docthomas

350 HP 302 with 3 row radiator from Mustangs Plus (less than 3 years old)

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant...ory_Code=3-Row

I have an electric fan and the Hurricane A/C system from Old Air Products FW Texas

Runs well, here in Texas, but days like today I drove it in the AM and it ran beautifully, but as the day went on and temps are 95+ and heat index is near 100 the engine temps hit almost 230 at red lights with the A/C on high and it will even die sometimes. If I put it in neutral it idles better but still sits around 225-230. If I rev the engine slightly it runs better briefly. At speed it runs very well and will drop down arond 220. I have a 190 Tstat and it is working fine.

If I turn off the A/C obviously it works better but really doesn't run cooler.

50/50 mix of AF and water and even added some water wetter (red bottle) concoction on someones suggestion in the past. No real benefit noted. Is this temnp a problem? Should I be concerned?

I can bump the idle speed ever so slightly and cure the red light proble I'm sure. (dying at the light) but it won't cure my cooling problem.

If I change the radiator, I think I'd go with an aluminum one and in my mind griffin is the first name that comes to mind. Looking at summit, I found their "direct fit" model for almost half the price of the griffin and I assume it would let me keep the same e-fan and set-up that I have. Does anyone have experience with summits aluminum radiators? Are they worth having?

Other issue is what temp should I expect coming from the A/C ducts on HIGH. and best way to measure. It blows cooler than ambient air but I don't know what I should be happy with to know it is working optimally. I have a laser themometer I use on the engine block and other things. Will that work for this? The A/C condensor that came with the kit is mounted in front of the radiator, it is aluminum and I used radiator paint to make it black. This didn't ruin the condensor did it?

Is 230 too hot and with this setup what can I/should I change?
Thanks

Shawn

docthomas

OK, I advanced the idle speed about an 1/8 of a turn.

Took it out for a good drive with some Red Light time. Also took along my laser thermometer. less problem with trying to die at idle but I think some of this may be compounded by a new found alternator belt slippage.

My gauge is an autogage under dash increments on the temp of importance are like this

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1019/...ccaf0a01e4.jpg

The concern is that the the needle sits between the || and the 230 as shown above. Usually very close to 230 but not touching.

but after a good drive and the needle where it is shown above I went under the hood. Measurements were as follows:

Upper radiator hose 188
Water Pump 205
Cylinder head 205
Radiator Top/fins 195
Intake manifold 175


What should I make of this?

Oh, and the A/C vents put out about 52 degrees (so plenty cold)

n8rfastback

maybe your temp gauge is a little off? it sounds like you have done enough mods to keep the engine cool enough. if overheating stays, maybe look at getting a better fan, or even a dual fan setup that pulls more cubic feet of air than the one you have now.

ravenblack67

Your measurements appear to be within normal range. Check your timing. Too much advance? Mine makes me nervous in mid summer in traffic but I'm staring at the gauge all the time. Your thermostat should be 195 so 220 is not excessive. The stalling could be vapor lock between the fuel pump and the carb. Make sure your fuel line has plenty of air around it. Despite popular opinion, copper/brass is a superior heat exchanger compared to aluminium. The switch in modern cars is for weight savings. Did you paint your radiator? Too much paint will reduce heat rejection.

docthomas

I have painted the radiator but i used "radiator paint" not sure if thaty matters.

Suggestion was made to check air/fuel mixture which I was going to do. This is pretty new in the last few weeks after adding the A/C back and upping to a 130 amp alternator

Shawn

karman

Perhaps with the addition of A/C and high amp alt. may have decreased your water pump's abilities (much more accessory belt drag)?
Think about it, modern cars quite often bump the idle speed when the A/C is on.