grabberblue 5.0

Maybe if it was just a couple of people complaining I would agree, but there a re numerous people that does not like the stock shifter for most of the same reason, the fact that it does not easily go into gear and that it's often hard to find the gears.

Maybe a little pilot error, but in this case a lot of ford fail too

Rando

It's interesting that the GT owners have notching from 2nd to 3rd and v6 owners have notching from 1st to 2nd. My 2nd to 3rd shifts are just fine

stangfoeva

I find the opposite is true, the harder I drive it the better it shifts. It's a little notchy at slower speeds or before the fluid is warmed up. But shifting at high RPM is buttery smooth. It's almost like the car is begging me to drive faster.

cdynaco

All trans are stiff when cold. And especially where there's 4 seasons.
That shouldn't surprise anyone that's been driving a manny for years.

conv_stang

Yep mine it's the same way...cold it's notchy so I just drive normal until it warms up alittle. I've had mine lock out twice and I was babying it at high rpm. If I just shift quick, or am power shifting at the track never had any issues. And even when it's cold it never grinds. Grinding sounds like operator error

stangfoeva

db2797

The grinding is not operating error. Again, unless for the first two shifts EVERY SINGLE time I first get in the car I forget how to drive a manual.

You've been locked out when "babying" it but you say it drives better when you powershfit? Aren't you implying then that something isn't quite right with your trannie too? Babying vs. powershifting shouldn't matter. If anything, you should always have more problems when powershifting at high RPM's since that puts the most stress on the entire trans chain.

conv_stang

Nah...it's operator error. I forget its not the T56 in my cobra and I actually think I hit between the 3-5 lol when I power shift I just ram it on the 2-3 shift and it never happens
And we all have those mornings where we forget how to drive a manual
But grinding isn't normal. None of the mt82 I've drive have grinded in any gears. But it did take me a bit to get used to it. The clutch in my cobra is short and sweet. This one has to be put to the floor :/

2012GT

How was the tranny in the 03/04 Cobras? I've never driven one.

conv_stang

Have the same one in my 98 Cobra...never driven stock 03/04 Cobra. It's notchier with my pro 5-0 shifter. The throws I think are actually shorter than the stock shifter on the mt82. But shifter placement sucks compared to the s197. And there is more space between the gears from side to side. But I've never had a single issue with the trans

Mirad_GT12

Define grind. I know when I grind gears and its operator error. Now I know the MT82 noises that it makes. I dont know if people are loosely calling any noise that comes from the tranny as "gear grinding". Gear grind is operator error. But I am aware that it still makes noises no matter how perfect you shift it. For example on cold starts it will make loud "ka-thunk" or clunking sound on 1-2 or 2-4 shifts. Sometimes it's smooth and quiet.

conv_stang

I think the ka thunk is the drive shaft...mine is noise free. Just notchy and have to drive it differently than my cobra. But I don't have any issues

montreal ponies

I find that after changing the tranny mount and shifter , it shifts much better and no more miss high rpm shift going from 2nd to 3rd.

Vickstang

Tremec 7 Speed please!

db2797

I know the difference between the drive shaft and a grind. Yes...mine is "clunky" too, but that is the drive shaft. Grind as in it rattles your hand.

Also, I know the operator error grind too. Being that I've driven manuals my whole life, I know when it's my fault. It's like shooting a basketball. If you've ever played basketball and you know how when the ball leaves your hand in most cases you can immediately tell it's off just by how it felt when it left your hand. I know the operator error such as releasing the clutch an instance too fast or trying to shift a second too fast before fully pushing in the clutch, or slightly missing the gate. In my case, like I've said...it's 100% reproducible.

Actually watch that other video that somebody posted in 10-14 forum...mine sounds very similar, except it's third gear. I did change the bracket too. That made a huge difference. Before changing the bracket I consistently had lock outs. I can accept the predictable third gear grind on the first time I shift into the gear. I still get lockout but at a much higher RPM than I did before changing the bracket. And since I'm now accepting that this is not a manual really designed for performance driving, I'm ok with it's idiosyncrasies as they are bearable for DD or occasional spirited driving. But I will probably stick to the AT Mustangs in the future for any performance driving and only buy MT's for the fun factor of driving MT's. I'll never be able to give that up.

cdynaco

There is no clunk in the drive shaft.

db2797

Yes there is...

cdynaco

Then you have a flaw in yours.
This is from a Ford engineer on Bullitt that used to post here. This came out of a discussion about an aluminum 1 piece vs the factory 2 piece:

_____guy

Clunk is driven by total driveline lash, dominated by the gear sets and clutch tuning/capability. The 3.73 amplifies this a bit compared to the 3.31 and 3.55 axles. The 2-piece driveshaft is not the cause of the clunk noise. The Bullitt will have higher levels of clunk compared to the base GT. The base GT throttle response is a bit softer than the Bullitt's. The increased throttle response makes the clunk a bit easier to get. It is a trade-off - improved performance feel vs clunk.

_____guy

The post mentions high speed and 160mph - The Mustang (as it leaves AAI) is speed limited well below that for a reason. Like I said before, I do not know specifics about the dynotech piece, what it does or does not do. I do know about the 2-piece in the factory car. It is a fairly robust piece. Vibration is not an issue unless the centerbearing shims are not installed properly, the shaft has a balance issue or the pinion angle is off. These would be quality issues (that I'm not aware of having in production), not design. The 2-pc has no roll in whether or not you have a random vibration. U-joint angles, run-out (flange or shaft), balance and system modal (resonance) response govern vibration.
****************************

_____guy
2 piece drive shaft

The 2-piece driveshaft is required to meet internal engineering requirements for safe operation at max vehicle speed. Basically, it is designed to provide a driveline system resonance well above what the speed limiter will allow you to operate at. If you put your driveline into resonance, bad things may happen! I've seen what it does to a car and it isn't pretty.

The driveshaft CV joints are required components on this type of driveshaft when combined with a live axle. If the rear suspension were IRS, simple flex couplings would be used (look at the new Camaro, Challenger, etc...) and would make for a lighter driveshaft.

The driveshaft also has an internal torsional damper (ITD) which is soley there to attenuate axle whine. If package allowed, the ITD would be mounted on the exterior of the driveshaft as a much lighter ring design. Since the equivalent inertia is required out of the smaller diameter part when installed inside the driveshaft, the mass has to increase. So, you get a heavier ITD vs a lightweight ETD.

A single piece steel or aluminum 1-piece would have to be larger in diameter than the current package allows. Basically, you would have contact with the fuel tank at full rear suspension jounce. 1-piece carbon fiber was explored at one time...

db2797

Ok so the driveshaft isn't the SOLE reason the clunk exists. But it doesn't appear that the engineer your copying the post from is completely discounting that the driveshaft could also contribute in some manner. He's just pointing out that it's the entire driveline lash is involved in the clunk. And as the engineer points out, depending on gearing that "clunk" can become more pronounced. That "slack" in the driveshaft has to be taken up someplace when the driveshaft is engaged.

cdynaco

Read into it what you want, I'm not going to argue with you. Like you stated, he said there would be more clunk with a more aggressive tune, different gears in the track-lock.
But he stated matter of fact that clunk does not comes from the 2 piece shaft itself. It is the other parts of the driveline that you hear taking up any slack. Bullitt has the more aggressive GT500KR 3.73 diff, and a more responsive tune than the 08/09 GT, so some were thinking the noise was the shaft.
With as many hours of design and testing that engineers have put into the S197 - up close and with a variety of trial and error - and the thoroughness in which he answered what was presumed to be a simple issue, I'll trust what he says.

*The 2-piece driveshaft is not the cause of the clunk noise.
*I do know about the 2-piece in the factory car. It is a fairly robust piece.
*The 2-pc has no roll in