1964-1970 Mustang Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Floor Mount E-Brake Handle

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Old 9/2/04, 11:44 AM
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I know there has been some previous discussion on this subject. I'm starting to think about doing it as well, and stumbled across this link on another forum. Looks good to me! I can find the brake on Lokar's page, but it's not very clear as far as what it includes... Handle (of course), but mounting brackets? Boot? Trim Ring??? :scratch:

Old 9/2/04, 12:03 PM
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maybe a current stangs?
Old 9/2/04, 12:18 PM
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Originally posted by charles@September 2, 2004, 12:06 PM
maybe a current stangs?
for?


Bob, I haven't seen anything on it but it is very interesting. I'm sure it is a lot more durable than the mighty plastic pull handle under the dash too.
Old 9/2/04, 01:01 PM
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Jay
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Knowing Lokar you will get everything mechanically involved in the handle including all mounting hardware. You will not get the boot or ring and you will also not get the cables and actual hardware to connect the cables. But from a functional standpoint it will all be there.

Another thought, wonder if you could replace the pull handle mech. and use the space to mount a pedal brake:



That would take big hairy ones ... where's the mod :cop: ?
Old 9/2/04, 01:10 PM
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Originally posted by Jay@September 2, 2004, 2:04 PM
Another thought, wonder if you could replace the pull handle mech. and use the space to mount a pedal brake:


That would be really cool.


I too would like to do an alternative parking brake. I've got to decide how that'll work with my custom console idea... :scratch:
Old 9/2/04, 01:32 PM
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Aaaacccckkkk! That would be FIVE pedals under the dash. :shock: :scratch: :nono:

I'm leaning toward the floor mount, since it should make hookup much easier. With the T5 crossmember & X-pipe competing for the same space as the 65 E-brake equalizer, things are tight. The floor-mounted lever mounts a little further back, which SHOULD help out on space...
Old 9/2/04, 01:54 PM
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...something wrong with a brick behind the tire?
________
LollyDolly cam

Last edited by LMan; 8/20/11 at 08:24 AM.
Old 9/2/04, 02:29 PM
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Originally posted by GT350Clone@September 2, 2004, 3:35 PM
Aaaacccckkkk! That would be FIVE pedals under the dash. :shock: :scratch: :nono:
If you're using more than 2 at one time you've got bigger problems
Old 9/2/04, 02:50 PM
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Better make that 3. He could be heel-toe shifting.
Old 9/2/04, 03:29 PM
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BTW we could also have a discussion in here about replacing the plastic handle with something a little firmer. Has anyone replaced a handle on the car? What is involved? Any tricks?
Old 9/2/04, 03:44 PM
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IIRC, they are attached with a roll pin but harder than heck to get off without breaking the plastic. I'm suprised noone has made a billet handle yet.
Old 9/2/04, 05:57 PM
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Originally posted by Jay+September 2, 2004, 3:32 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Jay @ September 2, 2004, 3:32 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-GT350Clone@September 2, 2004, 3:35 PM
Aaaacccckkkk! That would be FIVE pedals under the dash. :shock: :scratch: :nono:
If you're using more than 2 at one time you've got bigger problems [/b][/quote]
Nah, if you use more than 2 at once, then you've a REAL man! That, and the ability to lick your eyebrow always impresses the ladies!
Old 9/27/04, 07:35 AM
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For future reference, the following parts are all that's needed for the Lokar setup:

Floor mount E-brake: EHB-7000F - FLOOR MOUNT EMERGENCY HAND BRAKE (~$80)
(includes mounting bracket)
Boot & Trim ring: 70-EHBF - FLOOR MOUNT E-BRAKE BOOT (~$20)

Still sorting out the cable setup, attempting to use my original Versailles cables. If they DON'T work, one of the Lokar cable "kits" WILL work, even with the Versailles rear. Those part #s are:
EC-80FU - UNIVERSAL EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES BLACK HOUSING
EC-80FHT - UNIVERSAL HI-TECH STAINLESS BRAID BRAKE CABLES

More to follow...
Old 10/23/04, 12:26 PM
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UPDATE!

Here's what it looks like installed. Took about 3 hours start to finish - less if my neighbor would've brought my cutoff tool back after he borrowed it.

You do need to pull the seats and the rear carpet section. You cut a slot in the tunnel about 6" long that varies from 1/2"-3/4" in width. Really, a pretty easy install.

Haven't hooked the cables up, as I need to shorten them, and the good end crimping tools are at work... :nono:





Old 10/25/04, 08:14 AM
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Very nice... I'd be doing the same if not for the console setup. I've even considered running it side to side just in front of the driver's seat so it would be under my legs while driving ... though in case of emergency it would not be too good.

Maybe I'll mess with the other setup since it is an automagic.
Old 10/25/04, 06:29 PM
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Very nice Bob.

While you were installing it, did you see anything that might cause concern on the stiffness of the tranny? The only reason I ask is that I've heard of people reinforcing the area with additional sheet metal.

I just pulled the e-brake out of my donor 85 GT, and this would pretty much be a necessary mod to pull off the T-5 swap. My current e-brake is worthless.
Old 10/25/04, 08:27 PM
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i think we need to add that to our project car as well. somewhere i have a pic of a factory console with that style e-brake, i'll post it if i can find it.
Old 10/25/04, 08:46 PM
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here is a pic of the e-brake, you have to look close since it isn't the greatest pic, but the shifter **** is not growing out of it like it looks
Old 10/25/04, 08:52 PM
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Pretty hot setup you found. Let's get more details on that one for the project...
Old 10/25/04, 08:54 PM
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Originally posted by BLAKE@October 25, 2004, 7:32 PM
While you were installing it, did you see anything that might cause concern on the stiffness of the tranny? The only reason I ask is that I've heard of people reinforcing the area with additional sheet metal.
I don't feel that any reinforcement was necessary. I did use fender washers between the front locknuts and tunnel to "spread the load". You do cut a ~6" x 3/4" slot in the floor, but given the location, I didn't see any issues. Biggest decision was how to build a rubber boot to keep it weatherproof - used an old lower shift boot for that.


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