As of yesterday my car doesn't have working air conditioning. I don't know if I should expect any codes displayed in the dash but I'm not getting any. Visual inspection shows nothing wrong with the compressor or clutch. What I do notice is the load on the engine that normally happens when the compressor turns on isn't happening anymore, but it does appear the clutch does engage. I am assuming if it was a fuse it wouldn't engage the clutch at all. I don't know how to check for pressure to see if there are leaks and I haven't taken it anywhere. The one mechanic I trusted doesn't have a shop anymore. I'm hesitant on taking it anywhere until I have a better idea of what could be wrong. And if anyone has a shop they like in the Sacramento area I would appreciate the recommendations. Thanks for the help.
​​​

 

Welcome!

The Short Answer is it's Likely Just Low on Freon!

But That is Just a Guess Without Checking Pressure. Most Parts Houses Carry Freon Recharge Kits With Gauge These Days! This Guys Vids are Usually Pretty Good!

 

Thank you for the suggestion and the video. I can see how it would detect proper pressure then shut off due to not enough pressure. I'll try getting a manifold pressure gauge set to verify.

 

You Are Welcome!

COOL DEAL!

Kc

 

Yup, Freon would be my guess.

 

Same guess here as well...

 

it sounds like you are probably on the right track from previous replies

No, many codes do not trip the "Check Engine Light" (CEL) on the dash. The CEL is mainly for emissions-related issues. To see all the codes, you need a diagnostic code scanner.

But I doubt the A/C would trip any codes anyway, so it probably wouldn't help here regardless.

 

I tested my psi using a Manifold gauge set and the low side was 95 psi. I have no idea what that means. All info online is confusing me. I see numbers below that being OK and others around 110. I tried to test the clutch engine off but I couldn't do it that well alone so that was inconclusive. Is the psi number low?

 

As a Reference I Checked My 02 Harley Truck and Static Not Running Low Side Gauge Reads About 100Psi. When Running and Clutch Cycling I Was Getting About 35Psi. The Air Works Fair in that Vehicle. I Was Going to Check My Shelby But Battery Was Dead! Whats New. Put The Charger On it and Will Cross Check on That as Well When Charged for Reference. All I have Are Low Side Gauges Which Come With A/C Recharge Cans. I Would Surmise Your Stang Should Be Close to Mine and or Truck if Your Outside Temp Was in the 90 Degree Range When You Checked it. Need To Check Running Pressure on Yours For Sure if You Did Not!

I'm No A/C Tech By Any Means But Usually Manage To Keep Them Blowing Cool on My Own. The Adding a Can is The Cheap & Dirty and is Not as Effective as Evacuating, Vacuuming and Recharging Which Sometimes Will Be Unavoidable Such As After a System Failure Which Completely Looses Charge.

Oh And Don't Forget To Change The Cabin Filter! Give The Cowl a Good Clean Out if Any Leaves Are Present!


Kc

 

Thanks. It makes sense that the psi would be different when running which means it is probably low. I was just trying to avoid making more problems by overfilling but I should be able to avoid that.

 

Just following up. It was just low on freon. No issues with the Compressor or any debris. I couldn't find a leak so either it is a very slow leak or my evaporator is leaking. I'll probably know quickly if it's something where I'll be removing my dash. Thanks again to everyone helping in this thread.

 

Thanks For Coming in And Updating! Don't Be a Stranger!

No System is Airtight. They Will All Lose a Charge over Time. Just Like All Engines Seep Oil a Little or Some A Lot! Sitting is The Hardest as The Seals Can Dry Out A Bit.

Also a Long Lost No No Is Turning Your Air On At Speed in The Older Systems. I Seem To Recall In Some Owners Manuals in the 60's Cars! Just a Fun fact.

Its Always Good To Operate All Systems at Random Times To Keep Everything Free. Over The Years Many a Power Window Say in The Rear of a Four Door That Just Never Got Rolled Down. They Would Get Stuck To The Belt Moulding and The Cogs in The Power Window Motor Had Got Dry over The Years And Failed When a New Owner Decided to Roll it Down. I Sold A Lot of Power Window Gear Kits Back In the Day. Only Two Part Numbers For Years, The One Oddball Was The Cars With The Power Mini Vents In The Upscale Models Like a Lincoln.

35+ Years & Ford Parts I Heard a Lot of Stories! Anyhoo I Would Not Fret over The Low Charge Unless it Goes Warm in Less Than a Season. Running The Heater in The Summer Once in awhile Does Not Hurt Either. The Cycling Can Be Done While You Are Washing the Car in The Driveway So You Don't Have To Bake in The Summer or Freeze in The Winter!

Also A good Way To See if Your Window & Other Weatherstrips are Leaking as The Soapy Water Will Bubble Up With The Cabin Pressurized! Used To See Shop Guys Do This To Diag Certain Concerns in The Shop!

Have a Good One!

Kc

 

I had similar same issue, saw the clutch engage and never disengage when AC switch of off. Checked the pressures and was around 55 psi for low and high side, pressure equalizes when AC is off. Evacuated and recharged and still did not cool with the clutch rotating. The clutch may be spinning however the rubber between the outer and inner may have deteriorated. With the car off, I hand turned the clutch and noticed the center was not spinning. When the clutch was removed the center fell out from the clutch. I was able to replace the just the clutch and now have cold AC.

 

Welcome & Thanks For The Great Update!

I See You Joined in 2013 and This Was a First Post! Wow

KC

 

Been a lurker and reading lots of posts, LOL. Decided to post on A/C issue and share my experience.

 

Welcome Lurker (@konablue2012) ...

Glad you are on the site. We appreciate your input. Thanks for posting the info, I am sure it will be helpful to others!