Steeda Clutch Assist Spring Install?
3/25/17, 07:02 PM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Steeda Clutch Assist Spring Install?
I was replacing my clutch assist spring with the Steeda replacement and broke the upper spring perch getting the stock spring out. I guess I had my screw driver in the wrong place when I prayed on it. The spring came out, but the guide rod that runs down the middle from the upper perch snapped off. I know you can run without an assist spring, but does anyone know if the guide rod is really needed? I am sure it is a dealer only item and I can't get to a dealer for a few days.
3/25/17, 08:01 PM
#2
EF1,
We have the replacement perch here:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7027.html
It is cheaper than the assembly you can get through the dealer network.
Best Regards,
TJ
We have the replacement perch here:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7027.html
It is cheaper than the assembly you can get through the dealer network.
Best Regards,
TJ
3/25/17, 08:31 PM
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
EF1,
We have the replacement perch here:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7027.html
It is cheaper than the assembly you can get through the dealer network.
Best Regards,
TJ
We have the replacement perch here:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7027.html
It is cheaper than the assembly you can get through the dealer network.
Best Regards,
TJ
3/26/17, 03:04 PM
#6
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Yeah some of us are still modding the S197. Thank you for checking. I will see what the dealer says this week as well, since I can't seem to find a replacement through my internet search.
3/26/17, 03:08 PM
#7
GT Member
Welcome to the club, the same thing happened to me. I used the recommended procedure using a needle nosed vice grips and I broke the centering pin on the plastic upper mount. You have some options. You could try running without any spring. Some people have done it and don't seem to have any problems. You can go to your local Ford dealer, but when I did that I was told that the only way they can get the piece you need is to purchase the entire pedal assembly. Even with the friendly mechanic's discount price it's a $130.00. Ouch!. Try a salvage yard. I don't know if they use the same part for all 197's from '05-'14 or just from '11-'14. If it's for all of them finding one shouldn't be too hard. Try the parts section on the various Mustang web sites. You may be able to repair the broken part. I got lucky here, the Gorilla version of crazy glue is good stuff. If that dosen't work, you could drill the pin out of the top and install a 5/16 clevis pin from a hardware store. You will have to be a little creative in securing the pin, but it can be done. The good news is that once installed the pin isn't subject to a lot of bending forces so even a glued pin will hold, or at least mine has for several thousand miles. For anyone considering this modification, the spring is a noticeable improvement in feel. It's not night and day, but you can feel the difference. There is also a better method for installation than shown in the instruction sheet. Keep in mind that unless you remove the driver's seat you will be in a really awkward position trying to do this. I put the seat in the rear most position and cut a wooden dowel just long enough to keep the clutch pedal depressed when the other end is wedged against the front of the seat bottom. Alternately you can have an assistant hold the pedal down. Next take the new spring and both cups and while holding them in the installed position place them in a vice and compress them fully. Now use wire [ the proverbial baling wire is perfect ] and tie it around the spring assembly. Now it will be easy to place the bottom cup on the pedal pin and rotate it up into position so the upper cup will engage the upper pedal pin. Now cut or untie the baling wire and the spring will snap into position. It may sound complicated, but it really isn't and it's a lot easier than trying to compress the new spring and cups by hand while standing on your head and twisted like a pretzel under the dash.
3/26/17, 06:51 PM
#8
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions. I put the new spring in with the broken guide rod. It appears to be working fine so far, but I have only taken it for a short drive. It sounds like a salvage yard is my best bet.
3/29/17, 07:38 PM
#9
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
I checked with a local Ford dealer and they do not offer individual components of the clutch pedal assembley, just the complete unit which is $150-$250 range depending on which trim level you want. Also called a couple of local junk yards and no one has any 2011-2014 manual transmission Mustang's in their yard. Running without the guide rod doesn't appear to affect the drive so far. I may pull the upper mount out and epoxy the guide rod back on until I can find a donor in one of the junk yards.
3/30/17, 08:09 AM
#11
GT Member
Thanks TJ, I am sure you must have seen my response [ post # 7, 3/26/'17 ] to EF1 since it appears that you monitor this site regularly. A reasonably priced replacement upper cup would be nice to have. There has to be a better way to remove the factory spring than is shown in the instruction sheet. I am not inexperienced at turning wrenches and I am definitely not the only one to break the upper cup in removing the factory spring as others have posted about it on other forums as well. The method I described for installing the Steeda spring [ or any other for that matter ] works quite well and is a lot easier than trying to compress it by hand.
3/30/17, 07:04 PM
#12
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
3/30/17, 07:08 PM
#13
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Welcome to the club, the same thing happened to me. I used the recommended procedure using a needle nosed vice grips and I broke the centering pin on the plastic upper mount. You have some options. You could try running without any spring. Some people have done it and don't seem to have any problems. You can go to your local Ford dealer, but when I did that I was told that the only way they can get the piece you need is to purchase the entire pedal assembly. Even with the friendly mechanic's discount price it's a $130.00. Ouch!. Try a salvage yard. I don't know if they use the same part for all 197's from '05-'14 or just from '11-'14. If it's for all of them finding one shouldn't be too hard. Try the parts section on the various Mustang web sites. You may be able to repair the broken part. I got lucky here, the Gorilla version of crazy glue is good stuff. If that dosen't work, you could drill the pin out of the top and install a 5/16 clevis pin from a hardware store. You will have to be a little creative in securing the pin, but it can be done. The good news is that once installed the pin isn't subject to a lot of bending forces so even a glued pin will hold, or at least mine has for several thousand miles. For anyone considering this modification, the spring is a noticeable improvement in feel. It's not night and day, but you can feel the difference. There is also a better method for installation than shown in the instruction sheet. Keep in mind that unless you remove the driver's seat you will be in a really awkward position trying to do this. I put the seat in the rear most position and cut a wooden dowel just long enough to keep the clutch pedal depressed when the other end is wedged against the front of the seat bottom. Alternately you can have an assistant hold the pedal down. Next take the new spring and both cups and while holding them in the installed position place them in a vice and compress them fully. Now use wire [ the proverbial baling wire is perfect ] and tie it around the spring assembly. Now it will be easy to place the bottom cup on the pedal pin and rotate it up into position so the upper cup will engage the upper pedal pin. Now cut or untie the baling wire and the spring will snap into position. It may sound complicated, but it really isn't and it's a lot easier than trying to compress the new spring and cups by hand while standing on your head and twisted like a pretzel under the dash.
4/1/17, 03:53 PM
#14
Mach 1 Member
i used the vise grip method on the center springs and with the pedal depressed it took 10 seconds for the mod! Grip the top and pull down and out with your fore and middle finger and slide off,done!
4/1/17, 05:11 PM
#15
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I followed the Steeda instructions and pried the top down with a screw driver. I wasn't holding the top tight enough (since I had a screw driver in one hand) and it flew out resulting in the guide rod snapping off flush with the upper perch. I guess I shouldn't have followed the instructions. The only good so far is it does't appear as if the guide rod really matters. I put the new spring in with the broken guide rod and so far it is working fine.
4/2/17, 02:12 PM
#16
Mach 1 Member
no screw driver is needed, no tools are needed for the mod,all you need is someone to depress the clutch while you just pull it off the way i described, and the difference is sweet,firmer but more precise clutch pedal and no more high rpm problem!
4/20/17, 05:17 PM
#17
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When I replaced my clutch pedal spring I broke the center support in my upper perch too. I tried using it but I noticed the spring would bow out with the pedal released. I had my local dealer order me the pedal assembly because like previously said they don't just sell the perch. The pedal assembly for my base 2014 GT is DR3Z-2455-K. It was something like $120 dollars with a $100 core charge. It comes with a new clutch slave cylinder so I removed that too before returning the core. If I remember correctly that slave cylinder is a $80 part by itself.
4/20/17, 07:27 PM
#18
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
When I replaced my clutch pedal spring I broke the center support in my upper perch too. I tried using it but I noticed the spring would bow out with the pedal released. I had my local dealer order me the pedal assembly because like previously said they don't just sell the perch. The pedal assembly for my base 2014 GT is DR3Z-2455-K. It was something like $120 dollars with a $100 core charge. It comes with a new clutch slave cylinder so I removed that too before returning the core. If I remember correctly that slave cylinder is a $80 part by itself.
4/21/17, 04:38 PM
#20
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter