Hi guys !!
I'm working on my 65 mustang to run the 1/4 mile in 11 sec . 302 Engine
I changed the original suspension , 351 heads , 69 cobra manifold intake , 650 holly carb , b cam shaft and headers .

Still didn't run it , any advices .

 

Paxton, or bigger motor

 

Let's start from the beginning. What pistons are you running? Transmission? Rear gears? I could be wrong, but I believe 351 heads also have a larger combustion chamber, therefore lowering your compression, ( power killer ) What are the specs of the camshaft? What exactly did you run and finally are you running slicks?

 

Even better question?

How are your driving skills? The infomous "Driver Mod"...lol

What good is it to have all that hp if you're not able to drive it...

 

yes the 351 heads lower the compression.im betting a good set of heads will help quit a bit.

definatly more info need.time your running now including 60 ' time and mph. also tires suspension gears transmission etc etc

 

Youre going to need more mods than that to make it run in the 11s.

 

Need more onfo on the 351 head before jumping on the band wagon that he killed compression. early 302 heads had a 58.2cc volume until about '76 . Early 351W heads had a volume of 60.4cc and larger valves, 2cc is no big deal imo. '77 and up 351 are the same has 302 heads ( save for the bolt holes) and have a 69cc volume, smaller 302 valves and are junk heads.

Yeah they don't match up to most modern aluminum heads but a set of worked early 351w heads are decent imo. Make sure the motor is tuned up, toss on some slicks and run it. 11s are going to be tough.

 

This is the info of my car ...

The heads are WINDSOR SR. IRON HEADS ..
AOD trans ..
8.8" rear end .
Wild wheels .
Moroso Oil pan ..
Headers ..
265 65 15 radial tires rear
215 65 15 front

 

First change I would make would be your suspension, a good suspension goes a loooooonnnnggggg way. If you not running drag radials and the biggest ones you can fit in the rear already you should be (im entirely sure if you mean street radials).

Next, get yourself a good set of heads, some trick flows or AFRs will do you much better then the iron heads you have now IMO.


What gears are you running currently? You want to be at least running 4.10s if not 4.56s.


In reality, you dont need an insane amount of hp to run 11's, you just need all the other supporting pieces in place.

 

An iron headed motor can run.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...ior-heads.html

play around on here, plenty of info on iron headed motors putting down decent numbers.

 

Iron headed motors can run.they can be made the same as aluminum.but aluminum does have its advantages.lighter,disapate heat better, and can be ported and smoothed easier.with that being said there are lots of good iron heads out there that will get the job done.

 

Thank you guys. For your advices

 

Another thing, the AOD was designed for fuel economy pure and simple. It can be made to run hard, A 3000 stall converter at the very least and a high quality recalibration kit from someone like TransGo. 4.10 rear gears at the very least to compensate for the un-performance like ratios of the AOD.

 

wouldn't argue aluminum vs iron. If someone already has a decent set of irons having them toss them for no reason really isn't great advice imo. If it was an upgrade/new head topic then by sure sending someone towards aluminum makes good sense just about all of time. There are a couple of sick dart headed stangs in my area, they like iron and thier cars run like animals. Brian ( I think is his name) notch ran 11.98 and quicker with irons, I used to have a link to his vid but I'd have to find it.

 

What about traction bars?

I know these classics have terrible wheel hop, so I wonder if you aren't getting that when you launch.

 

Agree 100%. No reason to change just cause they are iron.

 

As was said above, the AOD in stock form is NOT even remotely going to put the stock hp or anything serious to the ground well and they are just notoriously poor, yet a properly built with upgraded friction bands and valve body inside the trans along with a High Quality Stall converter is definitely required to dependably get power to the ground and make good use of the Hp you make.
The state of your engine, is it a stocker 302 or a fresh rebuild with good compression, and what is the compression of the pistons for starters let alone the effective compression depending on heads used along with cam selection. You may have to go with a stroker build if you don't have enough compression and good cam/heads/intake setup, depending on the weight of your car with you in the seat and what gear ration your running all make a difference with a smaller engine. Now a stroker say a 347 will easily get you into the 11's with a decent tranny made to handle the power, now getting into 11's and low 11's are not the same and with carefull planning can be done.

Don't forget Drag Radials to get all that power to the ground cause a 60ft slower than 1.70's is wasting a few tenth's right from the get go and you won't even get close without DR's.

Isn't this Fun Though, enjoy and make changes slowly and you'll begin to find out what your car responds to and what works good and what didn't.

Have fun and be safe!!

 

do anything you can to drop weight. these cars are super light, so any extra lbs you can shed will help even that much more. it gets pricey, but fiberglass hoods and deck lids are easy to come by. How much do you weigh? I just lost 30 lbs over the winter and I expect my car to perform better just because of that.

aluminum drive shafts also decreases rotational weight.