Nitrous question
8/4/05, 12:56 AM
#1
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on my 93 i was using a compucar "wet" kit. spraying 150. the fogger was plumbed into the underside of my air intake tube. the only problem was it didnt feel like i was getting the full potential of the 150 shot. it felt more like 90-100 hp. (and yes i checked and made sure the nozzle was spraying directly through my throttle body) but anyhow,,, i am about to start "tinkering" on a 90 GT and i am seriously considering using a dry kit with multiport Nitrous injection. am i asking for trouble switching over to the dry kit or should i just stick with the wet kit?
8/4/05, 12:40 PM
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I dont mean to hijack your thread or anything, but i have a few questons too:
i thought the dry kit was 50-150 shot than wet is 150-300+, is that true? and is the dry kit actually safer
i thought the dry kit was 50-150 shot than wet is 150-300+, is that true? and is the dry kit actually safer
8/4/05, 01:18 PM
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I would stick with the wet kit. They are better since they dont lean out your air/fuel ratio when you spray it. The wet should be safer to the engine but I dont know about you. I persoanly think all nitrous is bad to you since its not good carried around a tank with 900+ PSI.
8/4/05, 01:55 PM
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Nitrous is perfectly safe, providing that you learn about what you are installing on the car. Like any other power adder on a car, if you go into it not knowing fully what you are doing, bad things can happen. Take your time, and do the research not only to know what is involved in the kit, but understand how it works. I am not saying this only for fiveo93's benefit, but for anyone considering nitrous.
When done correctly and as safely as possible, it is some seriously fun stuff. You can take a stock stang, put a 150 shot nad some slicks on it and it is a totally different monster, and is garuntted to put a grin from ear to ear the first time you come out of the hole with that bottle wide open.
Ford Racing, wet kits go from 50 to well over 500 hp. Dry kits will typically only go to about a 150 shot on a mustang.
The amount of "safety" in dry versus wet is very dabatable, but first you have to fully understand how each of the systems works.
WET KIT:
normal kit
You have two seperate solenoids, One comes from the nitrous bottle, the other from your fuel system (most kits tap into the test port on the fuel rail) Your nitrous/fuel ratio is calculated according to the pills, or jets you put into the lines. The two lines after leaving the solenoids then go into one "nozzle" which distributes the nitrous/fuel mixture into the intake system. The nozzle is typically tapped into the intake tube after the maf, but before the throttle body.
DANGERS
The main danger with a wet kit, spraying before the intake is fuel puddling. Fuel can and sometimes does accumulate in the intake when using these kits. Most nitrous backfires you see photos or videos of on the net are due to fuel puddling in the intake, then igniting. This can blow the complete upper intake off the car, I have seen it happen on a video.
Ways to prevent fuel puddling include:
*Never spray under 3000 rpms, a window switch can be used to prevent this from happening
*Never spray except when the car is at Wide Open Throttle, in which case a wide open throttle switch will prevent the solenoids from opening unless the gas peddle is all the way to the floor.
*Never spray over a 150 shot BEFORE the upper intake. It only makes sense that the higher the shot size, the more fuel is coming in. The more fuel that comes in, the higher the risk of puddling. This doesnt mean you cant spray a 200 shot into your intake tube, it just isnt the best idea in the world.
WET KIT
plate kit
The difference in a normal wet kit, and a plate kit is that a plate kit contains a plate the goes between your upper and lower intake, which allows you to inject the nitrous/fuel mixture at that location. The advantage to thsi is the fact that bby bypassing the upper intake, you greatly reduce the chance of fuel puddling in the intake and causing your shiny new bling bling polished intakae to land on the hot dog stand at your local. It is typically recomended that if spraying over a 150 shot, a plate kit be used.
DRY KIT
A dry kit still uses two solenoids, but works kind of different. A dry injects ONLY nitrous into your system. The second solenoid hooks to a vaccum tube going to your fuel pressure regulator. When the solenoid opens (the nitrous solenoid fires at the same time) The vaccum makes your fuel pressure rise, thus causing more fuel to be delivered. So basically in a dry kit the cars fuel sytem is responsible for adding the extra fuel to compensate for the nitrous
DANGERS
The main danger in a dry kit is going lean. The stock fuel system is simply not enough for a larger shot on a dry system. If running anything over about a 75 shot on a dry kit, the very least I would do is upgrade the fuel pump, but possibly injectors as well. I am honestly not sure why they do not recomend over a 150 shot dry kit, but my only guess is because of the increased risk of running lean.
On a good note with a dry kit, there is no real risk of fuel puddling because the fuel is all injected at the stock location.
When adding ANY nitrous kit, it is recomended to upgrade your fuel system. Simply because any failure of a component, or the event of a component not working "up to par" can result in a very serious lean condition which is a very very bad thing.
When done correctly and as safely as possible, it is some seriously fun stuff. You can take a stock stang, put a 150 shot nad some slicks on it and it is a totally different monster, and is garuntted to put a grin from ear to ear the first time you come out of the hole with that bottle wide open.
Ford Racing, wet kits go from 50 to well over 500 hp. Dry kits will typically only go to about a 150 shot on a mustang.
The amount of "safety" in dry versus wet is very dabatable, but first you have to fully understand how each of the systems works.
WET KIT:
normal kit
You have two seperate solenoids, One comes from the nitrous bottle, the other from your fuel system (most kits tap into the test port on the fuel rail) Your nitrous/fuel ratio is calculated according to the pills, or jets you put into the lines. The two lines after leaving the solenoids then go into one "nozzle" which distributes the nitrous/fuel mixture into the intake system. The nozzle is typically tapped into the intake tube after the maf, but before the throttle body.
DANGERS
The main danger with a wet kit, spraying before the intake is fuel puddling. Fuel can and sometimes does accumulate in the intake when using these kits. Most nitrous backfires you see photos or videos of on the net are due to fuel puddling in the intake, then igniting. This can blow the complete upper intake off the car, I have seen it happen on a video.
Ways to prevent fuel puddling include:
*Never spray under 3000 rpms, a window switch can be used to prevent this from happening
*Never spray except when the car is at Wide Open Throttle, in which case a wide open throttle switch will prevent the solenoids from opening unless the gas peddle is all the way to the floor.
*Never spray over a 150 shot BEFORE the upper intake. It only makes sense that the higher the shot size, the more fuel is coming in. The more fuel that comes in, the higher the risk of puddling. This doesnt mean you cant spray a 200 shot into your intake tube, it just isnt the best idea in the world.
WET KIT
plate kit
The difference in a normal wet kit, and a plate kit is that a plate kit contains a plate the goes between your upper and lower intake, which allows you to inject the nitrous/fuel mixture at that location. The advantage to thsi is the fact that bby bypassing the upper intake, you greatly reduce the chance of fuel puddling in the intake and causing your shiny new bling bling polished intakae to land on the hot dog stand at your local. It is typically recomended that if spraying over a 150 shot, a plate kit be used.
DRY KIT
A dry kit still uses two solenoids, but works kind of different. A dry injects ONLY nitrous into your system. The second solenoid hooks to a vaccum tube going to your fuel pressure regulator. When the solenoid opens (the nitrous solenoid fires at the same time) The vaccum makes your fuel pressure rise, thus causing more fuel to be delivered. So basically in a dry kit the cars fuel sytem is responsible for adding the extra fuel to compensate for the nitrous
DANGERS
The main danger in a dry kit is going lean. The stock fuel system is simply not enough for a larger shot on a dry system. If running anything over about a 75 shot on a dry kit, the very least I would do is upgrade the fuel pump, but possibly injectors as well. I am honestly not sure why they do not recomend over a 150 shot dry kit, but my only guess is because of the increased risk of running lean.
On a good note with a dry kit, there is no real risk of fuel puddling because the fuel is all injected at the stock location.
When adding ANY nitrous kit, it is recomended to upgrade your fuel system. Simply because any failure of a component, or the event of a component not working "up to par" can result in a very serious lean condition which is a very very bad thing.
8/4/05, 02:04 PM
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Originally posted by fiveo93@August 4, 2005, 12:59 AM
on my 93 i was using a compucar "wet" kit. spraying 150. the fogger was plumbed into the underside of my air intake tube. the only problem was it didnt feel like i was getting the full potential of the 150 shot.
on my 93 i was using a compucar "wet" kit. spraying 150. the fogger was plumbed into the underside of my air intake tube. the only problem was it didnt feel like i was getting the full potential of the 150 shot.
There is ALOT more to using nitrous than just hooking it up. Typically for 100-150 shot you also need to change to plugs that are 1 to 2 steps colder than stock, retard your timing a few degrees, and close the gap some on your plugs. You could have been having some detonation issues, or it is even possible that you were getting some spark blowout.
8/4/05, 09:51 PM
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problem with the wet kit is as stated, likes to backfire. quite a few of people i know of had this problem ( the JLP lightning is one of them) but man, people here came through for this one. Makes me understand everything alot better, thanks 
8/5/05, 12:30 AM
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hands down to "Joker" this man knows what he's talking about when it comes to the "juice" i myself have been playing with nitrous for about 10 years and i will totally back everything he said. GREAT JOB!
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