Weight Distribution
 

I searched through this forum but could not find much ...

Does any know what the weight (F/R) weight distribution is for the Mustang GT? The only weight distribution I have found is for the Ecoboost; stated to be 52%/48% (F/R)

Thanks

"Though it gains a few pounds compared with the outgoing model, this 2015 Mustang carries its burden more evenly. In EcoBoost guise, weight distribution is 52/48 front-to-rear; wearing 5.0 trim, it's slightly more nose-heavy at 53/47."

Source:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...y-the-numbers/

Thanks. I wonder if that is with or without a full tank of gas and what it assumes regarding the driver weight. I am exploring what it would take to get the vehicle to 50/50 (essentially removing front end weight and/or moving front end items to the rear (like the battery)

Lets do a little math here. If the GT weights 3700 pounds, thats 1961 pounds in the front and 1739 in the rear. The ideal would be 1850 pounds on both end meaning that you have to shift 111 pounds from front to back. I don't think net weight ratios include a full gas tank, a full gas tank of 16 gal weight over 100 pounds so it must surely helps for balance purposes. Considering the weight of the battery I don't this it would make a big difference.

Adding weight for better distribution will never result in performance gains... You'll always be slower with that extra weight, regardless of how close to 50/50 you get.

the goal is to never ADD weight (weight is the enemy); rather to remove it from the front and if necessary add it back to the rear.

Assuming the that vehicle weighs 3705 pounds (dry), has a dry weight distribution of 53% F / 47% R, and has a wheel base of 107.1", the following can be expected:

• add a 190 pound driver about midway between the front and rear wheels: 52.8%/47.2%
• add 100 lbs for a full tank of gas (6.3lbs / gal): 51.5%/48.5%
• move the battery (assumed to be 30 lbs) to the trunk 50.7% / 49.3%
• move unspecified additional 55 lbs from the front : 50/50

The first two just happen; #3 is "not hard"; the last will take some work. But looking around, there are some bits that could be removed. The key is to look for stuff that is as far forward as possible. 5 lbs 12" in front of the front axle has a lot more impact than 5 lbs 12" behind.

continuing with my queries about weight ...

anyone know what options are included the weight stipulated by Ford and others. Some options are deceptively heavier than others. For example, manual seats are lighter than stock or "optioned" seats because they have no motors and associated mechanics to generate the 6 degrees of freedom, etc. I suspect that high end stereo systems probably add a few pounds in the wrong places.

Anyone know how much weight savings one can obtain by replacing the original headers with, for example, long tube headers. OEM exhaust systems are heavy and you can save a lot with aftermarket systems. People normally start at the back with mufflers and work forward. That reduces weight but in the wrong places. Not sure how much you can save on the current Mustang but having replaced the entire exhaust on my BMW M3 with a complete Supersprint system (headers, racing cats, X tube, racing muffler), I saved about 55 pounds.

Best opportunity is the driveshaft. Solid steel DS (and even more so CF) can save you 20 pounds easily.

I'm sure there is about 20lbs to shave if you replace the midpipe box and mufflers.

And then the stock wheels are heavy too at over 30lbs. You can shave 6-7lbs per corner, so 24-32lbs total.

I don't think there are a lot of weight savings in the headers.

Thanks; useful ideas. I had not considered the driveshaft.

In my brief exploration of exhaust systems, I found (not surprising) that how much you save is a function of mostly muffler size. As an example, the Magnaflow Competition CatBack system (which has rather small mufflers) claims to save 40 pounds.

Your wheel suggestion is doubly useful, saves overall weight and reduces unsprung mass

@gelbm3 the exhaust resonator has been weighed at 30+ lbs. removing that is a gimme. Then you have the engine covers and the underhood insulation. Not a lot of weight but still.
Some have gone to aftermarket brake rotors but those are usually $1K or a little less.

I highly doubt 2 exhaust resonators weigh 30 pounds. Just sayin

OP why do you want to do this? Better for road racing or do you want to go drag racing or something else? Just wondering

Go ahead and doubt it, then get under a S550 and drop the exhaust on your chest. Anyway the S550 GT models have a large suitcase like resonator just after the cats. There are also two mufflers in the rear. You can remove the whole exhaust as one unit (i did) and it is really heavy. The Kooks catback I installed was @48 lbs shipped.

S550 resonator weighs 15 pounds...I weighed it after I removed it and put in a 8 pound FRP x-pipe.

Lets agree to disagree then; as I know the OEM catback weight is 72lbs. If you lift one intact you will have to make a serious effort to get the resonator off the ground. Further the passenger side header is 10 lbs, the driver side header is 19lbs (has a cat). The two mid pipes weigh 22lbs together (one has the other cat). So the entire OEM exhaust system is made heavy duty.

More info from a local source
 

@gelbm3 Here is some more info for you: A lot of guys worked to get this info.
Mostly taking their cars apart to upgrade them. Just like you.

OEM PP Shock Tower Brace: 7.6lbs

OEM PP K-Brace: 10.4lbs

OEM Front Subframe (K-Member): 58.2lbs

OEM Rear IRS Subframe (Empty): 55lbs

OEM IRON Diff Housing, Loaded - No Fluid: 99lbs

OEM IRS Halfshafts: 21.1lbs/each
FRPP Halfshafts: 30.2lbs/each

OEM Rear Lower Control Arm: 15.24lbs - each

OEM Rear Upper Camber Link Arm: 4.65lbs - each

OEM Vertical Link:
BMR Billet Vertical Link: 1.8lbs - each

OEM Rear Toe Link/Rod Arm: 2.42lbs - each
BMR Adjustable Toe Rod w/ Lock Out Plate:

OEM Rear IRS Cradle Mount Bushings: 1.05lbs - each
BMR Delrin Cradle Mount Bushings: .50lbs - each

OEM Rear IRS Diff Mount Bushings: .90lbs - each
BMR Billet Aluminum Diff Bushings: 1.47lbs - each

OEM Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings: 1.1lbs - each
BMR RLCA Bearing Upgrade Bushings: OEM EPAS Rack: 36.46lbs

OEM Motor Mounts: 3.9lbs - each
BMR Adjustable Motor Mounts: 1.9lbs - each

OEM Windshield Washer Fluid Res. w/ Fluid: 9lbs

OEM Battery: 31.31lbs
Deka ETX18 - 17.67lbs

OEM Catback Exhaust: 72lbs
Magnaflow Comp CB - 44lbs

OEM GT/V8 Passenger Side Header: 10lbs.
OEM GT/V8 Driver's Side: 19lbs
Borla GT/V8 Longtube Headers: 14.2lbs per side

OEM Base 18" GT Wheel w/ Tire: 54.5lbs
OEM PP Model 19" GT Wheel w/ Tire: F-60.6lbs / R-64.3lbs
OEM Dark Stainless Painted Aluminum 19" x 8.5" Wheel w/ Tire: 57.6 lbs
OEM Premium20x9 Foundry Wheel: 35.7 lbs
Billet Specialties 17x4.5 w/ MT SR 28" Radial - 39.8lbs
Billet Specialties 17x9.5 w/ MT 28" Drag Radial - 51lbs

OEM GT Cloth Seat: 50lbs
Corbeau FX1 w/ Bracket - 21.7lbs

OEM "Mid Pipes" w/ Cats: 22lbs
MAK O/R Pipes -

OEM GT Base 14" Front Brake Kit (Rotor/Caliper/Pads) - 43.8lbs per side (87.6lbs total L+R)
OEM GT PP 15" Front Brake Kit (Rotor/Caliper/Pads): - 47.2lbs per side (94.4lbs total L+R)
Aerospace 13" Lightweight Street Brakes (Rotor/Caliper/Pads/Brackets) - 19.4lbs per side (38.8lbs total L/R)

OEM GT 14" Base Front Rotor: 28.56lbs (57.12lbs pair)
OEM GT PP 15" Front Rotor: 33.4lbs (66.8lbs pair)
Aerospace 13" Lightweight Street Rotor - 14.3lbs (28.6lbs pair)

OEM GT Base Front Caliper: 15.24lbs
OEM GT PP Front Caliper: 13.8lbs
Aerospace Lightweight Front Caliper - 5.1lbs (10.2lbs pair)

OEM Front Sway Bar: 12.7lbs

OEM Front V8/GT Coil Springs: 4.8lbs - each
BMR Drag Front Springs: 3.95lbs - each
BMR Performance Front Springs: 4.8lbs - each
BMR Min Drop Front Springs: 4.75lbs - each
BMR Handling Front Springs: 4.8lbs - each

OEM Rear V8/GT Coil Springs: 9.7lbs - each

OEM Front Sway Bar End Links: 1.6lbs pair
BMR Adjustable Front End Links: 2.2lbs pair

OEM 2-Piece Driveshaft / Auto: 29lbs
OEM 2-Piece Driveshaft / Manual: 36.2lbs
Shaftmasters Auto 1-Piece Aluminum DS - 19lbs
DSS Auto 1-Piece Aluminum DS - 27.6lbs

OEM Front Spindle/Hub Assembly: 19.3lbs each

OEM Front Control Arm: 4.3lbs each

OEM Front Radius Arm: 6.8lbs each

OEM Front Tie Rod: 2lbs each

OEM Tire Air Pump: 5lbs

OEM EVAP Module/Canister

OEM Engine Sound Tube: 1.3lbs

OEM Engine Coil Covers: .75lbs/each

OEM Engine Cover: 3.4lbs

OEM Battery Cover: 1.23lbs

OEM Plastic Trunk Latch Cover: 2.40lbs

OEM Rear Seats: 30.8lbs

OEM Rear Lower Seat Cushion: 11lbs

OEM Trunk Carpet Cover: 4.6 pounds.

OEM Stock Floor Mats: 2.6 pounds.

OEM Carpet / Complete: 16.5lbs

Good question from RoadK9. What is your goal OP? I know you also have a 2003ish M3. Is the goal to make your S550 handle and feel like the M3?

Not sure about the S550, but here is my S197 with no weight reduction and $2k of suspension mods having no issues keeping up with an M3 driven by an instructor with CGI motorsports.

yes I asked the same question

Good info. Many Bothans died to bring us this information.

With a 50/50 weight distribution, the car is a little more neutral in corners. The Mustang GT is a heavy car and every little bit helps. The difference between 53/47 and 50/50 is probably not very noticeable to most people but just the IDEA of 50/50 is appealing. Reducing weight on any vehicle is always a good goal. 150lbs on a 3700 lb car can make quite a difference.

Yes, I would like to get the Mustang to handle more like the M3. My M3 is unusual but there are lots of track guys who have done similar mods. I started out with a no frills E46M3 built for me at the BMW factory: manual seats, basic radio, absolutely no extras that added weight. I then spent several years rebuilding everything from the tire patches to the frame to improve handling and reduce weight. I also redid the intake and installed a complete Supersprint racing exhaust system. All in all, I have reduced the weight of the vehicle (at one point) by almost 200 lbs. The battery is in the rear so I have not played with that. The weight today is higher than what it was previously. I ran super light forged rims for many years but have replaced them with the original OEM rims for safety reasons. I also have a real spare in the trunk. I run a non-staggered configuration with OEM rears on both the front and rear which does increase front end weight a bit. I run -2 degrees camber in the front and rear and 10mm plates in the rear. The significant neg camber in the front allows me to run much wider than stock tires (255/40 vs 225/45) and still keep the tire inside the wheel well (at least at the top). The original 225/40 fronts were the lawyer's way to get the car to plow. The car is now neutral to some oversteer (which is always fun) which is somewhat controllable by the thickness of the offset plates I run in the rear.