Fox Mustangs 1979-1993 Mustangs Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Pulling engine and trans

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 07:37 AM
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Ok, this is my first time doing anything like this so I am going very slow. I want to pull my engine and transmission in my '91 5.0. The transmission is an automatic. So far I have removed the upper air intake, alternator, A/C pump, power steering pump, smog pump, and driveshaft. I also disconnected the one linkage I saw between the auto stick and the transmission. It looks to me like the only thing holding it in is the bolts that hold the engine to the frame and possibly some bolts on the transmission. Am I missing anything? I want to rent a crane in a week or so and pull it all out as one unit. Any advise? Thanks.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 07:57 AM
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Forgot to mention that the exhaust is also removed upto and including the headers and I removed the gas tank.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 02:51 PM
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Well lets see, where do I start?

Ok, uh Remove the drive shaft and Speedo cable and unplug the wires from tranny

Oh and while your under there? Take an empty plastic bread wrapper along with a big rubber band.

This you will need to cover the female part of your trannys back end.
This will help to slow the red tranny fluid from getting all over the floor and making a really big mess.

Don't forget the motor mounts and when you rent or buy your cherry picker don't forget to ask for a sling. Its basically a small chain with an adjustable tab that can be moved at your discretion or should I say as needed.

I have also seen one that had a crank adjuster but we could not use it on an F150 PU because the firewall was in the way.
Being your first time you might want to remove the radiator to give yourself more wiggle room. It would be shame to hit it with a sharp part of the motor. As for the hood itself? I suppose you could remove it and place it on a blanket covering the top of the car itself. Although since theses ponies don't have hood springs" Well a push broom makes an excellent prop rod that is better at holding the hood up at a more perfect 90 degree angle.
Only advice is to go slow and put the bolts back into the bracket holes as best you can.
When going back together there will always be moments of confusion? Gee does that bolt go here? Hint Always notice the color of bolts or the type of dirt on them as well as rust ect. This will help immensely in getting it back together. Now a days a digital camera can be of great help as well. I can't tell you the number of times I went car shopping just to see how a certain bracket fit in place. Yet really I had no interest in the car I was looking at.
If you do use the bread wrapper? Try not to get it snagged on the fire wall as you remove the units.
otherwise good luck and show us some pics if you can.
either way keep us posted.

Not sure why You removed the gas tank?



.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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Thanks for the advise. As of right now I have a bag over the back of the trans catching some of the fluid and sometime this week I plan on just draining the trans to prevent a mess when I do remove it. The hood of the car is off and the radiator is out. I have to climb back under and make sure all the linkages on the trans are disconnected. I have not yet done the speedo cable but I did disconnect the one linkage between the auto shifter and the trans. Is there another linkage on an AOD transmission or just one? I will try and post some pics of where I am at tonight.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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This is basically what I have my engine down to:
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Should be just the one shifter linkage?
Back in the old days when cars had carburetors there was second one that went to the the manual gas pedal and back to the tranny to facilitate a passing gear. For when you really floored the gas HARD.

I think the computer takes care of that now a days though. The wires to the tranny have a plug that is unique as do all motor wires. It maybe real dirty but if you clean it and look close you should be able to unplug it with out damaging it. A (screw drive might help here) Hey while your down there there is a thing called a (Vacuum Modulator) Is about the size of a 2.5 inch stack of half dollars. Looking some thing like a top it has has a Rubber vacuum hose going to it the other end going up to the intake manifold. Now here is what to watch for? Remove the rubber hose and notice whether or not you see RED tranny fluid dripping from the hose. If you do?

Than that Vacuum Modulator is BAD. As I recall Auto Zone has one for about 14 bucks.. That metal line you see going up towards the manifold maybe what your thinking looks like an second linkage but is in fact the vacuum line I talked of earlier . Of course if there is no dripping from that rubber hose than the Vacuum Modulator is good. If bad a new one will help the tranny shift a lot smoother and with less noise. Good luck
Look forward to hearing more

Almost forgot there is two metal cooling lines that go from the tranny to the radiator. Be careful not to mess them up. Speedo cable should be just one bolt thru a tab once remove the gear should slide out. Tho maybe a little tight. If the trannys tilted it may also be red dripping mess when removed
Oh don't forget the wires to the starter. However, since your removing tranny and motor a a unit the starter can stay
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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Originally posted by I8URVTEC@November 7, 2005, 7:45 PM
This is basically what I have my engine down to:

Excellent photo

From what I can tell your down to thew really small stuff

There is a package of wires that come from the fire wall and squirels its way a cross the manifold. one I can see goes down the front of the motor to the oil sending unit the other near the thermostat is a water temp sensor and one to the coil. And of course the fuel injector wire will have to be removed .
Not sure but most fuel injector wires have a little wire thar used to lock them in a plugged in position. You 'll nee to remove that clip before they will unplugg easily .

Cool
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:13 PM
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Oh and the fuel line or lines
some have need of a special tool for removing them

I find these a little hard to use but it better than just cutting the line and splicing them back later

Its hard to explain here how they are used. But, the jist of the matter is they push an un seen spring out of the way for quick and easy reinstall.

Its the uninstall I admit is most challenging.
I think there on 6 bucks or so but they are also used on air conditioning hoses as well.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 06:39 AM
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Thanks for the help. To answer some of your questions yes I did find a few more linkages seemingly going back to the gas pedal on the transmission. Those are disconnected now. I also was able to pull the speedo gear out of the transmission. One thing that keeps bothering me though is the grey plastic clips that hold groups of wires together keep breaking on me. The plastic is just so old that when you use a screwdriver to pry them apart a little bit they just break. I guess I will have to worry about that when it all goes back together. Like I was saying my plan for this car is to put in a C4 transmission and either rebuild this engine as a stroker or buy a new one.
As far as the wires go on top of the engine I undid the two big clamps that hold the wiring clusters on the engine to the ones going into the firewall. I think that alone detaches quite a bit. The fuel lines also seem to be all disconnected unless I am missing something. I completely removed the gas tank last month and when I did that I thought I got the lines up on the engine. My plan is to start cranking the engine up with the host to get a better idea of what is still attached.
After the engine and transmission are out I want to go to work on getting the surface rust off around the engine bay and basically just cleaning it up. I am also going to remove completely things that won't be going back in. I.e. anything having to do with the A/C. I will post more pictures when the engine and transmission are out (fingers crossed).
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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On those wire connectors?
There is a spray can of electronics cleaner that will help in reconnecting them. It helps with cooper wires making them connect better and cleaner. Its at Auto Zone. aside from that if not going for a con course look but rather a cool custom look than I just tape them tightly with black electrical tape. than cover with new wire covers.

like here

http://members.***.net/daysleepin/MVC-318F.JPG
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Ok, I see what you are saying. I was just worried about with all these clamps breaking how much time and trouble it is going to cause me when it all goes back together.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 03:11 PM
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Best I can say is wiring plugs now a days come in all kinds of special shapes Trianles circles and egg shapes ect.

Basiclty they will only fit what they will reach.

One thing that will drive you crazy as it did me, Is the fact that wire looms may have several application.

For instance the same loom maybe made for both a 4 cyl, 6 cyl and a V8. Thus, sometimes you will find plug wires that go no where......
Good Idea to mark them now as dead ends not applicable to your motor.

This will save worrys when you do go back together.

Trust me I found different throttle bodies have different wires on some cars. It was only by hunting down clones and near clones as to why the plug meant NOTHING to my car
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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I can see how that can get confusing. I used a digital camera to take a picture of each thing before disconnecting or removing it. hopefully that will help when everything goes back together.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:17 AM
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keep the faith
Don't let it overwhelm you.
There is nothing like looking back on a job thats not only well done. But, already done.

It can be real confidence builder.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:04 PM
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Thanks. I know it is going to be a slow process b/c I need to save up money to buy everything I want to go in it but I am not going to give up until I have exactly what I want. I am thinking either 331 or 347 stroker with either a supercharger or turbo and a C4 transmission with a transbreak. Once the engine is out I am going to work on getting the body cleaned up while I save for the engine I want to put in.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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unless you'll be drag racing you are better off with just a 2800-3200 stall converter then a transbrake
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 05:38 AM
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Ok cool. I'll keep that in mind. I don't plan on doing a lot of drag racing. The goal for this car is to have a real mean street car that I can occationally take to the track.
By the way, I want to have everything ready for when I borrow the crane. So last night I lostened the two bolts that hold the engine to the frame. I also lostened the bolts that hold the transmission to the crossmember and also the two bolts that hold the crossmember to the body.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 05:38 AM
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Ok cool. I'll keep that in mind. I don't plan on doing a lot of drag racing. The goal for this car is to have a real mean street car that I can occationally take to the track.
By the way, I want to have everything ready for when I borrow the crane. So last night I lostened the two bolts that hold the engine to the frame. I also lostened the bolts that hold the transmission to the crossmember and also the two bolts that hold the crossmember to the body.
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 06:47 AM
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The other day I was able to break lose the engine bolts as well as the bolts that hold the trans to the crossmember and the crossmember to the body. Now I just have to wait to get the crane next week and hopefully start to pull it all out.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 07:37 AM
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Well, tonight is the big night. I have the engine hoist rented and the engine stand is ready. I am going to be pulling the engine and trans, hopefully it will go smoothly. Wish me luck. I will take plenty of pics and post them soon.
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