2013 GT Track Pack: My MT82 Experience, Your Advice Please / First Scheduled Service
 

Hi all:

Been loving my 2013 GT 6MT Track Pack for around 6 months (about 5,500 miles) and I just got a call from my dealership for my first scheduled maintenance (timed at 6 months I'm sure). I'll have them change out the factory oil of course for new 5W-50 for the Track Pack, maybe rotate the Pirellis (still look great), but I'm not sure what to do with my experience with the MT82. The disconcerting behavior that I've noticed the most comes when shifting into 1st from a dead stop. At speed shifting is super smooth, and I can bang some pretty quick shifts on hard acceleration -- no complaints there. I've had no lockouts or clutch sticking issues.

Here's what I'm experiencing:

1. My first couple of shifts after the car's sat overnight will grind a little but it goes away quickly after that. I usually let the car warm up for a couple of minutes after starting and during this time I'll work the clutch and stir the shifter a couple of times before taking off. Once I take off I'll still shift a bit more slowly than usual the first couple of times but I still get a little grind. I'm in Southern California, so we're not talking freezing temperatures -- high 50s / low 60s in my garage.

2. At a dead stop, if I push the clutch to the floor and immediately shift to first, usually I'll notice two things: "resistance" going into gear -- not a lot of effort but the shifter doesn't just slide into gear like it usually does. I'm definitely having to overcome some extra friction or something shifting into 1st, although I have never been completely unable to get the car into first -- not even close really. The other thing I notice at the same time is a "bump" from the rear of the car as the shifter goes to 1st; also if I'm sitting on a level surface (like inside my garage), the "bump" is enough to move the car just a tiny bit (again, this is with the clutch to the floor). Now I can avoid this by waiting a few seconds after pushing in the clutch before shifting to 1st or by doing the old shift to 2nd and then quickly to 1st trick. In traffic I've always had the habit of sitting at a red light with the car in neutral and the clutch out and once the light turns green I quickly push the clutch in and shift to first and go; I'm not used to sitting at a light with the car in 1st and the clutch in until it turns green, although I have adapted by anticipating the green and shifting into 1st sooner than I used to. This does not happen with reverse by the way; it seems to engage smoothly no matter what.

I'm not a manual transmission expert but I've driven them (usually "spiritedly") for over 25 years. I vaguely remember doing the 2nd to 1st trick on the T-5 in my old Fox body; I can't remember exactly why but I suspect it was also to smooth the shift into 1st. Since then I've driven a lot of Japanese FWD sticks that did nothing like this, but I can understand why this would be. I've never had a car move (even a little bit) when put in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in. As a non-technician the best way I can describe it overall is that the clutch response feels "slow" when the car's not moving (because if I wait a few seconds it improves), although like I said shifting at speed is fine; I never miss a shift at speed (once I learned how to hit third quickly every time using the "open palm" method).

My questions:

1. What exactly is this resistance in the shifter and the "bump" I'm feeling as I go into 1st (the synchros, etc.)? I just want to know how to best describe it in the future. Could transmission damage (a previous dodgy shift, etc.) cause this?

2. How should I approach this with my dealership? Should I at least get it on the record in case it gets worse? If enough people are experiencing this and it's common enough to be considered normal for the MT82, I don't want them futilely tearing my car apart, particularly if others have done this with no benefit (or even had it made worse). Of course if there's an easy adjustment or lubricating solution I'll have that done, and I'm sure the dealer will be happy to do it. I just don't want to open a can of worms if this is expected behavior for the MT82.

3. For those that have experienced or are experiencing this behavior, did an aftermarket shifter (MGW, etc.) eliminate it? Aside from the behavior I've mentioned above, I'm generally happy with the stock shifting, but I'll expedite installing an aftermarket shifter if it will eliminate what I've described in spite of the reported tradeoffs in noise, vibration, etc.

4. Again, for those that have experienced or are experiencing this behavior, have any alternative lubricants eliminated it? If so I'll try those when I have my scheduled fluid change.

5. If I do nothing, should I expect this behavior to get worse, stay the same, or even get better over time? Like I said I still have only 5,500 miles -- barely broken in by my book. Should I just give it more time?

6. A semi-related question, I've heard that power shifting should be avoided with the MT-82 / Torsen rear end combo. I always let off the gas when I shift, but I've shifted quickly enough to shock-load the driveline and chirp the tires going into 2nd and 3rd. Not very often (I don't take it to the strip), but it's lots of fun of course!

I know the MT82 has been a topic of discussion for a long time, and I understand this thing will probably never shift like a Lexus; if nothing else I hope this answers some questions and settles some concerns for myself and anyone else experiencing the same thing I am. Thanks!

Hi Fred_Garvin,

I’d like to escalate this to the customer service manager of your area and have it looked into. Please make an appointment with your Ford dealer and PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and best daytime number.

Deysha

When your car is idling with the clutch out you are still spinning the front half of your transmission, when you get the clunk it is just from the front half not stopping yet and the back end moving now that you are putting it in gear.
I would still have them look at the clutch and make sure it is completely disengaging, but my V6 does this also. Maybe a second or 2 of wait and it is gone.

Slight change of direction : I had oil changed at 5000 miles and was rather surprised when I got my bill. It took 8 litres of the same oil as the Boss 302 . Have we got more boss parts in our engine than we realize ?

The coyote engine does require 7.2L to be exact.

The extra oil is to make up for the engine oil cooler on track pack cars. I have been getting some 2nd gear trouble lately. It wont go all the way into gear and then when I let the clutch out it will pop out if I don't hold it there. I might have the dealership check it out before I put her on a boat headed for Germany.

2013 Track Pack here, my experience with the MT-82 so far::

I get a slight notchiness/roughness going into 1st & 2nd when the transmission is cold. It doesn't quite grind, but almost. This goes away after 5 minutes of driving. I do warm the engine up before driving, but it makes no difference.

Also noticed the trans is a bit clunky sounding in 1st & 2nd gears at very low speeds...like maneuvering around a crowded parking lot. Almost feels like there's "slop" in the transmission when you get on and off the gas or engage the clutch.

Trade it in and get an Auto unless you're a "muscle car must have a manual" guy. That's all fine if Ford gave us one that worked without having to buy a GT500. The 6r80 is a bullet proof beast.

I thought I read somewhere that the two piece driveshaft is the cause of the clunkiness you are referring to.I installed a Barton shifter and bracket which really improves shifting gears, but I always have to remember to push right going into fifth or sixth gear.

Just put in 3rd or 4th like I do :headbang:

Not true - it's 8 quarts. You might only put 7.2 in but that means there's another 0.8 in the engine still.

Hello mfc133,

I also recommend you bring your vehicle in to your Ford dealer for diagnosis. Then, PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and best daytime number so I can escalate this to the customer service manager for your area.

Deysha

I may have missed it while reading, but I did not see anyone address this part of your question. If you have a stock 5.0, and it appears you do from your signature, your oil is 5W-20, as listed on the oil fill cap. If the dealer put other then 5W-20 in (5W-50 for the Boss?), I would suggest you have them put the correct weight in, at their expense.

If he has the GT Track Package in his vehicle, it will take 5W-50, SD CALSPCL.

Deysha

Thanks Deysha..I missed the Trak Pak in his signature. I was thrown off by his referral to the Boss in his post. :doh:

How does the "track pack" change internal tolerances requiring a 50w oil?

LOL! It’s ok. :p


The GTs with the Track Pack option take 5w-50 like the Boss302, as the internal components of the engines are exactly the same.

Deysha

The GTs with the Track Pack option take 5w-50 like the Boss302, as the internal components of the engines are exactly the same.

Deysha[/QUOTE]
Hi Deysha, would you be able to give us an engine part breakdown of which engine parts a Track Pack and Boss share since there is much contention on this subject on many forums.
Thanks for any info you can share with us

I think you could be mistaken on this one..

Ummm yea; agreed. Track pack now has forged pistons?