'92 5.0 repair questions
1/25/07, 04:16 PM
#1
FR500 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: August 15, 2005
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'92 5.0 repair questions
Decided not to get a new Mustang. Should be picking up a '92 5.0LX coupe today (completely stock!
). Some of the known things that need fixing include the following - the a/c (sort of) still works, it still blows cold air until the fan switch is turned to the max speed setting - then the fan stops blowing. Using "max a/c" results in the same thing. It is only when selecting the highest speed that the fan and a/c(?) shuts off. Anyone know what it could be (fan control switch, blower motor, motor resistor, or something else?)
Also the power driver's seat doesn't work, though I can still reach the wheel and pedals LOL. The motor still makes noise, just no movement. If it can't be fixed, is it possible to remove the powered seat mount/track and swap it for a manual one from another Mustang (eg. 4cyl or non-power seat) while keeping the seat itself?
If anyone has any ideas or can point me in the right direction with suggestions or links, it would be greatly appreciated!
). Some of the known things that need fixing include the following - the a/c (sort of) still works, it still blows cold air until the fan switch is turned to the max speed setting - then the fan stops blowing. Using "max a/c" results in the same thing. It is only when selecting the highest speed that the fan and a/c(?) shuts off. Anyone know what it could be (fan control switch, blower motor, motor resistor, or something else?) Also the power driver's seat doesn't work, though I can still reach the wheel and pedals LOL. The motor still makes noise, just no movement. If it can't be fixed, is it possible to remove the powered seat mount/track and swap it for a manual one from another Mustang (eg. 4cyl or non-power seat) while keeping the seat itself?
If anyone has any ideas or can point me in the right direction with suggestions or links, it would be greatly appreciated!
1/25/07, 08:55 PM
#4
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would guess the motor. My fiances jeep had 4 settings for A/C, heat. If it wasn't on 4 it wouldn't work at all. It was the blower motor. Another piece you might want to consider replacing before getting into all of that is the switch. It's like 15 bucks at the most right from Ford.
Easiest installation EVER. It's on the passenger rear of the engine bay, right where the shock tower is. It's a cylinder about an inch in diameter. It twists off, and the new one twists right back on. If that doesn't fix it... you know it's the blower motor.
As for the seats, ditch them and buy a set of front seats off of a 1996-2004 off of Ebay. The tracks bolt right up, the electric needs minor (3 minute job) splicing, and they look sick!
CR
Easiest installation EVER. It's on the passenger rear of the engine bay, right where the shock tower is. It's a cylinder about an inch in diameter. It twists off, and the new one twists right back on. If that doesn't fix it... you know it's the blower motor.
As for the seats, ditch them and buy a set of front seats off of a 1996-2004 off of Ebay. The tracks bolt right up, the electric needs minor (3 minute job) splicing, and they look sick!
CR
1/25/07, 09:10 PM
#5
GT Member
Join Date: November 10, 2004
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The seat can definately be changed out with another Mustang seat. I know we have done just the opposite of what your doing. We put a 95 grey twead power seat into a 1990 hatch back and yes the plug worked.
As for the fan? I would guess its the switch. It"s certainly not a fuse
As for the fan? I would guess its the switch. It"s certainly not a fuse
1/26/07, 12:28 AM
#6
FR500 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: August 15, 2005
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for your suggestions! Funny thing is, while driving it home the A/C started working fine at all fan speed settings. Go figure . Still will keep your suggestions in mind if it proves to be an intermittent problem. Plan to start scrounging the junkyard for manual seat mounts/tracks since it's cheap (yup, that's me alright!) and helps lighten the car just a tad more. According to the info on the title and registration, this vehicle weighs 20lbs. less than my old '88 5.0LX notch which was listed at 3110 and definitely had less standard equipment.
Definitely will have to replace the engine driven fan - can see stress marks near the blades. The passenger-side window is slow going up/down and the door lock actuators are probably on their way out as well. Also got to save up for a 3G alternator kit - had one on my '88 and it makes a big difference while idling and at night.
Will try to get pictures but am kind of ashamed since the paint is faded and the rear exhausts aren't quite straight for some reason. All I can say is it is a dark blue color (looks black at night) - anyone know what it was called if it's a factory Ford color? As long as she runs well, that's all I need -that and the V8 sound!
. Still will keep your suggestions in mind if it proves to be an intermittent problem. Plan to start scrounging the junkyard for manual seat mounts/tracks since it's cheap (yup, that's me alright!) and helps lighten the car just a tad more. According to the info on the title and registration, this vehicle weighs 20lbs. less than my old '88 5.0LX notch which was listed at 3110 and definitely had less standard equipment. Definitely will have to replace the engine driven fan - can see stress marks near the blades. The passenger-side window is slow going up/down and the door lock actuators are probably on their way out as well. Also got to save up for a 3G alternator kit - had one on my '88 and it makes a big difference while idling and at night.
Will try to get pictures but am kind of ashamed since the paint is faded and the rear exhausts aren't quite straight for some reason. All I can say is it is a dark blue color (looks black at night) - anyone know what it was called if it's a factory Ford color? As long as she runs well, that's all I need -that and the V8 sound!
1/26/07, 08:36 AM
#7
Join Date: December 5, 2006
Location: Trapped in Minnesota
Posts: 31,619
Likes: 0
Received 70 Likes
on
66 Posts
Don't be ashamed of faded paint. Mine was badly faded before I got it painted. 
I just really like seeing other notches! Especially the 5.0s! 
There's a list of paint colors in the timeline on here! I'd think either twilight blue or ultra blue. But I've never seen the names and the colors put together.
I just really like seeing other notches! Especially the 5.0s! There's a list of paint colors in the timeline on here! I'd think either twilight blue or ultra blue. But I've never seen the names and the colors put together.
1/28/07, 01:47 PM
#10
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ almost identical to my car.
< 1990 GT Hatch, 306ci, MAC Equal Shorty, UPR O/R X Pipe, MAC cat-back, Pro 5.0 shifter, FRPP 3.73s, Underdrive Pulleys, Roush 200 series heads, e303 cam, MSD ignition, prof products upper/lower manifold, MAC cold air, built t5 with king cobra clutch, cervinis 2000 r hood, cobra grill insert, lx tails, gunmetal 17" cobras, next mod: subframe connectors
How far are you from Allentown?
< 1990 GT Hatch, 306ci, MAC Equal Shorty, UPR O/R X Pipe, MAC cat-back, Pro 5.0 shifter, FRPP 3.73s, Underdrive Pulleys, Roush 200 series heads, e303 cam, MSD ignition, prof products upper/lower manifold, MAC cold air, built t5 with king cobra clutch, cervinis 2000 r hood, cobra grill insert, lx tails, gunmetal 17" cobras, next mod: subframe connectors
How far are you from Allentown?
1/28/07, 09:21 PM
#11
FR500 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: August 15, 2005
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Went looking under the hood today for a really close inspection and found a bunch of things that need repair/replacement. Of primary concern other than the cracking fan I discovered, was battery corrosion (will replace it plus cables/grounds as well) and more importantly, one of the EGR coolant hoses - the rear one is soft and damp - leaking coolant. Where is this hose routed and can it be replaced without having to remove the throttle body/upper intake manifold? Is the hose a "generic" type (heater?) hose or is it something only obtainable at the dealership? Seems I'm getting off to a rocky start with this one...
1/28/07, 09:25 PM
#12
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: November 20, 2004
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ almost identical to my car.
< 1990 GT Hatch, 306ci, MAC Equal Shorty, UPR O/R X Pipe, MAC cat-back, Pro 5.0 shifter, FRPP 3.73s, Underdrive Pulleys, Roush 200 series heads, e303 cam, MSD ignition, prof products upper/lower manifold, MAC cold air, built t5 with king cobra clutch, cervinis 2000 r hood, cobra grill insert, lx tails, gunmetal 17" cobras, next mod: subframe connectors
How far are you from Allentown?
< 1990 GT Hatch, 306ci, MAC Equal Shorty, UPR O/R X Pipe, MAC cat-back, Pro 5.0 shifter, FRPP 3.73s, Underdrive Pulleys, Roush 200 series heads, e303 cam, MSD ignition, prof products upper/lower manifold, MAC cold air, built t5 with king cobra clutch, cervinis 2000 r hood, cobra grill insert, lx tails, gunmetal 17" cobras, next mod: subframe connectors
How far are you from Allentown?
1/28/07, 11:20 PM
#13
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh you're up near State College somewhere? That's about 2.5-3 hours from me. If you go to Maple Grove events, I'll be up there with the stang. Got any pics of your car?
1/29/07, 12:35 PM
#15
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 17, 2004
Posts: 843
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Went looking under the hood today for a really close inspection and found a bunch of things that need repair/replacement. Of primary concern other than the cracking fan I discovered, was battery corrosion (will replace it plus cables/grounds as well) and more importantly, one of the EGR coolant hoses - the rear one is soft and damp - leaking coolant. Where is this hose routed and can it be replaced without having to remove the throttle body/upper intake manifold? Is the hose a "generic" type (heater?) hose or is it something only obtainable at the dealership? Seems I'm getting off to a rocky start with this one...
Maybe SVPaul can chime in here, but I think the hose is routed to your heater core circuit. Might want to check out your heater core as well. The original ones were noted for lasting only about 10 years in a fox. Now you can purchase a HD one.
Curious 5.0...... Are you going to keep it original or mod it?
good luck
1/29/07, 03:31 PM
#16
Former Vendor
Join Date: January 11, 2007
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You might want to purchase a new heater core, as stated above, along with the new hoses. Might as well get a heavy duty for racing coolant hose set, since you'll be draining the fluid.
Call me if you need a price on the heater core, hoses, etc.
To be honest, these are all small problems. You did well! Nice car, good luck!
Call me if you need a price on the heater core, hoses, etc.
To be honest, these are all small problems. You did well! Nice car, good luck!
1/29/07, 05:37 PM
#17
Service Manager
Went looking under the hood today for a really close inspection and found a bunch of things that need repair/replacement. Of primary concern other than the cracking fan I discovered, was battery corrosion (will replace it plus cables/grounds as well) and more importantly, one of the EGR coolant hoses - the rear one is soft and damp - leaking coolant. Where is this hose routed and can it be replaced without having to remove the throttle body/upper intake manifold? Is the hose a "generic" type (heater?) hose or is it something only obtainable at the dealership? Seems I'm getting off to a rocky start with this one...
When you do replace the heater core...buy ONLY a Ford heater core!!! I can't stress this enough! The aftermarket ones are thinner and the Ford one has an extra attaching point brazed to one of the tubes that helps keep it from cracking at the base of the core while installing or removing hoses....I've seen this happen more times than I can remember which is why I strongly suggest using the Ford core...it's a little more money but worth it when you only have to do the job once
.When you are ready for a 3G kit drop me a line....I can hook you up there
.As far as the coolant hoses, the Ford Racing silicone hose kit is only correct complete kit out there and is worth the money. I can also help you there if needed.
Just take the car one step at a time and address the most important issues first....these cars are mostly bulletproof and a blast to own & drive...Enjoy!
1/29/07, 10:39 PM
#18
FR500 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: August 15, 2005
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ha ha, I should give myself a big 
for not thinking of that sooner! I was discussing the very same thing with a co-worker (ex-mechanic) and yes, after getting home from work I tried it... but I can't reach that far down! I could only see it as far as where the #4(?) fuel injector is located. It gets better. I tried pulling the hose off from the egr plate end and found the fitting to be corroded (it rusted all the way through at one part toward the tip). The inside was like a clogged artery full of rusty junk even though the coolant itself was clean. That probably explains the new radiator! I used a syringe to try and pull as much of the crud out as I could. Looks like maybe the egr valve sensor and the two (things?) mounted on the back of the upper intake manifold will have to be removed/disconnected to get access... yay. For now I'll just buy about 2ft. of heater hose, cut a small section and use a hose coupler until I can find the time to do all that ("the big weekend" coming up, right?), then get the cooling system flushed. My '88 LX had the Ford Racing silicone hose set - good stuff - too bad the egr plate coolant hoses aren't part of the deal. As for the 3G upgrade, I have to let the ($$$) recover a bit, we'll see...
As much as I would like to modify the car, I intend to keep it as stock appearing as possible (it still has the distributor boot and intake resonator! though it'll go soon) the only "mods" I'm interested in for now are geared toward reliability and safety.
for not thinking of that sooner! I was discussing the very same thing with a co-worker (ex-mechanic) and yes, after getting home from work I tried it... but I can't reach that far down! I could only see it as far as where the #4(?) fuel injector is located. It gets better. I tried pulling the hose off from the egr plate end and found the fitting to be corroded (it rusted all the way through at one part toward the tip). The inside was like a clogged artery full of rusty junk even though the coolant itself was clean. That probably explains the new radiator! I used a syringe to try and pull as much of the crud out as I could. Looks like maybe the egr valve sensor and the two (things?) mounted on the back of the upper intake manifold will have to be removed/disconnected to get access... yay. For now I'll just buy about 2ft. of heater hose, cut a small section and use a hose coupler until I can find the time to do all that ("the big weekend" coming up, right?), then get the cooling system flushed. My '88 LX had the Ford Racing silicone hose set - good stuff - too bad the egr plate coolant hoses aren't part of the deal. As for the 3G upgrade, I have to let the ($$$) recover a bit, we'll see...As much as I would like to modify the car, I intend to keep it as stock appearing as possible (it still has the distributor boot and intake resonator! though it'll go soon) the only "mods" I'm interested in for now are geared toward reliability and safety.
