Steeda Shifter mount bracket and transmission mount bushing, drag strip results
3/18/17, 10:03 PM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Steeda Shifter mount bracket and transmission mount bushing, drag strip results
Quick write up on Steeda Transmission mount bushing and Shifter bracket!
I recently installed the Steeda transmission mount bushing.
Very easy to install, I installed it as it comes I did not modify it or take any material out of it like some people do.
At the same time I installed the Steeda Shifter bushing (black bushing) and aluminum mount.
It did add some NVH inside the vehicle, I can feel a small vibration in the shifter handle and in the seat belt mount by the center console.
(but not enough to bother me I actually like it because I get some feed back from the car, but I also like old muscle cars and that feel)
Results: I used to get locked out of 3rd gear at WOT runs at max RPM,
Now, no more problems. Shifts firmer, more direct and no missed shifts.
I think it is a great low cost upgrade for the shifters in these cars.
I recently installed the Steeda transmission mount bushing.
Very easy to install, I installed it as it comes I did not modify it or take any material out of it like some people do.
At the same time I installed the Steeda Shifter bushing (black bushing) and aluminum mount.
It did add some NVH inside the vehicle, I can feel a small vibration in the shifter handle and in the seat belt mount by the center console.
(but not enough to bother me I actually like it because I get some feed back from the car, but I also like old muscle cars and that feel)
Results: I used to get locked out of 3rd gear at WOT runs at max RPM,
Now, no more problems. Shifts firmer, more direct and no missed shifts.
I think it is a great low cost upgrade for the shifters in these cars.
3/20/17, 12:41 PM
#2
Mach 1 Member
remove the clutch spring and the high rpm lockout goes away!!!The clutch also feels much better and engages the same point everytime, i did an SR braided clutch line and a trans mount insert bushing with a barton 2 post and redline trans fluid and still got high rpm lockout (everything i did improved dramatically especially the 2 post and line) not until i removed the clutch helper spring which took 30 seconds to do after the pedal is held down by a helpers foot did i finally get rid of the lock out and improved on everything else big time( clutch feel etc.) i have the stock 401A shifter and after all those mods finally appreciated the MT82 as real good smooth tranny that can take it!! If you have to do only one thing remove the spring from the clutch,its free and cures sooo many ills! You'll never even think of putting it back on!
Last edited by Ponywars; 3/20/17 at 12:42 PM.
3/20/17, 01:16 PM
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
In my experience, just the sifter mount and trans mount took care of the problem.
The problem I was having is rotational twist that was causing lockout.
Removing that spring will do nothing to help with the trans rotating and binding.
I think we must have had two different issues.
Thanks for the insight, might help someone else down the line!
The problem I was having is rotational twist that was causing lockout.
Removing that spring will do nothing to help with the trans rotating and binding.
I think we must have had two different issues.
Thanks for the insight, might help someone else down the line!
3/20/17, 01:18 PM
#4
Cobra Member
I understand removing the spring will help feel. But please explain how removing the spring will eliminate lock out. Lock out is caused by things not lining up. Such as trans gears or clutch engagement or shifter alinement. Removing a spring on the pedal can not fix lock out. It may feel better, but it can not change the way the trans and clutch work spinning at 7000rpm. It has been proven that the cure for lockout is MGW shifter and new clutch. Not a factory clutch. The main problem is the clutch.
I have tried all the fixes from clutch spring to shifter swaps to shifter bushings. What did help the most was the BF shifter bracket. however the lock out was not 100% gone. 75% better than factory and worth every penny.
Food for thought. Thousands had complained about lockout and have destroyed transmissions too. If removing the spring was the fix, then Ford would of done this to every mustang that came in for service about lockout. Like you say it would be free to Ford and many many happy owners.
All I'm trying to say is that: if you want to get rid of the lock out. Do the clutch with an after market one that fits your driving style. If you have some extra cash while the trans is out...install the MGW shifter.
Till this day I still say this is where Ford fell short and would not accept the fix to thousands of mustang owners. However they had no problem installing a new or rebuilt trans if your car was still under warranty. Also anyone who received a new clutch from ford was given a factory clutch. which did nothing. The best thing to do is to provide your dealer with an aftermarket clutch at your cost for them to install if your covered under warranty. Labor is the killer.
Hope this helps.
I have tried all the fixes from clutch spring to shifter swaps to shifter bushings. What did help the most was the BF shifter bracket. however the lock out was not 100% gone. 75% better than factory and worth every penny.
Food for thought. Thousands had complained about lockout and have destroyed transmissions too. If removing the spring was the fix, then Ford would of done this to every mustang that came in for service about lockout. Like you say it would be free to Ford and many many happy owners.
All I'm trying to say is that: if you want to get rid of the lock out. Do the clutch with an after market one that fits your driving style. If you have some extra cash while the trans is out...install the MGW shifter.
Till this day I still say this is where Ford fell short and would not accept the fix to thousands of mustang owners. However they had no problem installing a new or rebuilt trans if your car was still under warranty. Also anyone who received a new clutch from ford was given a factory clutch. which did nothing. The best thing to do is to provide your dealer with an aftermarket clutch at your cost for them to install if your covered under warranty. Labor is the killer.
Hope this helps.
3/20/17, 03:53 PM
#5
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
I shift my car at 7,100 rpm, and have no issues with the clutch at this time.
The only issues I had were getting locked out of 3rd gear at 7,000+ RPM
shifts. So for me the shifter bracket and bushing solved the problem.
And yes I do agree, I have no idea how a clutch pedal spring could affect shifter
lock out at high RPM.
The only issues I had were getting locked out of 3rd gear at 7,000+ RPM
shifts. So for me the shifter bracket and bushing solved the problem.
And yes I do agree, I have no idea how a clutch pedal spring could affect shifter
lock out at high RPM.
3/21/17, 02:16 PM
#6
Quick write up on Steeda Transmission mount bushing and Shifter bracket!
I recently installed the Steeda transmission mount bushing.
Very easy to install, I installed it as it comes I did not modify it or take any material out of it like some people do.
At the same time I installed the Steeda Shifter bushing (black bushing) and aluminum mount.
It did add some NVH inside the vehicle, I can feel a small vibration in the shifter handle and in the seat belt mount by the center console.
(but not enough to bother me I actually like it because I get some feed back from the car, but I also like old muscle cars and that feel)
Results: I used to get locked out of 3rd gear at WOT runs at max RPM,
Now, no more problems. Shifts firmer, more direct and no missed shifts.
I think it is a great low cost upgrade for the shifters in these cars.
I recently installed the Steeda transmission mount bushing.
Very easy to install, I installed it as it comes I did not modify it or take any material out of it like some people do.
At the same time I installed the Steeda Shifter bushing (black bushing) and aluminum mount.
It did add some NVH inside the vehicle, I can feel a small vibration in the shifter handle and in the seat belt mount by the center console.
(but not enough to bother me I actually like it because I get some feed back from the car, but I also like old muscle cars and that feel)
Results: I used to get locked out of 3rd gear at WOT runs at max RPM,
Now, no more problems. Shifts firmer, more direct and no missed shifts.
I think it is a great low cost upgrade for the shifters in these cars.
We appreciate your feedback & look forward to hearing more!
Best Regards,
TJ
3/21/17, 04:14 PM
#7
Mach 1 Member
it effects it because for some reason at high rpm;s the pedal wants to stay down and not come up for the shift,after the spring removal it went away! i,ve read a **** load of posts about people having the same problem with 11;s and 12;s, maybe on 13 and up they made a change to improve it, but like i said i tried everything except the spring removal and after the removal problem solved! That spring is there to make the pedal pressure easie rto press down but for some reason at high rpm;s it wants to stay there!
3/21/17, 04:45 PM
#8
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
it effects it because for some reason at high rpm;s the pedal wants to stay down and not come up for the shift,after the spring removal it went away! i,ve read a **** load of posts about people having the same problem with 11;s and 12;s, maybe on 13 and up they made a change to improve it, but like i said i tried everything except the spring removal and after the removal problem solved! That spring is there to make the pedal pressure easie rto press down but for some reason at high rpm;s it wants to stay there!
But that is a different problem than getting locked out of 3rd gear at high RPM, due to the movement of the transmission.
What you are describing would effect shifting in any gear!
So in my case where my only problem was 3rd gear lock out at high RPM
that spring is not my issue.
However your info may help someone else!
3/21/17, 06:38 PM
#9
Mach 1 Member
Nice write up. I have the Trans bushing too, and I did the mod on it to help reduce the NVH because the vibration on my hip was driving me crazy, pardon the pun. Other than that I like it, and I agree that it helps a lot on reducing/eliminating movement and lockout.
Question for you on your GT500 rear rotors. Did you go with a particular brand? I recently purchased the rear caliper brackets to use with the GT500 14" rotors, so I'll need to pick some up. Thanks.
Question for you on your GT500 rear rotors. Did you go with a particular brand? I recently purchased the rear caliper brackets to use with the GT500 14" rotors, so I'll need to pick some up. Thanks.
3/22/17, 08:49 AM
#11
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Nice write up. I have the Trans bushing too, and I did the mod on it to help reduce the NVH because the vibration on my hip was driving me crazy, pardon the pun. Other than that I like it, and I agree that it helps a lot on reducing/eliminating movement and lockout.
Question for you on your GT500 rear rotors. Did you go with a particular brand? I recently purchased the rear caliper brackets to use with the GT500 14" rotors, so I'll need to pick some up. Thanks.
Question for you on your GT500 rear rotors. Did you go with a particular brand? I recently purchased the rear caliper brackets to use with the GT500 14" rotors, so I'll need to pick some up. Thanks.
They were from a GT500 that got the super snake conversion.
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