jes72mustang

OK here is another part to my Carb dilema:

My electric choke does not appear to work properly. When I go to start the car cold, Turn the key press the gas choke is set(closed). Start the car fine. Let it warm up a while, choke opens up. I start driving and when I get in the gas the choke closes again. Idle goes way up again. I have to shift into "N" or "P" and hit the gas then the choke opens up until I get in the gas then it closes again.

I checked the voltage and it is good. I had taken the choke completely off the carb last summer, made it hard to start but at least I didn't have the choke sticking on me.
So can electric chokes go bad? Is there an adjustment other than the turning the choke richer or leaner and adjusting the fast idle?

Thanks.

LMan

is the choke linkage sticking physically? Ive never had an elec choke, so I dont know personally if that could cause your problem.

jes72mustang

I do not think the linkage is actually sticking, because the choke will open up as the engine warms. BUt then when I get in the gas driving the choke closes again.
I am not surre how to explain it any other way.

ravenblack67

A simple way to test the elctric choke: Remove it. Apply 12 volts to the terminals. Watch the spring begin to move. If it moves, the heater for the spring is good. Test number 2: Put the cap in the refrigerator for an hour or so. Put the cap back on and the choke should close. Turn the igition to ON but do not start. Hold the throttle open just a bit. Watch the choke close. If all is well, the problem is in the return spring.

bnickel

what he said. also depending on what carb you have some of them do have an adjustment screw, but even if your car does, don't try to take the easy way out and try to adjust it first without doing the other checks first, if it hasn't been messed with, it's probably ok or at least close.

jes72mustang

I would say that spring does move. When the engine is cold, I turn the key on but not starting the engine. Press the accellerator and the choke closes. When I actually start the engine and allow the engine to warm up, the choke opens back up. there is 12 volts on the cap. SO I would think that based on the way the choke seems to operate that tests 1 and 2 are not needed.

The choke closes when the engine is cold, after the engine warms up the choke opens, as it should. When I start driving and get into the gas, the choke closes again. The choke will open back up if I shift into N or P and hit the gas.


Tell me more about the return spring.