybe just take the radiator cap off the radiator, and drive a fixed car under it, that would for sure fix the wobbly/shaking problem.
Again, good dang luck, man!
Last edited by texastboneking; Jul 1, 2013 at 05:22 AM.