Automatic headlights in my 07
3/26/13, 10:05 PM
#1
Automatic headlights in my 07
I've had automatic headlights in most of my other cars and wanted them in my 07 Stang. I bought the Directed Electronics Automatic Headlight Kit on Amazon for about $30. I played with the kit a bit on my bench and found it had a few options that I didn't want - like headlights coming on if I turn the wipers on, and I didn't want my park lights to flash if I armed the alarm system (via this module). I also wanted an On/Off switch to cut power completely to this kit if I ever had a problem with it. (The kit supplied the toggleswitch but I didn't wire it in as they suggested).
On the car wiring harness on the dash headlight switch module, after determining what each switch position does, I found that if I put a jumper across wires #7 & #9 on the Headlight switch wiring harness, this would activate the headlights and also turn on the parking lights and tail lights which is exactly what it is supposed to do.
So taking the dry contact wires from the kit headlight relay and paralleling it across wires 7&9 were really the only connections I needed to make - other than finding switched power in the passenger foot panel using an "add a circuit" and mounting an on/off switch on the headlamp switch assembly and running a ground. A supplied photocell gets mounted on the dash. If anyone wants to do this either PM me and I'll supply as much info as I can or post here and I'll help as I can.
On the car wiring harness on the dash headlight switch module, after determining what each switch position does, I found that if I put a jumper across wires #7 & #9 on the Headlight switch wiring harness, this would activate the headlights and also turn on the parking lights and tail lights which is exactly what it is supposed to do.
So taking the dry contact wires from the kit headlight relay and paralleling it across wires 7&9 were really the only connections I needed to make - other than finding switched power in the passenger foot panel using an "add a circuit" and mounting an on/off switch on the headlamp switch assembly and running a ground. A supplied photocell gets mounted on the dash. If anyone wants to do this either PM me and I'll supply as much info as I can or post here and I'll help as I can.
Last edited by Briank; 3/26/13 at 10:08 PM.
3/27/13, 03:51 PM
#4
Hi Kevin
OK - more detail.
1) The kit specifies that 2 sources of power are required (Red and Yellow wires), one always on or battery (red I think)and the yellow wire switched with the ignition. I opted to connect both of these together and power both from an "only on when the ignition is on circuit in the passenger footwell fuse box. I used an "Add a circuit" I got from a local autoparts place and is the easiest way to add another circuit without splicing any wires. I fed this via a toggle switch which was supplied with the module. The toggle switch had it's own connection spot on the module but I didn't use that connection. I unsoldered the wires from the toggle sw and soldered it in so I could shut off all power to the kit if required. I figured these 2 sources of power were to allow the parking lights to flash or something if the vehicle security system was armed. My Mustang has that so I didn't need it.
2) I set the kit up on the bench and connected the photocell to the module and used a light bulb above the photocell to see what would activate. Only 1 relay (the headlamp relay) operated - de-energized with lots of light on the photocell and energized when the light was at a low level simulating a dark condition. The supplied relay had wires connected to Normally Open contacts and these 2 wires go to the wires 7 & 9 on the dash light switch as per my picture above. If you look closely you can see the wire numbers on the plastic connector and I added text on the pics.
3) Removing the factory dash switch is relatively easy. Open the side access port on drivers side of the dash (open the door and you'll see it) and push the switch out the front. There are 4 clips which hold the switch assembly in and these seemed relatively loose and fell out on me many times. I used some glue to hold them into the switch so they wouldn't fall out anymore. When you pull the switch out, the wires come out the hole and it is fairly easy (now) to determine which wires to use. There are 2 connectors - one for the headlamp switch and one for the dash dimmer. Obviously use the headlight switch wires. Before you splice the 2 relay wires onto wires 7 & 9 use a jumper to test the headlamp activation. Just jumper/short between wires 7 & 9 and the lights should come on with or with out the key in the ignition. This is the same as turning the headlamp switch to the "Headlights On" position. Once you verify that yours works, then strip some wire insulation off the wires on 7 & 9 and connect/solder the relay wires onto each wire. You might also have one of those cute easy splices too. I stripped about 1/4" of insulation and soldered the wires from the kit relay and taped them up.
4) Next is mounting the photocell. I put mine in the drivers side close to the front of the dash and ran the wires back inside the dash and plugged it into the kit module.
5) I drilled a hole in the dash headlight switch and mounted the toggle switch in it. Now that is is done and works fine, I probably would have mounted the siwtch in a less conspicious place because I'll probably never used it - but I wanted to have an easy way to turn the auto headlights kit off if the module ever screwed up or if for some reason I didn't want them to come on in the dark. Your choice I guess.
6) There is a potentiometer in the headlight kit if you slide a small cover off. It didn't seem to do much (I wondered why) but I just left it in mid position. The headlights come on immediately if the photocell senses darkness and there is about a 10 second delay in seeing light for the headlights to turn off. I guess for a dark or cloudy day with occasional sun, you don't want them flicking on and off rapidly so the delay is fine.
7) I disconnected the 2nd relay which I think was for the park lights.
8) There are other wires in the kit but I didn't connect any of them. For example - there is a wire that you could connect to the wipers so that if you switched the wipers on, the headlights come on, but I find that is annoying in my other cars that have the factory auto headlights. Also there are wires to connect into the security system so that the parking lights would flash if the system was armed but I didn't want either - thus no need for the second relay.
For a $30 kit from Amazon, it seems to work great (so far) and I'm happy with the way it works. Just going across 7 & 9 on the headlamp wiring harness does it all when the relay is energized. The headlights come on, the dash lights and tail lights also - just like if you switched the headlights to the on position. So now - I leave my headlamp switch in the Off position, and with the toggle switch up (on) my headlights are automatic.
OK - more detail.
1) The kit specifies that 2 sources of power are required (Red and Yellow wires), one always on or battery (red I think)and the yellow wire switched with the ignition. I opted to connect both of these together and power both from an "only on when the ignition is on circuit in the passenger footwell fuse box. I used an "Add a circuit" I got from a local autoparts place and is the easiest way to add another circuit without splicing any wires. I fed this via a toggle switch which was supplied with the module. The toggle switch had it's own connection spot on the module but I didn't use that connection. I unsoldered the wires from the toggle sw and soldered it in so I could shut off all power to the kit if required. I figured these 2 sources of power were to allow the parking lights to flash or something if the vehicle security system was armed. My Mustang has that so I didn't need it.
2) I set the kit up on the bench and connected the photocell to the module and used a light bulb above the photocell to see what would activate. Only 1 relay (the headlamp relay) operated - de-energized with lots of light on the photocell and energized when the light was at a low level simulating a dark condition. The supplied relay had wires connected to Normally Open contacts and these 2 wires go to the wires 7 & 9 on the dash light switch as per my picture above. If you look closely you can see the wire numbers on the plastic connector and I added text on the pics.
3) Removing the factory dash switch is relatively easy. Open the side access port on drivers side of the dash (open the door and you'll see it) and push the switch out the front. There are 4 clips which hold the switch assembly in and these seemed relatively loose and fell out on me many times. I used some glue to hold them into the switch so they wouldn't fall out anymore. When you pull the switch out, the wires come out the hole and it is fairly easy (now) to determine which wires to use. There are 2 connectors - one for the headlamp switch and one for the dash dimmer. Obviously use the headlight switch wires. Before you splice the 2 relay wires onto wires 7 & 9 use a jumper to test the headlamp activation. Just jumper/short between wires 7 & 9 and the lights should come on with or with out the key in the ignition. This is the same as turning the headlamp switch to the "Headlights On" position. Once you verify that yours works, then strip some wire insulation off the wires on 7 & 9 and connect/solder the relay wires onto each wire. You might also have one of those cute easy splices too. I stripped about 1/4" of insulation and soldered the wires from the kit relay and taped them up.
4) Next is mounting the photocell. I put mine in the drivers side close to the front of the dash and ran the wires back inside the dash and plugged it into the kit module.
5) I drilled a hole in the dash headlight switch and mounted the toggle switch in it. Now that is is done and works fine, I probably would have mounted the siwtch in a less conspicious place because I'll probably never used it - but I wanted to have an easy way to turn the auto headlights kit off if the module ever screwed up or if for some reason I didn't want them to come on in the dark. Your choice I guess.
6) There is a potentiometer in the headlight kit if you slide a small cover off. It didn't seem to do much (I wondered why) but I just left it in mid position. The headlights come on immediately if the photocell senses darkness and there is about a 10 second delay in seeing light for the headlights to turn off. I guess for a dark or cloudy day with occasional sun, you don't want them flicking on and off rapidly so the delay is fine.
7) I disconnected the 2nd relay which I think was for the park lights.
8) There are other wires in the kit but I didn't connect any of them. For example - there is a wire that you could connect to the wipers so that if you switched the wipers on, the headlights come on, but I find that is annoying in my other cars that have the factory auto headlights. Also there are wires to connect into the security system so that the parking lights would flash if the system was armed but I didn't want either - thus no need for the second relay.
For a $30 kit from Amazon, it seems to work great (so far) and I'm happy with the way it works. Just going across 7 & 9 on the headlamp wiring harness does it all when the relay is energized. The headlights come on, the dash lights and tail lights also - just like if you switched the headlights to the on position. So now - I leave my headlamp switch in the Off position, and with the toggle switch up (on) my headlights are automatic.
4/22/13, 11:22 AM
#6
Great writeup, thanks for taking the time.
Just ordered the kit from Amazon $23 plus free prime shipping makes this a no brainer.
Only thing I'm debating is the switch, it'd be nice to find a OEM headlamp switch that will retrofit that has an Auto selection. Similiar to my F150:
Have you ever needed to turn yours off? I guess I could just hide the switch in the console if I ever needed to turn it off.
Just ordered the kit from Amazon $23 plus free prime shipping makes this a no brainer.
Only thing I'm debating is the switch, it'd be nice to find a OEM headlamp switch that will retrofit that has an Auto selection. Similiar to my F150:
Have you ever needed to turn yours off? I guess I could just hide the switch in the console if I ever needed to turn it off.
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Morereps5 (8/17/19)
4/24/13, 12:02 PM
#7
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I did something similar, different module and a different switch (see the last page of the writeup)
2005-2009 Mustang Automatic Headlamp Installation.pdf
2005-2009 Mustang Automatic Headlamp Installation.pdf
4/24/13, 08:21 PM
#8
I've attached the relevant Ford diagrams for anyone else looking to do this.
I think that we can eliminate the relay module from the system since the negative headlamp on signal is relayed elsewhere in the car and the directed module supplies a negative trigger. Using only a single ignition source for the constant and ignition for the module was a great idea as well. Starting to look like a simple install: headlamp negative, ignition, and ground.
I think that we can eliminate the relay module from the system since the negative headlamp on signal is relayed elsewhere in the car and the directed module supplies a negative trigger. Using only a single ignition source for the constant and ignition for the module was a great idea as well. Starting to look like a simple install: headlamp negative, ignition, and ground.
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