Okay, before you start bashing me, let me just say that this is written for the '1st Timers' who haven't attempted an oil change, but were thinking about doing it themselves if they only had some simple steps to follow.

Here we go!

I went with the fully synthetic Mobil 1 5W-20 and the Mobil 1 (M1-210) High Efficiency oil filter. A total of 6 US Quarts was used.

Note: Of course, you can substitute in any high quality oil and filter you like, the procedure is the same.




First thing was to warm up the engine a bit so the oil can flow easier, but not too hot. I drove it up on the Rhino Ramps and let it idle for a few minutes.



Standing in front of the engine, looking down, you can see the factory oil filter right of center (the all white one).



From underneath the car, locate the oil pan (black one), just forward of the transmission bell housing.



Use a 16mm socket to break loose the drain plug and carefully unscrew the nut by hand. Caution! The oil may be a little warm so be careful. Don't forget to position your drain pan under the plug, and please, make sure it's big enough to hold 6 quarts.











While the oil is draining out (I let it go for few minutes), remove the oil filler cap and clean up the plug.





Now, re-install the drain plug (careful not to cross-thread it) and tighten it using the socket and ratchet. Torque is 26Nm, 19lb-ft. I just tightened it to what I felt was tight, but not crazy tight.

Now here came the fun part.. Not!

Let me first say that the Factory put this filter on very tight! So tight, that there was no way in removing it without causing some damage to its housing.

Here's a shot of the filter from underneath the car.



I tried everything to get that sucker loose. My Hulk rubber gloves failed, rubber strap wrench failed, an even a filter socket failed! I had no choice, but to employ the Jaws of Life! This did the job, but not without putting some major dents in the filter. But, who cares as it was getting tossed.





Once the filter is loose, carefully (and slowly) spin it off and let the excess oil drain into your pan. Oil will drip over other parts, can't help that. Once the filter is removed, make sure the rubber seal off the OEM filter isn't still stuck to the engine block. Get a clean rag and wipe the mating surface and any spills.

New!
TIP: On my 2nd oil change, I used the 1-Gallon ziplock bag trick and it worked out very well. All you need to do is open the ziplock around the filter when loose, and carefully spin it off through the bag. The filter and excess oil will all fall into the bag leaving no mess!



New!



Open up one of your new quarts of oil and rub a light coat over the rubber seal/gasket on the new filter. I also rub some oil into the threaded hole to for good measure, although probably not necessary.



TIP: Per Mustang Buster's suggestion, the oil pressure will come up faster by not having to fill the filter from the oil pan. You can easily fill it (the new oil filter) about 3/4 the way up without having it spill out when installing it.

New!



Install your new oil filter and be careful not to cross-thread it while screwing it on. Once the filter gasket made contact with the block, I gave it an additional ¾ to a full turn BY HAND. Do not over-tighten the filter.



A couple pictures from above, looking down.






Checklist before filling the engine with new oil... Drain plug in and tight? New oil filter on and tight? Good! Now, start filling. Don't pour in the quarts like a maniac, it may spill over your funnel (bad thing).





Once you're done filling, replace your oil filler cap and go do a quick courtesy check for any leaks. Good? Go for engine start. Now don't go revving the engine as soon as it starts, there's plenty of time for that later. Also, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge (if equipped) and make sure it shows pressure within a few seconds of starting the engine.

What I usually do now, is get back under the car and re-check for leaks.

Once all looks good, go ahead and back the car off the ramps (or whatever means you lifted it) and shut the engine off. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes and check the oil dipstick level. It should read at the upper end of the top hole.

Being the oil is fresh and new, seeing it on the dipstick can be a little difficult.





Job is complete!


Just for fun, here's a pic of what I used.

 

Nice write-up and excellent pictures!

 

Bill, very nice writeup and pics. Thanks! The only other thing is what do you guys do with the old oil since you can't just dump it in your garbage can? Don't the auto parts stores accept it if you buy your oil change supplies from them and as long as you bring it to them in a sealed container?

 

Nice write up, but something you may want to start doing, and add to your write up, is to fill the new oil filter with oil before you install it. This is a little easier on the engine, and the oil pressure will come up faster by not having to fill the filter from the oil pan. You can easily fill it about 3/4 the way up without having it spill out when you install it.

 

Generally, if you sell oil you also have to reclaim it. Buying oil is not a prerequisite. Any autoparts will accept it. Just walk up to the counter and tell them you need to dispose of some oil. Some places only accept a minimum of 5 gallons so you might want to call ahead. Typically, you'll just pull around to the back or side of the parts store and empty your container into their 55 gallon drum.

 

+1

Another suggestion (found on this site) is to cover those areas where oil will splash with heavy-duty aluminum foil, makes clean up so much easier.

I personally DISAGREE with the suggestion, also found on this site, to build oil pressure by putting the pedal to the floor when starting the engine. The idea is the fuel injectors will be killed by flooring the pedal, the engine will crank, pressure will build, and the car won't start. DON'T COUNT ON IT!

 

Another excellent write up!

 

Excellent write-up and pictures. The underside of your ride sure is clean!

To get the filter off, I use a filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" drive socket. Use a 3" extension on your ratchet, hook up the filter wrench, and it will get those filters off easily.

I personally use disposable latex gloves, like doctors and dentists wear. Obviously not necessary, and possibly considered wimpy by many, but it makes cleanup a lot easier and the gloves are cheap, so why not?

I also have the rhino ramps, but cannot drive up on them without them sliding forward. I have a regular concrete garage floor that's smooth. After a couple tries with the ramps, I went back to using my floor jack and a pair of jack stands. I'd rather use the ramps if I could get them to stay put, however.

 

I 've changed my own oil numerous times on numerous vehicles, however, have yet to do it on my new Stang. Thanks for the demostrationTacoBill. You have perfected the oil change. As usual, great write-up!

Good comment on filling the oil filter up 3/4. A technique I use as well...

P.S. TacoBill, Why did you decide to go with the Mobil filter instead of the FRPP filter? Thanks

 

Great write up. Only suggestion I would make, would be to NOT use a socket on the drain plug. As an owner of an Oil Change shop, we would hav people come in all the time after doing their own oil change, and stripping the threads out of the aluminum pan, by over torquing the plug. We would send em away, and they'd have a sheepish look, as if they got their hand caught in the cookie jar. They'd hope we wouldn't notice, then want us to replace their oil pan. NOT! Be careful here, just snug it up. 19 ft/ibs of torque isn't very much.

 

I'll answer in Bill's absence. Auto Zone ran a special on 5 quarts of Mobil 1 oil and a Mobil 1 oil filter for $29.95. I got the deal too, and just had to buy 1 more quart of oil. Compared to the last time I bought Mobil 1 oil and a Motorcraft filter from Wal-Mart, this deal was like buying 6 quarts of Mobil 1 oil and getting the Mobil 1 filter for free.


How do you torque it without a socket? You are right, 19 lb-ft isn't much. I use a small torque wrench and socket and click it one time at 19 lb-ft... no problems or leaks!

You have to drive it to get it dirty!

 

Your the man Bill

 

Assuming you don't have a chin spoiler on the car, how likely is it that you can slide underneath to get to the filter and oil pan without raising the front of the car?

 

Excellent!!!

 

Unless you are Mr. Fantastic, not a chance.

 

Good suggestion, I'll add it to post #1.



Just like 89Trooper said, it was on sale!

I have the FRPP filter that I was planning on using, but decided to go with the Mobil 1. I'm sure the FRPP one is just as good, it was just a personal preference.



Not a chance... Unless you drive half the car up the side of a curb and onto the sidewalk, then maybe.

 

Thanks.........Great Information

 

Well Trooper 89, I'd say a torque wrench isn't really necessary either, unless you are unable to just snug it up with an open end wrench.

 

I'm pretty picky (ask Bill!)... I have to torque everything. Makes me feel better it's tightened to specs.

I guess the people that come into your shop think tighter is better, when it's the gasket (or o-ring) that seals, not how tight the bolt is.

 

I always prefill mine too- AND ALWAYS look inside at the threads first- I've found a couple over the years with metal chips from tapping hanging in the threads- usually run my finger around inside carefully to make sure.
the threads look 'form tapped' instead of cut, but hey- its a production piece...a chipped tool and stuff happens.
a cousin brought over a K/N filter for me to 'help install' in his firebird(some folks never even look under their hoods...) and noticed a staple in the filter...never hurts to look things over- even good brands- never know if someone might have had it out of the box/returned it/made by a disgruntled employee/whatever...

nice about changing in the mustang- very little mess and prefilling is easy... now the wifes old windstar? the foil helps, but its a mess, filter above the cradle and horizontal mounted so no prefilling...it rattles like crazy for a couple seconds at startup...hate that sound(bet the motor dont appreciate it either!)