To bump steer or not to bump steer?
8/2/04, 12:19 PM
#1
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I have the G/West UCA and LCA on my car, I used the variable rate springs from Promotive sports. I still don't have everything installed or bolted in place but the car does sit a lot lower than before.
Since I have decided to take the entire winter to assemble the remainder of the car, I am thinking over carefully every move and purchase. I noticed from posts and vehicle information from many of you that have lowered the ride height, you have also added a bump steer correction kit. So he question I have is, were these really needed? Should I replace the outer tie rod ends and those fragile looking adjusting sleeves with one of these kits? It make sense for me to do this before I take the car for an alignment, while that is still a few months out I am trying to plan ahead.
TIA for your help and opinions, Jeff
Since I have decided to take the entire winter to assemble the remainder of the car, I am thinking over carefully every move and purchase. I noticed from posts and vehicle information from many of you that have lowered the ride height, you have also added a bump steer correction kit. So he question I have is, were these really needed? Should I replace the outer tie rod ends and those fragile looking adjusting sleeves with one of these kits? It make sense for me to do this before I take the car for an alignment, while that is still a few months out I am trying to plan ahead.
TIA for your help and opinions, Jeff
8/2/04, 12:44 PM
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It's a quick add on if it is needed. I would wait until you get to drive it and feel it out or if you are that interested you can build a rig at home to measure it.... if that's what you want to do then another post is in order 
8/2/04, 01:25 PM
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It depends..... 
65/66 cars seem to have more bumpsteer issues than the 67-up cars. With your suspension changes, I'm betting you will have some issues. The best time to check bumpsteer is during assembly, before the springs are in.
Checking bumpsteer basically involves setting the toe to zero at ride height, then measuring & graphing toe at 1" height intervals thruout normal suspension travel. To just get an approximate feel, you can take the measurements with a tape measure. Now, if you're building a "racerod" and want to get down to the "gnat's behind", you can build or buy a bumpsteer gauge.
Everybody I have ever known that took the time to measure bumpsteer ended up getting the corrector kit. :R:
65/66 cars seem to have more bumpsteer issues than the 67-up cars. With your suspension changes, I'm betting you will have some issues. The best time to check bumpsteer is during assembly, before the springs are in.
Checking bumpsteer basically involves setting the toe to zero at ride height, then measuring & graphing toe at 1" height intervals thruout normal suspension travel. To just get an approximate feel, you can take the measurements with a tape measure. Now, if you're building a "racerod" and want to get down to the "gnat's behind", you can build or buy a bumpsteer gauge.
Everybody I have ever known that took the time to measure bumpsteer ended up getting the corrector kit. :R:
8/2/04, 04:43 PM
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How do the tie rod adjustment sleeves correct bumpsteer? I haven't yet figured that one out. As far as I can tell, they only adjust toe, which has nothing to do with bumpsteer.
Educate me.
Educate me.
8/2/04, 05:09 PM
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Bumpsteer is corrected by changing the height of the outer tie rod end where it attaches to the spindle. Changing that distance changes the angle of the tierod assembly to more closely match the lower arm.
The black pins in the picture go into the spindle, and the large aluminum sleeve takes the place of the conventional tierod sleeve. The heim joint screws into the aluminum sleeve, and attaches to the black pin. The gold spacers are used in various quantities either above or below the heim joint to change the distance/angle.
Clear as mud?
Most of my spacers (all but 1) ended up between the heim joint & spindle. That's nearly an inch of adjustment needed! :shock:
The black pins in the picture go into the spindle, and the large aluminum sleeve takes the place of the conventional tierod sleeve. The heim joint screws into the aluminum sleeve, and attaches to the black pin. The gold spacers are used in various quantities either above or below the heim joint to change the distance/angle.
Clear as mud?
Most of my spacers (all but 1) ended up between the heim joint & spindle. That's nearly an inch of adjustment needed! :shock:
3/15/05, 09:11 AM
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3/15/05, 12:50 PM
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Originally posted by Jay@August 2, 2004, 12:47 PM
It's a quick add on if it is needed. I would wait until you get to drive it and feel it out or if you are that interested you can build a rig at home to measure it.... if that's what you want to do then another post is in order
It's a quick add on if it is needed. I would wait until you get to drive it and feel it out or if you are that interested you can build a rig at home to measure it.... if that's what you want to do then another post is in order
3/15/05, 01:21 PM
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