Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel Recommendations
11/9/10, 04:36 PM
#1
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Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel Recommendations
Time for a new clutch in my 07 GT. A resurfacing of the stock flywheel is going to be ~100 so I'm thinking about going with a new aluminum flywheel. I am naturally aspirated now but will be going with FI in about 18 months when it's paid off.
Looking for recommendations on clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing if needed. Any advice would be great!
Thanks!
Looking for recommendations on clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing if needed. Any advice would be great!
Thanks!
11/10/10, 12:25 AM
#2
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I'd go with an Exedy Racing Clutch.
Ford Racing uses them. They are AWESOME and do not cost as much as the
Mcloed twin discs, which can empty your **** pockets.
Any other clutch I cannot recommend because they are all hit and miss on problems.
Depending on your HP goals I would go with the Exedy Mach 500 or Mach 600.
I would also go with their STEEL flywheel.
Yes I said STEEL.
Why? Well their steel flywheels are almost as light as aluminum ones.
They do not have the downsides of aluminum flywheels either.
So... you get the best of BOTH worlds with their flywheel.
Their clutches have a GREAT feel to them too.
They give you a slight bit more bite than stock... but they dont
grab so hard you have to be either on or off the clutch as most
aftermarket clutches are.
Blowbyracing carries them.
If you call around and do research you will find that everything I have said is true. I spent ALOT of time doing research before I made the decision to go with this brand clutch and flywheel.
Do some research, call around... call places like Blowbyracing and Brenspeed.
Ask them their opinions and I guarantee you they will tell you what I am telling you.
Good luck and remember, getting the right clutch can be a PAIN in the ***.
Do it right the FIRST time. That or run into problems and end up switching clutches a number of times like I had too, and spending money on having the transmission taken down multiple times. It can cost you a BOATLOAD before you know it.
Whatever you do... stay the HELL away from SPEC and Centerforce.
I'd also stay away from RAM regardless of what others say.
I'd go with either EXEDY or Mcloed. I have even heard of problems with
Mcloed if they are'nt the twin disc ones that cost a boat load.
I have even heard of problems with those but they are few and far inbetween.
EXEDY is the only clutch I have heard 100% satisfaction with.
And like I said they don't cost as much as Mcloed Twin Disc either.
Oh P.S. the Exedy clutch kits come with a throw out bearing included!
I had a new Ford one already on hand so I used it.
But now I also have this one for years down the road if I need it.
Good luck on your decision!
Ford Racing uses them. They are AWESOME and do not cost as much as the
Mcloed twin discs, which can empty your **** pockets.
Any other clutch I cannot recommend because they are all hit and miss on problems.
Depending on your HP goals I would go with the Exedy Mach 500 or Mach 600.
I would also go with their STEEL flywheel.
Yes I said STEEL.
Why? Well their steel flywheels are almost as light as aluminum ones.
They do not have the downsides of aluminum flywheels either.
So... you get the best of BOTH worlds with their flywheel.
Their clutches have a GREAT feel to them too.
They give you a slight bit more bite than stock... but they dont
grab so hard you have to be either on or off the clutch as most
aftermarket clutches are.
Blowbyracing carries them.
If you call around and do research you will find that everything I have said is true. I spent ALOT of time doing research before I made the decision to go with this brand clutch and flywheel.
Do some research, call around... call places like Blowbyracing and Brenspeed.
Ask them their opinions and I guarantee you they will tell you what I am telling you.
Good luck and remember, getting the right clutch can be a PAIN in the ***.
Do it right the FIRST time. That or run into problems and end up switching clutches a number of times like I had too, and spending money on having the transmission taken down multiple times. It can cost you a BOATLOAD before you know it.
Whatever you do... stay the HELL away from SPEC and Centerforce.
I'd also stay away from RAM regardless of what others say.
I'd go with either EXEDY or Mcloed. I have even heard of problems with
Mcloed if they are'nt the twin disc ones that cost a boat load.
I have even heard of problems with those but they are few and far inbetween.
EXEDY is the only clutch I have heard 100% satisfaction with.
And like I said they don't cost as much as Mcloed Twin Disc either.
Oh P.S. the Exedy clutch kits come with a throw out bearing included!
I had a new Ford one already on hand so I used it.
But now I also have this one for years down the road if I need it.
Good luck on your decision!
Last edited by Blacksmoke; 11/10/10 at 12:27 AM.
11/14/10, 05:48 PM
#5
Legacy TMS Member
I know about the centrifugal weight issue on Centerforce clutches, but whats up with SPEC and RAM, I've got to replace the clutch in my GT500 (for well known reasons) and I was looking at SPEC's double disc clutch/aluminum flywheel (which seems to be the go to set for alot of GT500 guys)?
11/15/10, 11:38 AM
#6
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I got the Spec 3+ with the Spec Alum flywheel. With the alum flywheel you need to keep the RPM's up in traffic because you are missing the rotating mass of the steel flywheel, other than that no problems soo far. The spec 3+ is a ***** to drive in traffic because it is verry difficult to slip it and has the tendency to jerk to car if don't hit the RPM's just right on takeoff. Other than that I have no problems with the combo and it seems to hold the power well (465whp / 450wtq).
my 0.02c
my 0.02c
11/15/10, 04:10 PM
#7
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I carry Exedy, ACT, Centerforce, Competition Clutch, Fidanza, Ram, Zoom and Spec. All brands I carry, can't try everyone in my Mustang, but have run most of them in something or another. Yes, I know that my website has next to nothing on it for clutches, and I'm sorry about that--but I've got my hands full most of the time with other stuff and find it difficult to add more parts....
I think Exedy is an excellent choice and would be at the top of the list if you were to call me. ACT's are great as well. I haven't used a Competition Clutch and my track record with Spec is long enough that I personally never recommend them unless we have no other choice (here we do). I will sell them, some folks are hell-bent on them--but it's not my preference.
Anyway, I'm happy to help. Most know me for suspension work, which is great but I have this stuff as well.
I think Exedy is an excellent choice and would be at the top of the list if you were to call me. ACT's are great as well. I haven't used a Competition Clutch and my track record with Spec is long enough that I personally never recommend them unless we have no other choice (here we do). I will sell them, some folks are hell-bent on them--but it's not my preference.
Anyway, I'm happy to help. Most know me for suspension work, which is great but I have this stuff as well.
11/21/10, 05:07 AM
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Like I said before I think SPEC is garbage on the S197.
If you get a good working SPEC with no problems on these cars
I'd say you are one of the lucky ones.
As far as their customer service is concerned.
In my opinion they give a **** about their customers.
They went through every single thing they could trying to blame me for
the problems I had.
1. They blamed it on something with the install. Then I told them a dealer did it.
2. They blamed my driving. Then I told them I had driven like a baby and was not even finished with the break in period.
3. They blamed my driving again and told me to be HARDER on the clutch.
4. They said I must have a bad slave cylinder until I told them I had it replaced along with the clutch.
5. They finally said the materials they use can cause noise with the clutch and that it was a racing clutch and was not that good for the road.
This was after I called them even before ordering the clutch and they recommended the clutch saying it was excellent for the road and daily driving.
Bottom line is they tried EVERYTHING they could to get out of it being their fault. In the end I STILL had to eat all the cost.
They did not refund my money, and did not replace the clutch or flywheel.
I will never use or recommend SPEC to ANYONE. Not even my worst enemy.
If you get a good working SPEC with no problems on these cars
I'd say you are one of the lucky ones.
As far as their customer service is concerned.
In my opinion they give a **** about their customers.
They went through every single thing they could trying to blame me for
the problems I had.
1. They blamed it on something with the install. Then I told them a dealer did it.
2. They blamed my driving. Then I told them I had driven like a baby and was not even finished with the break in period.
3. They blamed my driving again and told me to be HARDER on the clutch.
4. They said I must have a bad slave cylinder until I told them I had it replaced along with the clutch.
5. They finally said the materials they use can cause noise with the clutch and that it was a racing clutch and was not that good for the road.
This was after I called them even before ordering the clutch and they recommended the clutch saying it was excellent for the road and daily driving.
Bottom line is they tried EVERYTHING they could to get out of it being their fault. In the end I STILL had to eat all the cost.
They did not refund my money, and did not replace the clutch or flywheel.
I will never use or recommend SPEC to ANYONE. Not even my worst enemy.
11/25/10, 05:52 AM
#9
Like I said before I think SPEC is garbage on the S197.
If you get a good working SPEC with no problems on these cars
I'd say you are one of the lucky ones.
As far as their customer service is concerned.
In my opinion they give a **** about their customers.
They went through every single thing they could trying to blame me for
the problems I had.
1. They blamed it on something with the install. Then I told them a dealer did it.
2. They blamed my driving. Then I told them I had driven like a baby and was not even finished with the break in period.
3. They blamed my driving again and told me to be HARDER on the clutch.
4. They said I must have a bad slave cylinder until I told them I had it replaced along with the clutch.
5. They finally said the materials they use can cause noise with the clutch and that it was a racing clutch and was not that good for the road.
This was after I called them even before ordering the clutch and they recommended the clutch saying it was excellent for the road and daily driving.
Bottom line is they tried EVERYTHING they could to get out of it being their fault. In the end I STILL had to eat all the cost.
They did not refund my money, and did not replace the clutch or flywheel.
I will never use or recommend SPEC to ANYONE. Not even my worst enemy.
If you get a good working SPEC with no problems on these cars
I'd say you are one of the lucky ones.
As far as their customer service is concerned.
In my opinion they give a **** about their customers.
They went through every single thing they could trying to blame me for
the problems I had.
1. They blamed it on something with the install. Then I told them a dealer did it.
2. They blamed my driving. Then I told them I had driven like a baby and was not even finished with the break in period.
3. They blamed my driving again and told me to be HARDER on the clutch.
4. They said I must have a bad slave cylinder until I told them I had it replaced along with the clutch.
5. They finally said the materials they use can cause noise with the clutch and that it was a racing clutch and was not that good for the road.
This was after I called them even before ordering the clutch and they recommended the clutch saying it was excellent for the road and daily driving.
Bottom line is they tried EVERYTHING they could to get out of it being their fault. In the end I STILL had to eat all the cost.
They did not refund my money, and did not replace the clutch or flywheel.
I will never use or recommend SPEC to ANYONE. Not even my worst enemy.
It's not clear what the OP is looking for performance wise (is it a daily driver? track car?) but I can tell you that for a 350hp NA vehicle, every aftermarket clutch I've tried has a problem for frequent drag racing. I gave up and went back to stock clutches and flywheels, which often cost me $100 used for low mileage units. I put one in last spring and it just barely lasted until my last race of the season.
I'm going to toss $$$ at a McLeod twin disk unit and matching steel flywheel. It has more clamping potential than my power level requires, but it should last a couple of seasons.
Regarding the Exedy, I've heard great things as a street clutch, but like many other brands just don't hold up to heavy use at the drag strip. Not a personal experience, but the racing club is pretty tight knit and news travels fast. Just some observations and opinions...
12/6/10, 05:16 PM
#12
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I have to agree with Blacksmoke and jwgroovin.
At 80k miles my stock clutch started to chatter, I drive the hard enough figured it was time to replace. Order the SPEC stage 1 disk and PP, and a steel flywheel, got a new slave/throwout assembly and a new pilot bearing. Had the dealer do the install, I've had the same tech since I bought the car and they have always done right by me (Bill Pierre Ford in Lakecity WA) 3 days after I get the car back I have what appears to be a slave/throwout failure, after tear down it looks like the slave over extended. After some measuring it turns out that the installed height of the new assembly was 330 thousands to short. I then spent the next 4 days on the phone with SPEC, with them blaming everything but their product, I finally got someone to email me the installed height specs so we could compare them to stock. With the techs info they finally admitted it "might" be an issue with the PP and offered to replace just the PP, never mind the fact that the disk was soaked in hydraulic fluid. After 2 more days of calls and yelling I got them to replace the PP and disk, however they refused to cover the replacement slave/throwout or any labor. My service manager at the dealership managed to get the slave/throwout replaced as defective and they ate half the labor costs for me.
The new clutch has been fine for 10k miles now, but I could never in good faith recommend SPEC to anyone.
At 80k miles my stock clutch started to chatter, I drive the hard enough figured it was time to replace. Order the SPEC stage 1 disk and PP, and a steel flywheel, got a new slave/throwout assembly and a new pilot bearing. Had the dealer do the install, I've had the same tech since I bought the car and they have always done right by me (Bill Pierre Ford in Lakecity WA) 3 days after I get the car back I have what appears to be a slave/throwout failure, after tear down it looks like the slave over extended. After some measuring it turns out that the installed height of the new assembly was 330 thousands to short. I then spent the next 4 days on the phone with SPEC, with them blaming everything but their product, I finally got someone to email me the installed height specs so we could compare them to stock. With the techs info they finally admitted it "might" be an issue with the PP and offered to replace just the PP, never mind the fact that the disk was soaked in hydraulic fluid. After 2 more days of calls and yelling I got them to replace the PP and disk, however they refused to cover the replacement slave/throwout or any labor. My service manager at the dealership managed to get the slave/throwout replaced as defective and they ate half the labor costs for me.
The new clutch has been fine for 10k miles now, but I could never in good faith recommend SPEC to anyone.
1/30/11, 02:27 PM
#13
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Can anyone verify whether we have a 6 bolt or an 8 bolt crankshaft in an 06 GT, clutch is fried, planning on ordering a EXEDY lightweight steel flywheel, not sure of bolt pattern though.
1/30/11, 02:36 PM
#14
6 bolt, from the manual:
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
prevent damage to the pressure plate.
NOTE:
NOTE:
If the pressure plate is to be reused,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
1/30/11, 02:41 PM
#15
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6 bolt, from the manual:
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
prevent damage to the pressure plate.
NOTE:
NOTE:
If the pressure plate is to be reused,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
1/30/11, 02:49 PM
#16
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Curious: if one changes to an aluminum flywheel, do you change out the harmonic balancer too?
I remember they used a different balancer on Bullitt over the GT when they upped the redline to 6500 so I'm wondering if it is a factor if you use a different flywheel.
I remember they used a different balancer on Bullitt over the GT when they upped the redline to 6500 so I'm wondering if it is a factor if you use a different flywheel.
1/30/11, 03:00 PM
#17
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Shouldn't have too, the engine balance is not changing. The flywheel even though its lighter, should be balanced to match the original flywheel.
1/31/11, 01:38 AM
#18
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6 bolt, from the manual:
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
2. CAUTION: Loosen the bolts evenly to Installation
prevent damage to the pressure plate.
NOTE:
NOTE:
If the pressure plate is to be reused,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
1. NOTE: Clean the clutch pressure plate and
index-mark the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Remove the 6 pressure plate bolts,
2/1/11, 09:27 AM
#20
I'm going to go against the grain here I guess.
You say you're going to go FI in 18 months.
How much power are you looking to make?
Are you going to race your car or do you want to get the blower to just have some fun around town?
If you're going to put down crazy power and race then look to an aftermarket setup.
If you're going to go with a normal power level (400 rwhp or around that) and you're not planning to race your car then just keep your stock clutch.
Flywheel resurface should be nowhere near 100 bucks but even at that you're saving a hell of a lot of money doing that and keeping your stocker.
You say you're going to go FI in 18 months.
How much power are you looking to make?
Are you going to race your car or do you want to get the blower to just have some fun around town?
If you're going to put down crazy power and race then look to an aftermarket setup.
If you're going to go with a normal power level (400 rwhp or around that) and you're not planning to race your car then just keep your stock clutch.
Flywheel resurface should be nowhere near 100 bucks but even at that you're saving a hell of a lot of money doing that and keeping your stocker.