Hello all...
Another quick question about the clutches in these badass machines... Stiff, stiff, stiff as hell... She's got a centerforce clutch, world class T5 trans, I put a brand new BBK adjustable cable, but the clutch is still STIFF as a B***H!!! Can barely squeak out 2nd gear... Any advice on this... I know it's kinda the nature of the beast so to speak, as my buddy's 99 Cobra is similar but there's gotta be some give here...????? Thanks again, all!!

Mrouija

 

Misnomer. Most aftermarket cables bind,creak and stretch faster than the stock cable. In my history with the fox and from years of reading these kinds of posts imo the best cable is the stock ford cable, it lasts and doesn't bind like alot of the others. If you are running an aftermarket quad some of the cheaper ones are kinda sloppy and will stiffen the feel, if it is a triple hook quad stay away from the top hook ( UPR comes to mind) the angle is really bad. I'm partial to maximum motorsports quad and they also sell the OEM cable. I also like thier fire wall adjuster and my other top pick is the fiore.

Look in the tech section I have a write up on proper clutch adjustment, this could the problem with getting into gear, https://themustangsource.com/f634/te...os-fox-503775/
also clutch cable routing is very important for smooth operation and this is a known mistake that is made that causes problems.

 

hmmm.. good call, It's the stock quad, just a BBK Adjustable cable...

 

yeah I can get all the adjustment I want but just a STIFF A** stomp to shift her quick enough to barely "grab" 2nd or 3rd... I know all the adjustments and have messed with it over and over, like I said, stock quadrant, and BBK Adj cable, any other suggestions for smoother operation? I've heard the Hydraulic replacements are SH*T and quite expensive.. I've learned to live with it but am not satisfied... Any other suggestions?

 

Hydro steup not needed. check the cable routing. IMO I would ditch the cable for an OEM ford and maybe a new quad the maximim motorsports. My other concern is you haveing a hard time getting gears where is the pedal grabbing and how much end play do you have? The pressure plate on the centerforce has a light pressure plate like the king cobra so the pedal effort shouldn't be that crazy, a hydro unit isn't really going to change things all that much. also what sifter you using?

 

Sounds like there may be a bent shift fork and/or release bearing alignment problem. Seems odd, since these things need to align for the input shaft to find its place, but the only other thing coming to mind is 1 which has already been mentioned, the cable. If pedal effort is as extreme as you've made it out to be, that's simply got to be addressed. I've run much heavier clutches than the Centerforce in Fox Mustangs without issue.

I really got in mostly to learn the end result.

 

Hey guys, yeah I'm running a Hurst short thow shifter, but I've noticed I've had to re-adjust the BBK Adjustable cable a few times since installing it... I Know it's stretching kinda quick but as "Itllrun" said i'm now wondering if something beyone the cable/quad is wrong as I never personally had the clutch and pres plate itself out (ex owner and friend of mine did it last). Sh*t I can chirp 2nd & 3rd in my Jeep wrangler w 35" tires on her.. LOL... Hesitant about pullin' the tranny but will if I can get er to perform better... should I just try the OEM cable and as SKUNK said the maximum motorsports quad? I've also heard some dude sayin' that U can loosen the long bolt holdin' your clutch pedal assy in and pullin the pedal UP and the re-tightening... Looked at it and U can't, as there is a cotter pin type setup on one end, there's nothing that can be loosened...

Thanks Again, fellas!

 

It's possible to have a bent shift fork but it would only get worse and most of the time you would have problems getting it intoshifting. It is easy enough to check. If your clutch is slipping or giving off at the top and cannot be adjusted out then I would look at the clutch. you haven't posted anything that would point me towards the tranny. Sounds like a typical cheap clable that is stretched out. I really think its time to look for another setup.

 

Definitely, the 1st order of business is the cable. I agree that using stock is likely best. Doesn't seem right, but it's proven itself over the years. Back when I swapped from AOD to T5, I got an aftermarket cable plus quadrant and soon had problems. Went to a guy I knew to build Mustangs and he gave me firewall adjuster(they weren't even on the market yet)... All that stuff failed in the end and in a short time, so I went back to the stock cable and WA-LA... Problem gone. That didn't save those 9 T5's I shattered, but hey, my clutch worked!

 

Right on, if the fork is bent would it be visible? In other words, can I inspect the fork without pullin the tranny? Think I could, but either way I'm gonna get the OEM cable and try that maximum motorsports quad first. but yeah, I' mean even doin' a burnout/brakestand it's hard to go from 1st to 2nd doin that, or even can't chirp any gears and the car goes pretty **** good!!! Dunno...

 

Bent fork won't make the pedal stiff. I've had bad cables cause this but yours is new. Clutch is probably shot.

 

Highly, highly doubt like stated the shift fork is bent. Is the clutch adjusted correctly ? where is the clutch starting to grab? It sounds like either the clutch is out of adjustment or worn out. The clutch has to give about 2" of the floor and have about 1" of play ( when the pedal is released there should be about 1" of free play before it gets hard to push the pedal) if the clutch is giving to high and you adjust it and it goes away then the clutch is bad or cable is absolute junk.

My buddy bought a cheap cable and within 2wks it was stretched enough that we couldn't get any more good adjustment out of it, so yes a newer cable can go south pretty quick. W/O quality parts in there you are chasing your tail. If the cable isn't any good then all the adjusting in the world is going out the window. doing burnouts when you don't have thing right yet, not good. get things straight or you are going to wear the tranny or get left stranded.

 

The fork may actually be worn also, but that's not "THE" cause of your hard pedal issue. Check that cable! Release the cable from each end and push/pull it through to see how easily it moves. It should slide easily in either direction. Of course, a good visual inspection can reveal that it's hit the exhaust and melted. If that's happened, that one is done.

 

This is really just a back and forth. he can check the cable to see if it is binding in the sleeve, the "clutch lever" where the cable attaches yes if it gets bent it will cause clutch engagement issues. Bent shifts forks ( internal) can cause hard shifting issues along with worn syncros.

1. You need to check for proper clutch adjustment. you can let us know what you got but read my earlier post so you can give some info on the engagement/free play.

2. If clutch is adjusted properly and you are still having stiff pedal, then look at the cable. If you are having a hard time getting it into gear with a properly adjusted clutch then you could have internal issues. This is what I like about an aftermarket shifter, it has adjustable stops. Powershifting with the stock shifter can bend the shift forks.

3. If you have the clutch properly adjusted and then it goes out, either the cable is streched and will not hold the adjustment or if cannot adjust out a high pedal the clutch is shot.

3. New oem cable, maybe new quad up to you and everything working correctly, good clutch and still hard getting into 1st & 2nd gear then probally internal, 1st/2nd shift fork, etc.

Best of luck.

 

Thanks again skunk but just to clarify, it has no problems shifting into the gears, however being able to "power shift" or shift quickly is difficult because of the stiffness of the clutch. But I will check things over and let u know. As I also said sinse the new BBK adjustable cable (last may) till now I've adjusted it like 5 or 6 times

 

Your clutch is shot man. You are stretching the cable because of it. How old is that centerforce?

 

Okay good that is much clearer. yeah it is tough to quick shift with a stif cable. 5-6 in less than a year is too much might be clutch time. I did my new T5, clutch cable and quad plus a brand new king cobra clutch with new throw out bearing and all prep work about 3yrs ago or so. I only did a slight adjustment after the clutch broke in and haven't touched it since then and I get on it. so what we are talking maybe 1 adjustment in close to 3 yrs, so this will give you something to think about when a I mean about good products vs so so products.

 

Roger that, Skunk... I did notice when I pulled my driveshaft to replace my ebrake cables that someone wrote "new CForce clutch 3-1999" on the driveshaft... hahaha maybe I should stuff a new clutch setup in er? or should I try cable before all that? If you think clutch, what would you recommend for smooth operation/best performance?? Thanks again!!!

 

Really there isn't a time frame for a clutch to wear out. IMHO since you need a new cable and it is easy enough to change I would go that route 1st. you also have the option of changing the quad and maybe a fwa. Once you have a good known cable in it and the clutch properly adjusted then I would test things out. if you run into problems then go to the clutch. It sucks that the King cobra clutch is no longer available, it is a great clutch. That said..

I like the Mcleod
http://www.jegs.com/p/McLeod/McLeod-...64099/10002/-1

or the Ram has my choices
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ram-Clutches/7...oductId=751514


The ford racing HD clutch is an oem style clutch, fine for most mild applications but has about 30% or slightly more stiffer pedal feel than what you have now and most aftermarket clutches. The Mcleod or Ram are great clutches IMO.

 

I agree with ^ this ^ .the fwa is a great upgrade anyway to dial in your clutch the way u personally like it.I didn't know they quit making the king cobra clutch. I got mine about a 1 1/2 years ago and I think it is really good and affordable.I have seen some bad reviews on it.but it is only rated at 400 hp and most of the guys doing the reviews are pushing well over that.

But anyways imo I would go with the centerforce dual friction.it has 90% better holding power while still having less pedal effort.

And like skunk said there is no time limit on a clutch.it is all about how its treated.I have seen guys get 180,000 miles out of one clutch!

Good luck.