2018 GT Suggestions / My build
 

Hello. I am new here and to the Mustang GT. So let me hear it. Any mod suggestions or ideas. Anything a mustang GT owner needs to know or do with their mustang. So far everything looking and sounding great. Was thinking of resonator delete with adding after market H pipe. So far like the sound of that. I have base GT Manual. No active exhaust.

AND did you know if you press down the open door key fob button twice and hold it the second time your windows automatically open . I just learned that. Lol stuff like this I need to learn from you all. Thanks in advance.

BTW, this is not my daily driver gonna be just for fun!

I'd get some of the BMR or Steeda suspension bits and do springs/shocks/struts after the exhaust. Tint the windows. Add some of the Roush front end bits that clean up the fascia. Then do wheels and tires if you want, or add some spacers to the factory wheels for now.

Save your money for replacement tires and auto insurance. Try not to add weight with any mods and do-dads.

Thanks for responses. I am going to take my time and do things slowly.
Question, the rear difusser, ive seen mustangs that have them color match painted. Is this something I can do with my OEM diffuser valance part. Or do i have to buy an after market diffuser to paint it? What should I buy and or look for one?

You're probably thinking of the 2015-2017 base cars. They had all painted bumpers instead of the black plastic. The 2018+ all seem to have black lower valances. I'm sure a body shop could sand/prep/paint it body color if you really wanted.

Anyone purchase and install the GT350 Spoiler - black? there are cheaper versions and then more expensive versions, from like $100 to $300. Was reading that they are floppy in the wind at highway speeds? looking for some feed back on them, appreciate it. I understand some come with a bottom to cover two holes and the others don't

Are you just looking to change your spoiler to black? Or are you actually wanting a completely different looking spoiler?

If you just want the color change, look into a place that does vinyl vehicle wraps. They'll be able to wrap it in a gloss, satin, or matte black, and you'd never be able to tell the difference unless you got right up close and inspected it.

I'm planning on doing my spoiler and hood vents that way soon.

Planning on changing to a different spoiler. I have low profile one right now. I will also considering vinyl wrap. Good to know. Want to get the roof gloss black and the spoiler the same to match. My GT is kona blue. I think that would like pretty good.

1st mod on my 18 GT coming soon. I ordered a heartthrob h pipe, and will delete resonator. So will receive next week and I'll install it that weekend. I know YouTube videos are hard to hear exact sound but a heartthrob sounded really good. I am sure they are about all the same. I heard steeda, good too but already ordered. So we will see! Plus that quad tip exhaust with stock mufflers sounds good already so the h pipe will add to it a bit, but not be overwhelming like muffler delete or after market mufflers. Easy mod and not too expensive.

Duplicate sorry

I guess this thread will serve as my build thread. Ordered and received an h-pipe. Will be installing this weekend.

what you gurus think the estimated cost is to paint the roof gloss black? trying to determine what people paid to get an idea, thanks for your help

Shouldn't be more than $150-300 depending on the body shop.

I got a qoute for about 330 paint.for vinyl was going to be 400..cool thanks for input

Ha funny the vinyl should be less right?!

I thought it would be less. I don't want to try it on my own either, no skill in that lol

Installed H Pipe today. Darn pipe was a little too long, had to make adjustments, etc. Incorrect measurement instructions. But all done now, took longer than expected. It sounds better, especially on cold start up. Overall, very satisfied, I don't want the loud mufflers, and the H Pipe added just the right sound I wanted to stock mufflers.

Ok, I am putting on some aftermarket wheels 18x9 square, all around. I figure wider tires will help some with performance but also want to be able to rotate tires, etc. So with 18x9 wheels instead of the 18x8, what size tires do you all recommend to give a good stance and also good traction. I was thinking of getting some of the Mickey Thompson S/S (street to strip) tires. Need help or suggestions , thanks in advance!

did you end up getting wheels?

I would invest in an aftermarket shifter. I always hated the stock one. It felt to mushy and imprecise. I'll be getting a Barton short throw shifter and a h-pipe in the spring.

EXHAUST
 

I have a MRT stainless H- pipe on my 2018. Replacing the stock resonator with the H- pipe gave the exhaust a deeper tone. Most owners say a X- pipe has a more raspy high pitched sound.

Yes, Cosmis XT-206R, (gun metal) 18x9 all around. They are nice, added some Mickey Thompson street comp tires as well.

I vote H-pipe. But I am biased, that is what i have. Delete the resonator. Difference in sound is the H-pipe is a little more throaty. Whereas the X-pipe is more raspy. They say the H-pipe is more like classic muscle car sound. Either one is good. As far as performance, from what Ive read, the H pipe is better on the low end, while the X pipe is better on the high end. I don't think there is a big difference in added performance though.

Update to this thread. I am adding BMR lowering springs (performance). Drop is about 1.2 inch in front and 0.5 inch in rear. I haven't finished but finishing this weekend. I'll post pics when complete.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...69e268de26.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...db015d9c03.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...cb599e20ec.png
Here are some pics. BMR performance lowering springs. And Cosmis wheels, Mickey Thompson tires. I like the look, I feel the drop is perfect, just enough. Also installed the BMR lockout kit.

Love the wheels and the drop.

How much influence does the resonator, X-pipe, or H-pipe have on performance tests or on emissions tests or on sound-level tests? It seems to me any aftermarket adjustments to these pieces of hardware likely fall in the category of "Mount Everest Syndrome—I climb it because I can, not for any substantial gain other than knowing I did it".

If resonator-delete or X- / H-pipe swap makes a real difference, why doesn't Ford build the cars that way?

Another un-answered question: It's common to read that someone's new exhaust will sound different "when it's broken in". What, exactly are the physical changes to the hardware's status that result in a different sound caused by break-in use?

Awesome, thanks, I really like it. This is my first mustang and as you can see I am having fun. I am older, 43 years old, and always wanted a mustang and finally did it! lol so having very much fun with it.

Plus as you can see, I did smoke tint on the lights, front and rear, side, etc. But in Texas you cant tint your front headlights, sooo i did only the corners on the headlights lol..

Ford probably produces mustangs in a certain way because of emissions testing, mpg, etc. They also probably take into account the average car buyer that does not want a loud sounding exhaust. The performance gains for deleting the resonator for an H or X pipe is very small in the amount of added HP, it allows for a little more free flow exhaust air. As far as sound, there is no debating that the sound increases with either an H or X pipe while deleting the resonator. Its all what is in your taste. You can check out American Muscle and they have actual decibel testing for products like this. Again, performance wise probably 5 HP added, not sure, you can look that up as well. But, the 2018 Mustang GT does sound way better stock than previous years in my opinion. As far as exhaust "break in" i don't think it exists. At least it didn't for me. I researched all this online and "break-in" was not really valid. But, i could be wrong. After I changed it on my vehicle, my new exhaust sounds the same now as right after I installed it.

these are subjective questions and I don't have direct experience with all of them but will comment anyway:

Performance -- practically zero; maybe 1 or 2 HP difference at most (assuming you are keeping the catalytic converters)
Emissions -- should be zero, if you keep the catalytic converters. If you remove the catalytic converters, you might pick up a few HP, and it will be a lot louder, but you'll make your car illegal per federal law
Sound level -- resonator is basically a mini pre-muffler, so removing it makes it a little louder. H and X mostly change the "quality" of the sound, the volume depends more on the muffler than the mid-pipe style

yeah I would consider these things for the fun of it, not because I was expecting some specific improvement . . . ."don't expect too much, and you won't be disappointed"

Ford tries to build the cars to appeal to the most potential buyers. They also have to meet loudness restrictions from all 50 states. After you buy the car, you have more flexibility to change it to your personal tastes, which someone else might not like.

This one seems like a stretch to me too, and I think the differences are very subtle in most cases. Some muffler systems use packing materials that change a little when they get hot and/or coated with residue from the exhaust and that can change the sound a little. I would not expect any change at all for "break in" of X-pipe or H-pipe since they are just pipes.

I think what they mean by exhaust break-in, is after they have modified their exhaust system and not had the engine re-tuned, it's the eventual sound the exhaust makes when the catalytic converter clogs up. Just sayen.

LOL . . . . no, that would be "exhaust broken" :-)

Old school glass packs would get louder with age.

^^^ probably because the glass is continuing to pack

Old school glass packs were ticket magnets.

I know there are differing opinions about whether new springs "settle", but after about 3 weeks of adding BMR springs, I really feel the suspension has settled some. The car looks a tad bit lower than the pic I posted after installation. And that's a good thing because it looks even better. By how much, I don't know , but the look is exactly what I was going for. I didn't take measurements before or after but can tell just by sight. What are your thoughts about springs "settling" fact or myth?

Did you get and install the Barton short throw shifter ?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...1becc7f6d1.jpg
Installed the Barton two post shifter support bracket today. The stock one is pretty flimsy compared to the Barton bracket. Pic attached. It was $129 at American muscle. Figured I try this with stock shifter and see if there was any huge difference before possibly moving up to the short throw. I drove today and there was not a WOW factor in noticeable difference. But we will see after more driving. Easy instal just a PITA, such a small spot.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...ed662378f3.jpg
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Got some aggressive rear wheels. Filled up the rear wheel wells. Not going to use as daily of course but check it out..Cosmis wheels 17x10 +22 offset. 305/45/17 Mickey Thomson SS tires.very slight fender rubbing on rear driver side.. it's dropped though by 0.50 inch glad I didn't drop by 1inch before.

looks tough as nails. Can you put a small spacer under the rear spring? 1/8" so maybe it won't rub at all.

That is a very good suggestion, didnt think about that, thanks! I'll look into it. I would love to drive with them on sometimes, especially if I find same front wheels to match..rubbing is slight, but a very small spacer would do the trick..

@Glenn, I looked into it and Steeda offers 1/8 inch spacers which will translate to about 1/4 inch raise in the rear. That would be perfect. So if I decide to ride these daily, I'll install the spacers. Thanks for the suggestion, that would clear any issues. Plus, I can keep the aftermarket BMR springs. Sweet!

Installed the 1/8 steeda spring spacers. And the difference was 1/4 inch on the fender higher. Perfect. Since I was going to do that, i also purchased the Steeda rear chassis alignment kit for the BMR lockout. I already had the BMR lockout kit on. But the alignment kit works pretty good, so good the BMR lockout cradle aligned perfect in all holes. Even the two small pain in the *** screws on the front. Once one rear alignment sleeve is in with the subframe bolt, all the rest are easy. But now my steering wheel alignment is off, so have to go get an alignment done. Overall so far so good. Also added BMR vertical links. Pic of the stock link and BMR.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...129f8f1161.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...45f55d39d1.jpg

I just purchased it last weekend and will be installing it shortly. I'll let you know how it feels when I get it installed.

awesome! let us know how it goes. give us any tips as well for installation..

I've got the shifter in and it shifts like a dream! I'll get some pics up soon but for now I'll go over the install part. If you're going to ditch the factory resonator box, DO IT NOW! It's a lot easier to install this with the exhaust out of the way. I got an MRT H-pipe and installed it at the same time as my shifter and having the exhaust out did give me more room to move around. You don't need to remove the driveshaft or exhaust to get this in but it does help. I left the driveshaft in but it wasn't a big issue. Also, access to a lift would help but I was able to do my install with my set of Quickjacks. It also helps if you loosen the trans mount so you can drop the transmission a bit to get at certain bolts. There are no instructions with the kit but I bought my shifter from CJponyparts.com and they have a step-by-step video on the install as well as a rundown of all the needed tools and sockets for the installation. I did add a little dab of white lithium grease on each bushing to make sure everything moves freely, just don't go overboard. You need to separate the shifter body to do this install if you leave the transmission installed so I added a very small bead of RTV where the shifter body splits in half to keep out water and such. It's not necessary but I figured it's better to be safe than sorry. Once again just use a small amount, don't go smearing it on like peanut butter! All in all it wasn't a hard install provided you have patience and take your time. Good Luck if you decide to purchase one, you won't be disappointed!

awesome good to hear its worth it. i plan on doing the barton short throw but maybe in the coming months. good info, thanks for sharing.

I installed the H pipe and replaced the rear boxes with more open performance rears, after a month I refitted the resonater delete because the drone in the cabin at certain revs was unbareable withnthe H pipe.

cant comment if it even gave any HP gains ( I have a 2017 5 liter)
im going to have the new software installed that I am told is the business and raises the Hp and torque, been offered it for free ...will do it on a dyno so I can see if it's actually an improvement

i have the 25mm wheel spacer kit with standard 19' wheels it makes the car look like it's been lowered I painted my OEM wheels from the horrid silver to satin black

it's not a great car but it's ok more comfortable than my Aston from a seating position but way underpowered in comparison to the British muscle car

now is it just my rubbish driving skills or do these heaps just not go around corners???

Cool. But the drone is from your different mufflers, not the resonator delete. I deleted the resonator and have the stock mufflers (stock axleback) and have no drone what-so-ever. The H-Pipe will not give much more HP. Its just for sound and opens up the sound a little. The corners, probably more of a stock suspension issue, you can lower the car a bit get some suspension parts that will help on the corners depending what you go with. I just have some rear stock after market parts just to stop the wheel hop on acceleration. The 2017 is i believe 425 HP i think, and the 2018+ is at 460 HP, so you are missing a little more HP than the new ones. Mustang is a straight up muscle car not comparable to an Aston for sure. And way less expensive lol

Digital dash
 

My 2018 GT is base, one thing I wish I had though is the digital dash. I've heard you can buy them aftermarket. Has anyone replaced the oem dash to the digital dash?

I think there was a thread on here where someone did that maybe one of our moderators could help you find it. :dunno:

Installed Steeda Tri X short throw shifter. Very nice product and smooth direct shifting. If you are on the fence of doing this mod, just do it. It's just the shifter and requires patience to install, very tight space under the car. With right tools it's not tough.

hello, I’m also new. I recently installed my first mod, a Borla ATAK cat back exhaust system with and x-pipe and I love the sound. Check out YouTube