My only 2011 complaints
My only 2011 complaints
I've had my 2011 GT with manual transmission for 3 weeks now. First off, this car is absolutely unbelievable, however, nothing is perfect. That being said here are my only complaints(and they are minor to say the least):
The design of the armrest console storage bin makes it too easy to accidentally hit the button to open it with your right elbow when resting your arm between shifts or just during the course of driving. Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem? I figure the best solution is to remove the spring that allows it to open on its own once the button is pressed. If it were to require lifting it while pressing the button this would be all that’s needed to resolve this issue.
The cup holders are almost useless for manual cars. There’s probably no solution to this other than to not drink while driving.
Finally(not a complaint just a question), does anyone have a wiring chart or diagram for the speakers that come with the electronics package(shaker 500)? I'm sure the 2010 is the same as the 2011. I put new Polk 5x7s in all around and they sound great but I have no idea which wire is positive and negative. I took a guess by looking at the back of the speakers noting a dot on the left connector and assumed this was positive. At this point if I have the wiring wrong it’s simple to remove the door panels to correct and the hardest part of installing the rears was removing all the paneling to get them in from the top. Reversing the wiring on those would be simple from the trunk.
The design of the armrest console storage bin makes it too easy to accidentally hit the button to open it with your right elbow when resting your arm between shifts or just during the course of driving. Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem? I figure the best solution is to remove the spring that allows it to open on its own once the button is pressed. If it were to require lifting it while pressing the button this would be all that’s needed to resolve this issue.
The cup holders are almost useless for manual cars. There’s probably no solution to this other than to not drink while driving.
Finally(not a complaint just a question), does anyone have a wiring chart or diagram for the speakers that come with the electronics package(shaker 500)? I'm sure the 2010 is the same as the 2011. I put new Polk 5x7s in all around and they sound great but I have no idea which wire is positive and negative. I took a guess by looking at the back of the speakers noting a dot on the left connector and assumed this was positive. At this point if I have the wiring wrong it’s simple to remove the door panels to correct and the hardest part of installing the rears was removing all the paneling to get them in from the top. Reversing the wiring on those would be simple from the trunk.
The design of the armrest console storage bin makes it too easy to accidentally hit the button to open it with your right elbow when resting your arm between shifts or just during the course of driving. Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem? I figure the best solution is to remove the spring that allows it to open on its own once the button is pressed. If it were to require lifting it while pressing the button this would be all that’s needed to resolve this issue.
Finally(not a complaint just a question), does anyone have a wiring chart or diagram for the speakers that come with the electronics package(shaker 500)? I'm sure the 2010 is the same as the 2011. I put new Polk 5x7s in all around and they sound great but I have no idea which wire is positive and negative. I took a guess by looking at the back of the speakers noting a dot on the left connector and assumed this was positive. At this point if I have the wiring wrong it’s simple to remove the door panels to correct and the hardest part of installing the rears was removing all the paneling to get them in from the top. Reversing the wiring on those would be simple from the trunk.
FrtLH: + white - white/brown
FrtRH: + white/voilet - white/orange
RrLH: + white/green - brown/yellow
RrRH: + brown/white - brown/blue
a old trick I learned years ago from a professional car stereo installer to determine speaker polarity where speaker markings and wire color code designations are not available:
1. get a typical 1.5 volt flashlight D or C cell battery
2. using a short length of speaker or lamp wire (or alligator jumpers) clip each onto the the individual speaker terminals. it doesn't matter which.
3. take one loose end and hold on the negative side of the D/C cell battery
4. closely observe the speaker cone
5. take the other wire end and touch and release to the (+) side of the D/C cell battery
6. if the cone moves outward, the wire on the (+) side of the battery is the (+) side of the speaker. conversely if the cone draws inward, that same that wire indicates ( -) side of the speaker
7. you may reverse the wires and perform a confirmation test. I usually confirm the (+) to show cone movement outward. then place a magic marker dot on the (+) speaker side to avoid install confusion.
This same test can be used to confirm polarity of the harness connector wiring as well but you will need to use the the original speaker and connectors that came with the car.
1. get a typical 1.5 volt flashlight D or C cell battery
2. using a short length of speaker or lamp wire (or alligator jumpers) clip each onto the the individual speaker terminals. it doesn't matter which.
3. take one loose end and hold on the negative side of the D/C cell battery
4. closely observe the speaker cone
5. take the other wire end and touch and release to the (+) side of the D/C cell battery
6. if the cone moves outward, the wire on the (+) side of the battery is the (+) side of the speaker. conversely if the cone draws inward, that same that wire indicates ( -) side of the speaker
7. you may reverse the wires and perform a confirmation test. I usually confirm the (+) to show cone movement outward. then place a magic marker dot on the (+) speaker side to avoid install confusion.
This same test can be used to confirm polarity of the harness connector wiring as well but you will need to use the the original speaker and connectors that came with the car.
Thanks guys! I was able to modify the console storage bin door so it won't open on its own if you hit the button on accident. Here's what I did and it was very simple:
* Open the storage bin door and remove the 4 retaining screws that mount the hinge to the center console. This requires a 7/32 socket
* Remove the storage bin door with hinge attached on one side and take it to a work bench or other clean place to work on it.
* Using a skinny but long screw driver and a hammer start pounding the hinge pin out to one side. This didn't take much effort at all. Once you get the pin over half way out you can remove the spring on the pin then pound the pin back into place
* Reinstall the door with the 4 screws
Now you have a door that can be manually opened once the release button is pressed and it won't pop open on its own if you hit it with your elbow by accident. I like it without the spring because to close it you just tap it forward with your hand and the weight of the door will allow it to latch in place on its own.
* Open the storage bin door and remove the 4 retaining screws that mount the hinge to the center console. This requires a 7/32 socket
* Remove the storage bin door with hinge attached on one side and take it to a work bench or other clean place to work on it.
* Using a skinny but long screw driver and a hammer start pounding the hinge pin out to one side. This didn't take much effort at all. Once you get the pin over half way out you can remove the spring on the pin then pound the pin back into place
* Reinstall the door with the 4 screws
Now you have a door that can be manually opened once the release button is pressed and it won't pop open on its own if you hit it with your elbow by accident. I like it without the spring because to close it you just tap it forward with your hand and the weight of the door will allow it to latch in place on its own.
But what is particularly annoying besides the placement of the 'cup holder' is no one makes a tapered water container that fits. They are all these stupid gargantuan jug things. You can get a coffee style cup that's tapered but they don't have a water tight lid.
A clean looking factory flip down/pull out holder on the door would have been great.
I don't go anywhere without water and/or a bit of food. Partly cause I'm in and usually go for drives in rural areas. So I've got a small lunch cooler that goes on the passenger seat. Plus it carries my misc crap.
But what is particularly annoying besides the placement of the 'cup holder' is no one makes a tapered water container that fits. They are all these stupid gargantuan jug things. You can get a coffee style cup that's tapered but they don't have a water tight lid.
A clean looking factory flip down/pull out holder on the door would have been great.
But what is particularly annoying besides the placement of the 'cup holder' is no one makes a tapered water container that fits. They are all these stupid gargantuan jug things. You can get a coffee style cup that's tapered but they don't have a water tight lid.
A clean looking factory flip down/pull out holder on the door would have been great.
a old trick I learned years ago from a professional car stereo installer to determine speaker polarity where speaker markings and wire color code designations are not available:
1. get a typical 1.5 volt flashlight D or C cell battery
2. using a short length of speaker or lamp wire (or alligator jumpers) clip each onto the the individual speaker terminals. it doesn't matter which.
3. take one loose end and hold on the negative side of the D/C cell battery
4. closely observe the speaker cone
5. take the other wire end and touch and release to the (+) side of the D/C cell battery
6. if the cone moves outward, the wire on the (+) side of the battery is the (+) side of the speaker. conversely if the cone draws inward, that same that wire indicates ( -) side of the speaker
7. you may reverse the wires and perform a confirmation test. I usually confirm the (+) to show cone movement outward. then place a magic marker dot on the (+) speaker side to avoid install confusion.
This same test can be used to confirm polarity of the harness connector wiring as well but you will need to use the the original speaker and connectors that came with the car.
1. get a typical 1.5 volt flashlight D or C cell battery
2. using a short length of speaker or lamp wire (or alligator jumpers) clip each onto the the individual speaker terminals. it doesn't matter which.
3. take one loose end and hold on the negative side of the D/C cell battery
4. closely observe the speaker cone
5. take the other wire end and touch and release to the (+) side of the D/C cell battery
6. if the cone moves outward, the wire on the (+) side of the battery is the (+) side of the speaker. conversely if the cone draws inward, that same that wire indicates ( -) side of the speaker
7. you may reverse the wires and perform a confirmation test. I usually confirm the (+) to show cone movement outward. then place a magic marker dot on the (+) speaker side to avoid install confusion.
This same test can be used to confirm polarity of the harness connector wiring as well but you will need to use the the original speaker and connectors that came with the car.
Thanks guys! I was able to modify the console storage bin door so it won't open on its own if you hit the button on accident. Here's what I did and it was very simple:
* Open the storage bin door and remove the 4 retaining screws that mount the hinge to the center console. This requires a 7/32 socket
* Remove the storage bin door with hinge attached on one side and take it to a work bench or other clean place to work on it.
* Using a skinny but long screw driver and a hammer start pounding the hinge pin out to one side. This didn't take much effort at all. Once you get the pin over half way out you can remove the spring on the pin then pound the pin back into place
* Reinstall the door with the 4 screws
Now you have a door that can be manually opened once the release button is pressed and it won't pop open on its own if you hit it with your elbow by accident. I like it without the spring because to close it you just tap it forward with your hand and the weight of the door will allow it to latch in place on its own.
* Open the storage bin door and remove the 4 retaining screws that mount the hinge to the center console. This requires a 7/32 socket
* Remove the storage bin door with hinge attached on one side and take it to a work bench or other clean place to work on it.
* Using a skinny but long screw driver and a hammer start pounding the hinge pin out to one side. This didn't take much effort at all. Once you get the pin over half way out you can remove the spring on the pin then pound the pin back into place
* Reinstall the door with the 4 screws
Now you have a door that can be manually opened once the release button is pressed and it won't pop open on its own if you hit it with your elbow by accident. I like it without the spring because to close it you just tap it forward with your hand and the weight of the door will allow it to latch in place on its own.
i wish ford would for once offer a mustang that the cup holder wasnt inline with the flippin shifter. at least with the fox bodies ford didnt even bother you just wedged your drink between the e brake and passengers seat lol
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No food/drink in the ride.
