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I’m thinking the three wires in this connector coming through the firewall into the engine bay are supposed to connect to 1. Oil pressure sender, 2 temperature sensor and 3 to distributor. Seems like the harness being sold by vendors would be used. Can you confirm or correct this? Thanks in advance!
If The Current Single Gray Wire is Connected To Any of Those 3 Things You Mentioned Then BINGO!
I'm Guessing That is The Coil Wire and You Have Mechanical Gauges. But Just a Guess! Anyhoo If You Did Not Know With The Stock Ignition The Wiring To The Coil Used a Ballast Wire. If The Ignition Has Been Changed It May Not Need That or Has Already Been Eliminated.
Anyhoo That Little Factoid Just Came To Mind Hope it Helps.
Found These Wiring Diagrams Which Maybe Helpful. A Little Denatured Alcohol on a Terri Cloth on Some Of the Wiring May Allow You To See Color Codes
If The Current Single Gray Wire is Connected To Any of Those 3 Things You Mentioned Then BINGO!
I'm Guessing That is The Coil Wire and You Have Mechanical Gauges. But Just a Guess! Anyhoo If You Did Not Know With The Stock Ignition The Wiriing To The Coil Used a Ballast Wire. If The Ignition Has Been Changed It May Not Need That or Has Already Been Eliminated.
Anyhoo That Little Factoid Just Came To Mind Hope it Helps.
Found These Wiring Diagrams Which Maybe Helpful. A Little Denatured Alcohol on a Terri Cloth on Some Of the Wiring May Allow You To See Color Codes
KC
Yes, the existing grey wire with the red connector is currently connected to the HEI distributor (which is scheduled to be replaced). The previous owner did replace the factory oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge so your suspicions are accurate. I am confused about any change to the ignition. I might be getting back to you on that once I do a little investigation. I’m very appreciative of your reply and the diagrams. Thank you.
You Are Welcome! I Started Driving Cars From The 60's When I Got My License in 78!
Basically If You Need To Drop Voltage After Cranking This Is How The Point Setup Did it From Ford. Certain Aftermarket Ignitions May Require A Full 12 Volts At All Time!
Here is What The Original Point Setup Used. It Went Inline With Coil Supply Line!
Stuff Old Ford Parts Guys Knew Back in The Day! Most Don't Know That Wire is Lurking in There!
Check Voltage at Coil While Cranking and After it is Running To Check What You Have.
RESISTOR WIRE, Ignition Coil, replacement, The original resistor wire is buried inside the main under dash wiring loom, It is the thick pink wire near the back of the ignition switch, Customer must splice this wire into the existing loom between the firewall plug and the wire connector behind the ignition switch (usually a red with green stripe wire), This is a duplicate of the original Ford replacement resistor wire
NPD Part Number : 12250-1
Manufacturer Reference #'s: 12251-1RESTW, C0LF-12250-A, DY-37
Vehicle Information
Year-Range (bold) Model (bold) Fits/Applications1965-1968 MUSTANG