Stix66

Ok so May 3rd I received my BBK Equal Length Ceramic headers from summitracing.com. I go ahead and installed that same night took me 6 hours to do with 2 friends. We get them in except one flange bolt that we couldn't reach and I end up having a huge exhaust leak. Ok I will take that to a mechanic to get it attached correctly. So I start pulling the car out of the garage and my steering wheel is awfully hard to move. I check the steering shaft in the engine compartment and its grinding right up against the headers. So now I am taking them off, returning them to summit, and I went to a local performance shop to get myself some replacement unequal length shortys, BBK Ceramics... that I can not receive until monday. So my fox is out of commission for a few days [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banghead.gif[/img]

So for the people installing equal length shortys on their own, just make sure your steering rod is not going to rub against the new headers. And the passanger side header is a pain to get in too, and YOU HAVE TO raise the motor, there is no way around it.

I heard of people denting the tubes to make them fit, but with the luck I am having so far I would end up braking the tube and being unable to return the parts.

Ok I am done with my story now... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/crying.gif[/img]

Valentino

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I just received in the mail last week my BBK unequal length chrome shortys from 5.0 Resto (they actually beat CJ Pony Parts price and shipping cost!) Now I'm just waiting for a day when I don't work so I can put them on. I would have liked to get the ceramic coated ones but I didn't have a lot of money to spend.
I spent 45 bucks to get the "Stage 8" locking header bolts, they are stainless steel and are guaranteed to never come loose. For 45 bucks, never having to retighten or check my header bolts ever again sounds like a deal to me, plus, being stainless steel they are more resistant to corrison and what not than the black powercoated studs BBK provides. I also bought Fel-Pro brand header gaskets instead of the junk ones BBK gives you. I strongly suggest you do the same for your headers, if you don't want to spend that much money for the locking bolts you can go with ARP brand stainless steel regular header bolts, they were 30 dollars at the A&A I went to. Good luck with your installation, if you come across any problems while installing them let me know!

Stix66

The equal lengths came with some nice gold shiny header bolts. I am not sure if they are stainless steel though, I would have to go back and look, but they looked really nice. I will look into your suggestion though. Thanks for the advice! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

Hotrod

Im getting ready to put on some BBK longtubes. They are gong to be fun but luckily I have all the transmission crap out of the way.

Stix66

I was going to go with longtubes but I didn't want to buy a new midpipe.

ScottyBoy302

Hmmm, ive got some equal length, undented shorties on mine. Now im happy i didnt have to put them on. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

Valentino

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stix66 @ May 5, 2006, 5:24 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
The equal lengths came with some nice gold shiny header bolts. I am not sure if they are stainless steel though, I would have to go back and look, but they looked really nice. I will look into your suggestion though. Thanks for the advice! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

They gave me those same gold looking bolts, I believe they are actually zinc-coated which gives the gold appearance. They look like pretty decent quality but not stainless steel. These are the same exact bolts I bought but I didn't get them off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG-302...sspagenameZWD1V

Mustang5000

WOW! Thanks for the advice guys - I have been debating over which style of headers to install - I think I will avoid the equal length and go for long tube!

svopaul

The reason your steering shaft was rubbing was because your motor mounts are worn and the engine has settled down lower as a result. Look at the fan in the fan shroud and I'll bet it is either very close to hitting the bottom of the shroud or it has already hit and started to modify itself for clearance

Stix66

So what are you saying I should get new motor mounts?

And is there a huge difference in performance between unequal and equal?
Because I just put in my new unequals in and they sound nice and I notice better acceleration out of them, but the steering rod still rubs a little from time to time. As far as my sound of my exhaust goes, they make it louder but it was a slight inprovement.

svopaul

Yes, You definitely need new engine mounts. I would highly recommend getting the convertible mounts, they are a better design.

Stix66

My fan is not that close to hitting the bottom of the shroud, I can fit my finger in the space.

And if I put new motor mounts in will this raise the engine directly up? Because if it does then it looks like one of the header tubes will be rubbing up against the top of the middle steering shaft (the one thats on an angle). Or am I wrong?

svopaul

Is the fan clearanced from hitting the shroud or is it original and untouched? Look carefully because they often clearance pretty clean it may not be easy to tell if you don't know what you are looking at. If you have a steering shaft touching the header anywhere then something is wrong. It is very common for the engine mounts to be worn and allow the engine to settle down and yes, the new mounts will raise the engine up but I have never seen a set of new mounts cause interference with anything.

Hotrod

Just to let yall know I got my Longtubes to day and got them put in. The pasenger side was a pain. We have to jack up the engine on the front and back and push the engine over to get the flange to go down. THe driver side was a peice of cake. It just slipped up from the bottom. We spent about 3.5 hours getting the right side in and about 5 minutes on the driver side. Now I just have to finish getting all the other crap back in (transmision, run channel weatherstrip, thermostat).

Stix66

Ok good advice, I am going to look for some new motormounts and if I notice a difference in clearance from the unequals I will reinstall the equal length header on the driver side see if it still rubs. If it doesnt then im taking back my unequal lengths and putting the passenger side one back in. If the equal lengths dont fit them I am keeping the unequals in and returning my equals back. Wow what a mess... lol.

Stix66

I have not bought a set of motormounts yet... because of cash.

I am going to a custom exhaust place thats been around my house for years and I am going to ask them what I can do to fix this rubbing.

I will post again on what has happend, because I do not want anyone going through this mess.

svopaul

Just so you know, the convertible style mounts are available at Advance Auto Parts for about $28 each.

93Cobra#2771

Be aware that the earlier model vert motor mounts are actually shorter than stockers. However, if your motormounts have collapsed, new vert ones are still going to be taller than the collapsed ones.

If I had it to do over with again, I would have gone with unequal length shorties. My EQ length were just to big a PITA to get, and after pulling the heads 2 other times, they simply aren't worth the hassle for the small gain in HP.

Stix66

Well I went to the exhaust shop, they said this problem occurs sometimes and all they have to do for is is dent in the pipe the same way some manufacturers (sp) do on their heads. BBK for some reason does not dent in the pipe for clearing the steering rod, and you have to go get it done urself. So I did it was only 10 bucks to do and it took 10 mins. So I will reinstall the equal lenghts only because they were cheaper than the unequals I have by 75 bucks... why? I do not know. But now my equal lenghts should fit in now. I should have them in by friday I will post again for the news.

Valentino

I would never, EVER dent an exhuast pipe (especially a header), that defeats the purpose of a free flowing exhuast. If your motor mounts are shot thats a fairly serious issue that you want to address ASAP, not ignore it just because denting the pipe is a cheaper method.