SoFlo Mustang

Hey all,

im the market for a mustang, and i drove a 66 vert recently that i loved. it had a 289 hi-po, sounded awesome. so it got me thinking and i think i want to build a 67/68 mustang (favorite years) instead of a newer 05-09.

so i stumbled upon this:

http://www.oldride.com/classic_cars/437281.html

Is this a good starting point? Bad that its not a 'real' fastback? Im not too worried about resale/collectability tell me your thoughts on starting on a slate such as that. all comments welcome. should i just look for a 67/68 fastback in crap condition and revive it? or start from that?


also,

money IS an issue. so, how much would it cost me to turn that rolling shell into a drivable car? im talking completed interior and exterior.

how much would an engine/drive train/suspension/exhaust/wheels tires/ interior/ sound system/ everything cost me (guessing)??? im looking at a budget around 25 to 30k. i can do some of the installation myself, but things like engine/suspension, no. im handy, but not THAT good


please share your opinions,

hope to be joining you soon.

BA Mustang

Thing is about them you have to get a VIN from the DMV, they do not come with one.

karman

They have a coupe VIN
" Shells come with a Mustang VIN number and Clean Title"
http://www.desertclassicmustangs.com...back_9000.html

BA Mustang

Ah I misread the ad, I thought it was a dynacorn shell. For that I think it isn't a bad price

Falchion

It sounds like a decent price if they replace the rusty sheet metal with new. That would give you a solid base to start from, but I don't know if you would stay in your budget?

BA Mustang

Are you looking at getting a crate engine or just one from ebay or craigslist?


If you did everything I could see about $25,000. But it would probably be several thousand extra to pay someone, especially when the paint job would be around $3000.


I would try to find a coupe that is in running condition and minimal rust for cheap. Then buy the fastback conversion kit and pay someone to install it.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atKey=EMUSTANG
After that you would just need new rear window glass, fastback rear seat (frames not reproduced), and paint. I might be forgetting a couple things though.

OKLACOP

Eric,

I'm in the middle of a restoration of my 68 fastback. I'm doing a Bullitt recreation. I can tell you right now that if you start with the Desert Classic Mustangs fastback conversion you will save a little money over a Dynacorn, but......YOU WILL NOT stay within your budget. Here are some things to think about. Body work & paint. These shells are not paint ready. That will be around $5k to 10k, a complete interior = $2500, complete suspension (front and rear) = $2000, complete wiring harness $600, lights, radiator, motor = $$$$$$$$, drive shaft, door handles, trim, weather strip, transmission, clutch assembly, grill, valances, glass = $$$$$$$, vent window frames and windows = $600, gas tank, filler neck, brakes, spindles, bumpers, winshield wipers, screw sets, bolt sets, door locks, etc, etc, etc...........I think you get the point. You can get a lot of this stuff off of Ebay, Craigslist, forums, and other classifieds, but even if you save some money by bargain shopping for parts, you will still be buying a lot of new parts.

I almost went this direction, but I was a little patient and found a fastback that was a good driver for $25k-ish. I drove it for a little while before I started tearing it down. I was able to keep all of the above listed parts needed except for a few of the items. I did sell the motor out of it to offset the new 302 I had built. Most of this stuff can be cleaned up and made presentable with a little elbow grease. You will spend a hell of a lot more in the long run if you start with a shell and nothing else and build it piece by piece. I've put a pen to it and I research stuff to death. You will have a minium of $45k-$50k in the car if you start with a shell.

I'm no expert, not by a long shot, but this is my second 68 and I've learned a lot, especially with my second one. You can follow my project under this section (1st/2nd generation). Feel free to pm me with any questions. If I don't know the answer I'll do my best to find it for you.

Good luck.

Rob

wsmatau

I'll second Rob's comment. Don't start down this road without doing some serious research or else you'll end up in one of two camps:
1) Owning a gorgeous $70k car that is only worth $35 (i.e you couldn't sell it for half of what you have spent)

or

2) You'll buy some parts and then lose motivation/money and get out 1/2way through the project. Check Ebay or CraigsList they are on there all the time.

If you are patient and picky, you can find a real nice authentic driver for under $35k. Check with Cloud9, he has a really nice car on his website for that ballpark. Or scour the ads to find a half done project that you can finish for just a little more time/effort/money.
I'm in the same boat as you with a pretty significant budget (up to $40k) and I've been working the want ads for over 6 months. The right car will come along and when it does, be ready to pounce!

Frank

SoFlo Mustang

Thanks for your ideas. My browser is just full of autotrader, cars.com, n Craigslist. Been looking for about a month. Where else should I look? Thanks,

Eric

BA Mustang

Ebay

wsmatau

The "best" place to look IMO is a local car show or MCA club. Those guys generally take really good care of their cars. Even if they aren't for sale, they usually know where one IS for sale. A little small talk goes a long way.
Ebay has some nice cars as well, but you really need to do your homework, as well as pay for an inspection if the car is not close to you. I've pursued two cars from Ebay and neither one turned out to be nearly as nice as the description and pictures led me to believe.
Mecum is also a place where deals can be found, unless you are looking at top tier cars on Friday/Sat nights. The key is to be patient.

SoFlo Mustang

I just had a 1970 Mach 1 show up in my area that I really like (found on Craigslist). A little expensive but nice. What are key things to look for on those vehicles? And once I get the VIN ill see if it's a 'real' Mach 1

dudley

Checking car shows was a very good suggestion. If you can swing the $$$, get one already done so you can start driving and enjoying immediately. You can pick up a project and spread the cost over time, and enjoy & learn a lot, but it could be a while till you are driving it. Good luck, and don't rush.
I started restoring a '68 and when I was over half way done I found an unrestored original low mileage (11,475 mi) '68 that I bought then eventually sold the restored car. I was going to have a lot more $$$ into the restoration than what I paid for the unrestored car with more options in it. It was a no brainer at least for me.

SoFlo Mustang

That makes sense. any pictures?


Fyi all who r interested, going to be looking at a 1970 Mach 1 this saturday! Super stoked

dudley

added a link to the pix in my sig

Falchion

Looks real good! One of the best I've seen!

Do you mind telling us how much you paid?

dudley

I feel I got it for a good price since I got it before the unrestored interest began peaking. Four weeks after getting it I took it to a car show and was offered 5K more than what I paid.
It is still equipped with almost all its factory parts which includes just about everything on the entire engine. A few replaced tune up items are period correct NOS parts (points, condensor, rotor gas & oil filters) all the hoses and belts and wires are original. Been gathering spare NOS parts as backup if and when the factory items wear out. Have a complete spare exhaust system from the factory with a date code within weeks of the original that's still on the car. Have an unused set of five period correct Goodyear Power Cushion WW tires on the original rims in storage in case I ever get it to an MCA show. Also have an assembly line oil filter as well as a dated original FL1 oil filter. Even the air filter is the correct Autolite brand with the star. All I need is an original date coded battery, but those who have them ask way too much money.

The original owner was 65 years old and had it until her death, when her daughter got it and sold it to a collector around 2001, he then sold it to a collector car dealer in 2003 to help pay for a '68 fastback with 18k miles. I got it from the dealer in April of 2003 and it came directly to me in an enclosed trailer. It was so clean when I got it that I have not had to wash it, only dust and wax. The drivers side rear quarter has been repainted, I was told that the original owner had brushed against the quarter panel during through the years and had scratched the paint quite a bit. I paid 15.5K plus shipping.

I don't take it out much, put less than 400 miles since 2003, only 22 miles since april 2010. It's a used grocery getter so it's value is the low mileage. I don't want anything to damage it and want to keep it under 12K miles as long as possible.

Falchion

Wow, you got a good deal! I thought it was going to be into the 20k range at least. I paid 14.5k for mine and it's in not nearly as good as shape as yours......

Are you sure it's unrestored? It looks to be in such good shape!

dudley

Now back to the real topic here, and the part of converting a coupe to a FB........ I would also like to ask if you are a purist, that converting a coupe to a FB will be a challenging project and perhaps one to be proud of at completion, but I do not know how you or others in the 'hobby' view conversions. I would think it would be a personal viewpoint, if you are as happy with a conversion as a 'real' FB, then go for it, however, I don't know how others will consider a conversion when considering a purchase of one. With many Mustangs now being modded, I would imagine that a conversion would be just as good to the Mustang 'hot rod' crowd. Just for fun, check the website for Fraser Dante restorations and view their offerings. rather pricy, but interesting to window shop none-the-less.
Anyway, please put us posted as to your progress of your search and progress. Dudley

dudley

Yes, it is definitely unrestored, It is loaded with factory markings, stickers, etc. The date codes all line up to the build date, I have even pulled various parts off and looked for the FOMOCO part numbers. I have poked and prodded around it to satisfy me. Besides, the guy who bought it from the family got all the information on it and that nothing was done to it except to keep it maintained. And much of the factory (sloppy) workmanship or quality is evident. The pictures show some of the underside with the primer (it did not get undercoated by the dealership), body color overspray, and the pinch weld blackout paint.

There is also a fun story with this. After I got it from the dealer, I took pictures of it at the Vanderbilt mansion here in Hyde Park NY with the Hudson river in the background. I sent the pictures and a letter to the second owner who got it from the family to inform him of the fate of the car. Since the dealer did not register it to add his name to the paperwork trail, the previous owner was the guy in Calif who bought it from the original owner and all the names and addresses were available on the title. He then called me on the phone. In our conversation I learned that he was originally from this area where I live and was still working for the same company as I do but took a work transfer to Calif. So it was old home week for him talking to me. Just thought it ironic that I bought a car from Calif that turned out to be owned for a short time by someone who used to live not far from me here in NY, and that we worked for the same company.

There are mileage records in the owners manual and oil change stickers under the hood and on the door jams with dates and mileage. For example, it had 1,300 miles at the first yearly check up. In 1987 it had 9,780 miles when the oil was changed.

Since in Calif, the license plate stays with the car from owner to owner, I have the original license plates from day of purchase as well as the dealer's dealership license plate frames and most of the registration cards through the years into the 90's.