Rally pac clock light
7/28/04, 10:28 AM
#1
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I have a 1965 Mustang fastback with a 6000 rpm tachometer on the rally pac (see photo attached—it is the same clock as in the brochure photo at the bottom but the tach is not an 8000 rpm.)
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Is there a replacement part for the light in this clock? If so, can it easily be installed? Where & how can I purchase the part? If it is as simple as changing a light bulb, where do you buy it, and how do you replace it?
More importantly, would I risk upsetting the operation of the clock by trying to get the light to work? Clock operation and function is more important to me than the light, although I would like to get the light to work if I safely can.
Someone please advise. Thank you.
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Is there a replacement part for the light in this clock? If so, can it easily be installed? Where & how can I purchase the part? If it is as simple as changing a light bulb, where do you buy it, and how do you replace it?
More importantly, would I risk upsetting the operation of the clock by trying to get the light to work? Clock operation and function is more important to me than the light, although I would like to get the light to work if I safely can.
Someone please advise. Thank you.
7/28/04, 10:32 AM
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You should be able to replace the bulb without causing any damage to the clock. IIRC there are a few (2 or 3) screws that hold the clock in the housing, remove them and the clock will slide out the front. You may have to create some slack in the wire harness in order to do this. It may also be easier if the RallyPac was not attached to the steering column.
7/28/04, 08:57 PM
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The 1895 and the 1816 are BOTH listed for a Rally-Pak bulb, depending on which chart you believe. The 1816 is slightly longer (and brighter) than the 1895, but some people have reported that the 1816 sometimes melts the blue plastic diffuser. 
I'd do the 1895 if it were MY Rally-pak. :nono:
I'd do the 1895 if it were MY Rally-pak. :nono:
8/5/04, 01:49 PM
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I purchased both bulbs--- # 1895 & #1816. I've now seen the 1895 listed for the tach, and the 1816 for the clock (I don't understand why it wouldn't be the same bulb for either application.)
They both look rather big for the rally pac clock. The 1895 is more round, the 1816 is a bit more oval or oblong shaped.
I was expecting a small, thin, oblong type bulb. Are we sure these are the correct bulbs, before I endeavor to take the clock apart?
Also, I'd again like to inquire as to the confidence level that taking the clock apart to change the bulb won't mess up the accurate running of the clock.
Thanks.
They both look rather big for the rally pac clock. The 1895 is more round, the 1816 is a bit more oval or oblong shaped.
I was expecting a small, thin, oblong type bulb. Are we sure these are the correct bulbs, before I endeavor to take the clock apart?
Also, I'd again like to inquire as to the confidence level that taking the clock apart to change the bulb won't mess up the accurate running of the clock.
Thanks.
8/29/04, 09:08 PM
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Hey guys---Yesterday I finally tackled the job of removing the Rally Pac from the steering column, opened the clock, and replaced that pesky light bulb. I removed an 1895 (totally blown, the lens was all black); but replaced it with the 1816 as that one is more oblong and seemed to get more light to the face / dial of the clock. I guess that's why the 1816 is listed in parts catalog for the clock (1895 is for the tach). Turned out to be an easier job that I anticipated, and the light an the clock both work fine now. Looks cool lit up at night. Thanks to all for their input and comments.
8/29/04, 09:11 PM
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I also opened up the tach to check out that bulb, because the tach light is white / amber, while the clock lights up green (even with a clear lens bulb) like the rest of the guages. But the tach light is apparently inside the inner housing, and with all the electronics on the tach I figured I better quit while I was ahead. Besides, the whiter light allows me to seet he tach readings better at night, so as to avoid excessive RPMs. 
1/29/10, 08:37 PM
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Per above : [quote=maucoin65;4442209] I have a 1965 Mustang fastback with a 6000 rpm tachometer on the rally pac (see photo attached—it is the same clock as in the brochure photo at the bottom but the tach is not an 8000 rpm.)
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Well it finally happened. The most accurate clock I own, in the Rally Pac of my 1965 fastback, suddenly and inexplicably stopped running. It is getting power, as the light bulb still works, as does the tachometer and its light bulb.
Any ideas as to why it stopped running? More importantly, what is the easiest way to get it running again?
Someone please advise. Thank you.
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Well it finally happened. The most accurate clock I own, in the Rally Pac of my 1965 fastback, suddenly and inexplicably stopped running. It is getting power, as the light bulb still works, as does the tachometer and its light bulb.
Any ideas as to why it stopped running? More importantly, what is the easiest way to get it running again?
Someone please advise. Thank you.
Last edited by maucoin65; 1/29/10 at 08:39 PM.
2/8/10, 05:18 PM
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the rally pac clocks work off a set of points similar to your ignition, as the clock ticks the points get closer until they finally touch and that resets the timer, you can normally file the points and the clock will work again but eventually the points wear and you need to keep filing them down. I got tired of the yearly clock stopping and not keeping accurate time and switched to a quartz conversion kit. Looks original but keeps better time and you never have to mess with it. You can find them on e-Bay around $80. Fairly easy to do.
Mitch
Mitch
2/8/10, 06:57 PM
#15
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Could you post some pics of your car? I haven't seen it before....
[quote=maucoin65;5808402]Per above :
[quote=maucoin65;5808402]Per above :
I have a 1965 Mustang fastback with a 6000 rpm tachometer on the rally pac (see photo attached—it is the same clock as in the brochure photo at the bottom but the tach is not an 8000 rpm.)
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Well it finally happened. The most accurate clock I own, in the Rally Pac of my 1965 fastback, suddenly and inexplicably stopped running. It is getting power, as the light bulb still works, as does the tachometer and its light bulb.
Any ideas as to why it stopped running? More importantly, what is the easiest way to get it running again?
Someone please advise. Thank you.
My question is about the clock. The clock works GREAT, keeps steady time virtually perfectly. So I hate to mess with it. Unfortunately, the light for the clock doesn’t work.
Well it finally happened. The most accurate clock I own, in the Rally Pac of my 1965 fastback, suddenly and inexplicably stopped running. It is getting power, as the light bulb still works, as does the tachometer and its light bulb.
Any ideas as to why it stopped running? More importantly, what is the easiest way to get it running again?
Someone please advise. Thank you.
2/14/10, 12:11 AM
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The clock stared working by itself. It kept perfect time for about 2 weeks, then I noticed the second hand had stopped again. I drove the car for about 20 minutes, and it was still stuck when I got back in the garage. So I "tapped" / rapped on the right side of the clock, not like a hammer but a firm, stiff rap, and the second hand began to move again.
The common denominator on both episodes: we had just experienced some of the coldest weather in quite some time down here in south Louisiana. Even though the car is kept in the garage, it appears that "suddenly" the clock is susceptible to cold weather. I say "suddenly" because this has never happened in the 8 or so years I have owned the car; although we havenot had weather this cold in about 16 years.
I suspect that as the weather warms up consistently and stays warm, that the clock will keep running normally.
My question: Should I go to the trouble of removing the rally pac from the steering column, remove the back of the housing of the clock, and try to lubricate the gears --- either with 3-in-1 oil, or a spray of WD-40? I don't want to risk a "short" in the clock mechanism; but neither do I want the clock to continue to stop intermittently until finally it stops altogether.
Oh, and also note that the clock does not "tick" one second at a time. Rather, the second hand "sweeps" smoothly around the clock dial. Does this mean that it already has a quartz movement or conversion kit in it? If so, what about lubricating the inside of the clock? Does it have gears / parts to lubricate? It does make a faint "grinding" sound as the second hand sweeps.
Please comment. Thanks.
The common denominator on both episodes: we had just experienced some of the coldest weather in quite some time down here in south Louisiana. Even though the car is kept in the garage, it appears that "suddenly" the clock is susceptible to cold weather. I say "suddenly" because this has never happened in the 8 or so years I have owned the car; although we havenot had weather this cold in about 16 years.
I suspect that as the weather warms up consistently and stays warm, that the clock will keep running normally.
My question: Should I go to the trouble of removing the rally pac from the steering column, remove the back of the housing of the clock, and try to lubricate the gears --- either with 3-in-1 oil, or a spray of WD-40? I don't want to risk a "short" in the clock mechanism; but neither do I want the clock to continue to stop intermittently until finally it stops altogether.
Oh, and also note that the clock does not "tick" one second at a time. Rather, the second hand "sweeps" smoothly around the clock dial. Does this mean that it already has a quartz movement or conversion kit in it? If so, what about lubricating the inside of the clock? Does it have gears / parts to lubricate? It does make a faint "grinding" sound as the second hand sweeps.
Please comment. Thanks.
Last edited by maucoin65; 2/14/10 at 12:20 AM. Reason: To clarify the smooth movement of the second hand...
2/14/10, 09:23 AM
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If your second had "sweeps" it has had a quartz conversion. It does still have gears, lubing may help. Check to see if the second hand is rubbing the face of the clock too. May just be the cold weather. I have had to tap mine a few times to get it started after having the battery unhooked.
2/14/10, 09:38 AM
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If your second had "sweeps" it has had a quartz conversion. It does still have gears, lubing may help. Check to see if the second hand is rubbing the face of the clock too. May just be the cold weather. I have had to tap mine a few times to get it started after having the battery unhooked.
Thanks for answering my question about lubrication. I will remove it from the steering column and open it up when I have some time (at a premium lately mostly due to work and also watching replays of the Saints Super Bowl victory !! Who Dat !! ). I also appreciate your comment about having to tap yours after battery disconnect. This unusually cold weather (for the N.O. area) will be ending soon enough. Once we get back into spring and summer I expect the problem to cease, at least until next winter or maybe beyond.
Anyone have any special tips about lubricating the gears of the quartz converted rally pac clock?? Please advise, soon. Thanks.
2/14/10, 09:45 AM
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[quote=Falchion;5813615]Could you post some pics of your car? I haven't seen it before....
I had a bunch of photos on TMS of both "Rachel" the '65 fastback, and my Windveil Blue 2005 GT, but they got lost in one of the site crashes a while back and I haven't frequented the site often enough recently to post new pics. I will try to share a few of Rachel here....
I had a bunch of photos on TMS of both "Rachel" the '65 fastback, and my Windveil Blue 2005 GT, but they got lost in one of the site crashes a while back and I haven't frequented the site often enough recently to post new pics. I will try to share a few of Rachel here....
Last edited by maucoin65; 2/14/10 at 02:23 PM.
