apial

Hey guys,

have my Mustang since 1 year now and still love driving it every day. Only thing I was missing sometimes was the backup camera, especially since I already had the big navi screen right on my view

So I was searching long time to see if someone did this already and I heard about some Shelby guys get the stock camera installed and programmed by the dealer.
I didn't liked that for the following reasons:
- Already had a rear spoiler
- The camera spoiler is bigger and looks strange to me
- it was around 400$
- I was doing this for living in Germany (install such and other stuff in Audi/VW) so I was very interested how it may work with Ford.

Lets start:

The coding/programming:
- Was the hardest part of it. I was able to get access to a VCM/IDS system but had no online subscription. But after researching for hours and played with the program I realized the "As-build" data function was my only option
- Luckily, Ford offers the "As-build" data for free on their service webpage ---> http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...=spubs_as_call
- After some research I found a 2014 Mustang, same options as mine + the backup camera. I downloaded both "as-build" data and compared them Code by Code and found just 1 octet which was different than mine
- I changed this bit, restarted the Navi and put reverse in - The result: - So great, the navi changes to the camera screen, now I "just" needed to figure out the cabling

The Camera + wiring
- I was looking for a "good" camera so no 10 $ Ebay cam which get wet inside after the next rain. I found a nice one on Amazon for 45$ with integrated metal license plate"
- After looking into the wiring diagrams it was looking pretty easy - Video input + and - at the front right connector and a shielded cable, so not a big deal
- Power comes from the back-light and ground is directly there


Pictures incl. some important details about the installation!



The white connector is the one which has already the wires running to the FDIM






These 2 cables (PIN 21 and 22) you need to cut and connect to the camera in the back





Test the camera for picture quality before start working on the car!




Remove the side panel and seat to have room for the cables (very easy, tooks 10 minutes)




I decided to cut the cable and solder it again in the car because so I just needed to drill a very small hole into the bezel




Fits perfect





Into the car




Used the seal of the old cable so its 100% waterproof




Soldered everything in the car so no contact problems later ....





Using the original cable tree to securely bring the video cable to the front. I used a SHIELDED cable, its not 100% necessary but it was just a few bucks more




More in the seconds post

apial

Cut cable going to the FDIM + the new cable coming from the camera in the back - they have to be soldered




Soldered and fixed




The camera




The camera - agian




You can adjust the angle





I hope this HOWTO will help someone to save some time, in total it took me 10 hours including the programming research.
If you have any remaining questions - just ask

And last but not least - If you think my English is funny, try to speak German

jim010

Great write up and pics. Something I don't really do well.

I also did this, but used the OEM camera and spoiler.

Siber Express

I Did it with the Camera Spoiler and Lock Pick since I could not find a car with all the options as mine.
I also had to switch the positive and negative video leads because of the Lock Pick to make the camera work correctly.
Excellent write up

dmhines

Nice job!! Great solution for Rear Camera owners who would rather have a different spoiler!

apial

Yes I agree, it was hard for me to, to find the right car. But after comparing the data and checked different car types, I know that the byte you have to change is only for the backup camera and it looks like it is the same for all Coupes (Convertible is different). So it doesn't really matter anymore to find the "right" car, just take your As build data, change the one octet and it should work fine.

laserred38

Haha this is what I was thinking! I ordered the backup can with my 2014 GT, but I plan on doing a GT500 spoiler and relocating the factory camera. I've installed backup cams with those license plate mounts in a previous life, so thanks for this write up! I'd suggest a set of black Allen or Torx head screws as a little added bit of security. Plus the black screws will blend in better.

kingofsting

Great write-up! I used the same license frame/backup camera in my 13GT, connected to an X920BT

Dineau

I went with the lockpick for a couple of reasons... First you can bypass the navigation security and option and my wife can program an address while driving, also it gives you the possibility to have a second camera for front view, you can also activate the rear view camera manually. So with all these options plus the fact that it's an easy plug and play installation the lockpick was a better choice for me.

laserred38

Yep, I plan on a lock pick too!

apial

You're right, I like the idea.
I went to Autozone and found a nice&secure mounting system but it looks like you have to grab the back of the bumber to install them (its a shrew/nut system). Or I didn't understand the system correct (I don't bought them, just walked by)

c_rizzle

ok ive tried asking my local dealership to do this and they have no idea wtf im talking about. can you please explain the programming part. id even pay you if you could assist me in doing this with my 2014 gt premium covertible with nav. its not the money, as id pay for the lock pick. but id rather it 100% factory like. ive already installed the spoiler and run wires the passenger connector.

tom281

Nice write up. I used a similar license plate camera on my 06 and it worked great for years.

I may do something similar but with the rear view mirror monitor since my Roush has neither backup sensors nor rear camera. Bummer lol...

laserred38

I'm getting one of these for my front bumper and a lock pick, for parking and so I can have my rear cam on while driving

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Q6...alopnikamzn-20

jim010

4dtech programs the navs for you. Contact Brad at 4dtech.

apial

Hi Chris,

if you need help, I'm happy to assist. I left you a PM.

Sascha

c_rizzle

I was hoping to figure out how to program the nav unit myself, or at least tell my local Ford dealership how to, so I wouldn't have to take everything apart, but I ended up getting 4dtech to program it for me.

And thanks for the directions above. I used your guide above to wire the OEM back-up camera spoiler (bought off ebay) to the passenger footwell C210 connector. Your pictures and guide were priceless.

Then I sent the Nav "brick" in to 4dtech.com to get the back up cam enabled on it. They had it back to me with in a week (total round trip time).

Got it back, installed it and everything worked right away.

Back up camera spoiler off ebay = $160 (cheap b/c it had scratches on it)
repaint spoiler = $175
WPT-1130 pigtail = $30
4dtech programming = $140 ($125 + $15 shipping)
installed myself = $0
---------------------
TOTAL = $505

Not cheap, but not bad for what I got. I bigger better spoiler AND added functionality of the back up camera integrated in my OEM Nav unit.

This is also around the price that audio places were quoting just to add a license plate back up camera. Guessing it was approx: $120 camera, $280 lockpick + $100 install = $500

FYI, Ford Part # for the OEM back up camera spoiler (unpainted) = AR3Z-6344210-BA - $350+- new

Basically, if you wanted a dealer to do this it would require:
AR3Z-6344210-BA = $350
matching paint = $200
WPT-1130 pigtail = $30
installation = $170+ ?
TOTAL = $750+

Then they need to program NAV with build as data / VIN # from a vehicle with all the same options as yours PLUS the back up camera.
As if they were installing a new Nav unit into your vehicle, b/c your Nav unit was broken.

CiniZter

it looks better to see it in nav screen, i have this option but comes in small screen inside the mirror.

stonecoldtx

Hi, Apial--can you post the steps you took to change the octet? I am getting ready to install a rearview camera spoiler, and would like to just hook it up and go . . .

Need to know what app you used to change the octet, what the octet was, etc., etc. . . . if you could post that, or PM me with the info, I'd greatly appreciate it!

stonecoldtx

I'm about to do this on my 2014 Mustang GT Coupe, but I am going with a new spoiler; I found one from a dealer listed on E-Bay for $282 shipped, so saved $70 there, and I'm going to paint it myself, using a kit from here (I've used them before):

http://www.paintworldinc.com/kits.aspx?cn=172099

I got the Professional Kit, which was about $80 shipped.

So, price so far is:

NEW Spoiler: $282 shipped
Paint to match car: $80 shipped
AU2Z-14S411-BNA Pigtail from Tousley Ford (White Bear Lake): $32.95 shipped

Now, after the pigtail arrives and I get everything installed, all I need to do is figure out the programming to change the one bit so that the rearview camera will work!

So, assuming I can purchase one of the cheap VCS/IDS devices off of E-Bay and connect in, that's around another $215 (and I'll still have the VCS/IDS device to use for other things), so anticipated total spent:

Around $608

Apial can you PM me? I need some info regarding the programming portion, and could use your help with this . . .